Chain Saw Recommendation

[Coach James]

I am looking to replace my big box Poulan 16" saw because I hate it. I am looking at a Stihl Wood Boss or Farm Boss. We have 28 acres that I want to clear trails on which will involve removing a good many trees. I also have to maintain our 0.3 mile, dirt driveway.

I would prefer to spend under $400. Any opinions between the two? Other Stihl recommendation?

I would like to keep a couple spare chains and different length bar on hand. What brand do you guys prefer? I see Oregon has a couple different lines of chain. Either one of these ok to use?

Premix fuel or mix my own? Does it make any long term difference for the saw?

Thanks

Coach

 

[texasprd]

I can't comment on the two saw models you are considering, but Stihl is usually a good bet on saws. There are other good brands too, though.

Unless you have a source for ethanol-free gas, I highly recommend buying the premixed fuel. It's premixed on the fuel/oil ratio (no agonizing over those few drops left in the oil container that will never come out), and usually includes fuel stabilizer (one less thing for you to worry about). Just make sure any cans you get haven't already been opened. If you can find date codes on the cans, get the newest possible.

I'm about as DIY as anyone, but this is one place where I yield to convenience

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have a Stihl Farm Boss MS290 with a 20" bar. The bar size is perfect for what I cut and also if I'm cutting stuff on the ground as I don't have to bend over as much. . . kinda helps with not putting that "tweak" in my back that I don't care for.

 

[finn]

Husqvarna and Stihl make excellent saws. Go to a couple of servicing dealers within reasonable travel time. They will have a feel for what is popular locally.

Someone in Oregon that cuts 42 inch trees will have different needs than someone cutting one 12” tree per year for firewood in South Carolina.

 

[Aaron_W]

Stihl and Husqvarna make quality saws. I've used both for many years, but have no experience with their "home owner" grade saws. I've run a lot of their mid size PRO saws at work, and have owned an MS391 for about 12 years.

The MS391 is the largest saw in Stihl's mid range. It is bigger and more expensive than you are asking for, but I have used it for wood cutting 2-5 cords a year for about 6 years and continue to use it a few times a year to cut back brush. I have had zero issues with it.

Price wise you are probably looking at the MS271 or smaller. Personally with the work you describe, I wouldn't go smaller than the MS271 although that will put you at or slightly above your price limit.

I run Stihl bars and chain. You can run a skip tooth chain to improve performance. These have half the teeth as a standard full comp chain so doesn't work the saw as hard and there are half as many teeth to sharpen. You would think half the teeth would cut slower, but you really don't notice.


I have no experience with electric saws, but with the way cordless tech has advanced that may be worth looking into. Certainly a lot less hassle not having to deal with fuel.


Ethanol free fuel is worth the money, it is 50-100% more expensive but ethanol is hard on saws. Alternatively they sell fuel test kits. You could get a few and check around the
local gas stations to find one on the low end. Locally we have found as low as 2% and as high as 12% (it is not supposed to be higher than 10%...). Most bulk fuel sellers will sell ethanol free fuel.

I wouldn't pay for the premix stuff with the amount of work you describe. When you price it out pre-mix fuel is in excess of $30 / gallon. I've bought a quart of pre-mix when I just had a tanks worth of work to do, and I knew any excess would sit for months, but otherwise I mix it as I use it.


If you choose to buy pump gas, I've had several saw mechanics recommend keeping the saw full, or purge the fuel from the lines. The worst thing for the saw is leaving it partially filled with fuel in the lines.

 

[bob15]

What do the dealers around you sell? What dealer treats you good? Stihl is good, so isn't Echo. I'm not a fan of Husky, the gut-less wonder.

What size trees do you honestly plan on cutting down? No need to get a 60cc/16" or a 70cc/20" saw if you are cutting mainly 8" wide trees. Why lug the extra weight around? No need for it. An Echo 35cc top handle saw weighs 8 pounds and is fine with a 14" bar. My Mac SP70 (70cc/20") weighs 15 pounds and is fine for cutting up 16-28" logs, but is too heavy to cut 8" round little pieces of wood all day.

Ethanol free gas is a good investment. Any VP race gas dealers in the area? You can buy 5 gallons of their SEF gas for around $60-70. Much cheaper than buying the small quart cans. I prefer to mix my own oil/gas. I use Lubrication Engineers 2 stroke oil.

VP SEF gas: https://vpracingfuels.com/small-engine-fuels/

 

[bob15]

I run Stihl bars and chain. You can run a skip tooth chain to improve performance. These have half the teeth as a standard full comp chain so doesn't work the saw as hard and there are half as many teeth to sharpen. You would think half the teeth would cut slower, but you really don't notice.

You don't run skip chains on short bars, and I doubt the OP is looking for a 30" bar saw. They will kickback easier and they will cut slower than a full comp chain on bars shorter than 28".

 

[Coach James]

What do the dealers around you sell? What dealer treats you good? Stihl is good, so isn't Echo. I'm not a fan of Husky, the gut-less wonder.

What size trees do you honestly plan on cutting down? No need to get a 60cc/16" or a 70cc/20" saw if you are cutting mainly 8" wide trees. Why lug the extra weight around? No need for it. An Echo 35cc top handle saw weighs 8 pounds and is fine with a 14" bar. My Mac SP70 (70cc/20") weighs 15 pounds and is fine for cutting up 16-28" logs, but is too heavy to cut 8" round little pieces of wood all day.

Ethanol free gas is a good investment. Any VP race gas dealers in the area? You can buy 5 gallons of their SEF gas for around $60-70. Much cheaper than buying the small quart cans. I prefer to mix my own oil/gas. I use Lubrication Engineers 2 stroke oil.

VP SEF gas: https://vpracingfuels.com/small-engine-fuels/

The Ace Hardware 10 minutes from my house is an authorized Stihl dealer and the store staff has always been great. They do repairs there on sight. I have had friends drop a saw off in the morning and have it back the same day or next morning. Plus they are open 8am-8pm on Saturday and 9am-6pm on Sunday. The other Stihl dealers near here are closed weekends.

I know I don't need a 60cc, etc. saw. That is why I was wondering about the Wood Boss (45cc) and Farm Boss (50cc). Most of the trees will be 6 to 12 inches in diameter.

I'm not aware of any race gas dealers nearby, but there may be some I am not aware of.

Coach

 

[woody 73]

You have heard it from me over 1000 times...You go with the dealer that gives you the best service top to bottom, find that dealer and buy what they recommend.. Then if you ever have any problems they will take care it.

No matter what the brand name of saw you will want someone that will give you good service, so start asking around for that good dealer in your area.

 

[CJM8515]

buy a pro saw, yes it will cost more but its built way better. stihl, echo or husky. take your pic. Stihl btw if you dont pull the cord just right it wil tip it out your hands.

 

[shelteredV]

stay away from the fuel injected saws and like said above, run the pro series saw, not the homeowner series, big difference in them. 5 gallons of VP will last you a long time and it doesn't go stale. It's synthetic, not petroleum based, so the shelf life is a long *** time.

 

[woody 73]

If you are saying the Ace dealer is top notch in your area, then stop by and ask them what saw they recommend and buy that saw.

 

[Ray916MN]

If it helps make your decision you have till 7PM PST to get 15% off if you buy the saw on Ebay.

Use code PMAY4TH. Max. $100 discount.
Valid 5/4 8am-7pm PT.

Given that saws aren't usually discounted much and the differences between pro saws, not so significant, it might make sense to pull the trigger to get a deal instead of focusing on getting a specific make/model.

 

[finn]

I’l give you a different opinion on the pro vs semi pro saws for landowner type use. I have a pro saw, a Stihl MS460. It’s a beast, but total overkill for my use, clearing trees and two to six cords of firewood.

My landowner saws, a Husky 55 Rancher and Stihl 029, (and a couple others), are probably ten to fifteen years old, but are perfectly adequate for my use.

If I buy a new saw, a pro model would be considered only because I wanted bragging rights, not because it was the proper tool for my twenty to thirty hours of use per year.

Last I checked, the cost difference wasn’t trivial, as some would lead you to believe.

 

[bob15]

The Ace Hardware 10 minutes from my house is an authorized Stihl dealer and the store staff has always been great. They do repairs there on sight. I have had friends drop a saw off in the morning and have it back the same day or next morning. Plus they are open 8am-8pm on Saturday and 9am-6pm on Sunday. The other Stihl dealers near here are closed weekends.

I know I don't need a 60cc, etc. saw. That is why I was wondering about the Wood Boss (45cc) and Farm Boss (50cc). Most of the trees will be 6 to 12 inches in diameter.

I'm not aware of any race gas dealers nearby, but there may be some I am not aware of.

Coach

Try typing your zip code in here: https://vpracingfuels.com/find-a-dealer/

Sunoco also has a small engine gas: https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel/optima

Dealer locator: https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel-finder

How much vertical vs horizontal cutting you think you'll be doing? A lot of walking and cutting stuff at ground level? I might be inclined on going with the lighter saw. I would probably stick with the 16" bar for either saw. I prefer a little more powerhead to bar length.

 

[CJM8515]

I’l give you a different opinion on the pro vs semi pro saws for landowner type use. I have a pro saw, a Stihl MS460. It’s a beast, but total overkill for my use, clearing trees and two to six cords of firewood.

My landowner saws, a Husky 55 Rancher and Stihl 029, (and a couple others), are probably ten to fifteen years old, but are perfectly adequate for my use.

If I buy a new saw, a pro model would be considered only because I wanted bragging rights, not because it was the proper tool for my twenty to thirty hours of use per year.

Last I checked, the cost difference wasn’t trivial, as some would lead you to believe.

The pro saws are built differently in most cases, no plastic case-metal, different internals, etc, etc.

 

[WWheeler]

You have heard it from me over 1000 times...You go with the dealer that gives you the best service top to bottom, find that dealer and buy what they recommend.. Then if you ever have any problems they will take care it.

No matter what the brand name of saw you will want someone that will give you good service, so start asking around for that good dealer in your area.

^This

 

[tarmy]

Check out Sthil MS 241 CN...smaller type pro saw...a bit pricey...but it will be the last saw you buy. Only get pro models from Sthil...the home owner models are not carbed the same...and quite a bit less hp...

I take mine to various elevations as well...the pro models adjust everything automatically to account for it.

 

[slackdaddy1]

I too have 20+ acres,, you REALLY need 2 saws, 1 for walking, limbing, trimming, etc and one for "Cutting" trees down and cutting the main trunk into fire wood.

I run a Sthil farm Boss 20" for the heavy stuff, and a small echo for the light stuff.
The echo is 20+ years old and I am replacing it with a light weight Sthil in 12" bar (400-500)

 

[Tennessee Cattleman]

Check out Sthil MS 241 CN...smaller type pro saw...a bit pricey...but it will be the last saw you buy. Only get pro models from Sthil...the home owner models are not carbed the same...and quite a bit less hp...

I take mine to various elevations as well...the pro models adjust everything automatically to account for it.

Plus one on getting a Stihl pro model. I also have a MS 241, like it very well.

 

[driftpin]

I don't have a lot of work to do w/a chain saw (no acreage), but maintain 3 houses, so I need something reliable. Something powerful-enough to do the job, and light-enough to be easy to use. I don't need a 'lumberjack tool.'

I got this Stihl before the hurricane season in Florida last year, I got it from the local Ace Hardware, w/a spare longer bar and its chain. This is meant for in-tree cutting, so it's light, but it's built better than their homeowner line, & in the Stihl line-up is rated for continuous use (below).

You probably want something bigger in the engine and bar dimensions, but if someone is looking for a better saw that won't work you to death, I found this to be a good compromise.

A note on my use, after Hurricane Irma hit us in the Miami area Sept. 10, the damage in my neighborhood was worse than the damage from Andrew in 1992. I used the Stihl to clear fallen trees that completely-blocked the road in-front of our home, and at the other homes too, where they had fallen trees. We lost a mature mango tree at one house. The Stihl did all I asked of it, sure a bigger engine and bar would probably have been better, but I was able to do everything I needed with the "in-tree/tree service use" Stihl. It was quicker to cut than either of my other chain saws, and it used less gas, vibrated less, and was less-troublesome. It took the municipal and county crews about two weeks to clear the roadways fully, even then they just cut the really-big trees back off the roads, leaving them for final removal, some a month or more later. Ficus and banyan trees can have root balls spreading fifteen feet, when you see one of those ripped out of the ground, you have to realize that same tree probably survived 200-plus hurricanes in its lifetime.

I have a 16" bar ECHO and a 16" bar Craftsman, but the Stihl is far-better than those.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/in-tree-saws/ms193t/

Here's a good chart comparing the Stihl 'amount of use vs. specs and features' which you can use to decide on getting the 'best bang for the buck.' You will see the MS 193T is located towards the 'continuous (they say, 'extensive') use' side.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/

 

[CR888]

I have a little experience with saws....having to big of a saw is just as bad if not worse than having to small of a saw. Someone mentioned you really need 2 saws, that is probably correct. For small trees up to 14" you want the lightest setup possible. I would look at perhaps a top handle sub 35cc even a 25cc saw with 10" b/c then down the road a rear handle 40-60cc saw. Of the 25ish pro saws I have between displacement sizes, I always grab the lightest saw to do the job at hand. Some of the arborist saws (top handle climbing saws) come in a rear handle configuration like the Stihl MS150 MS201 Echo 271 and perhaps their 355. A light nimble saw that is fuel efficient will make your life easy doing trail work. Before you purchase put up what you intend to buy & we'll give you some feedback on that model. If you insist on a homeowner class Stihl, the MS211 is the pick.

 

[cashishift]

Stihl 362 with a 20"+ bar and a 180 for limbing

 

[Farmall450]

I have a Stihl Farm Boss MS290 with a 20" bar. The bar size is perfect for what I cut and also if I'm cutting stuff on the ground as I don't have to bend over as much. . . kinda helps with not putting that "tweak" in my back that I don't care for.

^ This. Same saw, 10+ years old

 

[greg86z28]

I run a Stihl MS261. It's one of the pro saws. I like it, went with the pro line because I thought the build quality was better. Probably overkill, but for a tool I'll have forever it was worth the extra $.

 

[tarmy]

I too have 20+ acres,, you REALLY need 2 saws, 1 for walking, limbing, trimming, etc and one for "Cutting" trees down and cutting the main trunk into fire wood.

I run a Sthil farm Boss 20" for the heavy stuff, and a small echo for the light stuff.
The echo is 20+ years old and I am replacing it with a light weight Sthil in 12" bar (400-500)

This is what is the best way to really handle it. I also have a full size Stihl with a 33” bar with a very aggresive chain to eat the tree up...the saw is just under 7 hp when tuned up...that thing will cut wood like butter...gotta hang on to it with TWO hands...

 

[kctyphoon]

Milwaukee just announced an 18v cordless chainsaw with the the power of a 40cc gas powered saw.. its basically being advertised as an option to cut up utility poles.. yes, 18v..

 

[Aaron_W]

You don't run skip chains on short bars, and I doubt the OP is looking for a 30" bar saw. They will kickback easier and they will cut slower than a full comp chain on bars shorter than 28".

Yeah I could see that being an issue on a 16" bar. I have almost no experience running something that size other than a power pruner.

A 362 with a 24" bar is a small saw to me. We just buy a spool of skip tooth and use it on everything from 24-36" bars. Mostly running 441s and 461s, a couple 362s and 661s in the mix.

I’l give you a different opinion on the pro vs semi pro saws for landowner type use. I have a pro saw, a Stihl MS460. It’s a beast, but total overkill for my use, clearing trees and two to six cords of firewood.

My landowner saws, a Husky 55 Rancher and Stihl 029, (and a couple others), are probably ten to fifteen years old, but are perfectly adequate for my use.

If I buy a new saw, a pro model would be considered only because I wanted bragging rights, not because it was the proper tool for my twenty to thirty hours of use per year.

Last I checked, the cost difference wasn’t trivial, as some would lead you to believe.

I agree with you, I run Pro series saws at work, but when it came to one for personal wood cutting I went with the mid range farm / ranch line. I found little difference in quality, but a sizable difference in price, at least a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the comparable Pro saw. The Farm / Ranch saws tend to be slightly heavier and have slightly less power than the Pro saws. I think they are just not as highly tuned to make them simpler and cheaper, truck engine vs sports car. 12 years of honest work on mine, I bought a Stihl 041 second hand 18 years ago, that saw is 40+ and it is also still going strong.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

This is what is the best way to really handle it. I also have a full size Stihl with a 33” bar with a very aggresive chain to eat the tree up...the saw is just under 7 hp when tuned up...that thing will cut wood like butter...gotta hang on to it with TWO hands...

I have an 80cc husky to cut wood real fast in the hope I don't have to do it all day. It's a total beast, and a lot of fun.

I also have a $35(used) 35cc Husky that is a lot more nimble.

something in between and trading to a lighter small saw has an appeal.

Probably I would not have bought the big pro saw, but I got a heck of a deal on it, and have absolutely no regret. My spool of chain probably isn't a lifetime, but I don't have to worry for awhile.

The local Stihl dealer offers a longer warranty if you buy and use their juice in it.

 

[PMD1966]

I have a Stihl Farm Boss with a 20 inch bar. 16 years old, works great.

 

[bpjr]

Like already posted, you need two saws to make it easy. I would buy the 20" Farm Boss and get the Poulan dialed in. You probably "hate" it because of ethanol gas and the carb needs cleaning or mixture adjustments. These are actually tough and durable for non commercial duty. Last time I checked, home grade Poulans (same as Craftsman) still had high and low mixture adjustments and require special tools to fit those screws. I bought a set of six different drivers on ebay for $10 and dialed all of my ill running two strokes back to life...including a Stihl blower that didn't run worth **** until adjusting it. Be aware that some newer Echo and Stihl engines do NOT have mixture adjustments (I have those too). They can be a pain in the azz because the carbs have to be removed to clear a grain of sand or crud that otherwise can be purged by backing out the mixture screw while running...so keeping exact oil ratio and clean gas is more critical. My Stihl blower came with a gallon of Stihl gas. It says good for 2 years storage.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I know I don't need a 60cc, etc. saw. That is why I was wondering about the Wood Boss (45cc) and Farm Boss (50cc). Most of the trees will be 6 to 12 inches in diameter.

Who are you trying to impress or is this an ego thing !

Drop down a notch or 2 and look at a MS170 or MS171 with a 16" bar. Same Stihl reliability and same service.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I mix my own and will be using 90 REC once I run out what I have now.(Honestly, can't remember, might have already made the switch) Being that I'm a Stihl owner, I only use Stihl mix in my saw and if I was using regular gas, spend the extra coins (literally) and buy a gallon of better gas, whether it be ethanol free or atleast 89 octane as recommended by Stihl in the manual. I know it did make a difference in my own saw with the way it runs/starts.


At the fire dept, we have made the switch to Stihl pre-mixed for the saws. Sometimes, other than the weekly checks, the saws can sit unused for a month or so. Using the Stihl pre-mixed has really helped us out. There's also no chance that somebody grabs a can of regular gas and dumps it in the saw either.

The cans are a 32 oz quart sized square metal can. Unless you're a serious cutter, a can will last you awhile and probably an entire day of cutting depending on what you cut. I have grabbed two of the old empty ones and taken them home for my personal use. No reason to lug around the entire fuel jug when the small can fits easily in a 5 gallon bucket when clearing a small area or it fits nicely in the rear seat rack of the four wheeler. I'll try to grab a picture later today.

 

[seber]

Look here for non alcohol gas in your area. https://www.pure-gas.org/
I used Stihl, Husky, and Johnsered for years until I got hold of a Shindaiwa. Huge difference. It cuts way faster than any of the others and quality is comparable. Easy start and light. However, if you don't have a dealer around it becomes a different story. Parts and service can be spotty.

 

[SS5150]

I have a 271 Farm Boss I bought a year and a half ago. I went with an 18" bar. Been a real good saw. The comparable pro saw (261 I believe) was a lot more money.
The MS170 was on special around here but I'm not sure if that ended at the end of April or not.

 

[Coach James]

Who are you trying to impress or is this an ego thing !

Drop down a notch or 2 and look at a MS170 or MS171 with a 16" bar. Same Stihl reliability and same service.

Not trying to impress or an ego thing, hence the words "I was wondering.....".

Coach

 

[bob15]

Who are you trying to impress or is this an ego thing !

Drop down a notch or 2 and look at a MS170 or MS171 with a 16" bar. Same Stihl reliability and same service.

Not really sure how a 45cc or a 50 cc saw would be triggering an ego thing or impressive thing? Coach wasn't asking about 100cc+ saws.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I'd add another vote for a Pro-line Stihl. Not because I dislike Husky (or Dolmar, or any other pro brand), but I have little experience and knowledge of the rest... Stihl has never given me a reason to.

I have an MS260 Pro that I bought new 15 years ago. Still runs great... and my dad (who is anathema to internal combustion equipment, it seems) is borrowing it, and hasn't hurt it yet.

He and my uncle both balked at warnings and price tags and bought homeowner grade Stihls. They both had mediocre experiences. My dad has seen the light, and while he can't afford new Pro-line saws, he's back to buying 20-year-old quality ones.

The midgrade saws might be OK, I have very little experience with them, but have seen less than favorable reviews. IMO for a purchase I expect to last a couple decades, I'd rather spring for the overkill one.

 

[Alaniho]

Dolmar is worth a look if you have a good dealer nearby. I choose the Ps420 over Stihl and Husqvarna options and am very happy with how its runs and starts. Dolmar only offer prograde saws but are well priced and still made in Hamburg Germany.

 

[ryburns]

Farm Boss. No question.