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Compressed air filter/regulator best practices?

will gilmore

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I have a IR 7.5hp 80 gal two stage compressor. I've been running a cheap filter/regulator combo but I'm getting ready to run some air lines and I figure this is a good time to install a better set up.

Here are the components I'm considering:

Air cooler: I have a some 3/4" black iron pipe, tees, and ball valves so I could make a series of up and down lengths with drains at the bottom to cool the air.

Desiccant drier: built or bought (will be added later)

Water separator / filter

Regulator

I'm thinking it will go like this:

Compressor
Flexible line
Black iron air cooler
Water separator / filter
Desiccant drier maybe with output filter in case the desiccant breaks down)
Large diameter gauge for tank pressure
Regulator
Large diameter gauge for line pressure

Thoughts on that order?
Worth building the pipe air cooler?
 
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600SL

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The only thing I might suggest is to see if IR makes an after cooler add on kit for your compressor. Then you can leave out the black iron cooler.

Also add a moisture minder to both the tank and the black iron cooler if you use it.
 
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will gilmore

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15941762794_eb17ec4f2a.jpg


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There is a fan cooled finned tube between the stages. I assume an aftercooler would go between the 2nd stage and the tank? I'll look into it.
 

Rossco

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The biggest, best and most important water Seperator is infact the receiver tank. Locate the unit somewhere cool.

Don't forget an oil Seperators before the dessiccant canister.
 
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404

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The plastic bowls on filters do not explode often, only happened to me once. Might want either metal bowl over covers or put it somewhere body parts are not going to be.
 

600SL

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15941762794_eb17ec4f2a.jpg


16538319476_822e653c60.jpg


There is a fan cooled finned tube between the stages. I assume an aftercooler would go between the 2nd stage and the tank? I'll look into it.

Yes they are an option for good quality industrial compressors over 5HP including IR. I would assume they have a retrofit kit.

Attached is a picture.
 

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RossABQ

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I have a branch off the discharge piping to bypass the regulator. Things like impact wrenches need as much flow and pressure as you can give them, and a regulator (even wide open) is a restriction on output.
 

600SL

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Some of the best are simple, ball valve off tank, pipe to regulator to hose reel and quick connect at tool.

Yes a system like this is all I used in CT for over 20 years. It worked well for strictly air tools and most of the time for sand blasting.

I believe a compressor with an after cooler would have been all I needed to do sandblasting in any weather the North east delivered.

Now if you are painting it becomes a whole different story. If you are charging people good money to paint there cars in humid areas then you really need a refrigerated drier.
 

600SL

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I have a branch off the discharge piping to bypass the regulator. Things like impact wrenches need as much flow and pressure as you can give them, and a regulator (even wide open) is a restriction on output.

I didn't do that in my new shop but I did in my old shop. Problem was I had a 1/4" QD before the regulator. It really should have been a 1/2" QD and I should have feed my 3/4" impact with a 1/2" hose. I'm trying something different in my new shop. with 3/4" black iron loop around a 30 x 48' shop it essentially acts as a 5 gallon tank at any point in the system. There is a significant increase in flow capability over my old system. Also I am going to get a new 3/4" impact gun the one I have is tired. If I find I come up short there will be a "T" with a 1/2" QD available before the regulator.:thumbup:
 

Dragoonmc

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The pipe air cooler is not needed since it would be after the tank the air will be pretty cool already. Biggest thing is an oil water separator/filter and as big as possible piping to the regulator on the hose reel and a ball valve at the tank to shut it off when not in use to prevent blowing up your compressor should something going wrong
 

ford33

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Suggest you install this in an area where you can easily service the filters and access the fittings. You will need to clean/replace filter elements and drain water from the bowls at some point. When you are done, post a picture here so we can learn how to get this all connected in a nice workmanship manner.

Check out the Ingersoll-Rand clearance site for good deals on regulators and filters. They sell NPT thread and British pipe BSP so be careful you are getting the correct thread. Use the Grainger site search engine to get a full description of the IR part number.

http://shop.ingersollrandproducts.com/
 

Mark in Indiana

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For filtering, I'd suggest that you install a particulate filter after the tank, then a coalescing filter after that. pipe in a bypass around the filters with isolation valves so you can shut off the air to the filters for servicing. Automatic draining bowls are a good option for the filters. After the filters, I'd install a refrigerated dryer. The dryer is an expensive option depending how critical your dry air needs are. I've installed 4 of these arrangements over the years. No complaints as long as the guys keep on top of the PM.

In my shop, dry air is important but not critical. I just have a particulate filter and a coalescing filter with manual drains. I religiously drain the filter bowls and tank every time I shut down.
 
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will gilmore

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Thanks for all the input.

I can't find an aftercooler kit for my compressor. I found the parts diagram for the aftercooler and the aftercooler itself (not including fittings, mounts etc) is $380.

Quick search turned up this: http://www.zoro.com/i/G3188306/ 1" NPT fittings $189. 30%-40% off during one of the zoro sales makes me consider it.

Mark - tell me about coalescing filters I was just thinking particulate.

I'm not doing commercial painting but I'd like to have nice clean, so I'm planning for an optimal system even if I don't implement it all right away. I think refrigerated air dryers are off the table for me right now.
 

bcradio

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The pipe air cooler is not needed since it would be after the tank the air will be pretty cool already. Biggest thing is an oil water separator/filter and as big as possible piping to the regulator on the hose reel and a ball valve at the tank to shut it off when not in use to prevent blowing up your compressor should something going wrong

Novice question here:

How do you get oil in your compressed air?
 
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pcmeiners

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Bondo

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Thanks for all the input.

I can't find an aftercooler kit for my compressor. I found the parts diagram for the aftercooler and the aftercooler itself (not including fittings, mounts etc) is $380.

Quick search turned up this: http://www.zoro.com/i/G3188306/ 1" NPT fittings $189. 30%-40% off during one of the zoro sales makes me consider it.

Mark - tell me about coalescing filters I was just thinking particulate.

I'm not doing commercial painting but I'd like to have nice clean, so I'm planning for an optimal system even if I don't implement it all right away. I think refrigerated air dryers are off the table for me right now.

Ayuh,.... I made a cooler for Nothin',....

I found/ had a chunk of 1/2" soft copper tubin', which matched the tubin' comin' out my compressor, 'n goin' into the tank's check-valve,...
Insteada goin' right from the compressor head, to the tank,...
I bent it to go from the compressor head, out 'round the motor, followin' the drive belt back to the big pulley, back to the other end by the motor, ' n finally down into the tank's check-valve,...
In other words, the line from the compressor to the tank, mirrors the fan/ belt shroud, sorta,...
If I'd had the length of the scrap, I'd done another pass by the pulley/ fan,....
 
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will gilmore

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Novice question here:

How do you get oil in your compressed air?

The lubrication oil from the compressor pump can get into the compressed air. Some pumps are oil sealed which I imagine would increase this problem but not sure if those are used for pressure or only vacuum.
 

Dragoonmc

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Yes oil gets into the air from oil sealed compressors which are the higher end units since they are much smoother and quieter
 

7635tools

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Just wondering why you would use black pipe and not galvanized. I seems to me black pipe would rust over time.


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gungatim

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look up franzinator, the guy that developed the DIY air dryer. simple and easy to make and works really well and much more efficient than pipe runs or ac condensors. lots of threads on that but his original design is from the old Hobart welding forums. Evey one I've seen is extremely effective and easy/cheap to make.

oil in lines can be from leaky pump or an FRL unit. I used to run oil in my lines to oil my air tools as that's what all the shops I worked in did, but kind of got away from that. of course you'r not going to paint with that air so I used a small oilless compressor for that.

currently the only thing I run is a regulator and water seperator. filter is on the compressor intake and gets changed/cleaned regularly.
 

404

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Just wondering why you would use black pipe and not galvanized. I seems to me black pipe would rust over time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They do rust and flake. People don't care for some reason.
I did mine in copper water pipe.
 

stonesfan68

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Houston, TX
Thanks for all the input.

I can't find an aftercooler kit for my compressor. I found the parts diagram for the aftercooler and the aftercooler itself (not including fittings, mounts etc) is $380.

Mark - tell me about coalescing filters I was just thinking particulate.

I'm not doing commercial painting but I'd like to have nice clean, so I'm planning for an optimal system even if I don't implement it all right away. I think refrigerated air dryers are off the table for me right now.


IR makes an after cooler kit for the machine. What model is that? I can look up the part number for you.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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will gilmore

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Not much progress but I'm starting to collect parts.


10" gauge. It seems my compressor shuts off around 160 so I hope this works. I love the way it looks.


Regulator.


Hydraulic cooler for after cooler. It's the one pcmeiners recommended (thanks!).


Current setup. I'll keep the gauge which means limiting line pressure to 100psi which is what I use for air tools anyway.

Looking for some filters...

For reference:
Electric Air Compressor, Base Model, Type 30, 2-Stage, Cast iron, 7-1/2 HP, Max. Pressure (PSI) 175, 24.0 Free Air CFM @ 175 PSI, 24 Free Air CFM @ Max. Pressure, Voltage 230, 1 Phase, Amps AC 40.0, Tank (Gal.) 80, Vertical Tank Type, (F)NPT Outlet (In.) 3/4, Oil Capacity (Oz.) 43
 
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will gilmore

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Finally got all the parts I need for my filter / regulator setup and the time to put it together.



Now that I'm looking at it I think I'll center the filter under the regulator. Upper left is threaded connection for big tank gauge shown in previous post. I have a 3/4 npt with plug before the regulator in case I want full tank pressure for something. Anything I'm not thinking of before I solder this up?


Picked up this filter. Parker 07F48AC
 

rick carpenter

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You might want to try something like what I did on my little compressor. I fitted a copper line from the regulator to a bulkhead fitting mounted to the motormount to isolate the coupler from the regulator. The little black wraps are just bumpers.
 

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elba

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I live near the Alabama/Florida border where it is hot and humid. To cool my air I installed two automotive A/C condensers in series between the compressor outlet and the tank with a fan blowing air thru them. Cools the air really good. I don't have any temps to give you but the line that comes off of the 2nd condenser is very cool .
 

pcmeiners

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"look up franzinator, the guy that developed the DIY air dryer. simple and easy to make and works really well and much more efficient than pipe runs or ac condensers."
"frazinators" use a decent amount of energy to cool the air down to remove the moisture, not very efficient. Pipe runs, of decent diameter pipe are very efficient, a/c condensers general are not as they are restrictive.
 
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will gilmore

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"look up franzinator, the guy that developed the DIY air dryer. simple and easy to make and works really well and much more efficient than pipe runs or ac condensers."
"frazinators" use a decent amount of energy to cool the air down to remove the moisture, not very efficient. Pipe runs, of decent diameter pipe are very efficient, a/c condensers general are not as they are restrictive.

I'm planning on an hydraulic cooler based after cooler after I get this filter / regulator setup in place.
 
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