I am not bashing echos as they are decent saws, but it isn't no 026/ms260.Going over to the Stihl dealer in the morning for his opinion.
Echo model I saw is CS-4910-18, $385
How much power and reliability do you figure on getting from a ported clone?I'm planning on building a Holzfforma clone 660 before fall- porting and polishing the cylinder, opening the muffler up, and putting a 28" Oregon bar on it
I won't do a very aggressive port job, more like a woods ported saw with a modded muffler. My buddy has a couple of their Husky clones that are at 5+ years now, and he just assembled them without any port/polish workHow much power and reliability do you figure on getting from a ported clone?
I had a similar. Neighbor borrowed an engine, he checked the oil and didn't rethread the dip stick. Dipstick feel off, oils splashed out, the engine lost lubrication and failed. I was surprised how well the muriatic worked.I am not bashing echos as they are decent saws, but it isn't no 026/ms260.
Even if your not a mechanic, replacing a piston/cylinder on a stihl pro saw like the 260 is very easy and there are lots of youtube videos to help.
Most of the time with a cylinder is "scored" it just has aluminum transfer to the cylinder wall from the piston. Because of the extremely hard nikasil coating a carefull application of muratic acid with a q tip can eat the aluminum off without damaging the nikasil and you only need a new piston.
Very few tools needed as well other than the scrench torx/plug socket/bar nut wrench that they include with the saw will do 90 percent of the job



The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.I am not bashing echos as they are decent saws, but it isn't no 026/ms260.
Even if your not a mechanic, replacing a piston/cylinder on a stihl pro saw like the 260 is very easy and there are lots of youtube videos to help.
Most of the time with a cylinder is "scored" it just has aluminum transfer to the cylinder wall from the piston. Because of the extremely hard nikasil coating a carefull application of muratic acid with a q tip can eat the aluminum off without damaging the nikasil and you only need a new piston.
Very few tools needed as well other than the scrench torx/plug socket/bar nut wrench that they include with the saw will do 90 percent of the job
And that is all covered in any of the good youtube videos including how to assemble a pressure test gauge(or vacuum) and even making a simple carb adapter plate with simple hand tools and how to block off the exhaust.The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.
Air leaks through the intake boots or crank seals have to be ruled out before putting on a new jug.
Have you reassembled this engine? That crankshaft looks like it is beyond worn out to me. The rod journal should be one diameter all the way across, no steps.I had a similar. Neighbor borrowed an engine, he checked the oil and didn't rethread the dip stick. Dipstick feel off, oils splashed out, the engine lost lubrication and failed. I was surprised how well the muriatic worked.
Bits and pieces:
Metal transfer onto crankshaft:
Add muriatic and watch it bubble:
Polished up:
![]()
You're correct that he needs to find root cause of the failure, but unless the saw was worked hard it's more than likely dull chain, plugged up air filter, poor carb adjustment, incorrect oil ratio, deteriorated fuel line, etc.The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.
Air leaks through the intake boots or crank seals have to be ruled out before putting on a new jug.
No, I did not use those parts. I noticed the same wear after it was cleaned up. I was, however, impressed by how well the muriatic performed.Have you reassembled this engine? That crankshaft looks like it is beyond worn out to me. The rod journal should be one diameter all the way across, no steps.
This is what I use, doesn't take long and sharpens them really well.I've used this to sharpen mine and gotten great results. Does take time, but to me its therapeutic
You're correct that he needs to find root cause of the failure, but unless the saw was worked hard it's more than likely dull chain, plugged up air filter, poor carb adjustment, incorrect oil ratio, deteriorated fuel line, etc.
This is true, I am not a mechanic to any degree. I wish I had learned small engines in high school and later too. Got busy with life. Maybe I will find time to learn and tinker after retirement.The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.
Air leaks through the intake boots or crank seals have to be ruled out before putting on a new jug.
I'm not a big chain saw user, but I quickly found it is so easy to sharpen a chain with an Oregon Chainsaw File and Guide. Much quicker and cheaper than taking the chain to a shop to be sharpened.As long as you stay on it and don't let the chain get too dull, I find a file to be about as fast as the Dremel and less hassle
Pitch, drivers and bar gauge.You need to compare the following:
1. Pitch
2. Number of drive links
3. Kerf
It varies between manufacturers and class of saw. If kerf and pitch match then chains can generally be lengthened or shortened.