Clean Slate Garage

[LSVLance]

I'll be right there! It looks like I'm about 650 miles from you...by the time I get there, my car will be due for it's next oil change. Perfect!!

Bring it!!!

Looking good! That cabinet between the doors is crying out for those kitchen sliding drawers to really utilize that space. I hate having to dig thru everything to find what I want.

Thanks! and me too... My original hope was to not fill the shelves up, just line stuff around the sides and back of shelves to leave easy access to everything. Those plans sailed pretty quickly though as I just ran out of room to put things the more I unpacked.

I'll look into kitchen sliding drawers, that's a good idea...

 

[LSVLance]

Big step today, two months after moving in I finally unpacked the last of the shop boxes...

I think I've decide this will be my "fab corner"... I've got a floor drill press and a 14" bandsaw coming next week and I need to build a rolling steel workbench that will fit against the wall when not in use.

My other choice to put the area is to park the RV all the way up to the back door and use the area right behind the front door. This may be a bit more convenient because closer to lift and tool area but electricity for the welder is more of a challenge there. Having the dirty area further away from my desk area might be a plus as well. We'll see...

So far I'm pleased as punch with how it is turning out. I hosed off the floor today and pushed the water out with a squeegee and it cleaned up pretty good. It wasn't slick at all when wet either BTW... I think it might be easier to clean up with a big mop and bucket but that's just one more thing I have to store the rest of the time when not using it. I'm considering it though. The shelves really helped consolidate my "treasures" and keep them in an orderly fashion. The wife was afraid they'd look "junky" but I think they look spectacular.

 

[zmotorsports]

The place looks amazing.

Nice job. It sure is a good feeling unpacking those last couple of boxes.

 

[C_F]

I agree, it looks amazing! When I grow up, I'd love to have a place just like yours.

 

[rattle_snake]

I like the up high storage above the bathroom. Good for stuff you know you won't touch for a long time but can't get rid of (aka hording).

 

[LSVLance]

The place looks amazing.

Nice job. It sure is a good feeling unpacking those last couple of boxes.

Thanks Mike! I even found some things that I forgot I had!!!

I agree, it looks amazing! When I grow up, I'd love to have a place just like yours.

Thanks!!

I like the up high storage above the bathroom. Good for stuff you know you won't touch for a long time but can't get rid of (aka hording).

Exactly!!!

 

[LSVLance]

You can kind of see in this picture what I had to do to get the shelves to fit to my satisfaction.

I found these shelves at Costco for $60 each. They are 4' wide, 24" deep and 8' tall with melamine shelves. I cut 8" off of the bottom of the back legs and attached them to the walls direct. This was to clear the trim and stem wall at the bottom. I then had to trim each of the front legs to the proper height to account for the hump\slope of the floor. The high spot of the floor is about where the pressure washer is and it drops about an inch each direction by the outside edges of each shelf. This way the shelves themselves are level, square and plumb.

It is hard being afflicted with the OCD but in a weird way satisfying at the same time. My wife thought I was crazy during the process but understood why once it was done. I'm sure some of you will understand as well...

 

[LSVLance]

I picked up a few tools this week that were sorely needed in the shop. Some were things I had before in my old shop but didn't bring with me, others were things I've always wanted.

First up is a Hein Werner 12 ton Hydraulic press.

I kept a lot of the steel and aluminum plates from my old press and got quite a few with this one as well to help in situating things when using the press.

I had a bench drill press before but I'm real happy to have a Chicago Machine Tools 12 speed floor drill press now.

This is the one I'm most excited about... I've always struggled with improvising when trying to make clean cuts on different types of metal, this Wilton 14" Tradesman Bandsaw should help considerably with that task.

I also picked up these 3 rolling shelf carts and a transmission jack.

The shelf carts are just cool, not sure what I'll use them for yet but I'm certain they'll earn their keep in time.

The trans jack is older, and leaks...but should get the job done with needed. I'm tempted to take it apart and see if I can find a shop to seal it back up again. Every tall trans jack I've ever seen like this leaks so maybe it's just the nature of the beast. Kind of a pain though in a brand new shiny floor shop though.

I also picked up some car setup tools which I'll show later once I get them all setup. I will say though, they will go very nicely with the 4 post drive on lift...

 

[zmotorsports]

I picked up a few tools this week that were sorely needed in the shop. Some were things I had before in my old shop but didn't bring with me, others were things I've always wanted.

First up is a Hein Werner 12 ton Hydraulic press.

I kept a lot of the steel and aluminum plates from my old press and got quite a few with this one as well to help in situating things when using the press.

I had a bench drill press before but I'm real happy to have a Chicago Machine Tools 12 speed floor drill press now.

This is the one I'm most excited about... I've always struggled with improvising when trying to make clean cuts on different types of metal, this Wilton 14" Tradesman Bandsaw should help considerably with that task.

I also picked up these 3 rolling shelf carts and a transmission jack.

The shelf carts are just cool, not sure what I'll use them for yet but I'm certain they'll earn their keep in time.

The trans jack is older, and leaks...but should get the job done with needed. I'm tempted to take it apart and see if I can find a shop to seal it back up again. Every tall trans jack I've ever seen like this leaks so maybe it's just the nature of the beast. Kind of a pain though in a brand new shiny floor shop though.

I also picked up some car setup tools which I'll show later once I get them all setup. I will say though, they will go very nicely with the 4 post drive on lift...

Nice score on the hydraulic press and the Wilton vertical bandsaw. I had the exact Wilton Tradesman bandsaw for about 8-10 years before selling it and upsizing to my Birmingham KB-45 a couple of years ago. Mine cut a LOT of metal over the years I owned it.

My hydraulic press doesn't get used as often as the bandsaw but it just as valuable so I'm sure you will appreciate that as well when it's needed. It is nice to be able to walk right to a piece of equipment and not have to seek one out from a friend or local shop so you should be pleased with the way you are outfitting your shop.

 

[LSVLance]

Thanks Mike... Good to hear others have had success with this type of saw. I fired it off yesterday to make sure it works (been a while since it was used according to previous owner) and the rubber traction wheels the blade rides on both starting walking off the cast wheels. I talked with a friend with a lot of machine experience and he told me to disassemble and clean everything very well and get some rubber contact cement to glue the rubber wheels back to the cast wheels. Then follow the tighten and adjusting instructions to get it all back in sync again.

This is my July 4th plan of action... Exciting huh?

Any ideas on getting the trans jack hydraulic cylinder to quit leaking? Or is it just something that goes along with the territory? Like I said, every one I have ever used all leaked...

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks Mike... Good to hear others have had success with this type of saw. I fired it off yesterday to make sure it works (been a while since it was used according to previous owner) and the rubber traction wheels the blade rides on both starting walking off the cast wheels. I talked with a friend with a lot of machine experience and he told me to disassemble and clean everything very well and get some rubber contact cement to glue the rubber wheels back to the cast wheels. Then follow the tighten and adjusting instructions to get it all back in sync again.

This is my July 4th plan of action... Exciting huh?

Any ideas on getting the trans jack hydraulic cylinder to quit leaking? Or is it just something that goes along with the territory? Like I said, every one I have ever used all leaked...

The rubber on my drive wheels never gave me any issues but I did my best to keep them clean and free of unnecessary debris but it sounds like a good contact cement would do the trick.

As for the leaking jack, my 20-ton hydraulic press doesn't use a bottle jack but a purpose specific pump and ram. When I purchase my press about 25 years ago it was well used and both the pump and ram leaked severely. I could not find any information in which to order new seals so I had to disassemble the entire system and take the parts to a local hydraulic repair company and they were able to order me the correct packing and seals. It is still leak free after nearly 25+ years of use so well worth the effort to do it once and be done with it.

 

[LSVLance]

Did some more investigating on the wheels of the bandsaw today...

What happens is once the saw is up to speed the Wheel Protector on the drive wheel starts to grow and wrinkle from the pressure of pulling the blade and then immediately starts to walk off the wheel. I found replacements and instructions say the new "tires" might be as much as 2" shorter than the old hard rubber tires and that you'll have to soak them in hot water to get them pliable enough to slip onto the wheels. I can easily pull these on and off the wheels with almost no effort...

So I'll just order the new wheel protectors instead of messing around trying to glue these back to the wheels.

 

[LSVLance]

New poly belts on the bandsaw wheels fixed it right up, runs like a champ now and blade stays right where it should.

Currently knee deep in this project...

Pulled the 3rd member out of my 9" after finding metal in the gear oil. It appears the front pinion bearing is giving up...

 

[zmotorsports]

At least you don't have to do the rebuild lying on your back. The lift makes is SOOOOO much nicer.

 

[LSVLance]

At least you don't have to do the rebuild lying on your back. The lift makes is SOOOOO much nicer.

I hear that!!!

 

[rixtrix1]

I like the up high storage above the bathroom. Good for stuff you know you won't touch for a long time but can't get rid of (aka hording).

Yes, very nice. Second sentence is SO true. I have a shed half full of that "stuff".

 

[rattle_snake]

updates? purchases?

 

[LSVLance]

Yeah, I'm a bit behind on this thread aren't I. I spent the summer working (my actual job work) out in the shop until 3 pm every day (when the electric gets expensive) and I must say, the AC did a fantastic job. I'm pretty happy with how the shop all turned out so far, it's pretty workable.

Haven't bought much but I have started a fab job on the Monte Carlo which has let me use some of the tools I bought this spring. The new belts on the bandsaw worked out well, but it needs more work apparently.

Apparently an oil seal on the gear drive has failed...

The blade is pretty dull as well. Thinking I should have just bought a new one now...

I'm putting a tube style splined end sway bar on the Monte that is a weld in job. Got the tabs for the end links on the Lower Control arms done, now working on the stands and tube for the bar itself. Just about ready to weld it in place.

How are things going in Chandler? Survive the summer okay? I've been out to SDHQ once for this project and might need to head out there again soon. I'm like a kid in a candy store there... **drool**

 

[zmotorsports]

I'm putting a tube style splined end sway bar on the Monte that is a weld in job. Got the tabs for the end links on the Lower Control arms done, now working on the stands and tube for the bar itself. Just about ready to weld it in place.

Lance, nice job on the sway bar. It's a good feeling to get back to working on projects IN the shop vs. ON the shop isn't it?

As for the sway bar, can I make one small recommendation. I did something similar on a friends Camaro several years ago and had to mount it low like yours due to clearance issues. I fabricated a nut plate to weld to the chassis and then on the sway bar I fabricated a corresponding mounting plate that was welded to the sway bar tube but could then be bolted to the nut plate on the chassis. I did this for two reasons, firstly access to anything above the sway bar was very limited with the sway bar in the way so having the ability to remove it for future work was nice and secondly if I every had to change the sway bar due to damage (because it was so low) I could merely unbolt the sway bar from the car and do the work on the bench then bolt it back to the chassis. Just a thought.

Also, if you are needing bandsaw blades, may I suggest using bandsawbladesdirect.com? I've been using their Lennox Bi-Metal blades on both my vertical and horizontal bandsaws for many years now and their service, delivery speed and customer service is great.

Here is a link to their Lennox Bi-Metal blades.
https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/band-saw-blades/bi-metal-band-saw-blades?dir=asc&order=name

Keep up the great work and keep the pictures coming. I love seeing your beautiful shop.

 

[LSVLance]

Also, if you are needing bandsaw blades, may I suggest using bandsawbladesdirect.com? I've been using their Lennox Bi-Metal blades on both my vertical and horizontal bandsaws for many years now and their service, delivery speed and customer service is great.

Here is a link to their Lennox Bi-Metal blades.
https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/band-saw-blades/bi-metal-band-saw-blades?dir=asc&order=name

Thanks for the kind words Mike. I'm considering making the sway bar tube removable but I have to figure out where it's going to end up first. Yesterday I did this so I could start over.

I'm looking the bandsaw blades you linked and I have a question.

Currently on the saw is a 3/8" wide blade and I also have a 3/4" blade that came with it. Book calls for a 92.5" x 0.025 x 14th for metal.

Lennox starts at 3/4" x 0.035

What size blade and teeth per inch would you suggest for me as a good for anything type blade?

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks for the kind words Mike. I'm considering making the sway bar tube removable but I have to figure out where it's going to end up first. Yesterday I did this so I could start over.

I'm looking the bandsaw blades you linked and I have a question.

Currently on the saw is a 3/8" wide blade and I also have a 3/4" blade that came with it. Book calls for a 92.5" x 0.025 x 14th for metal.

Lennox starts at 3/4" x 0.035

What size blade and teeth per inch would you suggest for me as a good for anything type blade?

Lance, I am currenlty using the 1/2" x .025" Diemaster Bi-Metal with a variable pitch tooth (10/14) on my Birmingham 20" vertical band saw and a 3/4" x .035" Lennox Classic Bi-Metal (10/14 tpi) on my Baileigh horizontal band saw. If memory serves I used the 3/8" x .025" Lennox on my old Wilton 14". Too bad you didn't buy your Wilton sooner, I had 3 brand new blades that I let go when I sold my Wilton two years ago. I would have much rather given them to you.

 

[LSVLance]

So I'm a bit behind on this thread, I'll remedy that soon I promise. In the mean time, I need some advise on my current project, bandsaw puking oil repair.

Without knowing exactly where the oil was coming from, I ordered all of the seals for the front cover and got started with disassembly. Once I figured out that if I disengaged the clutch I could get to the back side to drive a roll pin out, it went fairly well.

See that bearing between the top shaft and the cover? That's this bearing and it appears to be the only thing keeping the oil inside the cover.

It is a TPI 6206zz

For reference, this is what the cover looks like with the bearing removed. BTW, it was a bit of a tight fit but the bearing slid off of the shaft without having to use a puller or anything, not a press fit at all.

The roller bearing behind the cover has a gear that rides on it that engages and disengages the clutch.

Now, my question is...if I order a replacement sealed bearing, how do I know it'll hold oil in better than this one?

This reminds me specifically of the issues I had with the sealed axle bearings on my 9" that I fought leaks with forever before switching to A20 style bearings with an actual effing seal after them...

Anyone ever deal with a "sealed" bearing leak successfully that can share any tips?

 

[C_F]

I assume this wasn't leaking due to overfilling it, right?

Before installing the new bearing, you could clean both inner & outer mating surfaces with brake cleaner, then apply a thin bead of RTV gasket maker to the shaft (where the bearing will sit) & outer cover. That should keep oil from going anywhere but inside the bearing roller area itself.

 

[LSVLance]

Naw...if anything it was getting pretty low on oil before I pulled it apart, barely any showing up in the sight glass. I used your RTV suggestion to varying degrees of success with the sealed bearing leaks I had on my ford 9" and that thought has crossed my mind. As much oil as it was puking though, it couldn't just be sneaking by the tight space between the races and housing\shaft I don't think. It has to be coming thru the bearing itself.

I'm trying to figure out the bearing code now. The book calls for a 6206ZZ but the bearing I took out is a 6206Z.

I have no reason to believe it has ever been apart before but since I bought it used really don't know. This bearing sure looks like it has holes to allow oil to go thru both side of the bearing. I can't help but wonder if a "ZZ" bearing might be sealed whereas a "Z" bearing isn't and that is what is causing the issue?

 

[LSVLance]

And here's an updated on the Monte Carlo after the Sway bar upgrade. It's awesome!!! I've raced it 3 or 4 times since the install and it just keep getting better and better as I fine tune the setup.

Here are some final pics of the install.

The tube hangs about 3/4" below my cross member and the end links are lower than that...but they are right inside the tire so not a big deal. So far they haven't hit anything.

We had a local SCCA Autocross here last Sunday...and the course was awesome! Really fun fast course that was really Barney friendly.

Ended up 14th overall PAX and 15th overall in Raw time out of 118 drivers, my best showing so far with this Region. I haven't turned a knob or bolt on the car in two full events now...just working on driving it better.

Here was my fastest run in the TO fun runs.

The front bar on it's stiffest setting really has the rear tires planted on the big fast sweepers, something the car has NEVER had before. And there isn't even the slightest hint of a push anywhere.

These pictures were taken entering the right hand showcase turn about mid point in the run.

To say I'm happy with the performance would be an understatement. I had a very accomplished autocrosser ride in and drive the car Sunday and he had good things to say about the car as well, saying it handles well and is very balanced. He gave the driver some pointers which helped me set my fast time on my last run and he mentioned a couple of things that felt strange to him about the car. Most were "analog" deals vs the "digital" cars he is used to driving but one of them is something that I'm aware of and will be dealing with next. It's not crucial but it is near the top of the list for future enhancements.

Meanwhile, I'm going to just keep driving it into the ground and enjoying the heck out of my winter racing season.performance would be an understatement. I had a very accomplished autocrosser ride in and drive the car Sunday and he had good things to say about the car as well, saying it handles well and is very balanced. He gave the driver some pointers which helped me set my fast time on my last run and he mentioned a couple of things that felt strange to him about the car. Most were "analog" deals vs the "digital" cars he is used to driving but one of them is something that I'm aware of and will be dealing with next. It's not crucial but it is near the top of the list for future enhancements.

Meanwhile, I'm going to just keep driving it into the ground and enjoying the heck out of my winter racing season.

 

[Ronin22]

That sway bar looks sturdy!!
Never would have pictured a Monte Carlo doing Auto X. Maybe you've addressed this many times, but if you don't mind me asking: what lead you to build a Monte Carlo?

 

[rattle_snake]

... This bearing sure looks like it has holes to allow oil to go thru both side of the bearing. I can't help but wonder if a "ZZ" bearing might be sealed whereas a "Z" bearing isn't and that is what is causing the issue?

Yes the 6206 can be had in different flavors including no seals, one side or both.

Double seal are common acc belt idler bearing and can be found locally at napa.

 

[LSVLance]

That sway bar looks sturdy!!
Never would have pictured a Monte Carlo doing Auto X. Maybe you've addressed this many times, but if you don't mind me asking: what lead you to build a Monte Carlo?

Well, it's a simple answer really...its what I had in the garage when I discovered autocross and I just rolled with it.

This is my 5th Monte Carlo, my first car was a 78, then two more 3rd gens and this is my second 4th gen.

 

[LSVLance]

Yes the 6206 can be had in different flavors including no seals, one side or both.

Double seal are common acc belt idler bearing and can be found locally at napa.

Thanks Justin...I'll search around tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

 

[Ronin22]

Well, it's a simple answer really...its what I had in the garage when I discovered autocross and I just rolled with it.

This is my 5th Monte Carlo, my first car was a 78, then two more 3rd gens and this is my second 4th gen.

Haha, it truly is a simple answer! Thanx!

 

[LSVLance]

Funny thing I noticed when looking in manual to see what kind of gear oil to put in gear box...

"Replace bearing if leakage occurs"

lol... If all else fails, read the instructions right?

I found a 6206ZZ with seals on both sides and put it all back together.

No extra parts left over and so far it runs like a champ with no leakage. Love the new blade I put on as well, I guess you don't realize how dull an old blade is until you put a fresh new on on. Got all the guides adjusted just right, the blade is running true on the new wheels...I'm ready to start construction of my new rolling steel workbench now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Glad you got the leak sorted out.

Reading the manual is typically for other people, but can come in handy now and again.

 

[C_F]

Glad you got the leak sorted out.

Reading the manual is typically for other people, but can come in handy now and again.

Yeah, just for torque specs & things like that.

Hopefully your new double sealed bearing cures your leak for good!

 

[LSVLance]

Okay, now that my band saw is working properly again, I'm ready to build a steel workbench. I'll post my first rendering up and ask for opinions and suggestions on what to add, subtract or change. It needs to be portable yet sturdy as I'll be using it for metal fab, vice work, grinding work and just overall bench use.

Here is where I'm at so far. Nothing has been purchased yet except the casters and locks which will be here tomorrow. Hope to find the steel locally somewhere that will cut it all to length for me to save time.

Top is 3/16" steel 30" x 60", base is all 2" x 2" square tube, and it'll have (2) fixed 4" casters, (2) swivel 4" casters with total locks and (4) 4" floor locks. (I haven't decided if i want the casters or the locks on the outboard corners so I didn't draw both in). I'll also have a shelf of some sort on the bottom braces (either expanded metal or more steel) to put the welder on, argon bottle, and other welding accessories.

The idea is to build mounts on 1.5" x 1.5" square tube that will slide into the open ends of the 2x2 tubes to hold a vice, a grinder, and whatever other tools I'll add in later.

Any thoughts or suggestions so far?

 

[LSVLance]

The one thing I'm trying to decide on is overall height. Right now the top is at 36" which I like as a working height. With the 5 5/8" casters and 2x2 tubing that makes the top of bottom shelf to bottom of top shelf 26 3/8".

My argon bottle with gauges is 28" tall and my Miller 211 needs 27 3/4" for the side to open all the way up.

I can either make the legs 2" longer, put the bottom shelf below bottom braces, or just tilt the bottle to get it in and not have the side of the welder open all the way up.

 

[Bob Heine]

The one thing I'm trying to decide on is overall height. Right now the top is at 36" which I like as a working height. With the 5 5/8" casters and 2x2 tubing that makes the top of bottom shelf to bottom of top shelf 26 3/8".

My argon bottle with gauges is 28" tall and my Miller 211 needs 27 3/4" for the side to open all the way up.

I can either make the legs 2" longer, put the bottom shelf below bottom braces, or just tilt the bottle to get it in and not have the side of the welder open all the way up.

LSVLance, I would weld the mesh or sheet to the bottom of the braces. The second time that welder cover slams down you'll be sorry you didn't make the extra room. Or maybe it will be the barked knuckles from closing the argon tank valve so close to the top.

I have one of those Nomad fold-up welding tables and I use it sitting down but my three main work benches are three different heights. The 5-foot sink bench in the garage is 41 inches, the 14-foot bench in the garage is 37 inches and all four benches lining the walls in the workshop are 39 inches. I'm about 5' 11" and all three are comfortable for different jobs. The tallest bench is perfect for fussy little jobs because I don't have to bend over to see what I'm working on. I have been surprised at how much I like the 39-inch benches in the workshop.

I would put some different height cardboard boxes on a 32-inch high table and try working at each height. One of them will feel real comfortable and that will be the right height for you.

 

[jalbrecht55]

-I built something similar a few years ago but 30x48”. If you have space I would go to 4’x8’.
-I’m 5’8” and find 36” is about perfect. My table is 37” (built to match some existing benches I had at the time) and usually it’s just too high. More often then not I’m working on something bulky (for example a framework or an exhaust with a lot of bends or say rebuilding a transmission) and it’s just too high.
-I thought about building mine at 30” high with an adjustable leg structure with leveling feet that lifts it up off the casters from 30”-40”. It’s hard to do that and keep things simple but it would be really nice I think.
-You might need more than 6” relief for a stool if you want to sit at the table. Welding while seated is nice, although I did get a flaming weld booger in my lap once. Now I usually stand.
-when you order the table top specify that it be flame/plasma/(or similar) cut. I didn’t and they sheared mine so the last 1” of the table has a roll/bend to it.
-I would put in a drop floor for the gas bottles or consider securing them outboard of the table/structure.

 

[LSVLance]

Thanks guys!! So I got steel quotes from two places, one was plasma cut, the other shear now that I pay attention. The place that shear cut them was significantly less expensive.

Is the roll/bend enough of a deal that I should certainly steer toward the plasma cut?

I've thought about a stool relief as well... Trying to imagine what all I'll do at the bench, this is all new to me...setting everything up from scratch.

I have a drive on 4 post car lift and I've been messing with raising it up and down and testing the "bench" height out to see what I like best. "It depends" is about as good as I can get. For tinkery stuff I like it a bit higher than 36", but for welding, hammering and general abuse type stuff I'd like it a bit lower. Ugh...

 

[jalbrecht55]

Height: “It depends”—Exactly! I should have said 36” is “usually comfortable enough” but it really depends on what you are working on. The steel table is great for oily leaky things so I use it for everything from welding to transmission rebuilds to whatever. Since mine is on wheels and has nothing sticking up it also has been handy for painting and woodworking as well, just put a sheet of wood or cardboard down on top first.

The bend on mine isn’t bad or extremely noticeable, but it’s nice to clamp things to a flat table while welding. And then it would be nice to know it’s flat.

Measured front to back, on the left side of the table the front edge drops off about .020” over the last inch. The back edge drops off .090 over 2.5”.

On the right side the front edge doesn’t drop visually, the back drops about .020 over the last inch.

Good enough for my ammature needs but I’d prefer it to be more flat.

One more consideration. I made mine with 4 legs but no base and no lower crossmembers. This way I can easily roll it over my weld cart and other stuff I store underneath. Half the time I wish the welder was stored in the table like your design, half the time I’m glad it isn’t! I have a small garage, so when I weld on a vehicle there is barely room for my small welding cart, let alone a full welding table.

 

[rattle_snake]

I recently built a similar sized welding table. Didn't use it to store welded or bottle as they don't fit. Mine is 32" tall but can be raised with lift blocks. Haven't felt the need to raise it yet but would have done 34 looking back.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=400967

A sheer is fine and 'should' have a clean edge. I had mine sheered at IMS in phx.
Figure out how to attach the top without distorting it...