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Cold chisel/Files/hacksaws

Turkey_Bones

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Sep 7, 2018
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Rural Oregon
So I have recently gotten into welding and also looking into machinist work. I do want a metal lathe and vertical mill eventually but I want to do more research first before going that route.

I am a software engineer by trade and so this is purely hobby but I thought it might be fun to learn old school simple machining with hand tools. I do know that chiseling steel for example takes a long time but this is a hobby.

My questions are what are some quality new or used cold chisels/files/hacksaws that would be able to cut keyways etc with a piece in a vise?
 
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davethorik

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Starrett or Morse usa hacksaw blades. Or Lenox. A nice high-tension hacksaw of choice. Mayhew or Wilde cold chisels, steer clear of Dasco (butter soft steel). Use a ball pein hammer to strike chisel, and keep striking face from mushrooming and fracturing, by dressing chisel with bench grinder or belt sander.

Edit: wear safety glasses.
 
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Firebrick43

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Trying to cut a keyway with a chisel is a good way to frustrate yourself.

Only if you have the wrong chisels or can't sharpen them.

Wilde and even better is Mayhew pro. Agree on forgetting dasco. Proto is ok.

The best hacksaw frame I have used is a snap on. Agree that starrett blade are pretty good. Stanley's are the worst.
 
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dr_clyde

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I buy Starrett and Lennox hack saw blades, Snap-on, Mayhew, Wilde and Starrett punches and chisels, and I use mostly Nicholson files, although PFRED, Simonds and Grobet make a good file. I just get files my welding supply stocks and that happens to be Nicholson.
 

seber

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At one time keyways were commonly cut with keyway chisels. I have a full set that have accumulated from auctions sales over the years. If you put an ad on Craigslist I bet you could find some.
 

Firebrick43

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The frame I have experience with is now at least 15 years old and not sold thru snap on any more.

A little research shows its still available as the bahco 225 plus.
https://www.bahco.com/en/p/professional-hand-hacksaw-frame/e7-78-0f-5a-5e-2c-46-d1-a6-f3-61-ef-a6-b2-92-9f/

https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-225-PLUS-Professional-Hacksaw-Aluminum/dp/B0001IX7BU

The tension it can put on a blade is insane and is extremely stiff. The second blade position (almost on its side) has saved my bacon more than once

The only other coworker that uses a hacksaw cringes every time I tension it up. He barrows often as well. Everyone else will spend hours trying to find a way to cut something with a power saw when I would be done in less than 5 min.

I have no experience with the bahco/snap on 325 but the tensioner looks similar.
 

chrisnazzy

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The frame I have experience with is now at least 15 years old and not sold thru snap on any more.

A little research shows its still available as the bahco 225 plus.
https://www.bahco.com/en/p/professi...78-0f-5a-5e-2c-46-d1-a6-f3-61-ef-a6-b2-92-9f/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IX7BU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The tension it can put on a blade is insane and is extremely stiff. The second blade position (almost on its side) has saved my bacon more than once

The only other coworker that uses a hacksaw cringes every time I tension it up. He barrows often as well. Everyone else will spend hours trying to find a way to cut something with a power saw when I would be done in less than 5 min.

I have no experience with the bahco/snap on 325 but the tensioner looks similar.
Hey I have that hacksaw you're referring to. I bought it probably in 2001. It's always handled any cutting tasks I've given it. I didn't realize it was such a standout when it comes to hacksaw frames. 4bec01e8ce1623cc708dcd6ffbf4e696.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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GrantCee

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I'll admit to being a snob when it comes to files, and for my money I've found the best are Swiss or German. Grobet (Swiss) or F. **** (German) are the makers I prefer. I have files from those companies that I've been using regularly on steel for more than a decade and they're still sharp. I've never found an American file that was as good.

That being said, if used incorrectly, "sandpapering" the things back and forth, none of them will last very long. The teeth get rounded over and will no longer cut. Lift slightly on the backstroke, so there is little to no contact with the work, and the teeth don't get rounded over.

Of course cleaning them with a file brush after every use is a must, and I'm still one of those old fashioned people who believes in file chalk.
 

Dingleburry

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Best hacksaw blade ive used is Bahco, best chisels PB swiss, but i havent really used alot, cause these do just fine.
For shits and giggles. Heres a pb swiss vs craftsman doing the same job, using as a wedge. Perhaps the coating had alot to do with it? One being fairly smooth and one being kind rough.
Got peeled like a banana
 

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ChrisLS8

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I have been using Mayhew 150 line chisels for years and they still look great. I use my 3/4 to chop boogers off precast or cutting steel almost daily at work
 

Dave455

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Sussex, England
The frame I have experience with is now at least 15 years old and not sold thru snap on any more.

A little research shows its still available as the bahco 225 plus.
https://www.bahco.com/en/p/professional-hand-hacksaw-frame/e7-78-0f-5a-5e-2c-46-d1-a6-f3-61-ef-a6-b2-92-9f/

https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-225-PLUS-Professional-Hacksaw-Aluminum/dp/B0001IX7BU

The tension it can put on a blade is insane and is extremely stiff. The second blade position (almost on its side) has saved my bacon more than once

The only other coworker that uses a hacksaw cringes every time I tension it up. He barrows often as well. Everyone else will spend hours trying to find a way to cut something with a power saw when I would be done in less than 5 min.

I have no experience with the bahco/snap on 325 but the tensioner looks similar.

Snap On used to offer an even better frame - I think they called it a ‘High Tension’ Frame.

I can remember seeing them on the truck probably in the late 80’s, but didn’t realise how good they were till much later on, by which time they were discontinued.

I think they were made by Simmonds!
 

redmondjp

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. . . Of course cleaning them with a file brush after every use is a must, and I'm still one of those old fashioned people who believes in file chalk.

OK, so I'm in my 50s and I have never heard of file chalk - can you tell me more about it? I've been doing occasional metalwork for the past 40 years and have never heard about it before (no joke).
 

5ktq

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I have one like that 225, I'm not sure where it came from, dad had it as long as I remember. It's Sandvik branded though. I wonder if Sandvik was the originator and not Bahco (they merged sometime in 80/90s?).

Sandvik blades were always good too. I think bahco stills sells them as sandvik.. sandcut, sandflex, etc.
 

jumbojak

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OK, so I'm in my 50s and I have never heard of file chalk - can you tell me more about it? I've been doing occasional metalwork for the past 40 years and have never heard about it before (no joke).

Running chalk, preferably railroad chalk, over the file keeps it from loading up so quickly with swarf. It's especially useful for draw filing.
 

2oolhound

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Dec 18, 2010
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BC Canada
Some other tools and processes you may be interested in are:

Bearing Scrapers

These are often made from old files. Their primary use was to shape babbitt bearings but they were also used for shaving cast steel surface plates and other precision things.
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Lapping Plates

The process of rubbing 2 flat surfaces together with an abrasive between to obtain a flat surface.

Emery Cloth

Emery cloth is better suited to metal work than sandpaper because the cloth backing is much more robust and will bend over contours and edges without breaking. It's like a file for uneven surfaces. Emery cloth and it's cousin crocus cloth provide the final mirror finish of metal grinding operations like crankshaft journals and camshaft lobes.

I just made a sharpening jig for my grinder on the weekend using a type of lapping tecknique and some filing followed by an emery finish.

I made a track from some 1" angle iron. The welding of the mounts distorted the flatness of the angle iron strips so I straightened them as best I could in a hydraulic press. I made a lapping surface on the bench using a long 6" wide sanding belt with a length of steel plate under the top layer for flatness. My 22" track was then rubbed back and forth over this surface repeatedly to take down all the high spots.

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You can see the sanding belt with the steel plate under it better here -

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You can see the high area in the center here that is slowly coming down. There was about 1/64 deviation from flat after straightening on the press.

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The sled that runs along the track was made from some 3/8 plate with 1/2" square bar strips welded to the bottom. Although the angle iron was welded with square bars placed between for proper spacing when I plug welded the bar to the plate there was still some distortion of the bars. I filed them flat where they would contact the angle iron.

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Not as accurate as could be done on a milling machine so I made the sled longer to eliminate as much slop as I could. There is hardly any. Emery was used to final polish the contact areas of the square bar.

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The track tilts up and down to change angles and the sled is tapped for hold down clamping.

This job would have been faster and more accurate on a milling machine but when I calculated working long enough to cover my cost of living and operational expenses while I saved enough to buy one doing it this way was still the best method at the time ;)

(do I want a milling machine? HELL YES!)

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GrantCee

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OK, so I'm in my 50s and I have never heard of file chalk - can you tell me more about it? I've been doing occasional metalwork for the past 40 years and have never heard about it before (no joke).

The file chalk comes in big sticks and the clean file is rubbed in it before starting work. The chalk keeps the metal shavings from clogging up the teeth as quickly, and allows a quick "tap" of the file on a hard surface to more effectively knock the shavings out of the teeth.

The rhythm of file-tap-file-tap is quite soothing on a long job!
 

Copymutt

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Several times I've seen restoring old files by soaking them in a dilut acid. Anyone had success with this?
Jim
 

sberry

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I cant even remember the last time I used a common hacksaw and rarely use a file. Sawzall, cut off wheel and grinders to most of the work.
 
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