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cinder block installed sideways...

Dragiin

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Apr 20, 2015
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Lake Pleasant, AZ
hello, found this forum searching for suggestions on how to fill cinder block..

the problem im finding is no one seems to be asking or have the same situation as i do.. ive attached 2 fotos and you can see the blocks and how many holes im wanting to fill.

long story short ive had this structure up for years with dirt floor for the horses..ive long since sold all horses and related stuff and putting the structure to a new purpose. just got the poured concrete this last weekend and ill be framing up the front side over next few weeks.

so that said,,obviously the cinders were installed sideways at the time for natural venting but..

what now is the best way to fill and seal soooo many holes? looking for any suggestions..thanks!!

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kd3pc

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location and what are you planning to do with the wall/space?

Vapor barrier and fur it out, OSB and paint.

Or you could fill each one with mortar, labor intensive and slow to fill and finish, but secure and would look OK, with some paint for the most part.
 
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Dragiin

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Lake Pleasant, AZ
im in AZ,,going to just multipurpose the space, each bay will have door entrance or rollup door if i can find one cheap or used..my other detached garage is 100% cinder block and i love it..always cool in there and can crank the a/c when we hit 100+, but for $$$ purposes ill be wood framing this one

Vapor barrier and fur it out, OSB and paint.
on the inside right? kinda what i was originally thinking but hadnt thought about vapor barrier...im thinking ill still have to address the outside with something to keep birds and weather from punching through....? or combination of
I'd strongly consider plugging each with fiberglass and then going over it with either a cement board and stucco mix or just glassboard.
on the outside and fur out on the in side...ive never stucco before so gotta read up on that, but i like the idea,,would match the house.

well definitly a better position then i was in before! didnt have a real starting point.. thanks!
 

jonjon1

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I think your over thinking it, I would fill them things with weather proof foam spray, sword cut them flush after they dry, and pop corn paint that entire wall, foam and all... 3 hours of work and $200, lol...

I think I would personally mix up a batch of cememnt with 1/2" stone in it and fill them in, how long could it take, if you dont have a mixer you can rent them for short money and the sand, binder, and stone are cheap {sands $10 and 13 a ton for stone, so say $60 of materials}, a couple trowels, and a shovel, done...
 
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Dragiin

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Lake Pleasant, AZ
It's an interesting and attractive design. I wonder if you could find glass blocks that would fit the holes.

ive considered this as who wouldnt want natural light coming in!..actually found some on craigslist for free but not near enough..havent looked into what sizes are available or pricing.


I think your over thinking it, I would fill them things with weather proof foam spray, sword cut them flush after they dry, and pop corn paint that entire wall, foam and all... 3 hours of work and $200, lol...

I think I would personally mix up a batch of cememnt with 1/2" stone in it and fill them in, how long could it take, if you dont have a mixer you can rent them for short money and the sand, binder, and stone are cheap {sands $10 and 13 a ton for stone, so say $60 of materials}, a couple trowels, and a shovel, done...

LOL,,ya there was a time i would seriously consider foam to paint haha

but seriously,,so filling them with cement? not sure if any of it would stay put before cured..would have to be perfect mix not to fall out before cured? im liking this idea,, since back side of building is not visible to anything. and inside i can make clean.
 

RivennHewn

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If you're going to fill them solid, I'd use non-shrink grout. Put up some form plywood on the backside, and work it all from the other side.

Mix it fairly dry, so it doesn't run.
 

jonjon1

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ive considered this as who wouldnt want natural light coming in!..actually found some on craigslist for free but not near enough..havent looked into what sizes are available or pricing.




LOL,,ya there was a time i would seriously consider foam to paint haha

but seriously,,so filling them with cement? not sure if any of it would stay put before cured..would have to be perfect mix not to fall out before cured? im liking this idea,, since back side of building is not visible to anything. and inside i can make clean.

There is an old trick guys use to keep cement in place, its called a "FORM", lol
I would think a heavy stone mix would be perfect, maybe 3/4" stone in the mix, some lime, or you know what buy premix and just mix in your own stone?

Form the rear side with anything, old boards, anything,do it on a warm day, spray the blocks down with water and mix the cement a little dry with the stones, it will stay in there just fine...
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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3/4" pressure treated plywood and tapcons, both sides. Fill holes with insulation first. Or what I use instead of tapcons is a 3/16" hammer drill bit thru the wood and into the concrete. A couple of pieces of 8" tie wire folded in half stuffed in to the hole with a bit sticking out. Hammer in a regular framing nail or if it's in weather, use double dipped galvanised nails and less tie wire. Snip off the excess tie wire and paint. Screws can work too with care.
 

UserNameAttempt3

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I like the glass block idea...

I'd cover the back with some wood and fill with spray foam, then cut flush. It fills in quick and dries fairly fast. You can then cover it with stucco repair to match the block and then paint everything to match.
 

jonjon1

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What are the sizes of the wholes, the only glass blocks I have ever worked with were either 8x8, 6x6, or 8x6 with available in widths of 3 and 4"s... There were a bunch of rectangle sizes too but not as popular and they were normally thinner.
 
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Dragiin

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Lake Pleasant, AZ
What are the sizes of the wholes, the only glass blocks I have ever worked with were either 8x8, 6x6, or 8x6 with available in widths of 3 and 4"s... There were a bunch of rectangle sizes too but not as popular and they were normally thinner.

thats the problem im finding for that idea...the holes are 4.75x5,,so unless i go extremely custom or try to make my own,.. that idea is out.
besides that,,those glass blocks are crazy expensive
 

j p smith

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Just wondering about the overhang on the other side, I would think about a stud wall,(wood or metal studs) insulation and metal building material, inside you could sheetrock. In the Phoenix area there are several suppliers,Bunger on the west side and Powers over off 40th street. Sometimes you can get seconds
 
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larry_g

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Cement board and stucco on the outside and leave the inside open = 1000 storage bins/cubbies.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Not Bob

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How about building caps for each hole that just covers them and also registers into them, one on each side. Use a 2x4 between them and sandwich the hole closed.
 

firecracker

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I've done this sort of thing before, covered with expanded metal tacked to the wall then cement rendered (two coats) solid as a rock.:beer:
 

kbs2244

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404 has the idea.
It was the old hippie way.
You just grout them in like brick.
Otherwise I go with the foam.
I just used some of the "HI Expansion" Great Stuff to stiffen up a wobbling steel post set in a block wall void on the advise of the mason.
I let it sit overnight and it worked very well.
It will not be exposed, but your wall seems well protected.
 

Kevin54

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I would fir the wall out and cover with some FRP panels, some galvanized corrugated tin, or some sort of cedar siding. Bags of cement would take quite a bit, and be a pain. Or cover with cement board on both sides, and have the complete wall stucco'd.
 

borgdog

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Sounds like you don't need to heat it, and also sounds like may stay fairly cool by itself, so I would go for letting the light in and put translucent panels on the back side. Of course I'd then fill the holes with ****/useful bits of things I might use someday and would block most of the light anyway, but that's just me.
 

Modern Jess

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but seriously,,so filling them with cement? not sure if any of it would stay put before cured..would have to be perfect mix not to fall out before cured? im liking this idea,, since back side of building is not visible to anything. and inside i can make clean.

Quick-set high-strength mortar. Put a form on one side (plywood, to keep it from squishing out) and pack it in from the other side. It's really, really thick, really hot, and sets up while you're still troweling it. From personal experience, it is fantastic at filling vertical spaces like this, and is exactly the right product for this application.

My only hesitation is that you've got a whole lot of holes to fill, and it's going to get tedious quickly.
 
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mrvm

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I'd just get some large glass panes to cover the holes and rent this space out to some smoking hot sorority sisters.....

One way mirrors to charge Peeping Toms can generate revenue for renovation..LoL

p.s.: like the glass or brick filled holes suggestion
 

PugetDude

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Cover with asphalt-impregnated sheating, (powder-actuated fasteners or tapcons) stucco lath, and two coats of stucco parging...scratch coat and finish coat.

It's really the only way to get a finish that doesn't look like you filled 300 holes...

You're living in stucco country, hundreds of guys there will do this cheap...
 

Dagny

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Thats an interesting design cement blocks have a fraction of their weight holding ability when setting on their side most of the weight here is carried on the 8x8 sections between the holes.
 

ilovevocs

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Thats an interesting design cement blocks have a fraction of their weight holding ability when setting on their side most of the weight here is carried on the 8x8 sections between the holes.


Judging from the images provided that wall is not a load bearing wall.
 
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