aqr81
Well-known member
It's looking great!
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Colorado Suburbs 22' x 44' detached
- Thread starter grant00
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
Grant, just saw this and am reading through it now. Got a chuckle out of this comment - when I build the shop over at my son's my concrete contractor left his bobcat and attachments and gave me the green light to use. My son and I had a lot of fun breaking out the driveway that needed removal and also did some needed dirt work and moving grape vines as we had to take over some of the chicken yard. It's pretty cool when they know you and trust you enough to leave their stuff and give you the green light like that
That’s awesome
sounds like some great bonding time that I hope you’ll never forget. Thanks for the comment! Using the equipment more and more does help me appreciate just how long things take (or not long) and why having a contractor do them costs so much for theirs and their crew’s time. I find it extremely valuable to do it as much as I can and learn.
Slab pour day! Quite happy so far. It looks like they got the slope to the drain pretty well and the driveway apron is nice and gradual. The floor sloping to they drain is about 1/4” per foot. I should have about 2’ up against the walls in the front where it’s flat and not sloped.
Started at 7am, compacted, vapor barrier, rebar, and dowels done and ready to pour by 9am.
Pump and concrete showed up at 11am.
All poured by 12:30. Then a break before starting to finish. I was a high of about 53 F today late until he afternoon so nice and cool.
And done:
Started at 7am, compacted, vapor barrier, rebar, and dowels done and ready to pour by 9am.
Pump and concrete showed up at 11am.
All poured by 12:30. Then a break before starting to finish. I was a high of about 53 F today late until he afternoon so nice and cool.
And done:
wasfast
Well-known member
I think it's a real advantage to have the floor poured just after the foundation. Staging material, Framing, moving around in general inside is SO MUCH EASIER. You can use a lift if wanted. I know many wait until nearer the end to pour the slab but I think you'll appreciate this. Looks really nice.
More digging, got the majority of the French drain and floor drain ran where I want them to end up. Still deciding if I want to put in a dry well or not. I’m thinking it would be a good idea. I did put gravel in the fabric with the pipe, just didn’t grab a picture. Washed and moved a lot of gravel today. I’m beat.
Attachments
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Looking good. Exciting to see things start to take shape.
No huge updates, dug another hole and put stuff back in it haha. I think I’m mostly done digging now, just some more drain outlet details and filling in the rest of the top tomorrow.
I put in a dry well bin from NDS for the garage floor drain. The French drain will exit downhill just past this where the natural drainage is for the yard.
I put in a dry well bin from NDS for the garage floor drain. The French drain will exit downhill just past this where the natural drainage is for the yard.
BMEP
Well-known member
Nice - great use of space! Digging and moving all that rock is back breaking work for sure.
Been fairly quiet until yesterday when lumber and trusses showed up. Framers started this morning (Thanksgiving day) and got one wall up and all sill plates down in a half day.
Over the last few weeks I did some compacting around the side and had some new gravel delivered for the north side and south side until we get a new patio poured.
Lumber and trusses:
I was out there this morning too as I wanted to run caulk under the sill plate on top and bottom of the foam gasket. I didn’t want them to have to deal with doing it so it was just easier to do it myself and stay ahead of them while they were marking the sill plates. Beads of big stretch on bottom and top of the sill sealer:
Where the framers stopped today. Should go up quick!
Over the last few weeks I did some compacting around the side and had some new gravel delivered for the north side and south side until we get a new patio poured.
Lumber and trusses:
I was out there this morning too as I wanted to run caulk under the sill plate on top and bottom of the foam gasket. I didn’t want them to have to deal with doing it so it was just easier to do it myself and stay ahead of them while they were marking the sill plates. Beads of big stretch on bottom and top of the sill sealer:
Where the framers stopped today. Should go up quick!
Framers came back today and put in a full day. Got the rest of the walls up and openings framed then got the trusses up and started adding outlookers for the front and rear overhangs.
The truss overhangs got ordered 1' short so they will add on some extensions to make it to 2' on the plans to match the house.
The truss overhangs got ordered 1' short so they will add on some extensions to make it to 2' on the plans to match the house.
Got most of the electrical boxes in for getting the permit closed. Just doing minimal now and finishing the exterior first. Then I’ll come back later and lay out the electrical for real.
Started getting some air sealing done today with 3M 8067 flashing tape on the OSB. So far I like this stuff. It’s pretty dang sticky and has some stretch to it. I’ve been rolling it like you would with Zip tape with a Zip system roller as well. Helps in just the same way with the pressure sensitive adhesive.
Started getting some air sealing done today with 3M 8067 flashing tape on the OSB. So far I like this stuff. It’s pretty dang sticky and has some stretch to it. I’ve been rolling it like you would with Zip tape with a Zip system roller as well. Helps in just the same way with the pressure sensitive adhesive.
Been busy but not posting, a lot has been getting done.
Since the last post, I finished taping all the sheathing seams for air sealing and the framers came back for one more day and installed the sub- fascia and some fire blocking. Came out nice and straight and level!
-got the sub panel installed and terminated my feeders in the main panel and sub panel
-laid out all the wall quadplex boxes for the 120v receptacles inside. I’m thinking of alternating every other box on a different circuit. The boxes are about 6.5 feet apart from each other all around so I should have no shortage of 120v outlets!
-Garage door was installed
-started putting drip edge at bottom of the walls over the foundation foam
-today, 12/10/23 I got all 4 windows installed and flashed with the help of a friend
Siding and exterior foam should get delivered Tuesday so I can get started on that.
Since the last post, I finished taping all the sheathing seams for air sealing and the framers came back for one more day and installed the sub- fascia and some fire blocking. Came out nice and straight and level!
-got the sub panel installed and terminated my feeders in the main panel and sub panel
-laid out all the wall quadplex boxes for the 120v receptacles inside. I’m thinking of alternating every other box on a different circuit. The boxes are about 6.5 feet apart from each other all around so I should have no shortage of 120v outlets!
-Garage door was installed
-started putting drip edge at bottom of the walls over the foundation foam
-today, 12/10/23 I got all 4 windows installed and flashed with the help of a friend
Siding and exterior foam should get delivered Tuesday so I can get started on that.
KansasProud
Well-known member
Everything is looking great! All of your efforts are paying off. I do have a question however, what is the reasoning behind the alternated circuits on every other box? Are you going to have a big load on each wall that requires something like that? I'm assuming you're putting in 20 amp 120 circuits as well.
I was thinking it would be nice to be able to have multiple things plugged in next to each other and not have to worry about two things being on at once maybe with me and a buddy working on something. Still debating the alternating circuits thing if it’s worth doing. It doesn’t cost much extra in wire overall. Maybe double the wire I suppose but not much in the way of $$$.
Correct, planning on all 20A 120v circuits for receptacles and 15A circuits for lighting.
Correct, planning on all 20A 120v circuits for receptacles and 15A circuits for lighting.
KansasProud
Well-known member
I get it. Better safe than sorry, and now's the time to do it if you're going to want / need that down the road if the cost is negligible. When I wired mine, I was dealing with COVID pricing (gouging) and the thought of doubling up on wiring costs was a big deal. Mine is a 25 x 40 so pretty much the same size as yours. I ended up putting each wall on its own circuit (20A) with outlets every 8 feet. The only issue I've ever had tripping breakers is during the winter months. I've got propane heat for the main heat source, but I use the electric oil filled radiators for supplemental work area heat at various spots around the shop. If I've got an oil heater going and I plug in a shop vac, all is well until the air compressor kicks on. In my area, the circuits must be GFCI protected. I ended up using a GFCI outlet at the beginning of each wall circuit instead of the breaker, I don't know if that affects you or not, but just a thought.
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
The build six coming along nicely. Your thinking is the same as what I am doing in the shop portion of my build. I am meeting with my electrician to go over the detailed electrical plan with him. That is one of the things I plan to speak to him about and hoping it doesn't add much to the job. I know I am likely going very overkill on the electric but I would rather have too much than too little. I see nothing wrong with your approach here and think it makes a lot of sense.
After getting all the OSB joints seam taped and windows/door in, the rigid exterior insulation went up. I used 1" XPS foam.
As I got to each exterior receptacle location, I cut in the box opening and set the boxes. The boxes I got have an adjustable depth since they sat under the foam and siding. Zip stretch tape made sealing these up a breeze. This stuff is seriously awesome. I also put a bead of Lexcel behind the box flange/bracket.
Here's a link to the boxes I used. So far I'm happy with them. In retrospect a metal cover may have been the way to go but time will tell.
As I got to each exterior receptacle location, I cut in the box opening and set the boxes. The boxes I got have an adjustable depth since they sat under the foam and siding. Zip stretch tape made sealing these up a breeze. This stuff is seriously awesome. I also put a bead of Lexcel behind the box flange/bracket.
Here's a link to the boxes I used. So far I'm happy with them. In retrospect a metal cover may have been the way to go but time will tell.
After foam went the house wrap and started the siding on the north wall that has no windows. Working on the narrow side where I had to duck under my scaffolding to get the siding to the lower half of the wall was a huge pain. Glad I did this side first. I worked by myself for most of the entire building. I had help from a friend for the gable end soffit panels and getting the vertical panels up on the tops of the end walls. Otherwise all the lap siding and trim and 75% of the soffits was done solo.
I used Gecko Gauges for the lap siding but they don't sell a version to put up the larger reveal 12" wide lap pieces from LP. So I drew up some extensions, 3D printed them on my printer, and bolted them to the top of my gauges to get the reveal that I wanted. These are the red pieces in the picture below. I was worried maybe the 12" wide by 16' long pieces could be too heavy but it worked great! I was also shooting 3"x0.092" hot dipped galvanized siding nails that I ordered from Maze nails. These are extra long for siding nails to reach all the way through the foam and into the studs like LP requires for 1" or less foam. I bought the Metabo NV75A5 siding nailer that has the 3" capacity (only siding nailer I think that has this longer capacity) and it worked fantastic. I was worried with the longer nails I would get edge blow out but it was not a problem for the LP siding!
Siding getting delivered: 16' long pieces through the 18' wide door.
Worked my way through the rear wall, then front wall, then south wall doing soffit, trim, then siding on each.
I used Gecko Gauges for the lap siding but they don't sell a version to put up the larger reveal 12" wide lap pieces from LP. So I drew up some extensions, 3D printed them on my printer, and bolted them to the top of my gauges to get the reveal that I wanted. These are the red pieces in the picture below. I was worried maybe the 12" wide by 16' long pieces could be too heavy but it worked great! I was also shooting 3"x0.092" hot dipped galvanized siding nails that I ordered from Maze nails. These are extra long for siding nails to reach all the way through the foam and into the studs like LP requires for 1" or less foam. I bought the Metabo NV75A5 siding nailer that has the 3" capacity (only siding nailer I think that has this longer capacity) and it worked fantastic. I was worried with the longer nails I would get edge blow out but it was not a problem for the LP siding!
Siding getting delivered: 16' long pieces through the 18' wide door.
Worked my way through the rear wall, then front wall, then south wall doing soffit, trim, then siding on each.
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Coming along nicely. Has to be nice to start to get some of the exterior together.
Ak Jim
Well-known member
Did they have to do any special framing or reinforcement on the front wall? It looks like the walls on either side of the garage door are fairly narrow and I was wondering if anything special was required.
Yes, they are quite narrow at 2' wide on the outside of the building. They are engineered as a portal frame shear wall so they have extra nailing, two concrete embedded hold downs on each side that you can see hanging out in the concrete pictures, two anchor bolts per side. The framers nailed to plan as a minimum and I went back and added some more blocking and nails after the fact as well. Instead of two studs shown in the plan below each corner ended up with 3-4+ full height 2x6 studs just because it was easier for the framers to fill the corners solid.
The structural plans have a specific detail for these walls:
Here is the current 120V receptacle layout I ended up with and am roughing in currently. Each "C + number" is referencing a 20A receptacle circuit. Lighting will be separate and planned a little later. I'll be putting in for now the minimum single light inside on a switch, one outside the side door, and two on the front walls on either side of the garage door. This is most definitely OVERKILL for the number of circuits and my buddy helping me looks at me like I'm crazy when I say I want 5 120V circuits in here . Rather have more than enough and cost is cheap!
"Low" receptacles: ~18" off the floor for chargers, under bench plugs, and pipe heat wrap under the sink as a safety net against freezing
"Mid" receptacles: The typical at ~52" off the floor and 48" up from the top of the concrete curb all the way around.
"High" receptacles: Garage door jackshaft opener, TV duplex box high between the two big windows where I think my primary work bench will go.
Circuit 1: Front parking area, under sink duplex, pressure washer in front corner
Circuit 2: Circuit 1/2 on south wall where primary work area will be
Circuit 3: Circuit 2/2 on south wall where primary work area will be
Circuit 4: Circuit 1/2 on north and east wall surrounding where I plan to put the two-post lift
Circuit 5: Circuit 2/2 on north and east wall surrounding where I plan to put the two-post lift
Circuit 6: Garage door opener and garage door motion sensing light overhead
220V circuits and single unit circuits like air compressor, mini split, welder plugs, etc. I'll lay out later when I have a better idea.
I will also add some overhead receptacles in the ceiling before drywall (probably on their own circuit...) for a couple hanging cord reels.
Edited (had some circuit typos):
. Rather have more than enough and cost is cheap!"Low" receptacles: ~18" off the floor for chargers, under bench plugs, and pipe heat wrap under the sink as a safety net against freezing
"Mid" receptacles: The typical at ~52" off the floor and 48" up from the top of the concrete curb all the way around.
"High" receptacles: Garage door jackshaft opener, TV duplex box high between the two big windows where I think my primary work bench will go.
Circuit 1: Front parking area, under sink duplex, pressure washer in front corner
Circuit 2: Circuit 1/2 on south wall where primary work area will be
Circuit 3: Circuit 2/2 on south wall where primary work area will be
Circuit 4: Circuit 1/2 on north and east wall surrounding where I plan to put the two-post lift
Circuit 5: Circuit 2/2 on north and east wall surrounding where I plan to put the two-post lift
Circuit 6: Garage door opener and garage door motion sensing light overhead
220V circuits and single unit circuits like air compressor, mini split, welder plugs, etc. I'll lay out later when I have a better idea.
I will also add some overhead receptacles in the ceiling before drywall (probably on their own circuit...) for a couple hanging cord reels.
Edited (had some circuit typos):
Last edited:
What is being used to finish the **** joints on your siding? I can't tell from the photos but it looks like some kind of plastic trim piece. Here in North Carolina they just leave them open and flash behind them and after a few years the **** joints look terrible.
They are a prepainted metal joint cover. We have them available at Home Depot here. I’ll put the link below to mine for the 12” siding. LP says you can caulk the joints or flash behind like you’re talking about but then they become a maintenance item with the caulk. Our house has these and they seem to hold up well so I used them here.
7/16 in. x 12 in. Joint Cover 2310060 - The Home Depot
Visit The Home Depot to buy Boise 7/16 in. x 12 in. Joint Cover 2310060
www.homedepot.com
Here’s a picture up close.
Ak Jim
Well-known member
Thx for the details. I was wondering how the engineers delt with this situation.Yes, they are quite narrow at 2' wide on the outside of the building. They are engineered as a portal frame shear wall so they have extra nailing, two concrete embedded hold downs on each side that you can see hanging out in the concrete pictures, two anchor bolts per side. The framers nailed to plan as a minimum and I went back and added some more blocking and nails after the fact as well. Instead of two studs shown in the plan below each corner ended up with 3-4+ full height 2x6 studs just because it was easier for the framers to fill the corners solid.
The structural plans have a specific detail for these walls:
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Thank you.
Your electrical plan doesn't seem crazy to me either. It might to other people but while building new I feel that you are better to have too much than not enough. Never want to have to open up walls to add more later. I have 4 120v circuits and 4 240v circuits in my shop area alone cause I just can't be sure where things are going to go. Apparently also being told that each 240v outlet has to be its own circuit which is a bit annoying to find out.
Jayman17
Well-known member
I like the 12" exposure you chose on your siding, to me it looks a little less busy than a narrower exposure would have looked. I've never seen those metal joint covers before.
csp
Well-known member
A humid day in Colorado would be 20% humidity. We add humidity to the insides of our homes in the winter to make them tolerable.
I’ve ran it through a wall permeability calculator and I can’t go too high of insulation on the inside of the walls because it will mess with the balance of temperature and dew point through the thickness of the wall. From what I calculated I shouldn’t go above R-19 in the cavities with 1” on the exterior. To go to R-23 in the walls there should be thicker foam on the outside for our climate. The drywall and interior paint are also crucial to this system.
@csp is correct. Humidity is very low and we have a whole house humidifier that runs to maintain ~35% in the winter. The garage will have no humidity added and should have minimal coming up from the ground through the slab. Vapor barrier, exterior foundation damp proofing help here as well.
Being in a very dry climate helps a lot!
@csp is correct. Humidity is very low and we have a whole house humidifier that runs to maintain ~35% in the winter. The garage will have no humidity added and should have minimal coming up from the ground through the slab. Vapor barrier, exterior foundation damp proofing help here as well.
Being in a very dry climate helps a lot!