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Chainsaw Chains

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Jmellc

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Going over to the Stihl dealer in the morning for his opinion.

Echo model I saw is CS-4910-18, $385
 
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Firebrick43

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Going over to the Stihl dealer in the morning for his opinion.

Echo model I saw is CS-4910-18, $385
I am not bashing echos as they are decent saws, but it isn't no 026/ms260.

Even if your not a mechanic, replacing a piston/cylinder on a stihl pro saw like the 260 is very easy and there are lots of youtube videos to help.

Most of the time with a cylinder is "scored" it just has aluminum transfer to the cylinder wall from the piston. Because of the extremely hard nikasil coating a carefull application of muratic acid with a q tip can eat the aluminum off without damaging the nikasil and you only need a new piston.

Very few tools needed as well other than the scrench torx/plug socket/bar nut wrench that they include with the saw will do 90 percent of the job
 

PoorUB

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Even with OEM parts it shouldn't cost much more than $300 to repair the saw. Aftermarket piston and cylinder a hundred less. I would repair it unless it is trashed out.
 

Benny Franklin

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Apr 9, 2023
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I'd repair it. Doesn't take that many tools to tear one down and you can get an aftermarket cylinder/piston and port/polish it yourself.

My main saw at the moment is an inherited 029 Super with a 20" bar. I opened the muffler up and retuned the carb but otherwise it's stock.

I'm planning on building a Holzfforma clone 660 before fall- porting and polishing the cylinder, opening the muffler up, and putting a 28" Oregon bar on it
 

WoodsTruck

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I'm planning on building a Holzfforma clone 660 before fall- porting and polishing the cylinder, opening the muffler up, and putting a 28" Oregon bar on it
How much power and reliability do you figure on getting from a ported clone?
 

Benny Franklin

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How much power and reliability do you figure on getting from a ported clone?
I won't do a very aggressive port job, more like a woods ported saw with a modded muffler. My buddy has a couple of their Husky clones that are at 5+ years now, and he just assembled them without any port/polish work
 

MongoTA

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Mar 10, 2018
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I am not bashing echos as they are decent saws, but it isn't no 026/ms260.

Even if your not a mechanic, replacing a piston/cylinder on a stihl pro saw like the 260 is very easy and there are lots of youtube videos to help.

Most of the time with a cylinder is "scored" it just has aluminum transfer to the cylinder wall from the piston. Because of the extremely hard nikasil coating a carefull application of muratic acid with a q tip can eat the aluminum off without damaging the nikasil and you only need a new piston.

Very few tools needed as well other than the scrench torx/plug socket/bar nut wrench that they include with the saw will do 90 percent of the job
I had a similar. Neighbor borrowed an engine, he checked the oil and didn't rethread the dip stick. Dipstick feel off, oils splashed out, the engine lost lubrication and failed. I was surprised how well the muriatic worked.

Bits and pieces:
20221128_132348.jpg

Metal transfer onto crankshaft:

20221128_125842-1.jpg
Add muriatic and watch it bubble:
20221128_153521.jpg
Polished up:
20221128_160819.jpg
 

finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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16,213
Location
The UP, God's country
I am not bashing echos as they are decent saws, but it isn't no 026/ms260.

Even if your not a mechanic, replacing a piston/cylinder on a stihl pro saw like the 260 is very easy and there are lots of youtube videos to help.

Most of the time with a cylinder is "scored" it just has aluminum transfer to the cylinder wall from the piston. Because of the extremely hard nikasil coating a carefull application of muratic acid with a q tip can eat the aluminum off without damaging the nikasil and you only need a new piston.

Very few tools needed as well other than the scrench torx/plug socket/bar nut wrench that they include with the saw will do 90 percent of the job
The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.

Air leaks through the intake boots or crank seals have to be ruled out before putting on a new jug.
 

Firebrick43

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The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.

Air leaks through the intake boots or crank seals have to be ruled out before putting on a new jug.
And that is all covered in any of the good youtube videos including how to assemble a pressure test gauge(or vacuum) and even making a simple carb adapter plate with simple hand tools and how to block off the exhaust.

Must every thing be spelled out in minutiae for you? Why try to be a debbie downer of a forum that is centered around the ICE instead of encouraging those to jump in, especially with the simplest of engines, the traditional 2 stoke?

There is a lot of details to type that is why I pointed him to the youtube video's.
 
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PoorUB

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Fargo, ND
I had a similar. Neighbor borrowed an engine, he checked the oil and didn't rethread the dip stick. Dipstick feel off, oils splashed out, the engine lost lubrication and failed. I was surprised how well the muriatic worked.

Bits and pieces:
20221128_132348.jpg

Metal transfer onto crankshaft:

20221128_125842-1.jpg
Add muriatic and watch it bubble:
20221128_153521.jpg
Polished up:
20221128_160819.jpg
Have you reassembled this engine? That crankshaft looks like it is beyond worn out to me. The rod journal should be one diameter all the way across, no steps.
 

Davefr

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OR
The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.

Air leaks through the intake boots or crank seals have to be ruled out before putting on a new jug.
You're correct that he needs to find root cause of the failure, but unless the saw was worked hard it's more than likely dull chain, plugged up air filter, poor carb adjustment, incorrect oil ratio, deteriorated fuel line, etc.
 

MongoTA

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Mar 10, 2018
Messages
996
Location
CT
Have you reassembled this engine? That crankshaft looks like it is beyond worn out to me. The rod journal should be one diameter all the way across, no steps.
No, I did not use those parts. I noticed the same wear after it was cleaned up. I was, however, impressed by how well the muriatic performed.
 
OP
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Jmellc

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Apr 28, 2019
Messages
276
Location
Durham, NC
I finally got an Echo CS400. The guy gave me $50 for the Stihl & 2 extra chains. Came out for $320. I’ve spent repair money on the Stihl over the years & it had gotten quirky. I was ready for a change.
 

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OP
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Jmellc

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Messages
276
Location
Durham, NC
You're correct that he needs to find root cause of the failure, but unless the saw was worked hard it's more than likely dull chain, plugged up air filter, poor carb adjustment, incorrect oil ratio, deteriorated fuel line, etc.

The changing parts portion is, as you said, relatively easy, but it’s rather pointless if he doesn’t have the skills to figure out why the saw failed in the first place.

Air leaks through the intake boots or crank seals have to be ruled out before putting on a new jug.
This is true, I am not a mechanic to any degree. I wish I had learned small engines in high school and later too. Got busy with life. Maybe I will find time to learn and tinker after retirement.
 

lolaetype

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Dec 11, 2019
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Location
North Western Arkansas
As long as you stay on it and don't let the chain get too dull, I find a file to be about as fast as the Dremel and less hassle
I'm not a big chain saw user, but I quickly found it is so easy to sharpen a chain with an Oregon Chainsaw File and Guide. Much quicker and cheaper than taking the chain to a shop to be sharpened.
 

Sumboodie

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Mar 20, 2021
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Location
AK
You need to compare the following:
1. Pitch
2. Number of drive links
3. Kerf

It varies between manufacturers and class of saw. If kerf and pitch match then chains can generally be lengthened or shortened.
Pitch, drivers and bar gauge.
 
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