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Completely disappointed with RoundUp

58Yeoman

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You have trees of heaven in AZ? We've got 'em here too, though I haven't seen any on my latest property.
 
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langss

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Go to Tractor Supply and buy this (you-mix version):

1044305
Thank you for posting this. Unfortunately It appears that the Tractor Supply that is local to me does not stock it, you have to order it. However they have another similar product that is 41% Glyphosate. So I'm guessing is just a different brand in a smaller quantity. I have Morning Glory problem that has to go. I don't care if it kills it all together, I just want it stopped from invading every inch of my yard.
 

L5wolvesf

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You have trees of heaven in AZ? We've got 'em here too, though I haven't seen any on my latest property.

Yup, I'm in an area called the Verde Valley and it seems like a third of the verde here is tree of HELL. It was imported to address erosion problems - now it is the problem. I've enjoyed killing them. :uzi:
 

sberry

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Some sprays like 2/4D do want spray at different time of day, they want a slow dry, ru is the middle of the day when the plant is most active. Not all sprays are the same. Most are best after a bit of rain and not super hot out. RU is most effective on healthy plants. Not stressed.
 

sberry

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Gramoxome is a defoliante, it need a bit of additive, it works fast and can be used under other trees, plants etc. Sometimes I use selective types if I can so it doesn't kill grass. Some don't work well if plants are too big.
 

jonshonda

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RU is most effective on healthy plants. Not stressed.

I'm sure other herbicides work this way, but doesn't Round Up actually accelerate the growth of the plant so quickly that it dies? Hence your comment about applying when the plant is healthy. If it can't grow, it won't die. :headscrat
 

sberry

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I am not sure how it works except it goes to the root and they want the plant to be healthy to uptake quick. Drought or stressed plant isn't pumping fluids, they want it taken up quick. Once mixed and sprayed these chemicals have very short half life. I mix and spray immediately. Use it all.
 

yaidunno

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I'm sure other herbicides work this way, but doesn't Round Up actually accelerate the growth of the plant so quickly that it dies? Hence your comment about applying when the plant is healthy. If it can't grow, it won't die. :headscrat

That's actually 2-4D that accelerates the growth, causing death.

Glyphosate (RU) is absorbed by the leaves and inhibits an enzyme involved in the synthesis of amino acids. So the plant must be healthy, and working properly for it to be effective.

I just sprayed around the barn a few weeks back with a 3oz/1gal mix. Day 1-2, plants are looking a much lighter shade of green. Day 3-5, yellowing begins. Day 6-12, plants/weeds become crispy critters and blow away in the wind.
 

sberry

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Some of the grass killers want a lot of water, above 20 gallons acre, up to 50. RU they want dry, 20 max, 10 is better. A list instead of a drench. Drier instead of more, stay within directions. Don't want it running off in to the ground.
Some, mostly grass stuff they are spreader, veg oil so it coats the leaf better. I had a class a while back in oh and hardness, I forget a lot of it now. RU was slightly different, amonium to reduce hardness.
 

kj_mustang

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Harrisonburg, VA
I buy the 41% and use 2 ounces per gallon of water and it works great. I just did a reapplication at the lake today and the stuff we sprayed 10 days ago was dead.

I use the above stuff from Tractor Supply and mix it to a 2% solution so 3 oz per gallon. It will kill most everything.
 
Joined
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Arlington VA
Glyphosate takes time; it may look like it's not working- but if mixed correctly it will. I've drilled and added a bath of ingredients directly into bamboo, and it's taken over 6 months.

For a driveway (as previously mentioned) a Pramitol and Glyphosate mix is good. Glyphosate kills the weed, and Pramitol sterilizes the soil for up to a year. Glyphosate stops acting when it contacts soil, Pramitol stays active. I've read that Pramitol will also kill stuff from the roots, but it's action is slow.

How far Pramitol will migrate due to water I don't know, so Caveat Emptor.

My understanding on Glyphosate is that the concentration doesn't really affect the speed it works; higher concentrations kill more resistant plants.

I spray mostly when I have time, although there's invariably a good/better/best to it that I haven't researched.

For the weed burner thing, it seems to me that the weed's roots are intact so it'll be back in a few weeks.

Mike
 

Ilikeike

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we use the 41% glyphosate (Gly-Star Plus) mixed with 2,4-D AMINE
We buy 30gal containers at a time. Around $700~ $800 in my area.

A day or two before rain we add a pre-emergent like Surflan AS

We've mixed Ammonium Sulfate (AS) with our mix to aid the herbicide absorption into the plant,especially if you're using "hard water"

If you spray a lot
It's a good idea to use a Surfactant also, to release surface tension. I heard old school guys use to add some diesel.
 
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Dragfluid

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I use the generic 41% stuff. Mix it 3 oz to the gallon. This year, I did it the next morning after a nice rain.4-5 days later, you could see that it was working. 10 days and there was dry weeds.

I learned here that it was better to spray when the weed was moist and not starving for water. Makes sense.
 

billspit

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Use Gramoxone if you want to see near immediate results.

Good luck finding it now and be very, very careful using it. I believe it is restricted use now. Diquat will do about the same thing.

I have had little trouble getting glyphosate to kill everything except the waxy *** briar things in my flowerbeds. I just got through using up my stash that was over 25 years old.
 

brokeboater

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North Central Florida
If you want trees dead, core drill them and pour in pure 41% roundup.

In South Florida Brazilian Pepper trees are a real PIA, especially in neighbors yards that don't care. I'd spend several weeks each springs cutting and disposing of BP trees growing in the easement areas. The people behind me had a huge BP. We made an agreement, I'd cut it down, dig up the stump, chop everything into working size pieces and they's haul it to the dump. Just as I lit into the project they informed me they changed their mind, I'd have to haul it off also. I wasn't real happy about it. But, considering the thing was right on the property line a couple inches of the huge trunk belonged to me. I wasn't sure what the results would be but I drilled a couple holes in my BP trunk and gave it a good swig of 41% for several nights in a row. Boy howdy, about a week later, all of the sudden the thing turned yellow then dropped all the leaves, deader than Kelsie's nuts. It really bummed me out so many of the leaves fell into their pool. I've probably chopped down and removed 20 large BP trees in my day. I'm very happy to be living far enough north Mr. Winter takes care of the problem for me.
 

rlitman

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...I drilled a couple holes in my BP trunk and gave it a good swig of 41% for several nights in a row. Boy howdy...

:) Yep, it can work.

The trick is to apply the 41% concentrate to the phloem. The phloem carries fluids down to the roots, and is found right under the bark.

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So, any concentrate you apply outside of the phloem is wasted, and any phloem you miss may leave parts of the plant untreated. Ideally, you want to make a girdling cut around the perimeter of the tree. I use a knife on small stuff, or a hatchet on bigger things, cutting at a downwards angle peeling back a thin layer around the circumference that leaves a flap that funnels the roundup right to the right place.

A faster method is called hand and squirt. Hack in with a downward angle, squirt in the herbicide and remove the axe, allowing the flap to close. One hack per 2" of gauge.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
Glyphosate will kill the top of nutsedge, but the tubar can re-sprout in 1-2 weeks.

There are a few specific chemicals that target nutsedge and other sedge grasses. Expensive.
 

TractorJeff

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Dec 8, 2013
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Elkhorn, WI
So you have them in Illinois?
Do you think we have them in Wisconsin?
"The Tree of Heaven is also known as the Chinese Sumach, Copal-Tree, Stink Tree, and Varnish Tree. It is often confused with sumac; however the Tree of Heaven can be distinguished by the foul odor it emits"
 

Matt M PA

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SE PA
As mentioned earlier, I have a well. The head is in front of the house...the area with the weeds is 100' away. According to the sticker on the electrical box, the well is 500' deep.

I have a neighbor that recommended Ground Clear...and I called Ortho. Scripted answers is all I could get...but they say 25' away and it's safe. Not sure I believe that.

I tried a weed burner, and didn't have stellar results. I understand the process is to make the weeds "shiny"...not to burn them completely away.
 

tonyciambrone

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Nov 4, 2015
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Northern Illinois
My 0.02

Salt Vinegar Soap has never worked for me. I wanted it to, very badly.

41% concentrate diluted is the way to go IMO.

My mother was very concerned when I told her Spectracide does nothing and was a waste of money, and I was going to go Glyphosate and be done with it.

As far as the well water question- depends where you live whether or not this should even concern you. Where I am, there are tens of thousands of acres of conventionally grown corn and soy. You can bet 95% + are spraying 2oz per acre or whatever the going rate is.
 
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