OP
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Still stuck under the dash!
But made some progress. I found lots of the blades on the switches were loose so I decided to repair rather buy new less robust switches. they came apart easily, very clean inside, no burned spots just lots of grease.
I had a small punch with a peened end so I rounded that and polished it and used an aluminum bronze punch for an anvil to reset the rivets.
That worked but not too well, I couldn't get a good blow, needed a dish for the rivet head (which is also the contact) to seat in when I hit the other side with the punch. I cut the head off a 5/16" used bolt and ran a ball mill into it.
Put that just proud of the vise jaws and the rivets seated well.
Slicker than snot! Got all the rivets set and have tight blades. Switches work well.
With the switches out I could figure out their design. Off plus three positions with a common B (bulb?) terminal always on. This is how the wiring diagram looked when I got the car:
Black wire from switch one to switch two is redundant. I'm not sure what the upper damper does, if it is for a defroster there are no openings on this car so it's just blowing up under the dash. And it looks like the water valve is not adjustable and on all the time.
After a little thought I decided this is what I want, eliminate switch three and maybe eliminate the water valve control and make it a manual control by cable from a lever in switch three location.
If anyone wants to take the time to browse through these and give me their comments I would appreciate it.
I think I'll set up a vacuum pump to simulate engine vacuum and make sure everything works as it should before I put stuff back together.
Thanks for looking in!
But made some progress. I found lots of the blades on the switches were loose so I decided to repair rather buy new less robust switches. they came apart easily, very clean inside, no burned spots just lots of grease.
I had a small punch with a peened end so I rounded that and polished it and used an aluminum bronze punch for an anvil to reset the rivets.
That worked but not too well, I couldn't get a good blow, needed a dish for the rivet head (which is also the contact) to seat in when I hit the other side with the punch. I cut the head off a 5/16" used bolt and ran a ball mill into it.
Put that just proud of the vise jaws and the rivets seated well.
Slicker than snot! Got all the rivets set and have tight blades. Switches work well.
With the switches out I could figure out their design. Off plus three positions with a common B (bulb?) terminal always on. This is how the wiring diagram looked when I got the car:
Black wire from switch one to switch two is redundant. I'm not sure what the upper damper does, if it is for a defroster there are no openings on this car so it's just blowing up under the dash. And it looks like the water valve is not adjustable and on all the time.
After a little thought I decided this is what I want, eliminate switch three and maybe eliminate the water valve control and make it a manual control by cable from a lever in switch three location.
If anyone wants to take the time to browse through these and give me their comments I would appreciate it.
I think I'll set up a vacuum pump to simulate engine vacuum and make sure everything works as it should before I put stuff back together.
Thanks for looking in!




I think these will be disassembled and cleaned first.


