Above 1200 Sq/FT Cleaning Up My Shop

[oldironfarmer]

Cleaned up and painted the supports today.

Added a metal flap under the saw handle to avoid sparks going straight up. I'm now getting lots less grit to the left of the saw, just what comes along the work piece.

Started making a couple of washers to align the feet of the saw. That's a worn roller track from the bale chamber of a JD 347 square baler, for those who are curious. It's worn dished which does not hurt for what I need.

Also patched the Willys fuel tank today. We'll see how that hold up, did a little development work and a little farm work.

A good Saturday.

 

[Guster]

Interesting comment. I've never used a wooden mallet on the anvil to straighten, but I see your point. When you straighten you want to use lighter blows which probably helps avoid fullering the section. I'm not a very good blacksmith, either!

Ultrahighmoleculerweightpolyelthylene seems much more descriptive than UHMWPE doesn't it?

Thanks for the additional enlightenment

I may just have to make a bois d'arc mallet for doing panel work.

I forgot to mention the striking surface area of a mallet is another factor to spread the force. A steel hammer with the same striking surface area would weigh I bit more I reckon. The larger UHMWPE mallets have a 4-5" OD and the plastic is non-marring too.

I'm not a fan of when they truncate it to UHMW either as there are other plastics that come in varying densities though the industry is satisfied to correspond it to polyethylene only.

Bois d'arc and rosewood make very nice mallets! You might want to make a few to have around. One for the wood shop, metal shop, smithy etc. etc. From recollection bois d'arc has a very nice aroma when it smokes too! Definitely one benefit over Ultra High Molecular weight Polyethylene.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: if i don't find another 200 pound Peter Wright Anvil i'll probably just mount one of my big 150-200 pound vises on this piece of Madrona. since i can lift it I might have been a bit high on my estimate, but i can lift my 180 pound vises and it feels close to that. I think it was drying in a client's wood shop in his basement for maybe 50 years or so, but it's not quite straight on top. another option i have is to router the feet of the anvil or vise level and probably leave the base as is.

always fun reading your responses to the member's posts. interesting story about the Uncle's Model A's or T's (can't recall which one you said) and did they just leave the cars there to the side of the track when they got a ride and started working for the RR?

cheers

 

[oldironfarmer]

I forgot to mention the striking surface area of a mallet is another factor to spread the force. A steel hammer with the same striking surface area would weigh I bit more I reckon. The larger UHMWPE mallets have a 4-5" OD and the plastic is non-marring too.

I'm not a fan of when they truncate it to UHMW either as there are other plastics that come in varying densities though the industry is satisfied to correspond it to polyethylene only.

Bois d'arc and rosewood make very nice mallets! You might want to make a few to have around. One for the wood shop, metal shop, smithy etc. etc. From recollection bois d'arc has a very nice aroma when it smokes too! Definitely one benefit over Ultra High Molecular weight Polyethylene.

A blacksmith flatter is also used to distribute the force. I hardly ever use one, however. I can certainly see that with sheet metal a mallet would be handy. I have my old bois d'arc mallet in the wood shop. I routinely use it on metal, such as driving the lathe drive spur into the work.

I've never heard of smoking bois d'arc, however it is a fruit wood. It has about the highest but content of any wood.

Andy: if i don't find another 200 pound Peter Wright Anvil i'll probably just mount one of my big 150-200 pound vises on this piece of Madrona. since i can lift it I might have been a bit high on my estimate, but i can lift my 180 pound vises and it feels close to that. I think it was drying in a client's wood shop in his basement for maybe 50 years or so, but it's not quite straight on top. another option i have is to router the feet of the anvil or vise level and probably leave the base as is.

always fun reading your responses to the member's posts. interesting story about the Uncle's Model A's or T's (can't recall which one you said) and did they just leave the cars there to the side of the track when they got a ride and started working for the RR?

cheers

If you mount an anvil I'll post a picture of my anvil mounting. Works well, easy, and holds the anvil while allowing it to rebound (important).

If you can find a Peter Wright anvil in good shape you can buy an old pickup for the same price instead

It's nice to relieve the bottom of a stump to make three feet out of the wood itself. I like a vise on a mounted bench so I can put my weight into it without moving it.

My recollection is that the train was coming and they could not get the car off the tracks so they tipped it over upside down. But I wasn't there. They had to leave the car and put all their belongings onto the train. I've wondered many times whether it is still there. There are lots of abandoned cars in the desert and this may be miles from a road.

Thanks for the followups guys!

 

[Vieux]

You have a great tool. Stand for long workpieces is a simple and ingenious solution.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: you might be right about putting a big vise on my stump and having it move around, but you add a 150 pound old vise on top of a 200 pound piece of wood and it should be pretty solid.

as far as a 200 pound PW anvil costing as much as a good old truck i think as much as trucks cost up here you might be surprised. we don't have an old extra truck sitting in everybody's yard anymore up here cause nobody owns enough land. there are also restrictions and i know how you'd feel up here with people telling you what you could park on your own property and for how long.

I had a neighbor want to buy one of my vices a few years ago and he saw my 177 pound PW anvil and he ended up going home with it too, but he had to go to the bank twice. still i couldn't have bought a decent truck for that much. if i had my big shop it wouldn't have left cause it was a great size and in pretty decent shape for being 150 years old.

we still have some country up here, but anywhere in the city limits it's a pain to have more than a couple vehicles. we all can't drive FARM TRUCKS down the highway like your show truck winner.

have a great SATURDAY!!

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: one of my neighbors has this 80 pound old Rock Island vise on a good size wood base. i doubt that it would move, but i know there are some things where you really do need to put your weight into it to get something loose and you'll either need a vise mounted on a 900 pound bench or a bench bolted to a wall.

this vise has been used like this for maybe 50 years or more.

 

[oldironfarmer]

You have a great tool. Stand for long workpieces is a simple and ingenious solution.

Thank you! Dust control is an issue I had not forseen but think I have it handled. It is really great to set a piece on the supports, mark with the soapstone I have laying right next to it (never could keep track of soapstone on the floor) and make the cut. I finally have a handy place for ear protection so I don't decide to make just one cut without protection. However that horse is about out of the barn.

Andy: you might be right about putting a big vise on my stump and having it move around, but you add a 150 pound old vise on top of a 200 pound piece of wood and it should be pretty solid.

as far as a 200 pound PW anvil costing as much as a good old truck i think as much as trucks cost up here you might be surprised. we don't have an old extra truck sitting in everybody's yard anymore up here cause nobody owns enough land. there are also restrictions and i know how you'd feel up here with people telling you what you could park on your own property and for how long.

I had a neighbor want to buy one of my vices a few years ago and he saw my 177 pound PW anvil and he ended up going home with it too, but he had to go to the bank twice. still i couldn't have bought a decent truck for that much. if i had my big shop it wouldn't have left cause it was a great size and in pretty decent shape for being 150 years old.

we still have some country up here, but anywhere in the city limits it's a pain to have more than a couple vehicles. we all can't drive FARM TRUCKS down the highway like your show truck winner.

have a great SATURDAY!!

350 lbs is a good vise support. I just can't get used to a vise that heavy.

I looked and I can get a well worn Peter Wright in Wichita right now for only $1,200. He's not sure of the weight, however, and apparently does not understand stones.

People here don't think you can drive the Show Truck down the highway either.

Saturday is starting out good. Shorty is some better today.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy: one of my neighbors has this 80 pound old Rock Island vise on a good size wood base. i doubt that it would move, but i know there are some things where you really do need to put your weight into it to get something loose and you'll either need a vise mounted on a 900 pound bench or a bench bolted to a wall.

this vise has been used like this for maybe 50 years or more.

Nice vise, but the carrying strap looks a bit light.

For blacksmith work I can get by with a portable vise. You should be working metal when it is hot and soft. Mechanic's work, when you're trying to loosen or twist off a stubborn bolt is another thing.

That beautiful setup is a piece of history!

 

[Rex_A_Lott]

I'm not so good at this posting pics and comments, but I'll try.
The hammer is a blocking hammer, used for shaping on the stump, and the bag. I got this one from Peter Tomassini.
There is a pic of a roughed out ******* made from bois d' arc, by Dan Shady.
On the table there is a finished version of the *******, leather covered and the wood is finished. It looks too pretty to go beating on metal with it. There are also some wooden handles that were made to put vixen files on. Most of the tools on the table in this shot were home made, the guys were getting ready to do a tool swap.
Like you really needed another project, but these sort of tools "wood" be right up your alley Andy. Good Luck

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: the little ******** the side of the stump with the old vise on it is more for just moving it out from against the wall of his shop and then back again when he's done using it if he needed more room.

i'd love to have my big Rockwell chop saw off the floor and set up on a bench. DARE I DREAM that someday it will have a spot so i won't have to spend 10 minutes pulling it out and setting it up?

 

[shortykorte]

Uh? What? I didn't hear you.


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[oldironfarmer]

I'm not so good at this posting pics and comments, but I'll try.
The hammer is a blocking hammer, used for shaping on the stump, and the bag. I got this one from Peter Tomassini.
There is a pic of a roughed out ******* made from bois d' arc, by Dan Shady.
On the table there is a finished version of the *******, leather covered and the wood is finished. It looks too pretty to go beating on metal with it. There are also some wooden handles that were made to put vixen files on. Most of the tools on the table in this shot were home made, the guys were getting ready to do a tool swap.
Like you really needed another project, but these sort of tools "wood" be right up your alley Andy. Good Luck

Cool tools. I need to make a hammer like that, but it won't be pretty.

I've been watching Peter Tomassini on You Tube. What a craftsman!

Thanks for posting the pictures. I hadn't seen a wooden *******.

Andy: the little ******** the side of the stump with the old vise on it is more for just moving it out from against the wall of his shop and then back again when he's done using it if he needed more room.

i'd love to have my big Rockwell chop saw off the floor and set up on a bench. DARE I DREAM that someday it will have a spot so i won't have to spend 10 minutes pulling it out and setting it up?

It really is a handle! I assumed it was a tool holder.

Dare to dream. 10 minutes setup time would really inhibit it's use. I assume there is an extended "put away" time as well.

Dare to dream!!

Uh? What? I didn't hear you.

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A Skil saw used to kill my ears, but I got used to it. In fact I hardly need ear protection anymore. I'd be at peace except for the deafening tinnitis.

I do want to retain what little I have left (not THAT Coolbah) so I try to use ear protection regularly and always encourage young people to not be tough.

Thanks for the comments, guys.

 

[Strouty]

Those brackets for the chop saw came out great. Might have to steal that idea.

 

[oldironfarmer]

So in an effort to keep my abrasive saw in place, I came up with a ring to capture two of the feet. A finished one in the lower part of the picture.

/IMG_1849_zpskfic0cmx.jpg[/IMG]

Since I need 1-1/4" holes, I either needed to put the four jaw chuck on the lathe (I hate to change chucks) or use the mill. The mill won out because I have to drill and countersink holes in the same piece. Here is the second one with the screw holes drilled and countersunk.

/IMG_1850_zpsozudnexm.jpg[/IMG]

I ground a drill bit to a 90 degree included angle a few years ago for a job and now routinely use it for countersinking because deck screws have a 90 degree taper.

The big hole I started with 1/4" bit, then jumped to 1/2", then to my largest bit, a 1". In a drill press I would have to step up with intermediate bits. On the second hole (this one) the bit dulled and quit drilling. Must have hit a hard spot. Or I was not putting enough pressure on it to keep it cutting, there was a lot of metal being cut for hand feed.

/IMG_1851_zpsrevpmqfr.jpg[/IMG]

So I sharpened it, about 1 minute, and it was ready to go.

/IMG_1853_zpsrs3gre2v.jpg[/IMG]

I thought I had it in focus. The phone tries hard to focus on what you want, it just doesn't know.

The big chip on the left was made by the freshly sharpened bit.

/IMG_1854_zpsnq1mwt45.jpg[/IMG]

Then I used a boring head to cut the hole bigger. This isn't quick, only taking about 0.040" per pass.

/IMG_1855_zpsdz0kh9z6.jpg[/IMG]

A little paint, a few screws, and the saw will not slide around but can be lifted off quickly to make a cut on the floor.

Reminds me of an old saying from an elderly lady friend (she is long gone now) "A little polish, a little paint, makes a girl what she ain't"

I could have clamped it down but I think it needs to be fee to vibrate a little.

This post is continued below.

 

[Strouty]

Looks great, seems like the best solution to keep the saw from moving, plus you got to use cool tools to make the cool part.

 

[tym]

Is that a Heller hammer next to the saw?

 

[shortykorte]

I hear ya! (Turned hearing aids on).
Great idea on the saw positioners. Also, I'm going to have to try hand sharpening some bits.
Shop is looking good. Sorry you got board on the last project.


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[oldironfarmer]

Post continued from above:

I also had to make a new foot. The original rubber had failed. I replaced the left rear with wood a few years ago and it is holding up well, so a bit more wood to the rescue.

/IMG_1857_zpsxvixpc2w.jpg[/IMG]

Then I hung a few tools. I've never had a spot for crow bars.

/IMG_1858_zpstg3muccb.jpg[/IMG]

The big one is home made, don't laugh, it works. The old pegboard tool rack in this room has never been very suitable, so I started transferring wrenches to the new board.

/IMG_1859_zpswsw3lkps.jpg[/IMG]

That's it for shop work today!

Thanks for looking in!!

Those brackets for the chop saw came out great. Might have to steal that idea.

Thanks!

Since I have a big pile of 5/8" sucker rod I use it anytime I can. There are probably 100 sticks of 5/8" in this pile (bigger stuff on top) that an old friend gave me for the hauling. He had sold the land it was on and went to the buyer if I didn't take it. It was probably an entire string, at 21 ft per stick that would only be less than 3,000 ft (I've used some of it) which is not a particularly deep well.

/IMG_1860_zpse35l5yio.jpg[/IMG]

I may have plenty of 5/8" rod. Some of it is pretty pitted but it works for me.

My preference would have been fold down supports but I realized they needed to be too far from the wall and would take up a bit of wall space.

 

[oldironfarmer]

I hear ya! (Turned hearing aids on).
Great idea on the saw positioners. Also, I'm going to have to try hand sharpening some bits.
Shop is looking good. Sorry you got board on the last project.


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I admit I really need hearing aids now. I've got my dad's, we were enough alike they might just work. And if not, I hope to find a shop that will adjust them to fit my hearing loss.

Am I a dreamer, or just cheap?

I think the rings will hold the saw fine. I did a few test cuts.

You really should try sharpening a bit. You might try a 1/2" bit to start. They are large enough to see what you are doing. But when you figure out to watch the angles you are holding the bit you can do a good job on 1/8". Bits smaller than 1/8" really need a finer grit.

You really have nothing to lose except a bit you can't use anyway. I sharpen broken bits, just takes a little longer unless you plan to heat treat it anyway. However the web between the flutes gets thicker as you go down the shank so a bit broken in half does not make as good of a reground bit with the thick center portion. But for big bits where you have drilled a pilot hole it makes no difference.

Thanks, the shop is finally starting to take shape. I get board regularly.

 

[Kev442]

Hmmm, things off the floor, things hung up.
I tried that last weekend ( my only Saturday, can't seem to find more). Cleared off 1/2 a bench top, put some things where they belonged, tossed some others. Voila!

Then I looked on the floor beneath the bench and found a bunch of things that don't belong on the floor. I put them on the bench.

 

[North Run Grader]

You can use steel hammers into soft forms like your wooden stump or sand bag, soft hammers into hard forms. Old oxygen bottles make excellent steel dishing forms. If I ever get home again I'll snap some pictures.
I'm booked to look at an acerage tonight with a 2 bay garage and living quarters, the house burnt down, so the price is right. This working 2.5 hrs from home and living in a 10x10 room with shared kitchen/bath is getting realy old.

 

[madoc1]

i hear ou about the hearing. i have aids, but the are about 6 ears old and not the best when i got them, so toda i stil have trouble, especiall in a crowd. the cost toda is about 6k for a pair, so i just keep m old ones. i think i messed mine up while working at a gas compression compan. the never warned us-heck we didnt even were hard hats. nice work as usual on the chop saw stabilizers!

jim

 

[bolensboneyard]

Thank you! Dust control is an issue I had not forseen but think I have it handled. It is really great to set a piece on the supports, mark with the soapstone I have laying right next to it (never could keep track of soapstone on the floor) and make the cut. I finally have a handy place for ear protection so I don't decide to make just one cut without protection. However that horse is about out of the barn.



350 lbs is a good vise support. I just can't get used to a vise that heavy.

I looked and I can get a well worn Peter Wright in Wichita right now for only $1,200. He's not sure of the weight, however, and apparently does not understand stones.

People here don't think you can drive the Show Truck down the highway either.

Saturday is starting out good. Shorty is some better today.

Andy I am with you on the Peter Wright I have turned down many offers of over a grand for mine so they do go for good money here also. Have a friend in Minnesota who wants one real bad also for a price he can live with. Don't know about the truck but I guess it would depend on what kind of truck qualifies as one. I can see both sides of that coin. However, I guess quality is quality and that is determined by demand, as is the price of the PW. In my mind quality is rarely found in new, and never in an anvil made for the home shop.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Hmmm, things off the floor, things hung up.
I tried that last weekend ( my only Saturday, can't seem to find more). Cleared off 1/2 a bench top, put some things where they belonged, tossed some others. Voila!

Then I looked on the floor beneath the bench and found a bunch of things that don't belong on the floor. I put them on the bench.

Keep looking, the extra Saturdays are out there!

At least you have some floor clean

You can use steel hammers into soft forms like your wooden stump or sand bag, soft hammers into hard forms. Old oxygen bottles make excellent steel dishing forms. If I ever get home again I'll snap some pictures.
I'm booked to look at an acerage tonight with a 2 bay garage and living quarters, the house burnt down, so the price is right. This working 2.5 hrs from home and living in a 10x10 room with shared kitchen/bath is getting realy old.

Thanks for the hammer philosophy. As with most things, the proper way includes some logic.

I've spent too much time working away from home and I never liked it. You have my sympathy.

Hope the place you looked at works out.

i hear you about the hearing. i have aids, but the are about 6 ears old and not the best when i got them, so today i still have trouble, especially in a crowd. the cost today is about 6k for a pair, so i just keep m old ones. i think i messed mine up while working at a gas compression company. the never warned us-heck we didn't even were hard hats. nice work as usual on the chop saw stabilizers!

jim

I didn't know loud environments would damage hearing aids. I've worked around plenty of noise. Especially in operating steam power plants.

Thanks for the kind words!

Andy I am with you on the Peter Wright I have turned down many offers of over a grand for mine so they do go for good money here also. Have a friend in Minnesota who wants one real bad also for a price he can live with. Don't know about the truck but I guess it would depend on what kind of truck qualifies as one. I can see both sides of that coin. However, I guess quality is quality and that is determined by demand, as is the price of the PW. In my mind quality is rarely found in new, and never in an anvil made for the home shop.

I've never had a Peter Wright anvil, and the anvil I use is pretty well worn. However if your goal is blacksmithing you can do a decent job with marginal tools. Reminds me of someone's tag line "cheap tools are for chumps". Interesting concept. And I'm not sure I understand the intent. All over the world some exceptional work is done by craftsmen who do not have good tools, and may not even have access to good tools. Certainly better tools can make a job easier, but there are lots of poor craftsmen with great tools, and you can hear them blame their tools for their failures. I bought some more cheap tools at Harbor Freight just today. Both my lathes were cheap. So I'm a chump

I looked up the definition: a chump is a foolish or easily deceived person. Now I really don't understand, seems to me the foolish and easily deceived are those who can only afford to buy a limited number of tools because they have the mindset the more expensive tools must somehow be better. Is Snap-On really better than MAC? Is MAC better than Craftsman? Is Craftsman better than Pittsburgh? There is no answer, just personal preference.

I said all that to say this: I'm perfectly happy to do my forging on a worn out anvil. At this stage of life I would not trade my old anvil. I had a lighter one I took to shows and meetings, and gave it to my grandson. He has no idea how much that gift meant to me. But it is not a particularly nice anvil.

Thanks for the comments, guys, I guess I rambled a bit.

 

[larry_g]

Reminds me of someone's tag line "cheap tools are for chumps". Interesting concept. And I'm not sure I understand the intent. .

My saying is " I cannot afford cheap tools. " You should understand this. It seems to me that you come out of an industry where time is worth a lot and if a cheap tool fails then the extra downtime soon adds up to big dollars. Same for personal tools. If my pay check is linked to my tools performance then I cannot afford to have a tool fail and leave me unable to do the job.

There is a difference between cheap and inexpensive, and I'd think your lathes were inexpensive on the used market.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[tym]

My saying is " I cannot afford cheap tools. " You should understand this. It seems to me that you come out of an industry where time is worth a lot and if a cheap tool fails then the extra downtime soon adds up to big dollars. Same for personal tools. If my pay check is linked to my tools performance then I cannot afford to have a tool fail and leave me unable to do the job.

I hear you on that. If I'm going to buy a specific tool for my use, I'd like to buy it only once and so go for good quality (not necessarily "best quality" but good). I might buy a throwaway tool if I'm only going to use it once for an esoteric project, but otherwise I like to invest in good quality stuff.

I guess it's like an investment towards my future heirs--of which I don't yet have any. LOL.

 

[Farmall450]

Looking good as always, Andy. I envy your supply of spare steel (& hope to someday aspire to your level, albeit more organized). I'd love to get a lean to or separate building just for steel on racks as even with that cost it would be drastically cheaper than buying new.

It kills me to see scrappers bringing in good, straight steel when the prices get up...what they try to get $300 a ton for sold for $300 a sheet.

 

[oldironfarmer]

My saying is " I cannot afford cheap tools. " You should understand this. It seems to me that you come out of an industry where time is worth a lot and if a cheap tool fails then the extra downtime soon adds up to big dollars. Same for personal tools. If my pay check is linked to my tools performance then I cannot afford to have a tool fail and leave me unable to do the job.

There is a difference between cheap and inexpensive, and I'd think your lathes were inexpensive on the used market.

lg
no neat sig line

Good points! I have never relied on tools for my pay check, except when I was baling hay full time with junk equipment. I just kept spare parts around and made what I could. It was all good equipment when new so with regular maintenance you could get good service out of it.

Funny I've never really had cheap tools fail. I'm not talking about $5 angle grinders. I've broken a few sockets over the years but they were mostly good brands. The really cheap sockets don't fit and have walls extra thick which makes them less desirable to use.

My South Bend lathe was a gift from a friend. However it is well worn and hard to keep a 0.001" tolerance. The Grizzly lathe was new, made in China, and about 1/4 the price of a good one. But it is decent and everything works. I have had a few problems with it but nothing I can't put up with (tail stock is hard to get locked into place, for instance).

On the job most companies buy good hand tools. Not so much with refinery construction companies, however, I've seen lots of the clunky, loose cheap Crescent style wrenches in use. Top notch welding machines and cheap hand tools. Go figure. And contractor rolling stock used in plants is oftentimes horrid.

In the good old days, lots of Williams wrenches and sockets. I still buy old Williams tools when I see them. Black finish but very durable.

I hear you on that. If I'm going to buy a specific tool for my use, I'd like to buy it only once and so go for good quality (not necessarily "best quality" but good). I might buy a throwaway tool if I'm only going to use it once for an esoteric project, but otherwise I like to invest in good quality stuff.

I guess it's like an investment towards my future heirs--of which I don't yet have any. LOL.

On the other hand, I usually buy inexpensive tools and upgrade when it is apparent the cheap tool is not suitable. I usually don't need to upgrade.

It is a difference of mindset: some prefer to have a limited amount of very good tools and some want a wide variety but can only afford to buy cheaper tools. As each person reads this, they can identify their style. Neither is right, just different.

You do need to buy for you, however, not your heirs. You may find your heirs are just not interested.

My son's father in law was a great guy. Gunsmith, machinist, woodworker, reloader, etc. My son inherited a double car garage full of good tools and supplies but the mostly just sit. He pretty much had all he needed at the time. So my tools really have no place to go. Such is life.

Looking good as always, Andy. I envy your supply of spare steel (& hope to someday aspire to your level, albeit more organized). I'd love to get a lean to or separate building just for steel on racks as even with that cost it would be drastically cheaper than buying new.

It kills me to see scrappers bringing in good, straight steel when the prices get up...what they try to get $300 a ton for sold for $300 a sheet.

I could not go to scrap yards, I'd bring home too much stuff. Now it's getting to where you cannot buy from the recyclers. Maybe it was too much trouble to sell to the public, but around here they just don't sell used steel anymore.

And lots of companies are not very good at using their drops, they think it's cheaper to send it to scrap rather than "waste" an employee's time. I'm reminded of the union carpenter making cuts off a unit of 2x4's for the guys on the job. He ran out of lumber too soon. When we looked into it, he had a giant pile of scrap up to 6 ft long. If he got a request for a 27" piece he grabbed a full board, cut it off, and tossed the drop. When asked about using the scrap "It's not worth my time to dig through scrap to match what is needed. You aren't paying me to save bits of scrap". We were building scaffold and he was cutting 3, 4, and 5 ft pieces for toe boards and mid rails around vessels. He used enough material for the entire project in less than a week. Interesting mind set, and I understood where he was coming from. He refused to cut scrap so we were shut down a day building scaffold while we got another unit in.

Thanks for the visits and interesting comments!

 

[madoc1]

and-, i phrased that wrong. the gas plant probabl

- hurt the ears, not the aids. or did i miss the humor? lol

sorr- about the missing letters_bad ke-board.

jim

 

[tym]

On the other hand, I usually buy inexpensive tools and upgrade when it is apparent the cheap tool is not suitable. I usually don't need to upgrade.

It is a difference of mindset: some prefer to have a limited amount of very good tools and some want a wide variety but can only afford to buy cheaper tools. As each person reads this, they can identify their style. Neither is right, just different.

You do need to buy for you, however, not your heirs. You may find your heirs are just not interested.

My son's father in law was a great guy. Gunsmith, machinist, woodworker, reloader, etc. My son inherited a double car garage full of good tools and supplies but the mostly just sit. He pretty much had all he needed at the time. So my tools really have no place to go. Such is life.

Well said. You have, of course, uncovered my dirty secret! Part of my logic is I just like to own nice stuff.

 

[Kev442]

Funny thing about the cheaper tools. There is no doubt a cheap 3/8 ratchet/ socket will fail under hard use, say a 18mm on some suspension part. At that point I get out the cheapish 1/2 drive with a cheap 18mm impact socket.
I rarely have a socket failure and haven't had a ratchet failure since I stopped using Cman raised panels.
I suppose I am a chump?

 

[oldironfarmer]

and-, i phrased that wrong. the gas plant probabl

- hurt the ears, not the aids. or did i miss the humor? lol

sorr- about the missing letters_bad ke-board.

jim

I was just amused by the way you described your gas plant experience.

Shame about the keyboard. They are so expensive. I think a USB keyboard is about $7.

Well said. You have, of course, uncovered my dirty secret! Part of my logic is I just like to own nice stuff.

AHA! nothing wrong with liking nice stuff.

Funny thing about the cheaper tools. There is no doubt a cheap 3/8 ratchet/ socket will fail under hard use, say a 18mm on some suspension part. At that point I get out the cheapish 1/2 drive with a cheap 18mm impact socket.
I rarely have a socket failure and haven't had a ratchet failure since I stopped using Cman raised panels.
I suppose I am a chump?

My experience too. But, like tym said, if you just want nice things, admit that and get the nicer thinks. I'm pretty much stuck on functional.

I truly am glad we are all different. If we were all like me I would not be able to afford an 80 year old tractor.

My lingering cold is about to give up, but I'm having trouble getting started again.

My son said the Bobcat has a hydraulic leak, but I couldn't find it. So before breakfast I went out and stacked some brush.

That's a bigger pile than it looks, about 12 feet high and thirty feet in diameter. My woodcutter has been diligently working away west of the shop and is making me a view. I like that. I haven't cleared waste for him in many months. I need to do an hour per morning for a few weeks to catch up with him. As it is he's having trouble maneuvering around.

After 90 minutes of work I began seeing an oil trail. Took Bob to the barn and couldn't find the source (I did find a 9/16" combination wrench in his belly). Finally noticed a wet spot on the right side. Traced it to a loose plug with a bad o-ring on the outboard side of the right drive motor.

Piece of cake to fix, my cheap selection of o-rings kept me from a trip to town.

The other day the door finally got in place in the paint booth exit filter wall. Somebody needs to finish his paint booth.

When the vet came out to evaluate my herd for medicated mineral supplement she had to go back to her office to prepare the Veterinary Feed Directive. I received it in the mail so we went to Stillwater today and bought $200 worth of mineral.

Hope the cows like it!!

We had a nice Mexican lunch in Yale, OK at Chavas'. Great place.

Thanks for stopping in!!

 

[1/2 Cup]

Andy, that's an interesting discussion in regards to cheap tools. My Dad always said buy the best you can reasonably afford and look after them, my go to Minimax spanners and sockets were purchased 40 years ago and still serve me well.
I don't need to have the latest and greatest and twenty sets of every thing but being a sparky I am passionate about my screw drivers and pliers

Have a good one..

 

[madoc1]

must be feeling real bad with not even an- muffins being made. i understand on the usb ke-board but i forgot and am up in colorado sprgs for a visit.

jim

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy, that's an interesting discussion in regards to cheap tools. My Dad always said buy the best you can reasonably afford and look after them, my go to Minimax spanners and sockets were purchased 40 years ago and still serve me well.
I don't need to have the latest and greatest and twenty sets of every thing but being a sparky I am passionate about my screw drivers and pliers

Have a good one..

Tool discussion is something lots of people are passionate about. Just like religion, each is entitled to their own view, and are not likely to change the views of others. It is an area we all need to be tolerant if we are to get along

I like your Dad's take on it. I still use the Craftsman socket set my Dad gave me for my 15th birthday. I guess they just turned 53. Nice thinwall 3/8" drive. I can identify the 1/2" socket because it was double stamped with the name and size. And the others are well worn, mainly from being carried in a car for years.

Unfortunately a trait I inherited was taking tools to a task and leaving them there. So I like to have three or four sets so I can do something else before the original job is done. In his old age my Dad could never find any tools, scattered all about. He would run down to the local farm store and buy more. In my old age, I like to have several tools boards about the shop with three or four sets of wrenches on each board. While it is convenient, it is excessive and not a good trait. It makes me feel wealthy. Occasionally I have to re-sort tools back to the boards they came from. My sockets are a mess, a drawer full of multiples from all sources.

When it comes to screwdrivers, I don't like cheap tools. I do like the Stanley screwdrivers with the black tips, and Craftsman. I have a few nicer ones but they do not seem to hold up much better.

Thanks for stopping in!

must be feeling real bad with not even an- muffins being made. i understand on the usb ke-board but i forgot and am up in colorado sprgs for a visit.

jim

Nice to be in Colorado Springs! Even with the keyboard your posts are very readable. Just allows us to use a little imagination.

I have had a miserable two weeks, plus my dog got sick and almost died. He somehow pulled through and is almost back to his old self. When he quit eating and even refused raw eggs I knew he was in trouble. He is 17 or 18. He now will go outside and do a little exploring and is eating canned dog food.

I really, really need to bake some muffins Other stuff can wait.

Thank you for visiting. Have a safe trip back down hill.

 

[bolensboneyard]

Andy we are looking at the possibility of getting a Lowline calf, possibility a Dexter, have you had any experience with them. Supposed to be able to feed them on 2/3 the hay and get better quality?

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy we are looking at the possibility of getting a Lowline calf, possibility a Dexter, have you had any experience with them. Supposed to be able to feed them on 2/3 the hay and get better quality?

I don;t know much about Dexters, except they are a small bodied breed. Supposedly superior meat, but that is often a matter of opinion.

You should be able to feed the half to 2/3 the hay of a full size cow but I don't think the feed conversion would be any different.

I think they are gentle so should be fun to have around.

 

[oldironfarmer]

I got out before breakfast this morning and started cutting brush with Bob.

This is small stuff just to the right of the stack I started.

After about an hour it looks like this. I cut those trees and a bunch more. The woodcutter has already taken down the big trees.

Probably about two acres here being cleared.

Here's my tree shear, hanging down.

The big disc is the end of the shear pivot pin, 3" diameter. When new it had a grease zerk. Bad place for a zerk. The first 8" tree that slid across the surface knocked it off. I've been trying to clean it out and hold a temporary zerk in place but it has not worked well. Today was the day to fix it.

The 4" keeper bolt could not be removed, it hit the frame. Looks like they assembled then welded the assembly in place.

Used a blue wrench to get it out.

Took a BFH to drive out a 3" rusted pin. I've kept it under cover, but I'm sure it set out before being sold.

This post is continued on the next post (seven picture limit)

 

[oldironfarmer]

So did my photos disappear for everyone? Or is it just me?


Completion of previous post:

Drilled the hole an inch deep to tap for a zerk, then drilled out with a 1/2" bit so I could get a boring bar in it. Drilled that 1/2" deep.

Here it is turned out, tapped 1/8" NPT, and cleaned. And cleaned. And cleaned.

And here is the zerk in it's new protective home. We'll see how much debris it catches. I think a knife will clean it out for greasing.

Tried to align the keeper hole and drove the pin back in. Went around to look at the hole and try to align it with a drift and WOW! It was lined up good enough to just drive the bolt in. I'm tickled to be lucky. It's much easier than being good!!

And here it is back in the barn ready to go.

Spent the rest of the day back on the Massey Ferguson. The new seal fixed the power steering pump, which revealed the steering unit is defective, so I tear into it next.

Thanks for stopping in!