Click or Dial wrench for low torque applications

[T45]

^^^ What is your application?

 

[T45]

For 1-3 foot pounds (up to 5NM) they have torque instruments that look like screwdrivers or T-handles. Depending on your use-case, this can be either a critical part or something wholly inconsequential.

 

[hotsho111]

Almost entirely automotive applications. Shade tree mechanic working on cars and motorcycles.

 

[T45]

Based on my experience, I would say 3-4 NM and up. Check out manuals to confirm this. There should be alot more parts at 10NM than at 5NM. This is the crux of the dilemma tho -- alot of instruments range by 5x and go from either 2-10NM or 4-20. Which puts either 5NM or 10NM at the max end. But you likely have both. The earlier micro-beam only goes up to 7NM tho. You also have this:

http://www.backcountry.com/ritchey-tool-torque-key

The issue here is you end up with a minimum investment of 3-4 instruments.

1-9 - Specialty
4-20 - Moto
20-100 - Moto
60-300 - Auto

 

[hotsho111]

Ya, I was expecting needing to get multiple tools for the range though. I currently have 10-250 ft/lbs covered which covers most of what I do (and I don't expect to find anything requiring north of 250 so I'm just trying to get the bottom end set up.

I'd think 30in/lbs to 150in/lbs should be fine. I've never seen anything requiring less than that

 

[VoodooCLD]

Why? Proper usage is to snug everything up with conventional tools and then use the dial wrench to finish the job.

If you're twisting off valve cover bolts, you are either inexperienced or have no torque sense. I'm going to assume that you are not doing this for a living, because you wouldn't have a job very long in a commercial shop.

I don't work in a shop. I almost exclusively work on classic vehicles. If you wanna run aftermarket cast aluminum valve covers on an original cast iron head you have to use very thick gaskets. The gaskets need to be squeezed incrementally and it's very tough to judge a crushing gasket. It's a far cry from swapping out late model valve cover gaskets. More akin to an art.
I actually never even bought the dial wrench until i needed it for measuring bearing preload while rebuilding a rear end. Now i use it for those tricky valve cover situations as well, as it allows me to visually see how the gasket is crushing. Everything else gets clicker type.

 

[92integra]

would any of you guy's recommend a nice digital torque wrench for these low torque values.... thinking the new snap on techangle, but not sure, i like how the click style prevents you from over torquing, with the play that occurs in the head after reaching torque.

 

[Tronyadorable]

Digital torque wrench ? I think Dial calipers are for sissies.....LOL

 

[hotsho111]

So, I'm not really any closer to making a decision hah.

Checking out the PI dial wrenches it looks like they are fixed heads. Is that ever a pain?

 

[wild cowboy]

this is the one I'm currently using, and have a small 1/4" clicker in inch-pounds for scope rings, but still want a beam style...

this is an example of a Precision Instruments dial torque wrench that is labeled as a Snap-On

 

[T45]

Tradeoff-ville.

beam/dial - faster, more accurate, less risk of missing

clicker - better in confined places and awkward angles

beam/dial - no need to wind/unwind the mircometer/spring

clicker - convenient ratchet, inconvenient calibration needs

Bottom line is you should prep your bolt to 80% torque and then do a final motion with the torque instrument. A ratchet is really only meant to speed up the getting to 80% bit. So you will need to get the bolt snug-down with a normal hand-tool (driver, combo, ratchet etc), and put the final touche with the TI.

How much of a hassle this last bit is comes down to tools and technique, so its sort of personal IMHO. It may also have a commercial dimension if you are on the clock. But being safe rather than sorry in your test case -- engine and delicate critical fasteners -- means that a mistake be a 10x incovenience.

So, it really is up to what you want to do.

Unless you are working on stuff in very confined areas, probably not a deal killer.

But if you know you have a couple problems like that, then I would make it more of a consideration.

 

[wild cowboy]

It has nothing to do with weather or if it is hot or cold where they are stored (in a weather controlled room or a garage with weather/temp fluctuations) for the frequency of calibration. It has to do with how critical the parts are that are being assembled & torqued.

yes, I am afraid that torque wrenches exposed to variations in humidity, weather, and being dropped will go out of calibration much faster than those that are stored in climate controlled areas and not dropped, and you do a disservice to folks here by saying any different. Every torque wrench manufacturer will agree with me on this, so there is no need for further debate on the importance of care and avoidance of shock and climate controlled storage when it comes to any type of torque wrench.

As far as getting the torque wrench calibrated more often when used in extremely critical applications, well that should just be common sense for any GJ reader.

 

[ttpete]

I prefer dial or beam type wrenches. Using them, I can see the torque gradually come up and I know where I am at any given point. They're also mandatory when measuring bearing preload. I have a small Indestro inch pound beam wrench that has a hole for the handle, and I can put my finger in to spin the shaft to get preload readings.

 

[hotsho111]

Unless you are working on stuff in very confined areas, probably not a deal killer.

That's what is making this a bit tricky. Some of my (current) needs for this low value torque wrench will be on a boxer engine in a very cramped engine bay so even if I can get the wrench in place I might not be able to see the reading.

The light feature that Cowboy mentioned could work but that looks like it's another 100 bucks on the price of a non light dial wrench

 

[T45]

http://www.amazon.de/dp/B001CA1JNE/

This might be of interest to you, looks like a low profile 1/4 drive.

 

[Tucker99]

Bring to the top because...Question for the ages: Should fasteners be lubed before torqueing? Why?

 

[Art From De Leon]

I used a MAC dial type (0-150 inch pounds) for when setting axle bearing preloads, and when rebuilding JD Perma-Clutches.

It has a second needle, in a contrasting color that you can preset so you can easily see when you have reached the proper torque.

 

[Art From De Leon]

Bring to the top because...Question for the ages: Should fasteners be lubed before torqueing? Why?

Depends on what the manual says, and what type lubricant, if any, to use. to prevent 'grabbing', and reduce friction.

 

[RunninOnEmpty]

Hey, I have some torque wrenches covering 10 ft/lbs to 250 ft/lbs and I keep running across bolts requiring less than 10 ft/lbs (engine work) and I was curious if you prefer micrometer click type torque wrenches or dial torque wrenches?

I think micrometer torque wrenches are **** compared to split beam and other types. They lose calibration easily (especially for people who sometimes forget to put them back to the lowest setting). When they are in good condition and calibrated, they work well. Some people prefer the readout of the micrometer type, saying it is easier to read than other types, but I personally think that micrometers are a pain to read as I have to look at the engravings on the wrench from a certain angle to see them clearly compared to a dial. I wouldn't consider a micrometer unless it were nearly free.

Bring to the top because...Question for the ages: Should fasteners be lubed before torqueing? Why?

Personally if I'm gonna put anything on threads, it's going to be threadlocker or anti-seize. I know a lot of people use a little grease but I think that's ridiculous and wouldn't consider it, personally.

 

[meier motor sports]

Hey, I have some torque wrenches covering 10 ft/lbs to 250 ft/lbs and I keep running across bolts requiring less than 10 ft/lbs (engine work) and I was curious if you prefer micrometer click type torque wrenches or dial torque wrenches?

The two I have are PI split beam wrenches (and I love them) and I was looking at either getting the PREM1R200HX which is a 30-200in/lb click wrench or the PRED2F150HM which is a 0-150in/lb dial type.

One benefit of the dial wrench is that it does all the way down to 0 but it looks kinda big and I can already see it not fitting in a couple spots for bolts on my car.

click style or digital if you can afford it for all fastener torque settings. easy and acurate. dial obviously can be use but you have to watch it closely for each and every bolt. the dial ones are a must for setting bearing pre load and such

 

[franzdom]

Electronic are a really good compromise, accurate and easy to use without looking at the display. You can check to see how far over you went. Work for CCW also. I guess the main drawback is price.

 

[Adam.C]

Bring to the top because...Question for the ages: Should fasteners be lubed before torqueing? Why?

Yes. There is no such thing as a dry torque value using our definition of "dry".

The torque values listed as "dry" are technically for bolts that have either a film of protective oil or dry film lube, etc. In industrial settings, where the torque values are defined, there is no such thing as a bone dry corroded slightly oxidized fastener. Lubed values are for greased, or fasteners installed "wet" with paint, sealant etc.