Chop saw or Bandsaw

[BJ42LX]

What's your preference for cutting steel around the garage? A portable cut-off saw like this

or a hand held bandsaw like this?

I do the occasional steel project and I usually cut my stock with a hack saw (ugg) or a 4.5" grinder with cutoff wheel. My projects are mostly box tubing (1", 1.5", 2") and angle iron. The hacksaw and/or grinder both work well for low volume. But I'm getting lazy and would like to spend less time cutting and more time welding.

Thoughts?

 

[gsmornot]

I think this comes down to portability and space. If you have the room and don't need to be mobile with your work then chop saw. If you work outside the garage and need the ability everywhere, bandsaw. Dreaming a little would be a cold cut saw.

 

[pipsters]

I have one of these

Evolution Rage 3, cuts metal and wood, 2500 RPM saw

 

[Thunderbisciut]

A small 4x6 horizontal band saw is my weapon of choice. I used to use a Dewalt abrasive chop saw, but it was loud and made messy cuts. I'd like a cold saw, but I'm more than happy with the band saw.

 

[countrytech]

I need a saw as well and am trying to decide what to do. I've been looking at a Portaband saw with a stand: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Portable-Bandsaw-w-Stand/G8692

I need to make a number of cuts in round bar stock, and I have an upcoming project that will be cutting a bunch of 2x3 light angle iron to make shelves in my dad's Sprinter. I'm leaning towards that portaband for better accuracy and less mess, but I'm afraid it will cut slow on the angle iron. Maybe some one else can weigh in on this?

 

[sharkytm]

I need a saw as well and am trying to decide what to do. I've been looking at a Portaband saw with a stand: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Portable-Bandsaw-w-Stand/G8692

I need to make a number of cuts in round bar stock, and I have an upcoming project that will be cutting a bunch of 2x3 light angle iron to make shelves in my dad's Sprinter. I'm leaning towards that portaband for better accuracy and less mess, but I'm afraid it will cut slow on the angle iron. Maybe some one else can weigh in on this?

That thing is junk. We had one briefly. Grab a Milwaukee or P-C from eBay or CL, and add a Swag offroad table. I just bought the table today, and love my Milwaukee deep-throat.

 

[5mall5nail5]

I much prefer a bandsaw, but probably not a portable one.

 

[Unmarked Bill]

Whichever you get, have a good angle grinder and a stack of cutoff wheels.

 

[countrytech]

That thing is junk. We had one briefly. Grab a Milwaukee or P-C from eBay or CL, and add a Swag offroad table. I just bought the table today, and love my Milwaukee deep-throat.

Why was the Grizzly saw junk? I looked at one of those Swag tables but can't see how I'd get a straight cut when I'm pushing the piece into the blade instead of having the saw hinged and the blade cutting straight down...

 

[sharkytm]

Why was the Grizzly saw junk? I looked at one of those Swag tables but can't see how I'd get a straight cut when I'm pushing the piece into the blade instead of having the saw hinged and the blade cutting straight down...

Inconsistent blade tension, and the table hinge isn't particularly rigid.

The swag tables take mitre gauges, and you can cut darn straight by eye.

:edit: See, I'm not alone. \/\/\/

 

[RCL]

Swag table with a Milwaukee portaband.

 

[BJ42LX]

Grab a Milwaukee or P-C from eBay or CL, and add a Swag offroad table.

The swag tables take mitre gauges, and you can cut darn straight by eye.

Swag table with a Milwaukee portaband.

I think we have a winner! Swag looks like the right combination of portability, flexibility and accuracy.

 

[sharkytm]

I think we have a winner! Swag looks like the right combination of portability, flexibility and accuracy.

Plus, you get a bonus porta-band! Nothing makes cutting stock in the field easier. My Milwaukee has been invaluable, especially because it doesn't draw a ton of power. My 2000w Honda EU genset will run it no problem.

Oh, and Troy from Swag is really a great guy.

 

[sberry]

I dont have a portoband, just never got one, should have it. Chop saws are really messy, you need a way to deal with it, none of them ideal or easy. Outside in the winter time is best ha but for repair work are an essential and very versatile. I have a band saw, very rarely use it. I did a couple chop cuts which were big the other day but they are fairly rare.

You can saw cut most things I do with a saw but this is brutally fast. Rust, irregulars do not require the rigging etc. I want to make a flip down safety shield for this one yet. Its sureal sometimes how all that seems to be getting whittled into smaller bits. By the time it goes to scrap it really is.

If this was used more than 5 minutes a week I would put vaccuum table for dust. As it is with one off cuts can walk away from it.

I modified the whole thing after a bit of use

I should add another bolt to keep the vise square.

 

[gus1962]

I own a portable band saw and it's helping me a lot. So, I prefer band saw.

 

[theknurl]

my Milwaukee deep cut Portaband is in a cabinet right under the Athol.......my hacksaw blades last forever now

get a tube of the Milwaukee blade wax too
it'll cut faster and the blade will last longer

 

[mattmankow]

I have both... haven't used the abrasive saw since I got the porta band.

 

[Monte]

 

[sberry]

I like it, its cute.

 

[mdkingsley]

My chop saw cuts straighter but my millwaukee portaband is fast and less messy but I usually don't cut as straight unless I really try. I would love to have a Swag mount for it. For angles I use the chop saw. Keep looking on CL and pawn shops I have less than the price of a new one of either in both.

 

[evintho]

I think we have a winner! Swag looks like the right combination of portability, flexibility and accuracy.

Very easy to make your own. I made mine with $15 of 1" square tubine and a $2 garage sale vise. Saved about $120 and it does the exact same thing as SWAG's! Cuts are straight and burr-free. I keep it on the floor, in the corner and slide it out when I need it. I use it constantly cutting everything from 16ga sheetmetal up to 5/16" steel.

Here's SWAG's...................

Here's mine......................

 

[crewchief888]

i use an abrasive chop saw. 1st one was from HF, after it let all of it's smoke out several times, i bought a ridgid on clearance @ HD

no room in the garage for a horizontal band saw,
a portaband with swag's mount would be nice, but that would mean buying a portaband, and the mount.
and still with no room....

in the wintertime, when the wifes car is in the garage, i can put the chop saw on the bench, still be able to use it, and take it's portable stand in the basement for storage.

 

[tarbellb]

I do a lot of steel tube work. I generally need precision to 1/32", and while the band saw is a good option I feel they have a few downfalls. Size and speed.

Personally I have been very happy with a Dry Cut Chop Saw. The Evolution Rage III, 14" carbide tipped, slow RPM saw is a good, cheap example. Milwaukee also makes a slow RPM chop saw meant for carbide tipped blades.

Fast, accurate, and small foot print. Blades last long enough to justify the high price ($45-90).

 

[ElectroLight]

Bandsaw, leave the fireworks to the welder. I have the HF 4x6, the HF 7 1/4 metal cutting circular saw and a DeWalt sawzall for the road work.

 

[sharkytm]

i use an abrasive chop saw. 1st one was from HF, after it let all of it's smoke out several times, i bought a ridgid on clearance @ HD

no room in the garage for a horizontal band saw,
a portaband with swag's mount would be nice, but that would mean buying a portaband, and the mount.
and still with no room....

in the wintertime, when the wifes car is in the garage, i can put the chop saw on the bench, still be able to use it, and take it's portable stand in the basement for storage.

I hope you protect her car from all the sparks and metal dust... it sure makes a heck of a mess.

I've got an abrasive saw at work. It gets taken out in the field, and I hate using it at any point. It leaves **** everywhere, the cuts are sharp, its noisy as anything, and if you try to rush, it'll cut out of square.

However, even the monkeys I work with can use it, so the Portaband stays home.

 

[BD1]

The chop saw is nice for quick cuts. I like to use it outside because of loudness and sparks. The portaband saw is great.
For small cutting I prefer it mounted for better control. I bought this one cheap, cheap. The casting was busted off so I made a POLISH guard,stand, table , and mounted it vertical.
My harbor freight 4x6 band saw won't die. All I did so far was buy blades. Had it 5 years and it is used at least 5 hours a week.
So, you need both plus the horizontal 4X6 saw.

 

[crewchief888]

I hope you protect her car from all the sparks and metal dust... it sure makes a heck of a mess.

I've got an abrasive saw at work. It gets taken out in the field, and I hate using it at any point. It leaves **** everywhere, the cuts are sharp, its noisy as anything, and if you try to rush, it'll cut out of square.

However, even the monkeys I work with can use it, so the Portaband stays home.

yep, if i'm doing anything out in the garage, her car's outside.

i try to keep every thing inside, and away from any prying eyes.

i'd really hate to turn my 75lb sheperd mix loose, and i really dont like to waste ammo.. the less anyone can see the better.

her car blocks the view into the garage, if she's gone, i'll park my truck in the way....

she "lets" me have the garage to myself , unless it's snowing/sleeting/freezing rain kinda weather, and i'm not out there anyway
i can barely walk around in there as it is
with her car, my trail rig, harley, 2 sets of toolboxes, generator, compressor, pressure washer, a large bench, ect ect, it's a little snug in a 19x22, especially with the door closed.
the front of my trail rig is against the bench in the back, and i have enough room for a 21" snowblower behind it, and can still close the door

 

[NUTTSGT]

I already have a chopsaw but I'd still like to get a portaband to use on a SWAG table.

So my answer is both, one now, the other later.

 

[Builder302]

another vote for portaband, chop saw is faster but messy. Cold saw is more$$, but best of both.

 

[tomshep]

I have the Makita chop saw in OPs first post. I got it at HF when they opened in my area for 50% off one item. First, if you are using a hack saw ANYTHING is better. I am very happy with the chop saw. I drag it outside so I don't have the mess inside. I am planning on building a rolling base for it. For me, it works great. It is relatively quick and is precise enough for my needs.

Tom

 

[larry4406]

Anyone make a compound miter box conversion for a portaband?

 

[cookefab]

Why was the Grizzly saw junk? I looked at one of those Swag tables but can't see how I'd get a straight cut when I'm pushing the piece into the blade instead of having the saw hinged and the blade cutting straight down...

Grizzly is known for cheap 'nese junk, poor packaging/crating and extremely poor customer service...
HF shop equipment is about the same quality, but at least there is a store that you can return low buck junk to...
FWIW, my "good" 'nese made Milwaukee chop saw only lasted about 8 months under moderate use before the bearings failed...

Get the porta-band, buy or make a mount like the aforementioned Swag and be happy...

 

[BD1]

''FWIW, my "good" 'nese made Milwaukee chop saw only lasted about 8 months under moderate use before the bearings failed...''

Boy, that sucked. My Milwaukee is about 20 years old and made in JAPAN. It is still going strong. Was used on jobsite daily for two years when new. Company went out of business
and I got it from boss. I've used it on weekends since then. The vise is the old screw in/out type, not quick open.

 

[Andy Griffith]

I need to make a number of cuts in round bar stock, and I have an upcoming project that will be cutting a bunch of 2x3 light angle iron to make shelves in my dad's Sprinter. I'm leaning towards that portaband for better accuracy and less mess, but I'm afraid it will cut slow on the angle iron. Maybe some one else can weigh in on this?

Sounds like the majority of these cuts are going to be cut-to-length cuts?

If so I would go for the HF bandsaw as it works much better than a portaband or abrasive cut-off saw in most cases for the cut-to-length application.

Trying to hold/feed the material and make simple cut-to-length cuts on structural steel (bar stock, angle iron, pipe etc) with a vertical bandsaw is not the way to go. This is especially true with round stock and long lengths of stock.

In same vein, trying to clamp the material to something and then manipulate the unmounted portaband to make cut-to-length cuts is not so fun either, especially so if you have more than a handful of cuts to make.

If you have more than a handful of cut-to-length cuts to make (either now or in the future) you will quickly become frustrated with either of the two above methods.

The bandsaw will be slower than the abrasive cut-off saw on a per-cut basis but when used in the horizontal position the saw shuts-off itself when done so you can be doing other prep work while it's running.

I have two of the 4x6 bandsaws and find them to be among the most versatile and used metal working tools in the shop. I know the bandsaw takes up some room to store but to be honest if you are doing just about any sort of metal working in the future, the 4x6 would be an item that I would 'find a place' to store it. Even if that meant buying one of those small garden plastic outdoor storage boxes/mini sheds or something like that.

Having said that, I am keeping a close eye on the evolution cut-off saw to see how it holds up over time because using the 4x6 to make semi-complex angle cuts on long structural steel stock can be pretty frustrating (though absolutely do-able). I've had two projects now that have required multiple different angle cuts and I stock my material in 10' lengths which are a pain to manipulate to get the right angle. The hf vise will pivot but in these two projects not enough.

In situations where multiple angle cuts of differing degrees and ends of the material are required, it's much more convenient to hold the material in a fixed position and pivot the saw head vs having to pivot the material.

 

[countrytech]

Thanks for the advice Andy. You are correct, these cuts will be cut-to-length pieces.

Will a band saw cut hardened steel? I checked what steel dad wants for shelves in his truck and he said it's 2x3 angle Arden(?) tempered steel that he thought we had to have a chop saw with an abrasive blade to cut it.

I have some 302 stainless and tool steel rods 3/4 dia. that need cut for another project, what do I need for that?

I thought those horizontal bandsaws were made to cut hard steel... but obviously I'm a total newbie at metal working.

 

[kevin47]

If your using a Pot-a-band as a "band saw" what blade are you using...? Hard Back or Flex Back...?

 

[Andy Griffith]

Thanks for the advice Andy. You are correct, these cuts will be cut-to-length pieces.

Will a band saw cut hardened steel? I checked what steel dad wants for shelves in his truck and he said it's 2x3 angle Arden(?) tempered steel that he thought we had to have a chop saw with an abrasive blade to cut it.

I have some 302 stainless and tool steel rods 3/4 dia. that need cut for another project, what do I need for that?

I thought those horizontal bandsaws were made to cut hard steel... but obviously I'm a total newbie at metal working.

Good questions. In my experience bandsaws don't work well at all for hardened steels like tool steel and such. When I need to cut hardened steel I use my dewalt 14" abrasive chop saw. It works but its not the most accurate thing to use.

The abrasive chop saw has some drawbacks beyond the mess it makes. It can be surprisingly easy to get non-square cuts due to blade flex, it doesn't do will with thick material, will not work well (or at all) for cutting other types of material such as aluminum, plastics, etc, and the cut edges often need deburing before fit-up/welding.

That said, I use the abrasive chop saw for a number of applications where I need fast cuts on relatively thin material without a huge need for accuracy. For example I had to make several custom chain link fence sections and a couple of custom gates. Put the abrasive chop saw outside and made many cuts on the chainlink top rail (purchased 10' sections), though I did have to go back into the shop to grind the bur off the cut piece so it would fit into the fence fitting. And finally the abrasive chop saw and required blades win in the budget category (for initial cost anyway).

Given your above requirements, if I were starting from scratch with no saws, and I could stretch the budget a bit over the abrasive chop saw, I might look at the low rpm dry-cut saws. It may not ultimately have the overall flexibility of a bandsaw (differing materials, unattended operation, horizontal and vertical orientation) but it would serve well for cut-to-length applications. I suspect the more metal working you end up doing in the future you may end up with some sort of bandsaw.

Outside of an abrasive chop saw which runs as much as 4000rpm, I like to keep the rpms down to 1500 or less for cutting metal. Check specs for rpm on these non-abrasive saws carefully. The sliding compound miter saw from evolution looks attractive but the one I looked up runs at 2500 rpm. I think this is in an effort to have one saw do everything - wood, plastic, metal.

I'm not sure what type of steel your dad is referencing but I'd get further clarification on that since it sounds like he has something specific in mind. I just use plain old A36 structural steel for my various home shop/farm projects and it cuts very well on the bandsaw. There is a high strength tempered alloy (A514 I think it is) that comes in structural shapes but it would be way overkill for making shelves.

Here is one example
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326857_200326857

 

[gus1962]

I purchase my band saw blades on sawblade.com . I've tried their hard back blade in cutting aluminum.

 

[fflintstone]

real non portable band saw.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Off the wall question:

Can a port-a-band be mounted onto a frame similar to a miter chop saw so that it will swing down like a miter saw and still be able to be pivoted laterally to cut angles?

I like the idea of the vertical mounting, but for cutting long or heavy pieces I think it would be easier to have a table to rest the material on then simply lower the blade to the material. I realize this might take some fabrication, but that to me is half the fun.