Above 1200 Sq/FT Cleaning Up My Shop

[bj383ss]

Congrats Andy on 300 pages. You have an amazing audience. I too quit using Fram filters after reading alot of bad stuff about them. Too bad it is all my grandpa and dad used back in the day. I only use AC/Delco now. And the proof there is a difference. On my LS Camaro when I switched filters I saw almost a 10psi difference in oil pressure across the board.

Bret

 

[jblnut]

Post 6,002 in your thread Andy !!!

I was watching for post 6,000 to come around for a while and I just wasn't fast enough. Kind of like owning a car from new and waiting for it to hit 111,111 miles and you totally forget to look at the ODO and when you do it's 111,112

 

[Ralf99]

Woo hoo - I scored post #6000 without even realising - and it was my first time posting in Andy’s thread. I guess its all in the timing....

 

[jbmatth]

Congrats as others have said Andy, 301 pages now and over 6,000 posts. I'm glad I got on board early or I'd never catch up. I think if you really concentrate you will be able to get the shop clean.

You are making good progress on the purplish car, looking forward to watching a video of it starting up. wink wink

On the Fram discussion, I pretty much use them all the time on my normal cars, cobra, LS engine that are already high mileage. For my diesel and expensive engines (over $1,000 replacement cost) I use AC Delco. So far no issues I know of from Fram filters, ignorance is bliss I guess.

JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy the engine is oh so close now, well done.

That's a nice shot of your shop

Thanks, Steve! I'm on a downhill slide now, just have to be careful to not get in a hurry at this point. It's real easy for me to do. It's getting to where I can think about a punch list.

1 Mount radiator
2 Connect transmission cooler lines
3 Mount alternator and A/C compressor and install belts
4 Mount A/C condenser
5 Reconnect wiring
6 Mount front cowl, stay arms, overflow tank and hoods
7 Make gaskets and mount headlights
8 INSTALL OIL
9 INSTALL WATER
10 INSTALL TRANSMISSION FLUID
11 Reconnect battery
12 Double check all connections
13 Start and idle on jack stands to circulate new transmission
14 Off stands and test drive
15 Install radiator flush and flush radiator
16 Refill with antifreeze

Sweet sixteen! Not on the list is the A/C compressor which does not work. It turns but seems stiff. It blows the fuse, I need to figure out if it's a bad compressor, overfilled, or just a bad clutch. Any suggestions?

If I have time, I also want to cast some new hood latch hooks and a custom air cleaner top, but those are looking more optional.

I think I remember reading somewhere that the gold Fram filters are decent; it's the orange ones at Wal-Mart that are crapola.

I use NAPA Gold filters on the cars I maintain. They're rebranded Wix and <$10 apiece. They also have better filtration efficiency numbers than the newly revamped Mobil 1 filters, which used to be my go-to.

Yeah, they didn't have the orange ones in this size

Good looking bunch of steers, and a great sunset scene of your shop.

Thanks! I like they way they lined up for the buyers. They picked one out (neighbors getting ready to fatten their first steer) and I put some orange paint on him for identification. Very holiday spirited.

Pattern was the sun through trees, not only did I take a picture, I looked too!

Congrats Andy on 300 pages. You have an amazing audience. I too quit using Fram filters after reading alot of bad stuff about them. Too bad it is all my grandpa and dad used back in the day. I only use AC/Delco now. And the proof there is a difference. On my LS Camaro when I switched filters I saw almost a 10psi difference in oil pressure across the board.

Bret

I know they get a lot of bad press. Do you realize I can save over $100 in the life of a car by risking an overhaul?

So tell me about the oil pressure difference. Did you see a 10 psi increase (meaning the new filter is passing oil more freely and must not be filtering as well) or a 10 psi decrease (meaning the new filter is more restrictive and oil is being bypassed, not filtered)?

It's an interesting subject and a lot of emotions and debate takes place. My take is that as long as the solid contaminates are small compared to the oil film thickness in the bearing improving filtration efficiency does not pay you much and may result in longer bypass during startup. I'm still sold on cheap filters, and like your dad and grandfather, have had great success with them.

I'm having fun now!

Post 6,002 in your thread Andy !!!

I was watching for post 6,000 to come around for a while and I just wasn't fast enough. Kind of like owning a car from new and waiting for it to hit 111,111 miles and you totally forget to look at the ODO and when you do it's 111,112

I'm right with you. Back in the old days, with no trip meter, I was an odometer watcher. I even like sequences, like 135, 790. Or 124,421. I took pictures of my first rollover to 100,000 (actually 99,999 to 00,000). My wife would join the fun, making fun of me, and we would usually miss the big event by 1 to 3 miles, as you say. Now it's all gone. My car keeps track of mileage so I don't even use the trip meter. Trip meter in my wife's car is almost to 7,000 without being reset.

The conundrum is, if there are 6,002 posts, the cover page correctly says 6,001 replies, plus the original post. So you were reply 6,001. Still missed the mark.

Rain and shop work today after a sloshy cow feeding experience. I should charge myself for the Dude Ranch experience I get.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Woo hoo - I scored post #6000 without even realising - and it was my first time posting in Andy’s thread. I guess its all in the timing....

And I am suitably impressed by your skill and cunning!

Congrats as others have said Andy, 301 pages now and over 6,000 posts. I'm glad I got on board early or I'd never catch up. I think if you really concentrate you will be able to get the shop clean.

You are making good progress on the purplish car, looking forward to watching a video of it starting up. wink wink

On the Fram discussion, I pretty much use them all the time on my normal cars, cobra, LS engine that are already high mileage. For my diesel and expensive engines (over $1,000 replacement cost) I use AC Delco. So far no issues I know of from Fram filters, ignorance is bliss I guess.

JB

I feel all grown up with 300 pages (depending on browser setting of course) and over 6,000 posts.

Surprisingly the shop is somewhat cleaned up, and I have gained a better appreciation of what is trash, junk, and better stuff. I still like junk. but I am on a mission to get the stuff stored inside the shop minimized. I still have lots of trash and enjoy giving junk to visitors.

As a Mechanical Engineer I would think you could not bring yourself to use Fram filters. Are AC Delco better? What is better? What is the meaning of is?

Have a great day, guys!!

 

[jblnut]

Thanks for asking. I'll give you all my take on filters.

I use literally the least expensive thing I can find on the shelf at the local Mills Fleet Farm for all the things that have license plates on the property. The red tractors get filters from the red tractor store, the green tractors get filters from the green tractor store, the Bobcat stuff gets Bobcat filters and the blue tractor hasn't had an oil change in A WHILE .... which reminds me ...

I've seen the different comparisons in filters in the cutaways of each filter and have read about why one is better than the other and blah blah blah. In the end, the vehicles I drive all have well north of 200k on the clocks and I knowing the original owners of all of them I can guarantee if they could find a cheaper filter than the ones I use, they'd have used that until I got the vehicle.

Some of our tractors are still worth well north of $100k so we use their filters just because, well, it seems like we should.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Thanks for asking. I'll give you all my take on filters.

I use literally the least expensive thing I can find on the shelf at the local Mills Fleet Farm for all the things that have license plates on the property. The red tractors get filters from the red tractor store, the green tractors get filters from the green tractor store, the Bobcat stuff gets Bobcat filters and the blue tractor hasn't had an oil change in A WHILE .... which reminds me ...

I've seen the different comparisons in filters in the cutaways of each filter and have read about why one is better than the other and blah blah blah. In the end, the vehicles I drive all have well north of 200k on the clocks and I knowing the original owners of all of them I can guarantee if they could find a cheaper filter than the ones I use, they'd have used that until I got the vehicle.

Some of our tractors are still worth well north of $100k so we use their filters just because, well, it seems like we should.

You're welcome! And thanks for the response. Sounds like we think alike. Except my Bobcat gets O'Reilly's filters. I can't deal with my local Bobcat dealer. I have called them probably ten times over the years, always leave a message, and never get a return call. So I buy Bobcat parts out of state and have them shipped. I think the local guys have an area rep who is supposed to handle my business and he doesn't have the time for a guy with one piece of equipment.

High dollar equipment pays to use dealer filters in case of warranty work.

I got some of my list ticked off today but added a few more.

1 Mount radiator
2 Connect transmission cooler lines
3 Mount alternator and A/C compressor and install belts
4 Mount A/C condenser
5 Reconnect wiring
6 Mount front cowl, stay arms, overflow tank and hoods
7 Make gaskets and mount headlights
8 INSTALL OIL
9 INSTALL WATER
10 INSTALL TRANSMISSION FLUID
11 Reconnect battery
12 Double check all connections
13 Start and idle on jack stands to circulate new transmission
14 Off stands and test drive
15 Install radiator flush and flush radiator
16 Refill with antifreeze
17 Install spark plugs
18 Install fuel pump

It looks better today

I was shocked to see the condenser mounting bolts. These have been jammed against the pressure containing manifold. That steel on aluminum will corrode through the aluminum eventually. I plan to cut them off. Carefully.

The A/C clutch has been blowing a fuse (we've never had the A/C work) so I checked it today and found it 0 ohms, as in a dead short So I set about to pull the clutch. Not like a Chevy. Made a little tool so I could get the nut in the center off.

Then it took a steering wheel puller.

Here's the coil

I've about decided the compressor is a Sanden 508. Used on equipment and aftermarket A/C kits. Now to find a coil or complete clutch.

That was it for today.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

[1/2 Cup]

Andy now you are really kicking goals.

 

[Grizz1963]

Excellent progress Andy.

Betcha if we were there, you would be letting me cook lunch and Craig pull something apart while Dennis helped you with an extra pair of hands.

I found an old pick axe handle, well, half of one, to be used on my Andy Hammer.

 

[BBChevro]

On the GJ app (and I haven't changed any settings - reading and posting is enough of an achievement for me), Bret's post #6001 is at the top of page 601. (I wish I knew how to do a screenshot).

Whatever the numbers, it's still a great achievement - congratulations Andy, you must be doing something right. [emoji106]


As for the hazzards of welding, I have had my pants on fire a couple of times (despite the common phrase, I wasn't lying).


The purple car is coming along nicely. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[bj383ss]

Good Progress Andy. At least all the nice chrome and shiny parts on top hide the purple engine block.

According to your list if you are following the numbers you are going to test drive it before you install the spark plugs and the fuel pump. Are you going to pull it around with one of the bulls?

Bret

 

[LPete3]

Andy, great progress on the purplish car! When I set up a distributor like yours, I turn the balancer in the correct rotation to 12 degrees before top dead center on the compression stroke and align the "points". This should give you enough spark lead to get it started. Make sure you have battery voltage at the distributor. This is a good thing to check when running, if the power is coming from the "r" side of the starter it will be reduced down to 9 volts when the engine is running. This was done to protect the old points type system. Have a great Saturday!
Lynn

 

[Toothaker]

Good Progress Andy. At least all the nice chrome and shiny parts on top hide the purple engine block.

According to your list if you are following the numbers you are going to test drive it before you install the spark plugs and the fuel pump. Are you going to pull it around with one of the bulls?

Bret

Typical engineer. He needs a Project Manager. [emoji16]

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[dchance]

Andy, Looks like you are making good progress.

Nice to see one going back together, I seem to keep taking parts off.

Dwight

 

[Farmall450]

Yeah, I just can't bring myself to risk a Fram for a buck or two savings on a quality engine when an AC Delco (trucks) or NAPA Gold (tractors) is a hair more. Cheap insurance.

Now, I occasionally use cartridge type FRAM because Farm & Fleet has them in stock (the 450 in my profile picture for instance takes a C136A) but it's a cartridge on a 60 year old tractor that sees single digit hours most years (and gets changed way too often).

 

[shortykorte]

Good Progress Andy. At least all the nice chrome and shiny parts on top hide the purple engine block.

According to your list if you are following the numbers you are going to test drive it before you install the spark plugs and the fuel pump. Are you going to pull it around with one of the bulls?

Bret

Flintstone style. lol


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy now you are really kicking goals.

Thanks, Steve! I'm getting down to the short rows.

Excellent progress Andy.

Betcha if we were there, you would be letting me cook lunch and Craig pull something apart while Dennis helped you with an extra pair of hands.

I found an old pick axe handle, well, half of one, to be used on my Andy Hammer.

I doubt it. It all sounds good, but if you were here I imagine we'd be in the foundry casting brass. But you could cook lunch. If I had Dennis for a few days we'd have the boot cover straight on the 48 Coupe. He'd do it and I'd watch and learn.

Glad you remembered your hammer!

That was a memorable day and a half you were here.

On the GJ app (and I haven't changed any settings - reading and posting is enough of an achievement for me), Bret's post #6001 is at the top of page 601. (I wish I knew how to do a screenshot).

Whatever the numbers, it's still a great achievement - congratulations Andy, you must be doing something right. [emoji106]


As for the hazzards of welding, I have had my pants on fire a couple of times (despite the common phrase, I wasn't lying).


The purple car is coming along nicely. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Thanks for stopping in!

Good Progress Andy. At least all the nice chrome and shiny parts on top hide the purple engine block.

According to your list if you are following the numbers you are going to test drive it before you install the spark plugs and the fuel pump. Are you going to pull it around with one of the bulls?

Bret

Yeah, I had no idea it had a purple block when I started taking it apart. The whole frame is purple. It had a pretty thorough restoration.

Now be kind. Since I didn't skip any numbers I'm adding new tasks on at the end. I have not produced a critical path schedule because I'm a backward farmer and barely can turn on my computer. But you are right, I'm not following the numbers.

Andy, great progress on the purplish car! When I set up a distributor like yours, I turn the balancer in the correct rotation to 12 degrees before top dead center on the compression stroke and align the "points". This should give you enough spark lead to get it started. Make sure you have battery voltage at the distributor. This is a good thing to check when running, if the power is coming from the "r" side of the starter it will be reduced down to 9 volts when the engine is running. This was done to protect the old points type system. Have a great Saturday!
Lynn

Thanks for the tips! Since this distributor has vacuum advance, isn't 12 degrees a little rich? The other post on the solenoid empty.

Typical engineer. He needs a Project Manager. [emoji16]

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Although I admit to being an engineer, I was a pretty decent P3 operator. But small schedules, 1,000 to 1,500 tasks and no manpower loading for me. I was a construction contractor when doing that so they were all stand alone projects. And I drove customer schedulers crazy. They would integrate my schedule into their master schedule and then I would change mine. I didn't care what had happened, I needed to know how much was remaining and would reschedule often to show work to go as accurately as possible. Often that means splitting tasks which were not going to be performed as planned. I didn't like carrying uncompleted tasks which were not being actively executed. If you're bolting down the intake manifold but have to remove a bolt to put on the kickdown bracket I split it into two activities: 1. Bolt all but one manifold bolts. 2. Install kickdown bracket and remaining manifold bolt.

I never was good enough to get all the tasks right before the job started.

Andy, Looks like you are making good progress.

Nice to see one going back together, I seem to keep taking parts off.

Dwight

It's painfully slow. for instance, today I spent an hour putting on the torque converter dust cover. The 1/4-20 bolts wouldn't go in. I tried several, it's a brand new transmission. Decided maybe they were 6 mm for use in newer cars. Nope. Couldn't see good with my trifocals. Finally figured out it was paint in the threads. So I tapped all four out, and the forward ones are half turn and move handle. Very slow but all is well tonight.

Yeah, I just can't bring myself to risk a Fram for a buck or two savings on a quality engine when an AC Delco (trucks) or NAPA Gold (tractors) is a hair more. Cheap insurance.

Now, I occasionally use cartridge type FRAM because Farm & Fleet has them in stock (the 450 in my profile picture for instance takes a C136A) but it's a cartridge on a 60 year old tractor that sees single digit hours most years (and gets changed way too often).

I think I've almost saved enough using Fram filters to rebuild one engine, should they ever fail me.

Flintstone style. lol


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Yabba Dabba Do! You can actually do that in the Show Truck. Or should I say "on".

Thanks for the visits, guys! I get out soon!!

 

[oldironfarmer]

Today was disjointed. Went out to feed and noticed my old cow with the bad eye had died in the lot.

The cows were a little subdued. Before you think me cruel, my good cows all die on the place. I don't put them through the indignity of going to the sale barn. I thought she would die each of the last three winters. But she gave me three more calves. I don't know how old she was, but I'm guessing 16 or so. This old red cow is 14. Not too bad for a 14 year old cow.

I called my son-in-law about 7:00 and he was there in 15 minutes. His backhoe has a lot more traction than an M Farmall.

Family that bought a steer commented what a nice hide the old cow had, a few days ago. I texted him this morning and told him she had died and he could have the hide if he wanted. He surprised me, came this afternoon and was able to get most the hide. He says he home tans.

Back in the shop I got some stuff done. Cut the offensive bolts off the A/C condenser.

Looking more and more complete!

So here's the activity list:

1 Mount radiator
2 Connect transmission cooler lines
3 Mount alternator and A/C compressor and install belts
4 Mount A/C condenser
5 Reconnect wiring
6 Mount front cowl, stay arms, overflow tank and hoods
7 Make gaskets and mount headlights
8 INSTALL OIL
9 INSTALL WATER
10 INSTALL TRANSMISSION FLUID
11 Reconnect battery
12 Double check all connections
13 Start and idle on jack stands to circulate new transmission
14 Off stands and test drive
15 Install radiator flush and flush radiator
16 Refill with antifreeze
17 Install spark plugs
18 Install fuel pump
19 Install torque converter cover
20 Put block drain plugs back in
21 Put front wheels back on
22 Install new A/C clutch coil
23 Install new cooling fan thermostatic control
24 Cut four bolts off condenser

Is it just me or is the list getting longer?

I think I've found all the wires. It may be time to start it tomorrow, even if the sheet metal is not all back on.

Thanks for looking in!

 

[BBChevro]

...
It's painfully slow. for instance, today I spent an hour putting on the torque converter dust cover. The 1/4-20 bolts wouldn't go in. I tried several, it's a brand new transmission. Decided maybe they were 6 mm for use in newer cars. Nope. Couldn't see good with my trifocals. Finally figured out it was paint in the threads. So I tapped all four out, and the forward ones are half turn and move handle. Very slow but all is well tonight...

Hey Andy, I often have trouble starting bolts in awkward places - even if they are going back into the same thread that they came out of.
I find that cussing helps. [emoji1]


If you're slow, then you must never sleep - I'm always amazed at how much you get done. [emoji106]


Sorry to hear about the cow.


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[Grizz1963]

Andy, I certainly feel blessed for meeting you and your team.

Our Road Trip now almost fully documented here http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/205913/grizz-craig-dennis-2018-humdinger.

Just Craig that needs to do a final post when his day job allows him the time to,create a summary.

And for all the others who have been reaching out, offering friendship, food, laughter and an opportunity to share in their lives over the last four years.

Whether on the Internet, at their homes and real lives, or those that have made the effort to come here to my home Tom visit or stay.

I forgot that Dennis not only would have, but wanted to address the trunk of your Chevy. Yes, you,could have set him off like a wind up toy.

Craig....... you could have let him loose in your office, programming and setting axis on your 3D equipment


Anyway, absolutely agree on the fact that the time, though desperately short was absolutely awesome.


Underseal this morning early on the truck and coat number one of the inner floors paint, and then hopefully the front and rear suspensions replaced on my Blazer.

 

[bj383ss]

Man Andy. I know its a cow but that is sad. I seem to have a soft heart for nearly all animals except snakes. They can all burn.

Maybe your list did get longer but then you have completed somethings on the list. As far as sheet metal that is totally unnecessary for first start and the test drive.


Bret

 

[oldironfarmer]

Hey Andy, I often have trouble starting bolts in awkward places - even if they are going back into the same thread that they came out of.
I find that cussing helps. [emoji1]

If you're slow, then you must never sleep - I'm always amazed at how much you get done. [emoji106]

Sorry to hear about the cow.

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Starting bolts in awkward places is bad enough when you know the bolt came out. In this case I made about six trips under the car to get the bolts in while making sure I did not strip the threads in the transmission housing. At first I was trying it with the sheet metal held with one hand before I realized it wasn't just me. If I'd had a schedule to meet it (or was working on a fixed rate) it would have been aggravating. But the focus is on getting it done well (not perfect).

Andy, I certainly feel blessed for meeting you and your team.

Our Road Trip now almost fully documented here http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/205913/grizz-craig-dennis-2018-humdinger.

Just Craig that needs to do a final post when his day job allows him the time to,create a summary.

And for all the others who have been reaching out, offering friendship, food, laughter and an opportunity to share in their lives over the last four years.

Whether on the Internet, at their homes and real lives, or those that have made the effort to come here to my home Tom visit or stay.

I forgot that Dennis not only would have, but wanted to address the trunk of your Chevy. Yes, you,could have set him off like a wind up toy.

Craig....... you could have let him loose in your office, programming and setting axis on your 3D equipment


Anyway, absolutely agree on the fact that the time, though desperately short was absolutely awesome.


Underseal this morning early on the truck and coat number one of the inner floors paint, and then hopefully the front and rear suspensions replaced on my Blazer.

If Dennis lived closer we'd have his station finished, too.

I'm looking forward to the next trip!

Keep up the Blazing progress!

Man Andy. I know its a cow but that is sad. I seem to have a soft heart for nearly all animals except snakes. They can all burn.

Maybe your list did get longer but then you have completed somethings on the list. As far as sheet metal that is totally unnecessary for first start and the test drive.


Bret

I'm very soft hearted. But it's a fact animals and plants get old and die. For various reasons. Even though the cattle are kept to be food, they get well cared for compared to their natural existence. The cows and bull are pretty safe from predators, in the wild they get old and slow and a predator gets them down and kills them. Here they get access to food winter and summer rather than starving down through the winter as would be natural. This old cow was 105 in human years and still getting around. Steers are a different lot. Cattle, like dogs, are addicted to food and will consume as much as they can against lean times ahead. The steers get on a healthy smorgasbord and eat and drink and make merriment until the day the lights painlessly go out. I say painlessly because adrenaline from stress will make meat tough. A cow run over by a truck is only suitable for hamburger because of the adrenaline. So they need to be killed in a low stress environment despite the fear mongering to the contrary.

I'd rather be a steer and have a life filled with plenty! Let the good times roll!!

I understand on the sheet metal, but the front fenders need the cowl and stay rods or a wind might damage them. Hoods are optional for sure.

My list always gets longer because it becomes a punch list of smaller and smaller tasks which need not be forgotten, like the block drain plugs.

I trust everyone will have a good Sunday.

 

[bolensboneyard]

Andy, shame they have to go at all. Should have a nice pair of chaps made out of her hide. Good protection and fond memories.

 

[shortykorte]

I take it the cow was dairy? Maybe your to-do list was to much for her to handle. lol


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[Farmall450]

Man Andy. I know its a cow but that is sad. I seem to have a soft heart for nearly all animals except snakes. They can all burn.

Maybe your list did get longer but then you have completed somethings on the list. As far as sheet metal that is totally unnecessary for first start and the test drive.


Bret

Agreed on the snakes.

I think letting that old cow peacefully die at Andy's is a lot better than how most end their lives.

 

[Farmall450]

smorgasbord

That's a new one.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: I know you sort of hide your feelings about the cows, but i'm guessing when they pass or leave your farm you are a bit sad. sorry for your loss!!

the engine is looking great. just curious how you cut the bolts off? by hand or what power tool did you manage to get into what might have been a fairly tight space?

your cow had an amazing life i'm sure living on your farm and hearing you tell it stories all the time.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy, shame they have to go at all. Should have a nice pair of chaps made out of her hide. Good protection and fond memories.

It is a shame. I don't know what he will do with the hide. Would be nice to have some rawhide though, I need to ask him.

I take it the cow was dairy? Maybe your to-do list was to much for her to handle. lol

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No, they're all beef cattle. She was just a momma cow and did give lots of milk. I don't let them in the shop. I know they'd like to help but they are not very good at cleaning up their messes. So they haven't seen my list.

Agreed on the snakes.

I think letting that old cow peacefully die at Andy's is a lot better than how most end their lives.

smorgasbord

That's a new one.

Don't know what else to call it when you get all you can eat, all the time.

Andy: I know you sort of hide your feelings about the cows, but i'm guessing when they pass or leave your farm you are a bit sad. sorry for your loss!!

the engine is looking great. just curious how you cut the bolts off? by hand or what power tool did you manage to get into what might have been a fairly tight space?

your cow had an amazing life i'm sure living on your farm and hearing you tell it stories all the time.

Some of the pain of taking them to the sale barn is reduced by the check. But thank you.

I cut the bolts with a right angle grinder with a 1/16" cutoff wheel. I had to avoid cutting into the aluminum pipe as it is under pressure with R-134A.

I tell them stories and sing to them, but they don't listen. Put out the feed and back away. They have their own society and don't need skinny little thinks that walk on their hind legs. 185# like me is week old weight to them. I'm not much.

Thanks for the visits, guys!

 

[oldironfarmer]

Things went slowly today. I had removed the block drain plugs and thought I'd put them back in after the engine was in the car. It's tight. The original plugs were allen head pipe plugs, and on the passenger side it's so close to the header an allen wrench would not fit. Fingertip work and I could not get it started without loosening the header. I put in a hex head plug.

That was almost today's work!

I also finished lining up the cowl and put in more bolts. It's about complete. And started on the hood latches. But the big task of the day was to attempt to start the engine. No start, and traced it down to no spark. It cranks well but with the new urethane motor mounts I realized there is no engine ground. The starter has to be running through the drive shaft, electrically.

1 Mount radiator
2 Connect transmission cooler lines
3 Mount alternator and A/C compressor and install belts
4 Mount A/C condenser
5 Reconnect wiring
6 Mount front cowl, stay arms, overflow tank and hoods
7 Make gaskets and mount headlights
8 INSTALL OIL
9 INSTALL WATER
10 INSTALL TRANSMISSION FLUID
11 Reconnect battery
12 Double check all connections
13 Start and idle on jack stands to circulate new transmission
14 Off stands and test drive
15 Install radiator flush and flush radiator
16 Refill with antifreeze
17 Install spark plugs
18 Install fuel pump
19 Install torque converter cover
20 Put block drain plugs back in
21 Put front wheels back on
22 Install new A/C clutch coil
23 Install new cooling fan thermostatic control
24 Cut four bolts off condenser
25 Fab new hood latch receivers
26 Install engine ground strap
27 Troubleshoot HEI (if ground strap does not correct problem)

There is 12v at the distributor and at the yellow wire leaving the cap to the body. The three wire connector from the cap to the distributor was broken and one connector was burned so the wires are plugged in individually now. Suggestions appreciated. I was checking for spark by plugging one wire into an old spark plug and remote cranking the engine.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

[LPete3]

Good morning, Andy,

Sorry to hear about your cow, but it sounds like she had a good, long life on your farm. I am also bummed that the purplish car didn't start right up for you.

Breaking down what the distributor needs to work is :

Make sure the rotor turns when turning the engine over, I'm sure this is working as you had to move things around to get the oil pump drive shaft to line up.

Good ground from the dist. body to the block through the dist. hold down clamp. I have run a jumper wire from a good ground point (battery) to the body of the dist to test for lack of ground.

Need 12 volts at the bat terminal on the cap and has to have voltage when cranking. The yellow wire you are describing going into the body is probably hooked to a tachometer.

Check the bottom of the cap, there should be a button in the center that makes contact with the rotor.

The three wires that you said are not in their connector and one burned might be part of the issue. I'm sure you have them in their correct location.

The next thing that will cause no spark at all is a bad module. The module is screwed down to the body of the distributor inside the cap. It has wires plugged into both ends and there is a condenser in there as well. There is a test for it but I would have to look for it. It has been a long time, parts stores used to be able to test them.

The coil would be the last thing I can think of to cause no spark. There is a way to test that as well.

To answer your question about the 12 degrees of initial advance, it isn't too much and should be very close to what chevy calls for for setting base timing.

I hope this helps!

Lynn

 

[xtremek]

Holy cow, that is tight for the freeze plug. And is it me, or is the list growing rapidly?

 

[Guster]

Bummer about the old cow. They don't get much older and sounds like she had a good run.

Nice work. Purple car is coming together nicely. Also think the ground strap will solve the biggest issues and tracking down the rest will get easier from that point on.

Good luck.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Good morning, Andy,

Sorry to hear about your cow, but it sounds like she had a good, long life on your farm. I am also bummed that the purplish car didn't start right up for you.

Losing a cow now and again is part of farm life. I would have been happier had the car started

Breaking down what the distributor needs to work is :

Make sure the rotor turns when turning the engine over, I'm sure this is working as you had to move things around to get the oil pump drive shaft to line up.

Yes, distributor is seated and rotor turns

Good ground from the dist. body to the block through the dist. hold down clamp. I have run a jumper wire from a good ground point (battery) to the body of the dist to test for lack of ground.

Good to know

Need 12 volts at the bat terminal on the cap and has to have voltage when cranking. The yellow wire you are describing going into the body is probably hooked to a tachometer.

The yellow wire was one of the three going from the distributor body to the connector. The tachometer connection is open.

Check the bottom of the cap, there should be a button in the center that makes contact with the rotor.

The three wires that you said are not in their connector and one burned might be part of the issue. I'm sure you have them in their correct location.

Inside of the cap looked good. Contact seems ok. The three wires are yellow, brown, and red. I checked another engine with similar distributor and it had the same colors so I matched them. Yellow went to the contact which is common to the tachometer connection. Brown to a ground in the middle, and red to a common with the power lead in.

The next thing that will cause no spark at all is a bad module. The module is screwed down to the body of the distributor inside the cap. It has wires plugged into both ends and there is a condenser in there as well. There is a test for it but I would have to look for it. It has been a long time, parts stores used to be able to test them.

The coil would be the last thing I can think of to cause no spark. There is a way to test that as well.

Before I put a ground ******** I tried to start one more time this morning. Started right up. I had it on the charger all night so I'm guessing maybe I had low voltage while cranking. That would be a definite disadvantage to a point system if that was the problem. With points if you can get it to roll over it will start. Maybe I learned something.

To answer your question about the 12 degrees of initial advance, it isn't too much and should be very close to what chevy calls for for setting base timing.

I hope this helps!

Lynn

Thanks for spending all the time on your excellent post! I had two friends stop by, they're into racing, and the one kept insisting 12 degrees until his brother noticed the vacuum advance on the distributor and said 6 should be plenty. I set it at 4 and it accelerates nicely, I haven't driven it yet.

Holy cow, that is tight for the freeze plug. And is it me, or is the list growing rapidly?

It was the hex plug in the drain, not the freeze plug. I would never have gotten the freeze plug in without pulling the header completely off. It was still tight!

The list is growing rapidly. I may have a new career.

Bummer about the old cow. They don't get much older and sounds like she had a good run.

Nice work. Purple car is coming together nicely. Also think the ground strap will solve the biggest issues and tracking down the rest will get easier from that point on.

Good luck.

She had a good run. Even though it started it's getting the ground strap.

Thanks for stopping by, great comments!

 

[Mlowery]

There are two, sometimes three, small screws that holds the coil cover on top of the cap. Remove the coil cover to view the wires going to the coil. If you have burnt something, one of these may be burnt. You can now see the battery/ignition wire goes directly to the coil and the smaller red wire of the three wire plug goes directly to the module. Viewed from the drivers side these will be the right. The left two, if you have two, will be the module trigger wire/tach (think wire coming off the coil going to the points). The outside one will go to a tach. You will see these are connected together under the cover. No tach, I can't imagine what will be plugged into this one. The inside or the left one in the three plug will go to the module and have a jumper to the condenser. (just like points) The center one in the three wire is ground. This grounds with the same screw that grounds the condenser. I have seen the connecter under the coil cover missing. In a bad ground condition I have seen this burn wires. This connection is just a tab that runs under the coil. If any of these wires are smoked you have probably smoked the module. The picture in post 6019, I could see nothing going to the firewall.

I am with Lloyd on 8-12 initial timing.

 

[oldironfarmer]

First thing this morning I decided to make a ground strap. I've got lots of welding cable and connectors. Look what I found in the pile from the last auction!

As I just said, the car fired right off this morning. Some things just have to rest overnight. I poured gas down the carburetor to get it primed and it would run two seconds and die. After several tries I tried adding gas to the gas tank. Made a big difference. I did drive it in there.

It clattered pretty bad. I was concerned it had sat for so long there might be a collapsed lifter. Or two. Now that it's had a little run, and the transmission got warm so the fluid has been topped off, I pulled the rocker arm covers to adjust the valves.

Plenty of room.

I also got the driver's side hood latch tacked and fitted. It's the rusty piece just inside the cowl. The hood closes nicely against the notch in the angle iron.

Now it needs tabs for the overflow tank.

Work list has completed items bold, if you missed that.

1 Mount radiator
2 Connect transmission cooler lines
3 Mount alternator and A/C compressor and install belts
4 Mount A/C condenser
5 Reconnect wiring
6 Mount front cowl, stay arms, overflow tank and hoods
7 Make gaskets and mount headlights
8 INSTALL OIL
9 INSTALL WATER
10 INSTALL TRANSMISSION FLUID
11 Reconnect battery
12 Double check all connections
13 Start and idle on jack stands to circulate new transmission
14 Off stands and test drive
15 Install radiator flush and flush radiator
16 Refill with antifreeze
17 Install spark plugs
18 Install fuel pump
19 Install torque converter cover
20 Put block drain plugs back in
21 Put front wheels back on
22 Install new A/C clutch coil
23 Install new cooling fan thermostatic control
24 Cut four bolts off condenser
25 Fab new hood latch receivers
26 Install engine ground strap
27 Troubleshoot HEI (if ground strap does not correct problem)
28 Adjust valves
29 Revise and install new throttle and TV Control cable mount

The throttle and TV Control cable engine mount bracket was not right. I found a universal one online for $8.95 delivered. It came today and got installed. But not before some cutting and welding to make it fit. Still saved a lot of time, and the unwelded part is chrome plated.

That's it for today. It should make a test drive tomorrow. Then just waiting on the clutch coil and fan thermostat control. The old one was disconnected, and a whole new kit was $14 so not worth trouble shooting at this point.

Thanks for stopping by! I'll refill the Coke machine.

 

[Mlowery]

Wow, if I hadn't spent so much time typing, I would have known you got it started. Good deal.

 

[oldironfarmer]

There are two, sometimes three, small screws that holds the coil cover on top of the cap. Remove the coil cover to view the wires going to the coil. If you have burnt something, one of these may be burnt. You can now see the battery/ignition wire goes directly to the coil and the smaller red wire of the three wire plug goes directly to the module. Viewed from the drivers side these will be the right. The left two, if you have two, will be the module trigger wire/tach (think wire coming off the coil going to the points). The outside one will go to a tach. You will see these are connected together under the cover. No tach, I can't imagine what will be plugged into this one. The inside or the left one in the three plug will go to the module and have a jumper to the condenser. (just like points) The center one in the three wire is ground. This grounds with the same screw that grounds the condenser. I have seen the connecter under the coil cover missing. In a bad ground condition I have seen this burn wires. This connection is just a tab that runs under the coil. If any of these wires are smoked you have probably smoked the module. The picture in post 6019, I could see nothing going to the firewall.

I am with Lloyd on 8-12 initial timing.

Thanks for the additional information! I had pulled off the cover and everything was nice and clean inside. I guess the burned connector was just loose and got hot. It was running that way. I tightened it up.

You've convinced me to get the ground on before I try to start it again.

You can see the red wire disappearing under the distributor. That comes through the firewall on the other side of the distributor. It daisy chains to the choke power tab.

Thanks for the information and observations!

Although this is the first one of these I've messed with, I have another 350 on a stand with this distributor, and the Blue car came with one the guy said he vcouldn't get to work. It's brand new, installed once, and the car has points. So I have a spare. Guess I'll check the Blue car for engine ground.

Thanks again!

 

[Farmall450]

I hear the driveshaft is the best ground.

Bearings love it!

All kidding aside, glad to see it up and running.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Wow, if I hadn't spent so much time typing, I would have known you got it started. Good deal.

Hey! Good information I needed to know anyway. I'm a decent points and condenser guy, and although these are outdated now I need to be up to speed on them.

Twenty years ago an old guy had the hood of his Ford pickup up after church. Went over to see if I could help. "No, my brain is just tired". I looked. He had two Ford ignition modules. He said they get tired, and when one quite he switches to the other. He had the spare tied on with real baling wire. I suspect his brains were getting tired of having no good ground and the static electricity would dissipate before it built up in the spare.

I couldn't help him.

Glad to have you on the ER team!