Check Valve Question

[sp8zzz2]

Hello Hive Mind, In an earlier post I asked some questions about installing an after-cooler to my compressor. Someone posted on that earlier thread that I should install an in-line check valve between the compressor outlet and the cooler inlet to prevent any accumulated moisture in the tube from getting back into the compressor. I purchased a check valve off of Ebay and it is a Conrader CLB34.
First Question, what is the flow direction on this thing? And secondly do I need to use the unloader port or can I just put an screw in the port and seal it off?

 

[The Cobbler]

I don't see how moisture would go back into the tank of the compressor, wtaer will lay in a low spot . I don't think you need that check valve.
I don't know what the person was recommending for a plumbing set up, but I don't think you would need the unloader either. the unloader is to relieve pressure from the head for start up after shut down.
for direction of flow, the side with the unloader port would be the side that sees atmospheric pressure. the other side would be the side that sees the tank pressure

 

[Jswain]

Agreed leave the check valve out as long as the factory check valve going into your tank is still in place & working.

With the factory check valve unloading at the lowest point between the head & the tank I also don't see how you will have problems with water getting back into the compressor, unless you have a remote mounted pump underneath the tank.

 

[The 52 Ford]

Hello Hive Mind, In an earlier post I asked some questions about installing an after-cooler to my compressor. Someone posted on that earlier thread that I should install an in-line check valve between the compressor outlet and the cooler inlet to prevent any accumulated moisture in the tube from getting back into the compressor. I purchased a check valve off of Ebay and it is a Conrader CLB34.

First Question, what is the flow direction on this thing? And secondly do I need to use the unloader port or can I just put an screw in the port and seal it off?

I would put as few components in your system as I could to minimize the chance of leaks. You do not need more than one check valve between your compressor pump and your reciever tank. It's redundant.

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[The 52 Ford]

Hello Hive Mind, In an earlier post I asked some questions about installing an after-cooler to my compressor. Someone posted on that earlier thread that I should install an in-line check valve between the compressor outlet and the cooler inlet to prevent any accumulated moisture in the tube from getting back into the compressor. I purchased a check valve off of Ebay and it is a Conrader CLB34.

First Question, what is the flow direction on this thing? And secondly do I need to use the unloader port or can I just put an screw in the port and seal it off?

OH, Forgot to mention it, in my last post, but you want the unloader port on the compressor side. You want the pressure that is built up in the compressor cylinder to be able to unload without the reciever tank pressure being affected. The unloader is just to vent pressure from the pump so it starts up easier (or to stop building pressure in the case of a continuous run compressor)
EDIT: blocking the unloader port doesn't stop the check valve from functioning. Wont hurt a thing to block it, you'd just have to make sure theres another way for your pump to unload.

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[sp8zzz2]

Thanks for the replies. I guess I neglected to mention the whole reason I got a suggestion in a previous post to insert an in=line check valve was because the after cooler is mounted higher up from the compressor for space efficiency and accessibility reasons. Having the after-cooler above the compressor head as I have been told in previous comments will allow moisture to run back down the hose from the after-cooler back into the compressor cylinder.

 

[The 52 Ford]

Thanks for the replies. I guess I neglected to mention the whole reason I got a suggestion in a previous post to insert an in=line check valve was because the after cooler is mounted higher up from the compressor for space efficiency and accessibility reasons. Having the after-cooler above the compressor head as I have been told in previous comments will allow moisture to run back down the hose from the after-cooler back into the compressor cylinder.

I see what you mean. If you're going to run the second check valve, you can block that unloader port. Air flows IN on the side with the port, OUT on the side with no port. Unless you're running your air compressor in a sauna or a rain forest or something, a P trap between the compressor and the after cooler should be fine. You could drill and tap for 1/8" NPT at the bottom of the P trap and get a spring loaded drain that will open when it goes below a certain pressure. I have a filter/regulator that does that. IF the added check valve catches moisture that runs back to the compressor pump, it's going to pool (if there's much) on top of the valve and I'd be concerned with the valve leaking and still allowing water into the pump.

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[The Cobbler]

I still would not use the check valve. I would run the supply to the cooler higher than the cooler, then back down to it. the very small amount of water that might accumulate in that part of the line will be negligible at best

 

[The 52 Ford]

I still would not use the check valve. I would run the supply to the cooler higher than the cooler, then back down to it. the very small amount of water that might accumulate in that part of the line will be negligible at best

I agree. Again, add a P trap with a drain if you're still concerned.

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[The Cobbler]

yes to the P trap idea

 

[sp8zzz2]

If I do a P-Trap is that something I'd cobble together with a some 3/4" not fittings? A quick google search does not turn up anything that I see that would work.

 

[The Cobbler]

anything that creates a low point in the pipe will work. a Tee with a drip leg pointing down is all you need. put a valve on the leg facing down to drain it