Challenger CL10V3-2 2-post lift installation experience

[truckin-on]

[ I've updated picture links to a local album ]

I thought some might be interested in my experience installing my lift. Late last year, I ordered and took delivery of a Challenger CL10V3-2 (with 2' extensions) from garageautoequipment.com. I had narrowed it down to Challenger or a Bendpak. The Challenger ended up only a bit more expensive, and seemed to me to be worth the premium for a US-built lift. Also, I really liked the Challenger 3-stage front and rear “versymmetric” arm design better than the Bendpak.

In any event, my question from a previous post was how close to the building side wall I could mount the lift. I was originally thinking I would install it right up against the framing for the right side wall so I would have the space to store vehicles in the next bay over. Feedback from folks on the forum convinced me to re-look at that idea for multiple good reasons, so I ended up re-positioning the lift to the left side of the 20’ bay instead. My steel building is 3 20’ bays, the right two with 16’ doors. Overall 60’ wide and 40’ deep, 14’+ inside at the peak.

I had ordered the lift with 2’ extra tall column extensions, as I had a bit over 14’ clearance to the roof rafters, and it would give me more headroom for tall vehicles. That would have worked fine in my original placement, however, that extra height presented a real problem in moving the lift to the left side of the bay. To the left of the bay (between the right bay and the center bay), I have a heavy steel I-beam roof support, unfortunately only 13’ 5” from the floor at the peak. The total height of the lift with the 2’ extra height was 13’ 8”. Argh.

My solution was to lower the column extensions by 3” on each side by drilling new mounting holes. The column extensions are bolted-on during installation, and the 2’ extended height option just changes the length of the extensions by 2’ per side. The problem was that shortening each column by 3” would make the synchronization cables 6” too long. However, the lift is designed to allow for a narrow or wide installation – a difference of 4”, so there was already a cable spacer included to make up 4 1/2” of the 6”. There was plenty of adjustment on each end of each cable to make up the remaining 1”, so no problem. The posts, now at 13’ 5”, clear the roof beam by a good ¼” �� Just right…

I unloaded and installed the lift myself, with a bit of help from my Kubota L48 loader and a fork attachment. Pallet shipping weight was around 2300lbs, just at the limit of what my tractor can handle. Once I pulled the pallet apart, and installed the column extensions, I used the tractor forks and a rigging strap to lift the columns and stand them up. One stood up, they’re actually pretty stable as all the weight is mostly toward the bottom of the columns. I was able to walk the columns into position across the floor without too much trouble. Turns out the column bottoms are not perfectly flat, so a bit of rock and roll and you can actually move them around without too much trouble.

I was able to get it installed without having to call Challenger, but there were a few issues with the instructions… they say to lift the carriages to drill the mounting holes in the concrete under them – but they don’t give you ANY suggestions on how to do it. Any attempt to raise them with a jack or the loader would risk destabilizing and tipping the column. My eventual solution was a come-along hooked to the top of the column, then I was able to raise the carriage far enough to get the Hilti drill in under the carriage, held up by the column safety locks.

Next issue was how to lift the overhead cross-beam into position – 13’ 5” up in the air – by myself. I could have asked for some help, but hey, I got this far on my own… Two tie-down straps bolted to either end of the beam, run up to the top of the column, allowed me to raise and hold it, while I got the mounting bolts in on either side.

The hydraulic filling instructions also left a bit to be desired. They say 3 gals, but the reservoir actually only holds 2 as I found out. You need to fill it with 2, bleed the air out, then fill with the remaining gallon. Not the first oil spill in the shop…

All in all, not bad. I certainly would not have been able to do it myself without the loader, but I’m sure 2 or 3 guys would have been able to stand up the columns without too much trouble. The unload it from the flatbed without forks would have been a real bear however.

And forgot to mention - as I'm sure some will notice - I installed the lift "backwards", with the power column on the left, rather than the right. It was closer to power that way, and for me the controls were more convenient on the left column than the right. The Challenger is symmetric, so it didn't make any difference, other than the sticker with the name is facing in rather than out...

Thanks for the helpful suggestions, now I’m ready to get to work!

Here are some pics. Lift just off-loaded, ~2300#:

View media item 90626
Some assembly required...
View media item 90627
View media item 90628
Columns standing:
View media item 90630
Clearance challenge:
View media item 90631
Cross-beam going up and in:
View media item 90632
View media item 90638
Wiring completed, just clears support beam:
View media item 90633
Here you can see where I re-drilled and lowered extensions 3":
View media item 90637
Done!
View media item 90634
Versymmetric arm design:

View media item 90635
View media item 90636

 

[Falcon67]

No pics, might check your links.

 

[pattenp]

I have a Challenger lift and have had it for many years. I know mine was made in Kentucky but I'd venture to say yours was made in China and may be assembled in the US. I thought Challenger moved a lot of the steel manufacturing to China to stay competitive. Anyway you got a good lift, enjoy.

 

[truckin-on]

I have a Challenger lift and have had it for many years. I know mine was made in Kentucky but I'd venture to say yours was made in China and may be assembled in the US. I thought Challenger moved a lot of the steel manufacturing to China to stay competitive. Anyway you got a good lift, enjoy.

Thanks! Their economy lifts are made overseas, but the CL series are made in Kentucky.

 

[Killer95Stang]

You can really tell how much more quality you get from an American made Challenger over some of the other popular brands. Just look at the care that was taken just to package the lift, not to mention it doesn't seem to have all the scuffs and scrapes that everyone seems to complain about.

Good job...

 

[truckin-on]

You can really tell how much more quality you get from an American made Challenger over some of the other popular brands. Just look at the care that was taken just to package the lift, not to mention it doesn't seem to have all the scuffs and scrapes that everyone seems to complain about.

Good job...

Yes, it was very well packed - and there was no damage from shipping. Only minor quality issue of any note was a cross-threaded bolt holding the cable stay pin at the bottom of one column. Other than being a PITA to remove, not a big deal. No missing parts either. Also, the trucker only hauls for Challenger, so nothing but lifts on the trailer...

 

[346ci]

Just installed mine a few months back also. I'd have to agree with the instructions, lacking. Got it all figured out and went smooth.

Also glad I spent the extra money and went with CL over the others, very well built lift compared to the Rotary's I worked with for years.

 

[toyoguy81]

Awesome man. I went with a Challenger CL10 built from Kentucky as well. I bought mine used but am more than happy with it. I went with Challenger because of familiarity of using them at work, and quality. I love it and you will too. My neighbor saw mine the day I installed it, and I was able to locate him a used Challenger E10 and loves it. Enjoy!

 

[Diesel Dan]

My plan was to buy a Challenger CL10V3-2 but after getting the run around from local dealer for a month I ordered a Bendpak from summit racing.

 

[CJseven]

I bought a new challenger lift back in 2003 for my personal shop, really like it, I too had the 2 ft extension. I moved a couple years ago but took the lift with me. Just getting the new shop set up and will be installing it soon, also planning to do it my self.

Your pics also are not working for me.

 

[truckin-on]

re: pictures - I had the pics hosted on Imgur, don't know why some folks couldn't see them. In any case, I've moved them to a local album on garagejournal and changed the original post links, so any issues should now be resolved.

 

[thecj3man]

I have had my CL10 for a couple of years now and it is still my favorite tool in the shop. I put mine together myself also. As far as the instructions, I agree they were not perfect, but after putting my Dad's Eagle lift together, the Challenger instructions were a blessing. The translated Chinese instructions that came with the Eagle lift were useless.

 

[aarcuda]

Does this lift use the bent cold rolled steel for the columns or the thick 1/2" or 3/4" forklift rails like the Mohawk? I just got a used Ben pearson and I was surprised at the sturdiness in the columns that use 1/2" steel channels for the carriage roller bearing wheels (instead of greased teflon sliders).

 

[Ign]

Nice I like it! I particularly respect the fact that you needed to lower the lift a bit so you used the most important tool between your ears and made it work perfectly.

I want your tractor, my poor little L2800 is only good for about 800# at bucket CL. But I can never seem to justify the considerable $$ to upgrade....the old stuff barely depreciates at all and the new stuff uses DEF which pisses me off....

 

[Natemade]

Thanks for sharing, perfect timing for me as my cl10v3 is on its way.

 

[truckin-on]

Does this lift use the bent cold rolled steel for the columns or the thick 1/2" or 3/4" forklift rails like the Mohawk? I just got a used Ben pearson and I was surprised at the sturdiness in the columns that use 1/2" steel channels for the carriage roller bearing wheels (instead of greased teflon sliders).

It uses teflon slides, but the columns are pretty stout steel. I'm sure it will out-last me!

 

[truckin-on]

Nice I like it! I particularly respect the fact that you needed to lower the lift a bit so you used the most important tool between your ears and made it work perfectly.

I want your tractor, my poor little L2800 is only good for about 800# at bucket CL. But I can never seem to justify the considerable $$ to upgrade....the old stuff barely depreciates at all and the new stuff uses DEF which pisses me off....

Off-topic - the L2800 is a nice little tractor - very useful where the L48 would be overkill! I've had my L48 for ~14 years now, and couldn't do without it. I've used it at the limit for all sorts of lifting and excavating (off-load the steel building material, lift and move a Southbend knee mill, move some enormous stumps) and it's never complained. I'm sure it will out-live me.
The fork attachments are really handy for moving large logs also. But at ~8000lbs, it's not what you would call light on it's feet...

 

[BigBri]

I’m in the market for a lift too. I’m leaning towards the CL10 and spoke with the distributor in my area about a few questions. I was play on getting the 2 ft riser as well but I was in formed the the armed wouldn’t go any higher. I really wanted the arms to go at least 6’ high. The rep said bottom of arms are 74” but the web site said 75” to top of screw pad and I found another spot where it says 74 to the top of pad with 6” adapter. Would you mind tell me what you have from the floor to bottom of the arm. Thanks

 

[truckin-on]

I’m in the market for a lift too. I’m leaning towards the CL10 and spoke with the distributor in my area about a few questions. I was play on getting the 2 ft riser as well but I was in formed the the armed wouldn’t go any higher. I really wanted the arms to go at least 6’ high. The rep said bottom of arms are 74” but the web site said 75” to top of screw pad and I found another spot where it says 74 to the top of pad with 6” adapter. Would you mind tell me what you have from the floor to bottom of the arm. Thanks

I'll measure mine tomorrow and let you know. Dist. is correct - the extensions just raise the top bar by 2', so if you have a tall truck or van, you have enough clearance to get it high enough to work under it. The main columns and the carriages are all the same, only the extension is different. Well, also the cables are longer and you get an extra extension for the hydraulic hose to make up for the extra height. Depending on what you're lifting, you can also use the available extensions for the lift pads to get an extra 6" at each pad.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Only lift I've ran across that actually lifts higher is a bendpak by about 6"?

BendPak XPR-10XLS is the one.

 

[thecj3man]

I measured mine this morning. It is about 69.75 to the top of the lift arm when sitting on the top lock.

 

[BigBri]

I measured mine this morning. It is about 69.75 to the top of the lift arm when sitting on the top lock.

Perfect! Thanks

 

[truckin-on]

I measured mine this morning. It is about 69.75 to the top of the lift arm when sitting on the top lock.

I got the same on mine. And for completeness, at the top lock, you have about 67.5 clearance from the ground to the lowest point on the underside of the lift arm.

Conclusion - you could park a car under a car on the lift, but you would have a hard time getting a full size truck or van under there.

View media item 90822

 

[Gnfantic]

Hey guys, a local guy is selling a clean CL10V3 for $2800. Supposedly barely used and 2 years old. How low do the mounting pucks go? Can I get them under a stock suspension Corvette or other sports cars??

 

[truckin-on]

Hey guys, a local guy is selling a clean CL10V3 for $2800. Supposedly barely used and 2 years old. How low do the mounting pucks go? Can I get them under a stock suspension Corvette or other sports cars??

Seems like a good deal, but presumably you have to disassemble, move, and re-install it? You'll need help or a loader.

To answer your question, yes - the pucks are low enough to get under most any street car, including a C7 'vette. I'm very happy with my CL10V3!

 

[Mancino]

Not bashing your install, but did anyone from Challenger tell you it was ok to install the lift columns that close to a saw cuts? Or did you just do that on your own? Curious because I'm about to install my Mohawk and I'd be in a similar situation...I hear vastly different opinions. Greg Smith website says it's not a problem, while others say no.

 

[truckin-on]

Not bashing your install, but did anyone from Challenger tell you it was ok to install the lift column that close to a saw cut? Or did you just do that on your own? Curious because I'm about to install my Mohawk and I'd be in a similar situation...I hear vastly different opinions. Greg Smith website says it's not a problem, while others say no.

My decision. Not really happy about it, but had no other practical choice. Given the height, it had to be in the middle of the building, which is where one saw cut is. The saw cut is only about 1" deep into a 6" reinforced 4000 concrete slab, and I reasoned that the most critical were the column anchors in front and back, more so than inside and outside, so I moved it best I could to avoid the cuts as much as possible front to back. The one column is worse, as there are intersecting saw cuts under it, so I moved the column to maximize the distance from the cuts for as many anchors as I could. Everything torqued up OK, and it seems solid as a rock for everything I've lifted so far. Regardless, if I have something really long and heavy up there, I'm putting a lift stand under the heavy end if I'm working under it...

 

[truckin-on]

...I'm sure some will notice - I installed the lift "backwards", with the power column on the left, rather than the right. It was closer to power that way, and for me the controls were more convenient on the left column than the right. The Challenger is symmetric, so it didn't make any difference, other than the sticker with the name is facing in rather than out...

Update: turns-out this is not correct. If you install the arms "backwards" as I did, you'll find that there are positions where the "front" arms WILL hit the lift pump on the power column as the lift is raised. So it's unfortunately NOT a "practical" option to install them backwards as I initially did. I swapped them back around to the forward position, which is fine, just means that - depending on the vehicle - sometimes I have to back the vehicle into the lift to center the weight. In hindsight, I should have left the power column on the right.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Not bashing your install, but did anyone from Challenger tell you it was ok to install the lift columns that close to a saw cuts? Or did you just do that on your own? Curious because I'm about to install my Mohawk and I'd be in a similar situation...I hear vastly different opinions. Greg Smith website says it's not a problem, while others say no.

I had a similar issue with a saw joint and I contacted Hilti about it.
Basically they don't consider a saw joint like the edge of a slab. Tried to find the email but couldn't.

 

[like2wheel]

Update: turns-out this is not correct. If you install the arms "backwards" as I did, you'll find that there are positions where the "front" arms WILL hit the lift pump on the power column as the lift is raised. So it's unfortunately NOT a "practical" option to install them backwards as I initially did. I swapped them back around to the forward position, which is fine, just means that - depending on the vehicle - sometimes I have to back the vehicle into the lift to center the weight. In hindsight, I should have left the power column on the right.

Thanks for posting this. I need a lift with the controls on the left & might have done the same thing

 

[rnixon]

FYI... Challenger CL10V3 lifts are no longer Made in the USA!
They are "Assembled in the USA", big difference, because if you think about it, Every Chinese lift ever imported into our country has eventually been assembled in the USA

 

[tylerg1]

FYI... Challenger CL10V3 lifts are no longer Made in the USA!
They are "Assembled in the USA", big difference, because if you think about it, Every Chinese lift ever imported into our country has eventually been assembled in the USA

I am in the middle of the buying process, I don't mean to bump an older thread, but can anyone speak to this, I do not see it written on any of their websites. I can't seem to find a direct email to Challenger.
Thanks in advance.

 

[tylerg1]

I am in the middle of the buying process, I don't mean to bump an older thread, but can anyone speak to this, I do not see it written on any of their websites. I can't seem to find a direct email to Challenger.
Thanks in advance.

I got this email from JMC:

So legally Challenger can't say that this is an item that is 100% made in USA because there are a few parts that come from overseas, as little as they may be. However, I can still assure you that this is still a great lift.

 

[rnixon]

I got this email from JMC:

So legally Challenger can't say that this is an item that is 100% made in USA because there are a few parts that come from overseas, as little as they may be. However, I can still assure you that this is still a great lift.

I'll agreed it is a good lift, I know because I have one. I paid a premium for it because Challenger allowed the public to continue to believe the CL series was made in the USA.

Was Challenger' failure to disclose the CL series no longer qualified as " Made in the USA".... fraud?, probably not, but it certainly was unethical.

Buying American means more than seeking good quality. It means supporting American workers , our Nations economy and manufacturing base

Challenger has now joined the ranks of companies who have capitalized on the patriotism of Americans, who are willing to pay a higher price, to support the jobs and communities of our fellow citizens

Assembled in the USA can mean as little as slapping the stickers on the product ,before the final packaging. Until I learn otherwise .. " a few parts that come from overseas, as little as they may be"... Means the Challenger CL10V3 is a Chinese lift

 

[ricpad]

Could anyone tell me what the dimensions of the columns are and what the distance from outside of the column to outside of the column is? I believe the dimensions Challenger Lifts gives for overall width of 138.5" and 143" is from the ends of the baseplates and not the columns. Thanks!

 

[theegovernor]

I visited Challenger headquarters last week. The columns and overhead support are made there. The arms and carriage are made overseas.

 

[pelletman]

Not bashing your install, but did anyone from Challenger tell you it was ok to install the lift columns that close to a saw cuts? Or did you just do that on your own? Curious because I'm about to install my Mohawk and I'd be in a similar situation...I hear vastly different opinions. Greg Smith website says it's not a problem, while others say no.

Challenger manual says 8" from cuts in concrete

 

[pelletman]

I am in the middle of the buying process, I don't mean to bump an older thread, but can anyone speak to this, I do not see it written on any of their websites. I can't seem to find a direct email to Challenger.
Thanks in advance.

They answer the phone quickly and are very helpful

 

[wawazat8402]

I think the Versymmetric arms are what has sold me on the CL10V3. Our new house has an oversized 2 car attached to the pedestrian 2 car garage for my workshop. I really like the idea of being able to have the best of both 2 post configurations at my disposal and leaving the other slot open for a 4 post lift on casters.

My local distributor seemed to be pretty fair on install, but is everyone else pretty much paying the normal $4500 from a distributor?

 

[Chris705]

I just took delivery of my CL10V3-2EH for $4740.00. Online sales when adding delivery were slightly more. Your number sounds correct.