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Cheapest kitchen countertop swap?

ps2cho

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Mar 19, 2013
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Not really the garage...but looking for a DIY'ers perspective.
Currently have laminate countertops, they are trashed, need to be replaced.

Want to keep costs to minimum and willing to DIY install myself.

Our kitchen is standard L-shape. Is there "drop in" quartz countertops available that I can just buy and install myself, or is everything custom cut and fit?

Suggestions/advice?
 
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joey1320

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If we were to keep the same kitchen layout I would give epoxying the countertops a try. Looks absolutely great if the right colors are used. Seems super diy.


 

niget2002

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If we were to keep the same kitchen layout I would give epoxying the countertops a try. Looks absolutely great if the right colors are used. Seems super diy.



My parents are doing this. They did a test pour over the weekend on some scrap in the garage. Dad said they really liked the way it came out.

I'm looking forward to hearing how they do with the actual pour in the house.
 

joey1320

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My parents are doing this. They did a test pour over the weekend on some scrap in the garage. Dad said they really liked the way it came out.

I'm looking forward to hearing how they do with the actual pour in the house.


I really like some of the designs. I have considered doing it for the garage as a workbench top.
 

tthornto

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I have done the epoxy coating over existing laminate before, and It looked good for a while but wasn't tough enough. After a year the corners and heavy use areas were starting to get scratched up and areas near the stove where discolored from heat, after 2 years it ended up looking worse than the original beat up laminate looked.

I have Granite in my current house that I am happy with, but If I were to do mine over again I think I would try pouring my own concrete countertops. It seems like it would be pretty simple and inexpensive to carefully pull an old laminate countertop and build an MDF form around each piece. The options for different finishes, tints, and textures seem almost unlimited. It might not go as fast as having tops cut offsite and delivered, but if you have the luxury of time then you can save a lot of money, and still get a very nice end result.
 

mike93lx

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Quartz will be custom.

Ikea laminate is about the cheapest. A simple L shaped kitchen would be under $300
 

theoldwizard1

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We were actually able to peel the laminate off of our counter and replace it with new laminate.
 

mike93lx

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We were actually able to peel the laminate off of our counter and replace it with new laminate.

I thought about doing this in my kitchen, but the backsplash is installed on top of the Countertop, which I think would make it difficult to remove the existing laminate. Was that a factor for you?
 

mwalsh9152

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The previous owners of my house put tile, as they went as cheap as possible on EVERYTHING they did when they remodeled the house and added a 2nd floor. I do not recommend tile. Its nasty for a kitchen surface with grout that you cant clean thoroughly.

If I weren't planning an addition with a new kitchen layout, it would have been gone already.
 

infinkc

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Butcher block would be cheapest. Places like lumber liquidators has it cheap.
 

mcj115

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The cheapest will be replace with new laminate Wich is available at all the big box stores and is cut to fit. Locally there is a surplus building supply store that offers granite at a fair price.it is all standard counter depth. They will make square straight cut on site for you to install. The one limitation is with the square cuts it dictates the use of an over mount sink. Check surplus type store to see if there is anything to offer.
 

pancho400cid

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Well... If you really want "cheap" there is pre-glued laminate sections form the big box stores. They have endcaps and backsplashes and stuff to dress them up. I've never used them, and at their best, they would not be on a par with custom tops but I think they could work for a quick-and-dirty solution.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/VT-Dimensions-Formica-10-ft-6319-fxrd-Straight-Laminate-Kitchen-Countertop/1001266864

I agree that IKEA countertops are worth looking at. I put them in our "old" house when we were getting it gussied up for sale. I would not say it was "simple", but certainly doable for a fairly handy person.

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/cat/kitchen-countertops-24264/?cid=a1%3Aps%257Ca2%3Ase%257Ca3%3AIKE-IKE-061_IKEA_FY21_Google_CPSA_Kitchen_Text_Br_Exact%257Ca4%3Aikea%20countertop%257Ca5%3Ae%257Ca6%3Agoogle%257Ca7%3Acq%257Cid%3AIKEA%2520Branded%2520GM%257Ccc%3A915&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgomBBhDXARIsAFNyUqP4U6xA4FUpC_Gl7OJlu1dvXHNhkBs68A5oUGRwdDSlX-SAaA9Pt_gaAidwEALw_wcB

The hardest part for me was the lengths of the slabs are shorter than the full length of my longest top, so had to splice two together.


BEFORE:




DURING:




AFTER:


...
 
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reader2580

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Minneapolis, MN
Menards has DIY quartz countertops. You have to measure exactly for the tops. They will supply a template to check the fit for about $40. You need a fair number of bodies to the lift the tops into place without snapping them.

I was going to go with the Menards quartz tops, but I ended up with Silestone from Home Depot instead. HD had one of their sales so it only cost a few hundred more for Silestone. The price included measuring and installation which Menards does not.
 

Gunfixr

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I did a tile countertop on our first house, just over 20yrs ago. Used epoxy grout, so it wouldn't soak up anything. We moved out of there about 2 1/2 yrs ago. It was getting rough, some dings, staining of the grout in places.

Where we are now, I built wood countertops, and poured clear epoxy over them. Did three in the kitchen, one in the master bath.
Some scratching after 2 1/2yrs, but nothing bad yet. I can always sand and re-polish if I want.

Didn't end up very cheap, but they look pretty cool.
 
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glentre

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For those who want to remove old laminate from their counters, fill a squeeze bottle with lacquer thinner and direct a stream at the seam between the laminate and the wood substrate. It will start to de-laminate using a putty knife at the joint. After it starts coming up and you can get your hand under it, continue the stream of lacquer thinner at the joint and the whole sheet will come off.

Glen
 

lostmind

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I put new laminate ( Formica) over my old laminate. Sanded it with 80 grit first.
Been there for 20 years, still looks very good.
 

Bert_

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For those who want to remove old laminate from their counters, fill a squeeze bottle with lacquer thinner and direct a stream at the seam between the laminate and the wood substrate. It will start to de-laminate using a putty knife at the joint. After it starts coming up and you can get your hand under it, continue the stream of lacquer thinner at the joint and the whole sheet will come off.

Glen

Good to know. Sometime soon I'd like to replace mine which is 40 year old laminate sheet glued down to the original linoleum from the 1940's.

I see no reason not to use laminate again. Mine is still in good shape except where someone used it as a cutting board.
 

dcg9381

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I just did a 9' kitchen in the shop. For a counter, we went to Home Depot and bought one of their pre-cut laminate pieces. You basically iron the "ends" on (caps). Includes a 2-3" backsplash. They have them in stock (here) in certain lengths and with 45 degree cuts for making corners. It doesn't look bad and has held up well for about a year so far. I self installed. You really can't tell that it's laminate until you get real close or touch it.

A step up from that - they offer some wood slab "butcher block" deals for a few hundred, but these are not as resilient as laminate.

If you go to "custom" laminate, the prices on this get pretty close to the prices of low end granite (around here anyway).
 

tthornto

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b-boy

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Quartz is a lot cheaper than it used to be. After watching the installation, I don't think I'd attempt it myself. Especially if you have to glue up any seams.

Butcher block is great stuff. It's become pretty popular, and you can't beat the price. I put a bunch of it in my shop. I used Baltic birch from Lowes. It was ~$200 per panel.
 

rlitman

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If no corner sections of countertop are needed then prefabricated stone countertops can be fairly reasonable.

Floor and Decor has them from $222.59 ~ $500 for a 112"x26" slab with finished edges and a matching backsplash. If an overmount sink is used then the sink hole can be cut out with a relatively cheap 4" diamond blade on an angle grinder.

https://www.flooranddecor.com/prefab-countertops/ready-to-install-atlas-granite-slab-includes-backsplash-100598176.html#start=3

I never heard of these guys. Thanks, I'll be keeping them in mind!
But the question now is, how do I get an almost 10' slab home?
 

dcg9381

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Quartz is a lot cheaper than it used to be. After watching the installation, I don't think I'd attempt it myself. Especially if you have to glue up any seams.

For us quarts was on par with granite prices (they can vary). Nice thing about quarts is you only order what you need, versus buying a slab of granite.

We've ended up with a lot of spare granite due to installer mistakes. They don't value the remnants very much - so you can pick up some really nice pieces of cheap if you're willing to learn to cut it or pay someone to cut if for you.
 

mike93lx

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I never heard of these guys. Thanks, I'll be keeping them in mind!
But the question now is, how do I get an almost 10' slab home?

I've bought some tiling stuff from floor and decor... Good pricing and availability, on schluter, at least.

Transporting a 10' piece of granite would be a nightmare. Heavy, fragile, huge.

If I had to do it, it would be on my utility trailer, probably with a piece of 1" foam underneath
 

Dan V.

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About 20 years ago I made laminate countertops for the kitchen remodel. Laminate held up well, but it was time for an update.

Pulled the countertops, and was able to remove the old laminate using a heat gun to loosen the glue where necessary.

Recovered with new laminate - a premium Formica that I checked out at the distributor, and ordered from HD who has the best prices.

Was concerned about the laminate when installing as it is much thinner, about half as thick, as the old product. Made me sick to my stomach when the edge got chipped within weeks from pots banging around the sink and dishwasher.

Talked with the product people at the distributor; said that laminate is no longer made in the thicker horizontal grade as primary market is for the formed countertop makers who bend it into tight radius. I think it is one of those products that no longer perform like they did decades ago.

Had I known - would have installed a solid edge of some sort, or open my wallet and gone with another material.

Yes, laminate is the cheaper option and the product can look great. I learned to make countertops years ago while working for a cabinetmaker while in college. Later on worked with a guy doing high end (at the time)corian tops. I shudder at how quickly some of that stuff went out of style. It is the same with other materials. Product is fine, but replaced due to decorating trends - money out the window?

That's where laminate, to me at least, is a reasonable choice. Just need to be aware of the shortcomings of the thinner material.
 

C91x

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I've installed stone countertops in two different houses, bathroom and kitchen. Its not as daunting as people make it out. Prefab 8' sections would make it even easier.
 

glentre

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Good to know. Sometime soon I'd like to replace mine which is 40 year old laminate sheet glued down to the original linoleum from the 1940's.

I see no reason not to use laminate again. Mine is still in good shape except where someone used it as a cutting board.

No problem laying new laminate over old provided the old is firmly attached to the substrate and the old is scuffed first with a belt sander and the dust wiped off with lacquer thinner of other solvent. Any edge chips can be filled with Bondo and smoothed out.

It's been some years since selling my commercial architectural woodworking business but at that time, most laminate manufacturers made four thicknesses. The standard grade is approx. 1/16" thick and is used for counter tops and wear surfaces. The vertical grade at 1/32" thick is used for vertical non-wearing surfaces. The post-forming grade at about 3/64" is for rolled counter tops where the back splash and front edge are rolled in one continuous piece. The last is colored cabinet liner or backing sheet which is thinner than vertical grade and is used to prevent warping of panels by preventing moisture pickup from the back face of a laminated panel.

It is unlikely big box stores would handle post form or cabinet liner as these are specialty items used by custom shops and fabricators. However, a buyer needs to be careful in not getting thinner vertical grade from a local supplier when he wants the thicker horizontal. They look exactly the same.

BTW, vertical grade can easily be bent around a 2" or so radius counter edge or other curved decorative piece using a standard heat gun.

Glen
 

ooba tooba

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I owned my own stone cutting co for a few years besides working for other shop owners for a dozen years. It depends how big the L is. If it’s not over 6ft on one side with the cut out you should be able to remove your existing top, take it to a granite shop and have them use that as the template for the new one(as long as it originally fit nice to the wall). Mark out on It what edges you want polished, where the sink center is (center of the sink cab) where the stove/dishwasher and fridge are and the walls. Tell them to copy it and let them know you’ll pick it up (in a truck on an a frame) that way there’s no template charge and no installation charge. and carry it in standing up. It will crack or break carrying it flat. Stand up on cabinet a few inches back and quickly lay it down and slide int place. Shim where needed caulk it in and set the sink with 100% clear silicone. If it’s over 6 feet and needs a seam then let the pros do it.
 

CoogarXR

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The last one I did was just a cheap L-shape laminate from Lowes. It was a custom color and cut, and I think delivered it was less than $400 total. Problem was, they sent the wrong color. It was still a match for the kitchen, but it wasn't what we picked, so they gave me half-off, lol.

I have built my own with wood and sheet laminate, it's not that hard. But I'd probably still just get the ones already made next time.

I typically don't live somewhere long enough to justify the fancy/expensive counters.
 

snickers muncher

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Bringing back a dead thread...

When we did our kitchen everything was in bad shape and we started from scratch. We built our own cabinets and countertops. The counter tops are nothing more than 1/4 furring strips from the box store that I jointed, glued up, stained and finished with WaterLox. Five years later and they still look great even with a farmhouse sink mounted underneath.

Of course that's not cheap if you don't already have a decent table saw or router. It did take several days to apply the several coats of WaterLox finish.
 
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