Comprehensive air compressor setup question

[jproaster]

Greetings on this fine Sunday folks.
I've introduced myself in another thread. Now to get down to it.

I'm building a small workshop (12x20) in my backyard to work on motos and...stuff. It's almost finished; already using it some. Now I'm on to putting an add-on behind my shop to house an air compressor. The upper end of my goal is to have hobby level tool performance to run a blast cabinet and ability to clean up moto frames, etc. out of doors.

I'd like to understand what I need from compressor to the end of the hose.
I've read a good bit already. Quality stuff. Just want my own checklist for my application.

Thanks
John

 

[EOC_Jason]

Blasting you want 5HP, or 7.5HP if you can afford it...

Depending on humidity and usage, at the end of your runs you will probably want a regulator / water separator, or maybe even a desiccant canister if you are spraying.

 

[sberry]

A ball valve first, hose to a filter regulator and to a 50 ft hose reel.

 

[jproaster]

So probably 5 hp to a ball valve to regulator then to a hose reel.
That sounds easy enough.
Since the compressor will be contained in an add-on cabinet at rear of building, should the regulator be in that same cabinet? Never had a compressor; don't know much here.
And, ok to control the compressor using the circuit breaker?
Thanks.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would like regulator near the work area so you can easily adjust it as/if needed.
most residential breakers as far as I know aren't rated to be switches , but many people do it.

 

[sberry]

I agree, you can put the reg in a convenient spot. Have seen them screwed right to the valve on the tank too but there can be reasons to customize the location, point of use prior to reel is good. You can use the breaker as disconnecting. In some cases they rarely get switched under load. My comp didn't have the pressure off for decade. in a home garage if it didn't leak might turn it on and use the ball valve as a general disconnect, go away or at night turn it off. Depends on my system design.
That is the point of the local ones you see in the pics I posted, got old hoses, old regs etc and sometimes don't use them every day, simply leave off till needed.

 

[driz]

Metal piping with a couple drops with a drain at the bottom of each. Pipes up high like this illustration so that water droplets condensing along the Wayne stuck and drip into the traps. Mine are simple 3/4” copper with the usual soldered fittings. Cheap compared to black iron but not so cheap today. It does control the condensation though. At the bottom of those water traps I just used cheap outdoor hose bibs. Those are still working fine too.
My compressor is down in the basement which abuts the garage. The high vertical line aids in condensing and controlling the unavoidable water. It’s all about the water when it comes to an air system! Here’s a basic diagram, edit to suit your situation.
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...zdAhULUt8KHaQLCxIQMwiOASgRMBE&iact=mrc&uact=8







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[MichaelP]

Here are some ideas you may find helpful: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1040181#post1040181

 

[sz0k30]

Here is my setup. Simple, but it works. I keep the ball valve closed except when in use.

 

[GrayFlattop]

So probably 5 hp to a ball valve to regulator then to a hose reel.
That sounds easy enough.
Since the compressor will be contained in an add-on cabinet at rear of building, should the regulator be in that same cabinet? Never had a compressor; don't know much here.
And, ok to control the compressor using the circuit breaker?
Thanks.

Keep in mind that there are many "5 H.P." compressors there that aren't really 5 H.P...

If you are going to do a lot of blasting a real 5 HP compressor is pretty much the bare minimum. At 240V the FLA should be in the neighborhood of 22-25 amps. If the FLA on an inexpensive compressor is ~14-15 amps it's really not 5 H.P. It's what we used to refer to as a "fake five".

For a switch, you could use a fused disconnect switch for awhile:

long-term a magnetic starter will give longer contact life, but a disconnect like the one in the photo is rated for motor loads. A disconnect like that is around $35 - better to use that than your breaker.

 

[driz]

My Campbell Hausfield is rated at 6Hpand and IIRC 9.5 CFM@90PSI. Believe me those must be Chinesium horse shoes those ponies have on because it just Ain’t so. I have done a tad of sandblasting and it was a struggle at best. It will run a DA or Longboard sander just [emoji850][emoji850][emoji850]GREAT. Here’s where I que Joe Isuzu ( remember him, “ trunk big as the Grand Canyon”! ).
Keep that all in mind while you read all the lies. Look at the size of the motor. And never go with any sort of oilless design. My next one will be a 2 STAGE ! More pressure longer endurance Nd enough whack to get all those lying claims out of your impact wrench when you get on that rusty frame bolt. Buy once cry once just like using the metal vs plastic line. You’ll be glad you did.


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[EOC_Jason]

My Campbell Hausfield is rated at ��6Hp��and and IIRC 9.5 ��������CFM@90PSI. Believe me those must be Chinesium horse shoes those ponies have on because it just ��Ain’t so. I have done a tad of sandblasting and it was a struggle at best. It will run a DA or Longboard sander just [emoji850][emoji850][emoji850]GREAT. Here’s where I que Joe Isuzu ( remember him, “ trunk big as the Grand Canyon”! ).
Keep that all in mind while you read all the lies. Look at the size of the motor. And never go with any sort of oilless design. My next one will be a 2 STAGE ! More pressure longer endurance Nd enough whack to get all those lying claims out of your impact wrench when you get on that rusty frame bolt. Buy once cry once just like using the metal vs plastic line. You’ll be glad you did.

Sounds like yours was one of those made during the big 'HP inflation' period, which IIRC a big lawsuit occured because of it... In reality those units were basically only 3 HP.

Skip whatever the HP rating says on the brochure... Look at the actual AMP rating on the motor and go by that.

 

[Mr. D]

My air compressor is Champion R-15 2-stage splash lubricated with a 1725 RPM 5 HP 230V single phase electric motor (3 capacitor start) on a 184T Frame. This setup is mounted on a horizontal 60 Gal tank with a top plate. This air compressor is at least 30 years old and bullet proof. I use it to sand blast, paint, run air tools Etc. and never had to wait on air.

 

[CJ7VFR]

Here is my setup. Simple, but it works. I keep the ball valve closed except when in use.

At first I had my regulator and water separator right off of the air tank like you have, but I never seemed to get much condensation in the water separator. I thought oh wow, my compressor does not put out much water at all.

Then I installed the Home Depot (Rapid Air) system to get a few air lines around my garage. I moved the air regulator and the water separator to one of the lines that was about a 50 foot run from the air compressor, and then from there a second line goes up to my air hose reel.

Holy **** does the water separator get filled up fast! I get more water out of the line on hot/humid days, but I always get at least some water in there even if it is cold out.

In my case, a water separator at the beginning of the air line where the air comes out of the tank did nothing for me. I was always getting water at the end of the air line where I didn't want it. I had to always use the screw on water filters at the tool to help keep the water out.

Now, with the water separator farther from the tank, I am taking out much more of the water that was getting into my tools when the separator was at the air tank.

Your mileage may vary, but at least in my case, having the water separator and regulator farther from the tank has improved the quality of the air at the working end of the air hose.

Jim

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

For blasting you want lots of flow so large compressor with large pipe right up to the cabinet. A small compressor is just too frustrating. Depending on how close and/or deaf your neighbors are you may want to staple egg cartons all over the inside of the shed to knock the decibels down...sounds stupid but it works....waiting for someone to shoot this idea down..����

 

[GrayFlattop]

My Campbell Hausfield is rated at 6Hpand and IIRC 9.5 CFM@90PSI. Believe me those must be Chinesium horse shoes those ponies have on because it just Ain’t so.

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Chinesium horse shoes, LOL -

Spot-on. You really need to look at delivered CFM. 15 and up should take care of most needs. More is better

 

[jproaster]

Having read stories here and advrider, I think I'll try to justify the quincy qt54. If Lowes allows my 10% military discount and wife doesn't object (too much), I might...cry once : )

Thanks for sharing all.

John

 

[EOC_Jason]

I'm pretty sure you can stack a 10% military and 10% off coupon (i.e. get a Movers coupon from your post office packet).

 

[driz]

I'm pretty sure you can stack a 10% military and 10% off coupon (i.e. get a Movers coupon from your post office packet).

You’ll be very glad you did if joy end up doing more than VERY small sandblast items. Hey while you’re at it look up building a Franzinator. It will really dampen down the water formation in your machinery. It’s nothing but a 2” steel pipe with an inlet mid way up dumping downward,an outlet on top and drain in the bottom. Mines not done yet ( still welding it up) so I can’t swear to it’s effectiveness but others rave about them. Many use necked down threaded fittings instead. Neater but costs more. Mines made from scrap.
Sandblasting makes water in mine on a hot summer day like you wouldn’t believe. At one point I was squirting water all over when I did my last under car rust removal. Not good!


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[930dreamer]

If you could source a older USA made 7.5 hp compressor that's what I'd do. A vertical tank would be a space saver also. Down side to this is the power requirement, and I have to add finding a three phase compressor is most of the time cheaper.

or a 10 hp IR

https://asheville.craigslist.org/tls/d/10-hp-ingersoll-rand-air/6659550626.html

 

[CraigStu]

Why a regulator? I have never used one except for painting and that I just put in line w/ a couple of quick connects when I needed it.

 

[driz]

For my rig I simply ran a 220v switch ( like a light switch) up into the garage. I simply flip that to turn off on. Maybe not the best way but it’s still working fine since 1999.


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[jproaster]

Just re-reading my thread. Need to get a parts list started. How most of the piping works to eliminate water and have decent air seems simple enough. But for clarity:

(main workspace is 11'x14')

Wise to have a pressure relief valve?
Since I want to run a blast cabinet, run a line outside to blast larger items, run tools, should I have more than one outlet? Extra dedicated line to blast cabinet for example? Just wondering due to the small space.
And there are different types of regulators, filters, water seperators in the TPTools diagram above depending on use- cabinet vs tools. Given my planned air usage, which items would you put in the line(s)?

Still deciding for sure where the ac external containment will be located. But will have a run of verticals before hoses and ball valves as needed.

Thanks for helping.
John