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Above 1200 Sq/FT Cleaning Up My Shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

Toothaker

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Nov 25, 2016
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Wichita, Kansas
I have read about those terrible "emissions" performance manifolds. They got a bad rap. Bob the rubber seals for the small block chevy's in most kits actually have little ******* on them but these only work in the really old style blocks like 265, 283, and 327. Basically ones that have the road draft setup instead of pcv. Most newer style gen I blocks don't have the holes anymore.

Bret

I have one of those emissions intake manifolds. My Thunderbird has the Streetmaster 460. Comprehensive testing proves it's not too much worse than the stock manifold. :lol_hitti:lol_hitti

See this link. Actually, it could be a lot worse. But what I really want is the Weiand Stealth.
https://www.460ford.com/forum/37-engine-tech/150876-intake-manifold-pecking-order-2.html
 
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oldironfarmer

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Toothaker, he always did the block rather than the manifold. He also knew I wouldn't be happy with the manifold he gave me. It was low profile so the stock big block hood would close and made of aluminum. It was an Edelbrock Streetmaster II single plane and was designed to reduce emissions. It performed worse than the stock cast iron manifold.

He knew you wouldn't be happy...

I have read about those terrible "emissions" performance manifolds. They got a bad rap. Bob the rubber seals for the small block chevy's in most kits actually have little ******* on them but these only work in the really old style blocks like 265, 283, and 327. Basically ones that have the road draft setup instead of pcv. Most newer style gen I blocks don't have the holes anymore.

Bret

Interesting. The old 350 in the purplish car does have the little holes for the ******* to fit into.

I have one of those emissions intake manifolds. My Thunderbird has the Streetmaster 460. Comprehensive testing proves it's not too much worse than the stock manifold. :lol_hitti:lol_hitti

See this link. Actually, it could be a lot worse. But what I really want is the Weiand Stealth.
https://www.460ford.com/forum/37-engine-tech/150876-intake-manifold-pecking-order-2.html

That's some good stuff!:thumbup:

How's the thread going? Any visitors? Probably not, it takes a while for people to find you, and you said you had nothing of interest...
 

Toothaker

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That's some good stuff!:thumbup:

How's the thread going? Any visitors? Probably not, it takes a while for people to find you, and you said you had nothing of interest...

That research applies to the Ford 429/460 family of engines. I'm sure there's something similar for the Chevy 350.

I just posted the first of many updates to my thread where I make a complete fool of myself. Look quick, I may take it down just because it reveals what an idiot I can be.
 

Bob Heine

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Boca Raton, Florida
I have read about those terrible "emissions" performance manifolds. They got a bad rap. Bob the rubber seals for the small block chevy's in most kits actually have little ******* on them but these only work in the really old style blocks like 265, 283, and 327. Basically ones that have the road draft setup instead of pcv. Most newer style gen I blocks don't have the holes anymore.

Bret
Bret, I don't know if the manifold was designed to bypass part of intake port but this is what they looked like. I think port matching would have broken through the runner.
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bj383ss

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Sep 29, 2011
Messages
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TX
Bret, I don't know if the manifold was designed to bypass part of intake port but this is what they looked like. I think port matching would have broken through the runner.
attachment.php

Wow Bob that is hideous. No wonder it didn't perform. Surprised Edelbrock would even release a product like that.

Bret
 

jbmatth

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Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
5,685
Location
Northern Ok.
All caught up Andy, it is good to be back but it is no fun as my to do list doesn't go away while I'm gone. You are making good progress on the purplish car, looking forward to more in the future. How much rain did you end up getting, we had about 8.5" (216 mm) in the 9 days I was gone.

JB
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,022
Location
Pacific Northwest
Andy: thanks for clearing the painting the tire rim issue up for me and I'm most likely just going to buy new tires and maybe some aluminum rims. it's starting to get below 60 especially at night so painting in unheated areas up here won't dry very quickly. if I keep one or both the rims for a spare I might just brush off the rust and put on BLO since I like that look a lot on my vises and other old tools.

since you are the expert on tires have you heard of Carlyle and maybe the Towmaster line for trailer tires? I hear they are the best or is there maybe another brand you know of that is a good value and does what it's supposed to do (haul stuff and hold air)? if you have any information you can post it on my little thread or here if easier. thanks

did you get the transmission bolted up after the few things you found that needed some attention or are you still working on that end too?

looking good sir and hope you have another great day!!
 
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oldironfarmer

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That research applies to the Ford 429/460 family of engines. I'm sure there's something similar for the Chevy 350.

I just posted the first of many updates to my thread where I make a complete fool of myself. Look quick, I may take it down just because it reveals what an idiot I can be.

Well I've had some internet issues. I've replied to these posts once but the replies are not here. Does that mean I've embarrassed myself?

You'd better not take your thread down, too many people are enjoying it.

That's interesting, dimpling the gasket. I just use the spray tac you'd use for squeaky brakes, etc.

I'm sure he said dimple the block, like the holes in early blocks to hold the gasket.

Bret, I don't know if the manifold was designed to bypass part of intake port but this is what they looked like. I think port matching would have broken through the runner.
attachment.php

That's sure a mismatch. So he knew you wouldn't be happy with it.:lol_hitti Sounds like Microsoft...

Wow Bob that is hideous. No wonder it didn't perform. Surprised Edelbrock would even release a product like that.

Bret

My opinion of Edlebrock has diminished over the years.

All caught up Andy, it is good to be back but it is no fun as my to do list doesn't go away while I'm gone. You are making good progress on the purplish car, looking forward to more in the future. How much rain did you end up getting, we had about 8.5" (216 mm) in the 9 days I was gone.

JB

Welcome back, JB! I don't know how much rain we had, but probably no more than 4" (several mm).

Andy: thanks for clearing the painting the tire rim issue up for me and I'm most likely just going to buy new tires and maybe some aluminum rims. it's starting to get below 60 especially at night so painting in unheated areas up here won't dry very quickly. if I keep one or both the rims for a spare I might just brush off the rust and put on BLO since I like that look a lot on my vises and other old tools.

since you are the expert on tires have you heard of Carlyle and maybe the Towmaster line for trailer tires? I hear they are the best or is there maybe another brand you know of that is a good value and does what it's supposed to do (haul stuff and hold air)? if you have any information you can post it on my little thread or here if easier. thanks

did you get the transmission bolted up after the few things you found that needed some attention or are you still working on that end too?

looking good sir and hope you have another great day!!

You won't go wrong with new tires.

I am no tire expert, when you asked for opinions and experience I could give you only my experience.

I have never heard of either of the tires you mentioned so I have no opinion.

Nice picture over on Mick's thread, by the way!:thumbup:
 
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oldironfarmer

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As Rian says, it takes so much time to make small parts.

All I got done today was modifying the exhaust on the driver's side to clear the shifter bell crank when it's in low position. OK, I never put an automatic in Low, but I hate to have it locked out. Holding the exhaust up in place it looked like it needed 1-1/4" extension to clear.

I took the exhaust loose but couldn't get it out from under the car without mangling it up to get the muffler off the exhaust pipe. A little study I decided just to work on it under the car, it has to be back under to tack up the last weld anyway. Went to cutting off the reducer to add 1-1/2".

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It came off OK, but it is close under there. Sure would be nice to have a lift.:lol_hitti

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Cut the old stub out of the reducer and put 1-1/2" back in (had a nice friction fit), then back under the car to fit it. Pretty crooked to make it line up, but the muffler looked level.

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The MIG sure makes a nice weld.

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Put it back in with a jack holding it snug and put three tacks on the tight side.

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No easy way to hook the ground cable to the pipe while it was up against the header flange so I welded a 1/4" bolt on. Just a tack so it would break off.

Moved to the other side and had a larger gap than I thought.

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So I had to do an interrupted weld and the cap looks ugly, but it is solid.

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Broke off the ground bolt and need to clean up. The cap will look better with some grinding.

I was going to gas weld it but had the MIG in there, and was able to clean it up before welding so stayed with the MIG, it was a lot quicker than setting up for gas.

That's all I got done, Rian, but I stayed busy.

Thanks for looking in!
 

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drivesitfar

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Andy: i'm sorry I made a slight mistake in my post about you being THE TIRE EXPERT.

what I should have said was you are the BAD TIRE OR USED TIRE EXPERT cause i still learned more things listening to you about extending the life of a tire than i knew possible.

hope you had a great SATUR day.

more good words sent from me and my bride to you and yours.
 

BBChevro

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Jan 24, 2014
Messages
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Location
Brisbane, Qld., Australia
Hey Andy, this thread moves soooo fast - I had to go back several pages.

I have discovered a problem with doing that...

As I read various posts from various folks about various topics, I had various thoughts about various responses...

...Apparently I don't now.

I may have to re-read some of those pages. :(



Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

BBChevro

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Jan 24, 2014
Messages
2,235
Location
Brisbane, Qld., Australia
A couple of things I was going to mention...

Great job with the heat shield. [emoji106]
It's probably too late now that it's in place, but I was going to suggest painting it with the ceramic coating.

As for the manifold gaskets, I always used a smear of something on the rubber end pieces to stick them in place - even on the early blocks.





Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

bolensboneyard

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Nov 22, 2013
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Location
South East
Andy, your welding is improving. The only people who will be checking out exhaust welds, in inconspicuous places, will be those that would carry an inspection mirror to look up a skirt, and they would be happy with whatever they saw!:lol_hitti

Don't encourage bad behavior by being too concerned. v:thumbup:
 
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oldironfarmer

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Terlton, Oklahoma
Andy you are so right its the small things that do take the time and the devil is in the detail:thumbup::thumbup:

The sad part is the job looks sloppy if the details aren't taken care of. I've never been very good at the details.:willy_nil

Hey, we promise not to look too closely! Exhausts have always been hard for me in position on the ground.

If only they were schedule 80!

I do better with gas, but I was too lazy to go string out the hose. Maybe I don't do better, but at least I think I do.:bounce:

I think that i would take a beating over welding on my back

Nice work there sir.

Back, side, and belly. Trifocals are the $hits in tight spots. I've spent plenty of time under a piece of farm equipment with a stick welder and no auto-darkening hood. A few times got all set up, holding the rod close with one hand and the work with the other hand and got a close up arc flash trying to flip the hood down. And I've got a nice Huntsman paper hood. So when you flash yourself less than a foot away you just have to lay there until you can see again. Auto-darkening hood and a trigger to pull to strike the arc really makes it easy.

Andy: i'm sorry I made a slight mistake in my post about you being THE TIRE EXPERT.

what I should have said was you are the BAD TIRE OR USED TIRE EXPERT cause i still learned more things listening to you about extending the life of a tire than i knew possible.

hope you had a great SATUR day.

more good words sent from me and my bride to you and yours.

:lol_hitti Bad tire expert! I can claim that. I know a may pop when I see one.

We do all learn from each other, it's a great thing!

Hey Andy, this thread moves soooo fast - I had to go back several pages.

I have discovered a problem with doing that...

As I read various posts from various folks about various topics, I had various thoughts about various responses...

...Apparently I don't now.

I may have to re-read some of those pages. :(



Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Welcome back, Mark!

A couple of things I was going to mention...

Great job with the heat shield. [emoji106]
It's probably too late now that it's in place, but I was going to suggest painting it with the ceramic coating.

As for the manifold gaskets, I always used a smear of something on the rubber end pieces to stick them in place - even on the early blocks.

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Welcome back, Mark!

I had a little ceramic paint left in the can I used and thought about coating the heat shields, but I don't think it's durable unless it is cured, and I don't think these will get hot enough to cure. I could have cooked them to cure but didn't think about that at the time.

Thanks for the comments!

I may have mentioned that I'm a bit of a novice using the GJ app...

One of my posts appears to have popped back for an encore performance.

I have absolutely no idea how that happened or how to get rid of it.

Maybe folks will just think that it's deja vu?

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Welcome back, Mark!

Another drawback to using the GJ app is that I can't see anybody's signature. [emoji19]

Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Welcome back Mark!

Andy, your welding is improving. The only people who will be checking out exhaust welds, in inconspicuous places, will be those that would carry an inspection mirror to look up a skirt, and they would be happy with whatever they saw!:lol_hitti

Don't encourage bad behavior by being too concerned. v:thumbup:

Thank you! At least I'm learning how to use the MIG, kind of.

The welds will look better with a heavy coating of rust.

I used to have a job looking up skirts to see what was there. Pressure vessel skirts, that is.


Always nice to have you stop in, Mick.
 

Toothaker

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Wichita, Kansas
Trifocals are the $hits in tight spots.

I don't have trifocals, but I do have bifocals. Get a pair of "computer glasses" - lenses with the near vision part up in the main part of the lens, not looking down. As you can tell, I'm not an optometrist, so I don't know the lingo. But they'll know what "computer glasses" are.
 
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oldironfarmer

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How can I work so long and get such little done?

I did grind down the exhaust weld in case Bobby shows up with his inspection mirror.

attachment.php


Don't know why it's fuzzy, but it's up and bolted into place now behind the heat shield so I can't take another picture. :sad:

I need some help here. This car has rack and pinion steering. I want to lubricate it but don't know anything about it. Anybody know the make and whether it should take oil or grease?

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After getting the exhaust back up and bolted into place I cleaned parts for a while, ran the transmission cooling lines through the frame, and rotated the distributor. Since I had described how I set the distributor physically where I want it, I thought I'd try to show that with pictures. I know some people leave the distributor where it first is set for correct timing but sometimes that is an awkward orientation. Right or wrong it's how I do it. Here's the distributor at TDC.

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Notice the vacuum advance is around behind close to the firewall. I like to line up the distributor with the oil pump so it goes all the way in and I'm sure it's seated. I've had trouble in the past getting the distributor to seat in the oil pump as I turn the engine. I'm not normal.

So I marked the location of the rotor but and checked with the distributor cap on. Little bitty black mark.

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The rotor turns clockwise and I wanted to rotate the distributor counterclockwise so I rolled the engine back about 180 degrees and turned the distributor (and the oil pump) back at the same time about 90 degrees, keeping the rotor bug and mark on the distributor lines up.

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I like that position. The vacuum advance has plenty of adjustment for timing and will never hit the firewall. So now the easy part, I pull the distributor and roll the engine forward to TDC. The oil pump does not move.

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Now the distributor will slip right back in (making allowance for the cam gear lead which turns it a bit) and it is in firing position at TDC with the vacuum advance where I want it and it seated right into the oil pump slot. A big thank you to Mlowery and others for cluing me in on how to find the firing point on the HEI distributor. The rotor wiggles nicely as I turn the base to advance the rotor with respect to the base.

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Thanks for stopping by!
 

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oldironfarmer

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I don't have trifocals, but I do have bifocals. Get a pair of "computer glasses" - lenses with the near vision part up in the main part of the lens, not looking down. As you can tell, I'm not an optometrist, so I don't know the lingo. But they'll know what "computer glasses" are.

Nice idea. I used to have some for office work, but could never get used to them. It seems I'm always needing a different focal length depending on what I'm working on. I have thought about buying an upside down set with distance on the bottom so I can adjust either way but have never done that. And trifocals are expensive, so am I worth it?

Looks like your thread is taking hold!:thumbup:

Thanks for stopping by. It's nice to have an old friend stop by after they have become a celebrity.:bounce::bounce::bounce:
 

carlquib

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Mar 22, 2016
Messages
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I just use single magnification safety glasses to weld and for other tasks where I can't use my regular glasses. I do have multiple powers available, depending on what I'm trying to do. Higher power for fine tig welding, lower to run dual shield, mig or stick welding. While walking around the shop I treat them like readers and just put them low on my nose and look over them. I tried several cheater lens in my hoods but they are no good when you are trying to weld something like an exhaust, only work good when you can look straight ahead. By the way, I thought that looked like a fine exhaust weld. I don't think it will fall off. [emoji846]

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.
 

Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
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Location
Marengo, Illinois
Oh no, a dreaded FRAM filter.

On a dissimilar note, I'd think the rack would take grease but I could be wrong.
When in doubt (or when the seals are shot) corn head grease does the trick (especially something low speed like this).
 

Finallygotit

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Tucson, AZ
attachment.php



Andy, this looks like it was a power rack at one time with the hydraulics capped off on top between those two mounting holes below on the right in the picture. If that's the case, oil is your friend. There may be oil in there now.


I hope I'm right on this, I think I am. If not, I'm sure somebody will come along and correct me.


:beer:
 

drivesitfar

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Andy: I just bought a couple pair of progressive lens glasses last year and hate to admit it, but they sometimes become my safety glasses. I need to buy that full face shield that has a mask in it before i do all the planing and sanding i'll need to do on my cedar pile, but I should be using my masks and shields I have now. I'm still getting used to the depth perception with my new glasses cause I broke a toe in March cause I thought the steel table i was moving was higher than it was. should have had steel toe boots on instead of tennis shoes might have saved my toe.

just curious if you ever heard of the guys that weld under their rigs and have had red hot slag pop in their ear? no joke and it burnt a hole in their ear drum and they lost hearing in that ear. do you wear ear plugs when you are welding under your cars or tractors?

looks like your timing issue is solved. WELL DONE!!
 
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oldironfarmer

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I just use single magnification safety glasses to weld and for other tasks where I can't use my regular glasses. I do have multiple powers available, depending on what I'm trying to do. Higher power for fine tig welding, lower to run dual shield, mig or stick welding. While walking around the shop I treat them like readers and just put them low on my nose and look over them. I tried several cheater lens in my hoods but they are no good when you are trying to weld something like an exhaust, only work good when you can look straight ahead. By the way, I thought that looked like a fine exhaust weld. I don't think it will fall off. [emoji846]

My name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic.

Thanks for stopping in, Brian! one of my problems is I have astigmatism and I don't do well without my prescription lenses. I do keep full size cheaters in my hood, and they help me. I had to use my Huntsman hood a while back to get my face close to an obstruction so I could see the weld area and forgot I had robbed the cheaters. I was flying blind for sure with that weld.

:lol_hitti The weld will definitely not fall off or leak!

Welcome to our group, Brian. It is a good first step to acknowledge your issue with tools. You are not alone. one solution is to saturate your life with tools so they become less important. That's my goal and although I haven't achieved success I am trying hard...

Oh no, a dreaded FRAM filter.

On a dissimilar note, I'd think the rack would take grease but I could be wrong.
When in doubt (or when the seals are shot) corn head grease does the trick (especially something low speed like this).

From what I've read about Fram filters every engine self destructs as soon as you put one on and there are hundreds of thousands of pending lawsuits. But it was almot a dollar cheaper...

Nobody knows about corn head grease except farmers. Don't let it out or the price will soar.:pimpflash

attachment.php



Andy, this looks like it was a power rack at one time with the hydraulics capped off on top between those two mounting holes below on the right in the picture. If that's the case, oil is your friend. There may be oil in there now.


I hope I'm right on this, I think I am. If not, I'm sure somebody will come along and correct me.


:beer:

From the looks of the driver's side (in America) boot there at least was oil in it. The two bolts on top are holding on a two bolt cover plate. Is that where you think the power steering connections were?

Andy its great to see you got the timing issue sorted:thumbup:

Knowing the little trick of when the points open, so to speak, was very valuable to me.

Andy: I just bought a couple pair of progressive lens glasses last year and hate to admit it, but they sometimes become my safety glasses. I need to buy that full face shield that has a mask in it before i do all the planing and sanding i'll need to do on my cedar pile, but I should be using my masks and shields I have now. I'm still getting used to the depth perception with my new glasses cause I broke a toe in March cause I thought the steel table i was moving was higher than it was. should have had steel toe boots on instead of tennis shoes might have saved my toe.

just curious if you ever heard of the guys that weld under their rigs and have had red hot slag pop in their ear? no joke and it burnt a hole in their ear drum and they lost hearing in that ear. do you wear ear plugs when you are welding under your cars or tractors?

looks like your timing issue is solved. WELL DONE!!

My wife loves progressive lenses. I can't stand them. I need to know where the line is so I can adjust my head to try the different focal length when I can't focus. As I get tired I sometimes need my bi-focal for distance.:lol_hitti

You really do need to get you a good respirator and wear it around dusty work. You'll thank yourself later.

If you're working alone and have polycarbonate lenses they do work pretty well for safety glasses so long as you keep your face toward your work. Glancing material is not as likely to imbed in your eye. All the safety equipment is very cheap compared to even an hour at the ER.

While MIG welding produces a lot finer sparks than stick welding, I always wear ear plugs and sometimes a cap to keep the sparks off because I'm a wimp. I don't like to burn, especially when in a tight spot and can't move to brush it off, just have to enjoy the Bern.

Of course when welding under equipment you also have to be cognizant of how it is supported, the possibility of a grease fire, an exploding hydraulic line (or cylinder movement from a heated hydraulic line), or under a car, a gasoline fire. You just have to think a little about the hazards involved or the process of natural selection may take over.

Thanks for the good comments, guys!! Another doctor visit for my wife today so I have to shed shed time...
 

xtremek

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St. Johns, Mi
It looks to me like a manual rack. I've never serviced one, even on cars with 250k miles on them. As long as the boots are good, you should be ok. But if someone here has serviced one, I'd also like to learn.
 

PhantomEB

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Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
The only ride around here that has a Fram filter on it is the off-road truck that hasn’t been touched since ‘09. Every other unit has had a six pack of filters ordered on amazon for them a month before I planned to do the six month interval maintenance on such. Bronco has it’s sitting in the amazon cart for Christmas time where I usually always seem to be in the garage.
 

cvairwerks

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Within hearing distance of Texas Motor Speedway
While MIG welding produces a lot finer sparks than stick welding, I always wear ear plugs and sometimes a cap to keep the sparks off because I'm a wimp. I don't like to burn, especially when in a tight spot and can't move to brush it off, just have to enjoy the Bern.

Been on fire twice and didn't like it either time....:willy_nil Still have the scars from one of those times.
 

Guster

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
1,543
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Don't forget the carbon soot in the exhaust pipe flashing when it gets hot enough with some airflow... seen it happen once. Exhaust was open both sides and buzzing like a blowtorch for a good 30 seconds. Uncle got a nice burn on his leg from it thanks to where he was standing and the colourless flame.

Congrats on 300 pages of cleaning your shop. That weld is in a ******* of a spot, even for MIG. Put some rust back on and nobody will know! :)

Much left to do now?
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,022
Location
Pacific Northwest
Bob: not that you have to or even want to, but you can set your view on GJ now to 100 posts per page so Andy's thread is only 60 pages in my book. plenty of great stuff in this thread that is for certain.

Andy: I hope the trip to the doctor was worth it and they had maybe some good news for you and your bride. crossing fingers and toes it was a good day!!

cheers
 
OP
O

oldironfarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
6,664
Location
Terlton, Oklahoma
It looks to me like a manual rack. I've never serviced one, even on cars with 250k miles on them. As long as the boots are good, you should be ok. But if someone here has serviced one, I'd also like to learn.

That sounds good! I thought one boot was bad so I bought a universal replacement but now I can't find any cracks.:thumbup:

The only ride around here that has a Fram filter on it is the off-road truck that hasn’t been touched since ‘09. Every other unit has had a six pack of filters ordered on amazon for them a month before I planned to do the six month interval maintenance on such. Bronco has it’s sitting in the amazon cart for Christmas time where I usually always seem to be in the garage.

:lol_hitti I've never had a problem with Fram filters, and they are mostly what I use. I hardly ever keep a car past 250,000 miles though, just the Dodge diesel which is a little over 300,000. Frams every time on it.

300 Pages!

Where does the time go?

Boy, ain't that the truth! I figured I have my shop cleaned in six months and drop off of here. Now I can't leave. Thanks for noticing.

Been on fire twice and didn't like it either time....:willy_nil Still have the scars from one of those times.

I try to avoid pain and agony, except in romantic relationships.

Don't forget the carbon soot in the exhaust pipe flashing when it gets hot enough with some airflow... seen it happen once. Exhaust was open both sides and buzzing like a blowtorch for a good 30 seconds. Uncle got a nice burn on his leg from it thanks to where he was standing and the colourless flame.

Congrats on 300 pages of cleaning your shop. That weld is in a ******* of a spot, even for MIG. Put some rust back on and nobody will know! :)

Much left to do now?

Never seen a carbon fire like that. It does not sound fun.

I was able to get a picture of the weld bolted up, rust will help.

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Car is going back together now. Maybe a couple more days, I hope.

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Bob: not that you have to or even want to, but you can set your view on GJ now to 100 posts per page so Andy's thread is only 60 pages in my book. plenty of great stuff in this thread that is for certain.

Andy: I hope the trip to the doctor was worth it and they had maybe some good news for you and your bride. crossing fingers and toes it was a good day!!

cheers

We like the doctor, and though the would do surgery on her today but he demurred to a dermatologist. November 26 if it will wait that long. So it's good news, no surgery.:thumbup:

Got my steers in to show to an on the farm buyer. The all lined up nicely.

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They're getting grass bellies.

Then the sunset made a nice show on the shop.

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Thanks for the visits and comments!!
 

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tym

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2016
Messages
2,435
Location
MA
:lol_hitti I've never had a problem with Fram filters, and they are mostly what I use. I hardly ever keep a car past 250,000 miles though, just the Dodge diesel which is a little over 300,000. Frams every time on it.
I think I remember reading somewhere that the gold Fram filters are decent; it's the orange ones at Wal-Mart that are crapola.

I use NAPA Gold filters on the cars I maintain. They're rebranded Wix and <$10 apiece. They also have better filtration efficiency numbers than the newly revamped Mobil 1 filters, which used to be my go-to.
 
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