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Duke55

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Joined
Jan 18, 2013
Messages
370
Location
Utah
Thanks to all for following along and leaving comments.

The two paint schemes I have given the most thought are the simple clean two tone I previously stated and a wild heavily paneled/blended/striped paint job using various shades of root beer kandy.

For some reason on this car I feel simple/clean or wild/over the top are the only options (nothing in between).

Not sure what the issue is with the p-hammer video. Currently it's not letting me repost it either.




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Last edited:

kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
In the 50's they were black with mid-sized flames out of the front wheel wells.
Sometimes out the grill and onto the hood.
But never oversized.
18 to 20 inches long max.
 

sevt_chevelle

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Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
128
Location
Northern Iowa
Care to share the construction of your p-hammer frames? A good friend of mine loves my Milwaukee but doesn't want to spend the kind of money they bring. I showed him some pictures of the one you built and would like to build one himself.

What are the specs of the tube?
Thanks
 
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Duke55

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Jan 18, 2013
Messages
370
Location
Utah
Care to share the construction of your p-hammer frames? A good friend of mine loves my Milwaukee but doesn't want to spend the kind of money they bring. I showed him some pictures of the one you built and would like to build one himself.



What are the specs of the tube?

Thanks



I have been using 3/4" schedule 40 black pipe for the frames and 1-5/16" schedule 40 black pipe for the yoke that holds the hammer which fits without machining. My goal was quick and inexpensive.

I had a friend drop off his Watervliet to let me try out for a bit so I can now compare to a real unit.

If I had a real one I would still keep my homemade ones around. The Watervliet is a lot more powerful, rigid and heavy. It is way quicker for shaping but was way more temperamental for finish work (likely a non-issue if I had a little more time to figure how it wanted to run). The air needed to be turned way down and with the rigid frame I found the preload between the hammer and lower die needs to be just right or the hammer won't start up. This is not the case with the homemade. Can run quite a bit higher pressure so it always starts up even with a lot of preload.

Also if you are only doing finish work it is quite time consuming so it is nice to have the lite weight frame. The lite weight frame work good if you keep the throats reasonable. The really deep one I made flexes a bunch but still does the job when finishing. I plan to make a 1-5/16 OD frame someday similar to a real unit to see how it will perform.

Last frame I built I added another joint so I can get into many more locations.

ca12c25c0414b07e4a0e2852f0bb7fd6.jpg

I want a name brand one even more now that I have used one but it is nice to be able to make whatever frame you need within an hour or two also.


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Duke55

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Utah
Can’t believe it’s been as long as it has since I posted last. Looked through all my threads last night and figured I should get posting again. Since I left off with a planishing hammer I start up with another.

Picked up this Milwaukee hammer. Started machining some dies out of S7 today. Ended the day with a pile of die blanks ready for final profile and a handful with the profiles done.

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Duke55

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Utah
Looked through my pictures and I haven't made much progress on the merc for a while. Since my last update I did rework all the gaps on the rear bumper. 232c0eb9521f7a923842ce4c4a1f7126.jpg

The pile of non merc related updates that I have will be posted in my chopped 55 thread since that's turned into my catch all.

Thanks for looking


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Miss the Pontiacs

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Joined
Nov 7, 2016
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16,434
Location
Saskatchewan Canada
Great project. Looks fantastic even at this stage. When I was a kid a neighbour had a four door but it always intrigued me. The suicide doors were something I didn’t see again until another local guy bought a 1964 Lincoln.
It is going to be a beautiful to drive that down the road.
 
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Duke55

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Messages
370
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Utah
Finished machining the p-hammer dies yesterday. Hopefully I can get them heat treated next week then will have to give them a try.
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Duke55

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Utah
Back from heat treat and cleaned up. Will have to give them a try tomorrow.
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Duke55

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No updates yet. Plan to get the Corvair van done this winter and then start back up on the Merc. I am getting anxious for some metal work.


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tlmartin84

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Apr 23, 2012
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West Virginia
Where did you send your dies to for heat treatment?

How are they holding up? Do you have a set to planish your spot welds prior to knocking them down?
 
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Duke55

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Utah
Where did you send your dies to for heat treatment?

How are they holding up? Do you have a set to planish your spot welds prior to knocking them down?

I took them to a local machine shop for heat treat. They are holding up great. I use whatever die fits the panel best on the spot weld or final weld.
 
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Growlertdi

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May 17, 2016
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410
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Millersport, Ohio
Amazing metalwork. its too bad the video of the hammer in action doesn't work anymore. its hard to understand how the thing works without some description..

is one die rounded and one die flat? are they a matched convex/concave set?

All I know is the photos of the metalwork after you replace the patchwork with one sheet look amazing.
 
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Duke55

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Utah
Amazing metalwork. its too bad the video of the hammer in action doesn't work anymore. its hard to understand how the thing works without some description..

is one die rounded and one die flat? are they a matched convex/concave set?

All I know is the photos of the metalwork after you replace the patchwork with one sheet look amazing.



Generally a flat upper die and a radius lower die that matches the contour of the panel. If it is a reverse curve then the radius die is on the top. Didn’t realize the video doesn’t work anymore. Will have to do another comparison video with both my homemade hammer and my Milwaukee.


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Duke55

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Utah
Hey Duke

It was fun visiting with you last week. I hope the Roadster show was a good one for you.



Glad all the timing worked out. Good to catch up and see all the work you have done on the party garage since the last time I visited. Roadster show was good. Brought home a nice 51 merc front bench seat for my merc.


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Duke55

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Utah
Man, glad to see you back. All your work is great, but I'm kinda hankering for some COE progress. :)



Thanks. I am anxious to get back to work on the Merc and COE. I can’t believe either one of them have been on the back burner this long. The last year I think I have been as busy as I have ever been. Now I have a few more projects ahead of them. I am just finishing up a pretty wild Model A that should be sent down the road in a couple weeks. I started a party garage build this last Fall that I should have created a build thread for. Still a long ways to go on the garage. I pulled a 59 F100 4x4 into the shop to build for my oldest daughter (have made good progress). Hopefully some day soon I will learn my lesson and not start any new projects until the Merc and COE are done.


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Offcenter12

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Feb 3, 2018
Messages
151
Location
Seattle
No problem, I understand completely. Have a "father/son" 59 Ranchero in the driveway with no engine or trans and the usual floorboard/rockers evaporated after 60 years, but it's raining like a dog here and won't see much progress till the weather warms and dries out. Your projects are all inspirational so look forward to anything posted.

Thanks, John
 
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Duke55

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370
Location
Utah
Hey Duke

You mentioned that you were working on a version of the party garage

How about a couple shots of your party room.



Not much to see yet but a mess. I took a couple quick walk around videos today but it won’t let me post them.

Front (2nd floor - 48’x32’ half suspended concrete and half floor joists)
IMG_0529.jpg

Rear (1st floor - 48’x60’)
IMG_0530.jpg

3rd floor party room 18’x32’
IMG_0754.jpg

2nd floor party room 24’x32’
IMG_0749.jpg

IMG_0016.jpg

IMG_0576.jpg

Easier to see the 3rd floor here
IMG_0011.jpg

The third floor will have a closed section with lots of windows in the end and a covered deck section.

Full Bathroom on 1st floor

The plan is to work in my little shop and leave this one for clean storage, parties and an upholstery room (no dirty work).

Obviously a lot of work to go. I took the winter off to work in the heated shop until it warms up. Then I’ll get back to it.




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C_F

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Jan 21, 2005
Messages
9,675
Location
Utah...SNOW BLOWS!
Hoooleeyyy ****! That new garage looks fanTASTIC!!
Three floors? I have long dreamed of building a multi-level garage like that into a hillside, using suspended concrete for floor joists. If they can build parking structures that way, why not a garage? :)
Please post more build photos as you go. :drool:

Also, I see a '65 F250-ish? grille in one photo, what's going on with that? IIRC, the wrecker truck you obtained was an earlier model.
 
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Duke55

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Messages
370
Location
Utah
Hoooleeyyy ****! That new garage looks fanTASTIC!!

Three floors? I have long dreamed of building a multi-level garage like that into a hillside, using suspended concrete for floor joists. If they can build parking structures that way, why not a garage? :)

Please post more build photos as you go. :drool:



Also, I see a '65 F250-ish? grille in one photo, what's going on with that? IIRC, the wrecker truck you obtained was an earlier model.



Thanks. I have dreamed of a building like this for a long time also. I have big plans for the inside.

I finally got my hands on my dads factory 65 ford crew cab. It is one of the very few first year crew cabs built in Detroit before they moved the operations to Canada. Wreck is a 1960.

IMG_0087.JPG

IMG_0088.JPG




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tlmartin84

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Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
1,085
Location
West Virginia
I have been using 3/4" schedule 40 black pipe for the frames and 1-5/16" schedule 40 black pipe for the yoke that holds the hammer which fits without machining. My goal was quick and inexpensive.

I had a friend drop off his Watervliet to let me try out for a bit so I can now compare to a real unit.

If I had a real one I would still keep my homemade ones around. The Watervliet is a lot more powerful, rigid and heavy. It is way quicker for shaping but was way more temperamental for finish work (likely a non-issue if I had a little more time to figure how it wanted to run). The air needed to be turned way down and with the rigid frame I found the preload between the hammer and lower die needs to be just right or the hammer won't start up. This is not the case with the homemade. Can run quite a bit higher pressure so it always starts up even with a lot of preload.

Also if you are only doing finish work it is quite time consuming so it is nice to have the lite weight frame. The lite weight frame work good if you keep the throats reasonable. The really deep one I made flexes a bunch but still does the job when finishing. I plan to make a 1-5/16 OD frame someday similar to a real unit to see how it will perform.

Last frame I built I added another joint so I can get into many more locations.

ca12c25c0414b07e4a0e2852f0bb7fd6.jpg

I want a name brand one even more now that I have used one but it is nice to be able to make whatever frame you need within an hour or two also.


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Duke, when you are getting these onto your panels are you removing the hammer and then reinstalling it once the unit is in place?

This one looks like you can un assemble it, or just rotate it to the side. Are than any side affects of that joint? Flimsy, vibration, etc.


I'm trying to figure out a quick way of opening mine to get it on a panel and close it that is still "solid".
 

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Duke55

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Utah
The hammer has a jamb T-nut but that can be loosened to allow the hammer to raise up. The one I put a slip joint in and another jamb nut was to get into a tough spot. It works just fine with the extra joint.


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