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Above 1200 Sq/FT Cleaning Up My Shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

xtremek

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Apr 13, 2012
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St. Johns, Mi
That was really nice of JB to share his slab of steel, but I'm guessing it all goes around where your at. It seems to be the way of good people.
 
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oldironfarmer

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Jun 25, 2016
Messages
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Location
Terlton, Oklahoma
Andy that is one fantastic piece of steel plate, well done JB:thumbup:

Don't worry we wont let you forget about the oil pump drive shaft but we all make mistakes as well.

Thanks, Steve! I've had my current 2 ft by 4 ft welding table since 1972. Made it out of salvaged 1/4". It has been suitable but sagged i my fire so since 1990 it has not been flat. I've been looking for some 3/4" but hadn't found any. The 1" will be nice when I'm hammering on the vise.

Nice piece of plate Andy. [emoji106]

I've been looking for a suitable piece for quite a while. I'm quite adaptable regarding the dimensions, but fairly picky about price (read as "free" [emoji1] ).

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

JB made me a deal I couldn't turn down. It is hard to find an intermediate size. I just happened to consult JB on the purple car issues and he mentioned he had a 1" plate 4 ft by 4 ft. I offered to cut it for him.:bounce:

Steel welding tables are great.

My 1/2 inch 1200mm x 600mm piece came from Germany

The table frame was left behind by the previous owner of my previous house.

Looks like JB grew out of his shirt

That's a nice size, we wish ours were a little bigger, but most stuff you weld on the table is relatively small. My table gets a lot of use so it doesn't get junk stored on it.:lol_hitti

JB is just too muscled up to wear normal shirts. I was afraid he was going to turn my table over.

My quick steel weight calculation is 3.4 lbs per sq in per ft. It is easy to remember and use. My table is 24.4 inches wide so 24.4 times 1 inches thick means it is 24.4 square inches. 3.4 times 24.4 equals 82.96 so it weighs 82.96 lbs per ft. Its 51 inches long so that's 4.25 ft, times 82.96 is 352.58. So my table top weighs 353 lbs. If you use 0.284 lbs per cubic inch it calculates to 353.4 lbs. I've used 3.4 (instead of 3.408) for many years with confidence. Not that you asked. It's better than guessing when you're getting ready to pick something up.

Thanks for the visits, guys!
 
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oldironfarmer

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Terlton, Oklahoma
That was really nice of JB to share his slab of steel, but I'm guessing it all goes around where your at. It seems to be the way of good people.

JB is one fine guy, I can tell you. (He brings me aluminum if I say nice things)

It does go around, not sure it always comes around...

Actually people always do much more for me than I do for them, so I'm always in debt.

Glad to see that you did not suffer a major setback with the oil pump.

Dwight

Thanks for bringing that up.:lol_hitti

I didn't check all the rods, but I feel very very good at seeing the one rod clean.

I did have some really good news today. I didn't assemble any small blocks without the oil drive shaft. I'm on a roll:beer:

No car work today. It's setting with no water in after being flushed waiting on a temperature switch for the fan relay. That arrived today, along with the top hat.:thumbup:

Instead I worked on a winch. When my Zumba teacher's husband hauled the 48 Coupe home for me his winch screwed up. The line jumped the spool and became wedged in the housing. I told him I would fix it but had not and he was coming today to change tires so I wanted it to be ready for him.

He had also lost the knob to pull and twist to get free wheel mode. I made one of those, out of the aluminum shaft I cut up for angled washers the other day. It was the second aluminum item I ever sand cast. Turned it, drilled, tapped, cut it off, then used the mill to form the ears.

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It took more time to measure it and determine how long the ears should be to disengage when pulled out but fully engaged when let in than it did to machine it. Came out so

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He's a racer so I figured a billet design would be fitting.

Two hours to disassemble and reassemble the winch, an hour to design the knob and an hour to turn and mill it. Took my wife to town for lunch at 3:00 and the day is shot.:) But it was a good day. Didn't screw up any engines today.:thumbup:

Have a cold pop on me!:bowdown:
 

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Toothaker

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Nov 25, 2016
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Location
Wichita, Kansas
Nice job on the billet knob, Andy!

Thank you for the steel weight calculator. I'd thought there must be something like that, but hadn't ever come across it. And thanks for the heads up on the transfer punch set, too. I bought a set from HF not long after you mentioned it in this thread, and I've used them twice, including once today.
 
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oldironfarmer

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Nice job on the billet knob, Andy!

Thank you for the steel weight calculator. I'd thought there must be something like that, but hadn't ever come across it. And thanks for the heads up on the transfer punch set, too. I bought a set from HF not long after you mentioned it in this thread, and I've used them twice, including once today.

Thanks, Mick!

Funny when you tell someone 3.4#/sq in/ft it sounds over complicated. But you figure square inches and you have #/ft. Go figure, literally! Glad you find it useful!:bounce:

Transfer punches used to be very expensive, so I made a 1/4" and a 3/8". The full set is so much better because if you're copying the holes in maybe a thermostat housing, the holes are slightly oversize so a close fit is better.

I see your thread has taken off toward the stratosphere.:thumbup:

Nice work on the winch Andy. [emoji106]

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Thanks, Mark!

Looks good Andy.

Thank you, Bobby!

I appreciate you guys stopping in. Nobody noticed I swept.:headscrat I'll refill the Coke machine.
 

Guster

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Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
1,543
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Nice knob Andy! How is it retained?

Great score on the steel plate too. Will make a very nice fabricating bench top. Mine is only 1/2" thick. Part of me wishes it was thicker, another is very glad it wasn't. :)
 
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oldironfarmer

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Terlton, Oklahoma
Nice knob Andy! How is it retained?

Great score on the steel plate too. Will make a very nice fabricating bench top. Mine is only 1/2" thick. Part of me wishes it was thicker, another is very glad it wasn't. :)

Thanks!

It fits on a rod with a M6 1.0 thread. Fortunately I had a tap in the box of taps I got from the closed pawn shop. I think the original had a long nut with a flanged screw driver head going through the knob. It came out and was lost so the knob would not work (you have to pull the rod to disengage) then he lost the knob. I just threaded the knob and the bolt has about six threads in the knob. I suggested he put thread lock on the threads which he said he would do. When he comes back for another knob I'll put it on.:lol_hitti

I've lived 45 years with a 1/4" top. Nicely I might add. We would both have preferred 3/4" but I think I can get away without bracing the legs. But I do want to put a stinger hanger on each leg and probably a cross bar to hang clamps on. JB said he was putting a shelf on his. That might or might not be a good idea for me. More places to lose tools.

I'm thinking I need another vise for the heavy table, and may set it up to hold some sheet metal working tools. They need a stable base and can be stored most of the time.

Glad to have you stop by!
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Andy: great work fixing the winch!!

just curious since the 1 inch plate weighed about 700 pounds did JB load it with a fork lift or do tell? also how did you cut it. I had a few 3/4 inch 63 inch long and 23 inch pieces of plate I was going to build a couple welding tables and was about ready to when my landlord informed me of his pending divorce. I posted them up on Craigs for what I thought was a reasonable price and 2 of the 4 buyers drove over 4 hours to pick up a piece so guessing good old steel plate is fairly expensive or not easily found in smaller pieces.

good luck on the bench build!!
 
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oldironfarmer

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The scrap yard loaded them for JB.

I just cut it with a torch. My plasma torch only goes to 5/8" and would have been pretty rough at 1".

Your 3/4" plate would have brought at least $0.30 per pound and probably $0.50. At 300# they should have brought $100 to $150. $200 would not have been out of line if they had straight sides and were in good shape.
 

LPete3

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Jun 2, 2010
Messages
30
Location
Locust Grove, Va
Andy,

You are welcome for the information on the distributor. It is the least I could do based on what I have learned by reading your thread. I'm glad it troubleshot itself overnight. It is great when things work that way.

Congrats on two days of not not putting in an oil pump driveshaft!

The metal plate will make a nice solid table. Nice work on the winch.

Lynn
 
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oldironfarmer

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Location
Terlton, Oklahoma
Andy,

You are welcome for the information on the distributor. It is the least I could do based on what I have learned by reading your thread. I'm glad it troubleshot itself overnight. It is great when things work that way.

Congrats on two days of not not putting in an oil pump driveshaft!

The metal plate will make a nice solid table. Nice work on the winch.

Lynn

Since I don't have a timing light I learned something else about my distributor. I grabbed the top to give it a little more advance and it killed the engine. That had happened before but I didn't think the two actions were related. This was along the road while JB was with me. I restarted it and he killed it that way. Hmmm. Is that normal?

TDC happens to be with the block on top of the distributor precisely parallel with the firewall (which is flat aluminum plate) so I know advance by doubling the angle of the distributor with the firewall. That's convenient.:thumbup:

I have now made it three days without forgetting to put the oil pump shaft in a SBC. I'm just a pretty good mechanic!:lol_hitti

Thanks for stopping by!
 

jbmatth

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Jun 3, 2013
Messages
5,684
Location
Northern Ok.
All,
As Andy mentioned I made a quick trip over to get some help splitting the table top, drop off some aluminum (which I forgot sadly, but it isn't going anywhere soon so I'll take it by next time), tinker on the purplish car, and even ended up forging a knife shaped piece of metal. Andy is a swell guy I tell you what, here he is cutting the plate:
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When I made it home the girls hadn't gotten back yet so I started cleaning and welding on it:
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I've added a bit more steel since the photo for a shelf and mounted a vise but it'll be a hefty table. The legs are left over 3" x 5" x .25" (75mm x 125mm x 6.25mm)tubing, the total weight as is now is 510.77 lbs (231 kg) without the vise.

Here is the knife shaped piece of metal:
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Andy taught me a lot about forging I didn't know and I'm glad to have learned a lot I hadn't known in the previously.

I didn't get any photos but did take a little ride in the purplish car which was a blast and will soon be a very fun car for his family to drive around in.

All in all a very fun day with lots of learning and joking, the cherry coke was delicious as well.

JB
 

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Toothaker

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Wichita, Kansas
JB, Andy mentioned how the circle, or semi-circle, in the middle was going to be dealt with somehow. What did you actually do? Or is your half the half without the center cut?

That welding table looks awesome, but it makes my back hurt just looking at it.:lol_hitti
 

jbmatth

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JB, Andy mentioned how the circle, or semi-circle, in the middle was going to be dealt with somehow. What did you actually do? Or is your half the half without the center cut?

That welding table looks awesome, but it makes my back hurt just looking at it.:lol_hitti

Mick,
My half had the half circle as well, nice of them to place the circle in the center of the plate huh. I welded it from the top side then ground the weld smooth as I was taking the mill scale off. Not a full penetration weld by any means but I don't think I'll really worry about it.

It hurts my back too, that is why I use other means of lifting, jacks, jack stands, cherry picker, etc. I used to be into powerlifting and could lift my fair share of heavy stuff, then herniated two discs in my lower back from running of all things. About that same time I started using machines/tools to move things when at all possible.

JB
 

drivesitfar

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Andy: nice work cutting that 1 inch steel plate in half so you and JB could each have a nice welding table. also sounds like the both of you had a great day together.

speaking of making a knife I think you might recall that my son in law gave me this knife a friend of his made out of an old RR spike. I probably have 100 old RR spikes here and there along with old files that one day I'll try to shape into knives for fun.

since you have an old CABOOSE in your front yard i'm guessing you might have a bucket or two of old RR spikes?

hope you had a great day!!
 

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oldironfarmer

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Terlton, Oklahoma
All,
As Andy mentioned I made a quick trip over to get some help splitting the table top, drop off some aluminum (which I forgot sadly, but it isn't going anywhere soon so I'll take it by next time), tinker on the purplish car, and even ended up forging a knife shaped piece of metal. Andy is a swell guy I tell you what, here he is cutting the plate:
attachment.php


When I made it home the girls hadn't gotten back yet so I started cleaning and welding on it:
attachment.php


I've added a bit more steel since the photo for a shelf and mounted a vise but it'll be a hefty table. The legs are left over 3" x 5" x .25" (75mm x 125mm x 6.25mm)tubing, the total weight as is now is 510.77 lbs (231 kg) without the vise.

Here is the knife shaped piece of metal:
attachment.php


Andy taught me a lot about forging I didn't know and I'm glad to have learned a lot I hadn't known in the previously.

I didn't get any photos but did take a little ride in the purplish car which was a blast and will soon be a very fun car for his family to drive around in.

All in all a very fun day with lots of learning and joking, the cherry coke was delicious as well.

JB

Come back anytime JB, I had a great day!

But I think you got the better looking half of the plate.:mad:

As JB said, he forged the knife blank out of a 3/4" piece of sucker rod. We also quenched and tempered it. He'll grind it from there and put a handle on it.

JB, Andy mentioned how the circle, or semi-circle, in the middle was going to be dealt with somehow. What did you actually do? Or is your half the half without the center cut?

That welding table looks awesome, but it makes my back hurt just looking at it.:lol_hitti

We think they were making an insert plate which has nozzles for a large storage tank. They probably messed up the layout and had to start over. Their pain our gain.

I'll just weld up the circle cut on the top side of my piece. It does not need to be a full penetration weld for a table top.

I haven't tried to move my half yet. I think it's important to let old steel season in a new location.

:lol_hitti

Mick,
My half had the half circle as well, nice of them to place the circle in the center of the plate huh. I welded it from the top side then ground the weld smooth as I was taking the mill scale off. Not a full penetration weld by any means but I don't think I'll really worry about it.

It hurts my back too, that is why I use other means of lifting, jacks, jack stands, cherry picker, etc. I used to be into powerlifting and could lift my fair share of heavy stuff, then herniated two discs in my lower back from running of all things. About that same time I started using machines/tools to move things when at all possible.

JB

Wow! That looks great, JB! How did you sneak out with the better half?

I'm looking forward to having a vice I can pound on without shaking the wall. My old table is pretty light but it still takes a lot of pounding.

attachment.php


That's the hood latch/overflow tank/fan relay mounting bracket I made today for the purplish car.

If you don't have a flap on your welding hood, please look at mine. That's an old piece of soft glove glued to the inside of the hood. It effectively blocks UV damage from your throat and is never in the way. I highly recommend it. Repeated UV damage to your throat can result in skin cancer.

Andy: nice work cutting that 1 inch steel plate in half so you and JB could each have a nice welding table. also sounds like the both of you had a great day together.

speaking of making a knife I think you might recall that my son in law gave me this knife a friend of his made out of an old RR spike. I probably have 100 old RR spikes here and there along with old files that one day I'll try to shape into knives for fun.

since you have an old CABOOSE in your front yard i'm guessing you might have a bucket or two of old RR spikes?

hope you had a great day!!

Thanks, Drives!

I've got spikes. However the railroad is particular about you stealing their equipment. Leftover and bent spikes laying along the tracks belong to the railroad. I only buy spikes.

Nice knife! Here's one a friend made for me. It was his primary business and he gave it to me for hosting a blacksmith organization meeting at my place.

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This one is heat treated and is a good knife. They are pretty quick to make with a trip hammer.

If you look at the head of spikes you'll see some of them have HC on them. That's a cryptic code for High Carbon. The high carbon spikes will harden with heat treatment, the common ones don't usually harden.

Thanks for the visits, guys.

I got a surprise from the big brown truck today.

attachment.php


Anything from Speedway is worth getting.

This was the new cast rocker covers I ordered for the purplish car in an attempt to get the rocker covers to seal. And they look nice. I thought about making them, but not for the price.

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oldironfarmer

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Terlton, Oklahoma
Short update for today.

First tackled the leaking transmission dipstick. The small top hat is the one I ordered. No. The large one came with the transmission.

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The large one fits the tube nicely, very tight. But there is no way it will go into the transmission. At least not in an hour.

Careful measuring and comparing the O-ring that leaked it appears to be a 14 mm Id with 2-1/2 mm thick ring. Searching for a slightly larger one, it finally hit me that a smaller one, 13 mm with 3 mm thick ring was indeed larger because when it is stretched to get over the tube it is still close to 3 mm thick. It was very snug going in so I'm optimistic.

Then tackled the temperature sender from the new fan control. It is under the alternator and hard to get to. But the alternator is a real pain in the quiet part so I got it put in.

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Then got on the hood latch/universal mounting bracket. It's painted.

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Here's a sample of my paint can markings. Bought 11 May 15, first opened 14 January 2016. It is almost empty.

Also finished draining the radiator. There's really no room to pull the lower radiator hose and I confirmed when I had it out that there is no drain ****. I drained it with a give away Harbor Freight manual pump. Suction line down the radiator hose.

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The thing works very well.

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Thanks for looking in.:thumbup:
 

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oldironfarmer

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Terlton, Oklahoma
I meant to update my purple car punch list:

1 Mount radiator
2 Connect transmission cooler lines
3 Mount alternator and A/C compressor and install belts
4 Mount A/C condenser
5 Reconnect wiring
6 Mount front cowl, stay arms,
overflow tank and hoods
7 Make gaskets and mount headlights
8 INSTALL OIL
9 INSTALL WATER
10 INSTALL TRANSMISSION FLUID
11 Reconnect battery
12 Double check all connections
13 Start and idle on jack stands to circulate new transmission
14 Off stands and test drive
15 Install radiator flush and flush radiator

16 Refill with antifreeze
17 Install spark plugs
18 Install fuel pump

19 Install torque converter cover
20 Put block drain plugs back in
21 Put front wheels back on

22 Install new A/C clutch coil
23 Install new cooling fan thermostatic control
24 Cut four bolts off condenser
25 Fab new hoo
d latch receivers
26 Install engine ground strap
27 Troubleshoot HEI (if ground strap does not correct problem)
28 Adjust valves
29 Revise and install new throttle and TV Control cable mount
30 fix transmission leak

31 Replace passenger side collector gasket (new one blew out)
 
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oldironfarmer

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Great progress Andy.

The list is getting shorter and I luv those rocker covers:thumbup:

Thanks, Steve! I always appreciate your comments. Hope the health is holding!

I have never purchased things like the rocker covers for a car. Always repaired and made do. It is hard to turn loose of the money. But I'm learning.

Looking good on the progress Andy.
Your hood latch as all your work is very nice.

Vince

Good to see you Vince! Thanks for the comment!

I must admit the hood latch was a challenge. It has to be where the spring rod will pull the hood in snug but not too tight, and there are no real reference points to measure from. fortunately with two hoods I could look from the other side to see how close everything was.

It's Saturday!!

Again.
 

Toothaker

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Wichita, Kansas
Andy, when you say "make do" I would say "I worked as hard as I could, and this is the best I could do". Your fab skills are fab.:lol_hitti

Happy Saturday!
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Andy: with all the time and success (and learning) your purple car provided are you getting the bug to maybe do more work on other engines or 4 wheel things?

also just an FYI. i'm not positive where all the RR spikes I own came from, but I didn't pick them up from the RR tracks or pay much for them. up here a lot of the old train tracks that were used for years were bought (or donated by RR companies) to become walking and riding trails so a lot of the tracks were removed hence maybe a huge surplus of RR spikes.


yep another great day and I think you are right it's SATURDAY!!

enjoy!!
 

Bob Heine

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Anything from Speedway is worth getting.

This was the new cast rocker covers I ordered for the purplish car in an attempt to get the rocker covers to seal. And they look nice. I thought about making them, but not for the price.

attachment.php
Andy my brother, among the many things we have in common is our taste in valve covers. I replaced the stock magnesium valve covers on the '87 Corvette with tall ball-milled aluminum (magnesium is hard to keep shiny). The center-bolt covers are more expensive but still less than $100.
attachment.php


I liked them so much I upgraded the '72 Corvette valve covers and air cleaner to ball milled polished aluminum. I guess the big block covers are more expensive because they are so much bigger but they were still less than $100. I had upgraded both engines to full roller aluminum rocker arms so they got tall covers.
attachment.php

(I may need to trim the air cleaner hold down stud). :bounce:
 

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oldironfarmer

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Andy, when you say "make do" I would say "I worked as hard as I could, and this is the best I could do". Your fab skills are fab.:lol_hitti

Happy Saturday!

Thanks for the kind words! I think I was referring to automotive add-ons. I've never even bought new wheels for a car, except I bought some painted steel reversed rims for the back of my 50 Chevrolet. My dad was buying my first car and had picked out a 58 Thunderbird with a V-8 and automatic for $800. I talked him into buying a $100 50 Chevy Fleetline with a caved in left rear fender. Cheap to the bone. No, I didn't get the $700. By college I had upgraded to a 52 Chevy sedan which I got for $25 and put the engine he and I rebuilt into the 52. I got a $25 ticket for having a derelict vehicle in our subdivision while I was switching parts. It was a big deal because I was making $1.00 per hour. For my 19th birthday my dad bought me 10" chrome reversed rims and H70-15 tires for it. Pretty cool birthday present. But I have never purchased an unnecessary upgrade after the painted reversed rims until these rocker arm covers. For my son.

Andy: with all the time and success (and learning) your purple car provided are you getting the bug to maybe do more work on other engines or 4 wheel things?

also just an FYI. i'm not positive where all the RR spikes I own came from, but I didn't pick them up from the RR tracks or pay much for them. up here a lot of the old train tracks that were used for years were bought (or donated by RR companies) to become walking and riding trails so a lot of the tracks were removed hence maybe a huge surplus of RR spikes.


yep another great day and I think you are right it's SATURDAY!!

enjoy!!

Hmmm, I wouldn't have an in floor lift unless I regularly work on cars and trucks. So I don't think I'm getting a bug. And I recently bought a four post lift and am contemplating a two post. I would have already bought one except I don't have the time to install it. Before the purple car I had the Studebaker in progress, 52 Willys waiting, 48 Chevrolet 2 ton truck in planning and recently bought a 41 Ford 1 ton pickup. I've got a little work to do on Miss Vicky and on my Dodge Cummins. No, I don't think I learned enough to give up.

This might not be my first rodeo however there is always something to learn.

Andy my brother, among the many things we have in common is our taste in valve covers. I replaced the stock magnesium valve covers on the '87 Corvette with tall ball-milled aluminum (magnesium is hard to keep shiny). The center-bolt covers are more expensive but still less than $100.
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I liked them so much I upgraded the '72 Corvette valve covers and air cleaner to ball milled polished aluminum. I guess the big block covers are more expensive because they are so much bigger but they were still less than $100. I had upgraded both engines to full roller aluminum rocker arms so they got tall covers.
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(I may need to trim the air cleaner hold down stud). :bounce:

Nice looking stuff. I have always envied your willingness to spend a little cash to get what you want. I only thought two seconds about getting rid of Edelbrock to have ball milled.

What's all those braided hoses with AN fittings? You know how much that stuff costs?

Of course mom liked you best.:(

I think you got your $4 out of that can!


Purplish car is looking great.

This is a properly documented paint can

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Purchase date and first used. That can is about empty with the purple car stuff I've been painting. Like the hood latch bracket which also holds the overflow tank and cooling fan electrical.

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I got it done today and am wiring the cooling electricals. In the middle I had a setback. The temperature switch came with a nice brass bushing so I removed a rusted steel bushing and put the brass one in. Filled the cooling system with antifreeze and water and the switch started weeping water. A common Chinese manufacturing error is to make the internal threads in a bushing too large. I don't think they have the proper standards, maybe a metric conversion. (a pipe thread standard is a precise tapered thread with marks to show how far the standard must engage [minimum] and how much it can engage [maximum] and still be right) The male threads won't tighten against the female threads before the two fittings bottom out. I thought this one looked good and felt good so I went ahead. I was wrong and now I need to try to drain and save new antifreeze.

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With no drain plug I have to pull a radiator hose and splash it all over creation.

The fix is simple, put the bushing in the lathe (after draining the water) and face off the hex end a little. It only takes less than 1/16" of an inch to let them make up properly. I tightened it as much as I dare and still weeping.

I needed to go buy feed before a predicted rain makes my cow lot too muddy to back into so I just quit for the day and loaded my wife up and went to town.

My hired man bought a model 1000 New Holland Bale Wagon and robbed the hydraulic pump. I'm helping him mount it to his backhoe. I bought the scavenged wagon.

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I have a later model, a 1033. They are a hydraulic logic marvel. There may be a few parts I can use, and there's definitely good stuff like sheet, angle, channel, spindles, rods, etc. Here's one control valve which tells it whether the second table is up or down. Second table is at the right and hinges at the square nut upper right.

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I love these old things. They pick up small square bales and dump them in a stack in the barn. Or outside in Colorado or Montana. When my wife saw my uncle's she wanted me to buy one. When your wife wants you to buy farm equipment (or shop equipment) be a good husband and obey.

That's it for today!
 

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OP
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oldironfarmer

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Location
Terlton, Oklahoma
I think the most impressive thing in this thread is the fact you got your wife onboard with a purchase. :beer:

Spot on, that is impressive:bowdown:

Oh no. You have it backwards. We were visiting my uncle's dairy and she saw him bringing in a load of 105 small square bales on an expensive piece of equipment. She said "we need one of those". I would not have dreamed of getting something that fancy. At her encouragement I looked around and found a $20,000 piece of equipment (at that time) from a rebuilder who specialized in those only for $2,650 in northern Kansas. I called, made a deal, drove up and roaded a 69 bale wagon (nobody wanted the small ones) home at 45 mph. We had a great trip. And she never had to help haul square bales again.:lol_hitti I used to use the heck out of it.

Seven layer of ten bales per layer and the third from the top is a tie layer, only has nine bales.

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I could barely go three stacks wide in that barn, and store about 2,000 bales. I was feeding small square bales to 105 head of cattle and selling hay all winter. Now Bob does the heavy lifting.
 

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bj383ss

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Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
3,166
Location
TX
Andy looks like you are making progress. Too bad the temp fitting leaked on you. The thermostat housing is just barely sipping on my 64' and I have put off draining everything thing so I can seal it better.

That's a good idea on dating the spray cans. I bet I have close to a 100 and no idea how old some of them are. I still have some I bought when I was a teenager in the 90's and they still work believe it or not.

Bret
 

dlcwent

Member Emeritus
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
8,427
Location
coastal maine
I love these old things. They pick up small square bales and dump them in a stack in the barn. Or outside in Colorado or Montana. When my wife saw my uncle's she wanted me to buy one. When your wife wants you to buy farm equipment (or shop equipment) be a good husband and obey.


Never argue with the wife when shew wants you to buy tools or equipment.:bowdown:
 
OP
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oldironfarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
6,664
Location
Terlton, Oklahoma
Andy haymaking is a little bit different than when I was a teenager.

I hate to say it, Steve, but most things have changed since you were a teenager.:lol_hitti Although I use equipment from the fifties and sixties.

Andy looks like you are making progress. Too bad the temp fitting leaked on you. The thermostat housing is just barely sipping on my 64' and I have put off draining everything thing so I can seal it better.

That's a good idea on dating the spray cans. I bet I have close to a 100 and no idea how old some of them are. I still have some I bought when I was a teenager in the 90's and they still work believe it or not.

Bret

I was tempted to put in leak stop. but the temptation passed, I'd have to tell you guys.:shocking:

An old guy around here gave me the idea. He had a date written on his riding lawn mower. Right on the hood. It was the purchase date. And he would write the oil change date on the hood, and new belts and blades. You have to admit he never lost his records. Then he showed me he dated most everything he bought. It really was pretty good. It is so easy for time to fly by. I date my oil filters and put the mileage on them. I can always look on the car if I need to know. I also write the oil type and quantity someplace under the hood, and the drain plug wrench size. How many times do you really want to try to find that stuff in the owner's manual. Which I think was probably outsourced to a retired IBM technical writer who thinks you'll know more about your car if you put everything about oil changes in different sections.

I don't throw out cans just because they are old, but I do try to use the oldest first.

I love these old things. They pick up small square bales and dump them in a stack in the barn. Or outside in Colorado or Montana. When my wife saw my uncle's she wanted me to buy one. When your wife wants you to buy farm equipment (or shop equipment) be a good husband and obey.


Never argue with the wife when she wants you to buy tools or equipment.:bowdown:

One should always strive to be in agreement with your loving wife and do just as she wishes.

I'm glad the farmers around me didn't have one of those, that was my major source of income until I could drive.

I made some money hauling hay too, but it seemed like more than it really was.

Hey Andy, shame about the leaking fitting.
Nice rocker covers. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Thanks! I'll learn to test before I install, some day.

I had the same experience trying to use one of those HF transfer "pumps."

I am very pleased with it. Super cheap tubing though and you do need a clip to hold it in place. It sure does the job.

I was able to just loosen the radiator hose and catch most of the antifreeze mix in a clean bucket. only took a gallon to get the level below the top of the intake manifold. Took the fittings out and put the bushing in a collar to turn off 0.060".

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Did not do the job. It still bottomed out and would not hold air pressure.

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In fact the small end threads were damaged since it could go deeper into the fitting. The sender turned seven turns before getting snug. I tried some other fittings in the bushing and they snugged up after three turns. So the sender is too small. I chucked it up to cut some of the hex off so it can go deeper into the bushing.

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Gave it some good relief. Moved over close to the other end to trim off the damaged threads. Tapered pipe threads have to thread up tight to seal so this fitting has to go deeper into the bushing.

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Close to the chuck makes for exciting lathe work!

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This is about as much as I want to take off of each end. It screwed into the bushing nicely but under 60 psi air pressure it blew nice big bubbles.

Plan B. I found a O-ring which would barely roll over the threads. I made a narrow washer which would also barely fit over the threads. Then made a small square cut on the bottom of the sender hex. Then cut a square groove into the bushing about 2/3 as deep as the O-ring is thick. Here are all the pieces.

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The O-ring is fully captured when tight but is compressed.

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It held 60 psi air pressure.:thumbup:
 

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Toothaker

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
1,367
Location
Wichita, Kansas
:bowdown:

:thumbup:

:bow:


Andy, I like how you said, "I made a narrow washer." So casual-like, but a critical step that I know I would have struggled with. Very well done!
 
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