Compressed Air Line System

[jkeylon]

Hey guys, this is my 1st post and I am looking for advice and comments on my in-wall compressed air system design I have here. It's fairly small at approx 8' x 12' (may extend to the left at 8' x 18'), so the main vertical branch I'm thinking 3/4" pipe out to the overhead retractable line. Then as it branches off to each station at 1/2". My choices for pipe are black pipe, galvanized or copper. I'll probably go with black pipe even though it can rust (with galvanized I don't like the sound of particles in the line or turbulence and really rather not get equipped and learn welding copper. So please poke any holes you see in my design. Much appreciated!!
-Joe

Update:
-I plan on using airbrushes, paint guns, air staplers, etc at the stations. At the right side and overhead will all be same but with higher airflow for tires and air tools. I'll regulate and filter the PSI at the outlets as needed.
-Those main horizontal sections are 1/2" so with a 3/4" hole in the right spots I can finesse it through. With an extra coupling or two, along with a couple sections of studs that happen to be larger, it should work just fine.
-The wall is currently open/bare studs...I'm doing the electrical now so I want the air in-wall as well.

 

[bczygan]

Welcome to GJ!

Please put your location in your profile.

What are all the things you are going to hook to it?

Air tools?

Blast Cabinet?

Plasma Cutter?

Paint Gun?

Need an oiler? Dryer? Cooler?

 

[bczygan]

Do a Google search and look at the images for typical layouts:

Lots of threads here on GJ too.

 

[djjsr]

If you plan to put the lines inside the walls, how do you get rigid pipe horizontally through all of the studs?

btw, welcome to the forum!

 

[finn]

Surface mount works best for a working shop.

 

[jkeylon]

I plan on using airbrushes, paint guns, air staplers, etc at the stations. At the right side and overhead will all be same but with higher airflow for tires and air tools. I'll regulate and filter the PSI at the outlets as needed.

 

[jkeylon]

Those main horizontal sections are 1/2" so with a 3/4" hole in the right spots I can finesse it through. With an extra coupling or two, along with a couple sections of studs that happen to be larger, it should work just fine.

 

[jkeylon]

The wall is currently open/bare studs...I'm doing the electrical now so I want the air in-wall as well.

 

[sberry]

Way too busy for a small garage. Start with a hose to a regulator, put a t on and fixed whip for a some tools at a bench and a hose reel for the rest, maybe mini reg for the brushes. If this is to scale this is 100 sq ft, plumbed with air for 4000 square ft of floor space.

 

[jkeylon]

Way too busy for a small garage. Start with a hose to a regulator, put a t on and fixed whip for a some tools at a bench and a hose reel for the rest, maybe mini reg for the brushes. If this is to scale this is 100 sq ft, plumbed with air for 4000 square ft of floor space.

This system provides air outlets to the 2 main use stations in my garage (I may remove the middle port on the right side as it's not that necessary).
Talking scale, this thing is only 8' H x 12' L on a wall that's 8' H x 22' L, see cuts in pipe on design (shows basic setup not exact length). And to clarify, this is a straight-on view of the open wall with ceiling at top...not birds eye.
?

 

[ford33]

You have five compressed air quick disconnects in an 8 x12 foot garage. That's a lot and if you are running this in the wall that will be many fittings to possibly and eventually leak. I prefer airlines outside the wall as it allows easy changes to the piping. If you have leaks they are easy to fix.

How about considering one overhead connection for a retractable hose reel on the ceiling and one near a workbench.

Make sure you incline the air lines to a low point and put a shut-off drain valve in the line to drain water from the piping.

Good luck and welcome to GJ.

 

[wingerr]

What are the pros and cons of hard lines vs. something like a RapidAir kit?

 

[jkeylon]

You have five compressed air quick disconnects in an 8 x12 foot garage. That's a lot and if you are running this in the wall that will be many fittings to possibly and eventually leak. I prefer airlines outside the wall as it allows easy changes to the piping. If you have leaks they are easy to fix.

How about considering one overhead connection for a retractable hose reel on the ceiling and one near a workbench.

Make sure you incline the air lines to a low point and put a shut-off drain valve in the line to drain water from the piping.

Good luck and welcome to GJ.

Again...
Garage is approx 25' x 30'. This is not a birds eye view. Only reason for many quick connects is for options and different project stations. In-wall plan is to do it right the first time so it doesn't need leak fixes. That quick connect at the top before the expansion cap is for just that...a retractable hose reel, none needed at work bench. The cap is what I need for future expansion. Yes, part of the plan is to angle horizontal pipe lengths to drain toward relief valve (as seen in bottom right corner).

 

[sberry]

The air kit is ok but a garage like this can do pretty well with a piece or 2 of 1/2 pipe made in to a simple manifold.

 

[jkeylon]

What are the pros and cons of hard lines vs. something like a RapidAir kit?

I like rapid air, but always consider it more for a nice shiny exterior installations. My plans are hidden and flush for keeping my man cave silent but deadly.
I especially like their aluminum block manifolds, pretty slick.

 

[CNGsaves]

One time I would . . . . partially . . . agree with SBerry. The 3/4" inch "mainline" is way overkill on such a small airline system. Just use 1/2" pipe everywhere.

No problem with OP wanting to Do It Once, and Do It Right with his plan for in-wall airline system. Other than downgrade to 1/2" line, I'd say go for it.

 

[jkeylon]

Ok, I'm cool with having it all 1/2". That simplifies all my connections and plans. I was thinking about the longer piece that may/may not reach the other side of garage. It's probably overkill.
Thanks!

 

[iajonesy]

Since you live in an area that has been known to shake on occasion,I would not recommend having your air lines in the walls. It will look very nice until you develop a leak, then you have to tear out the whole thing to even find that leak. External mounting is the only way to go.

Mike

 

[nine4gmc]

Will your drop leg drains be in-wall as well, how do you plan to drain the drops and access the section shutoff valves?

Hate to be a Debbie downer but I agree with the rest when they say put it outside the wall. Too many things to go wrong, even with a properly planned system.

 

[Schurkey]

1. Just about all black iron pipe is made--and threaded--in China.

2. The threading is piss-poor. Dies are worn, or the threading is done "too fast". The threads are rough.

3. Even pipe thread sealer won't seal it sometimes. I've been told that pipe tape works better than chemical sealer in this application. I don't know--my system has leaked a little for ten years and I can't stand the thought of pulling it all down to replace the Teflon paste with Teflon tape, so I just run the compressor longer, and ignore the quiet hissing as I close up the shop for the night. Next morning, the air tank is empty.

4. Half the reason to use metal pipe or metal tubing is so the compressed air can shed heat--and therefore moisture. If it's in the walls (even without insulation packed around it), it's not going to shed heat very well.

5. Go ahead with the 3/4 pipe. It will not have to be re-done later if your priorities change, or if the next owner of the house uses more air than you did.

6. Don't forget to install a flexible section between the vibrating compressor and the pipe anchored to the wall. I have a double-loop of copper tubing, but (large-diameter, heat-resistant) hose could also be used.

7. Remember to angle the horizontal pipe so water drains away from the air tools.

8. I really like the ball valve moisture drains. I used brass draincocks, but I found that they don't seal air-tight without excessive torque on the handle.

 

[DC73]

I just plumbed my workshop with copper lines inside the walls. I found it easier to run the main pipe through the attic space and then drop down into each stud bay.

There is some good info in the thread I started: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291084

I also considered RapidAir but one issue I had was how to make the turn to come out of the wall. The minimum bending radius was 6" and my walls were 2" x 4" construction. To use RapidAir, I was going to have to have some type of 90 degree connection inside the walls.

Good luck,

DC

 

[Shootingblanks]

Old pic of my system. I've added air filters and a larger gauge by air hose real to read pressure. 1/2" black pipe does the job fine.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174658

 

[j-guenth]

Loop the system for a better balanced air pressure at each drop.

 

[tcianci]

Now that all the experts have weighed in on your design, you may have a hard time believing that your original idea was just fine. Black iron won't leak if you put it together correctly. Many of the same guys who are telling you about leaks down the road, have been running 1000's of cubic feet of natural gas through black iron in the walls and basements of their houses for decades and never give it a 2nd thought. Now I know that NG is run at minimum pressures compared to the air but, believe it or not, a leak is a leak and you can assemble and test your system in advance of enclosing it. You will be fine.

Do remember to pitch the lines to a point where you can draw off condensation when needed and install a main shutoff to isolate the system from the compressor.

 

[nine4gmc]

Natural Gas is not only lower pressure, it's dry. The air from the compressor is far from dry, and higher pressure. It WILL require more maintenance than a NG pipe line for sure, how much... but put it in the walls and be sure to let us know how it works out for you.

 

[plow]

I use CPVC.









































Sorry guys. Someone had to do it.

 

[Jeeper]

I also considered RapidAir but one issue I had was how to make the turn to come out of the wall. The minimum bending radius was 6" and my walls were 2" x 4" construction. To use RapidAir, I was going to have to have some type of 90 degree connection inside the walls.

DC

I have rapidair on order form northern. It's the 3/4" maxline kit. I searched all the gj threads and it was a tight race between copper and rapid air. I ended up going rapid air because i can get the kit and pretty much there. 3 drops will work. I like the manifolds that it comes with. Plan on doing the in wall installation. Had the same question as DC and found the following picture on the rapid air site that I plan to use.

 

[jkeylon]

Will your drop leg drains be in-wall as well, how do you plan to drain the drops and access the section shutoff valves?

Hate to be a Debbie downer but I agree with the rest when they say put it outside the wall. Too many things to go wrong, even with a properly planned system.

My simple solution for drainage is to just slope that entire lower horizontal section downward to the drain valve.