Compressed Air Lines - Pressure Loss

[dwall174]

Oops

Accidental Post

 

[SilverJimmy]

In a home shop I think it’s just a good practice to both isolate the compressor by shutting a valve at the tank outlet and also shut off power to the pump. As a tool dealer for 30 years I saw the aftermath from a air compressor running continuously after a hose or fitting failed right after a shop closed on Friday night and it wasn’t noticed until Monday morning. Usually a smoldering smoky mess, followed by a panicked call from the shop owner to me, inquiring if I had a new one in stock cuz none of his employees would work without air! I ALWAYS shut the valve and kill the power, so small leaks are no concern.

 

[TonyG109]

I just found out about this stuff and gave it a try. It works much better than soap and water. It's slightly viscous and a bit slimy which creates a nice film over whatever your checking for leaks instead of quickly running off like soap and water tends to do.

Big Blu leak detector

Best Gas & Refrigerant Leak Detectors | Big Blu

The Big Blu family of leak detectors are used by HVAC/R professionals worldwide. Big Blu finds the smallest leaks and can be used with any type of gas.

www.refrigtech.com

 

[mike93lx]

I just found out about this stuff and gave it a try. It works much better than soap and water. It's slightly viscous and a bit slimy which creates a nice film over whatever your checking for leaks instead of quickly running off like soap and water tends to do.

Big Blu leak detector

Best Gas & Refrigerant Leak Detectors | Big Blu

The Big Blu family of leak detectors are used by HVAC/R professionals worldwide. Big Blu finds the smallest leaks and can be used with any type of gas.

www.refrigtech.com

Megabubble is good stuff too

 

[TonyG109]

This thread motivated me to chase down the leaks in my system. The biggest leak so far was unexpected. The water level indicator window on the regulator was leaking pretty bad. I haven't attempted to fix this yet. I doubt I'll be able to find a new seal so I'll have to get creative.

EDIT: I spoke to soon. It looks like Grainger carries a repair kit. I'll may have to give it a try if a little judiciously applied Permatex doesn't work!

 

[KenC]

Hi all,

I've just installed a fixed copper air run for my home workshop and am trying to debug the cause of losing pressure over time. Attached is a schematic and here are a few additional specs:

* Total network is 200ft 3/4" copper including 4 drip legs and a handmade aftercooler
* Drip legs and drops in aftercooler are reduced and use 1/2" ball valves, 8 valves in total
* System includes two 25' retractable hoses, 3/8" ID
* Hose reels have fixed connections, 7 other access points are female quick connects

I have given the entire system about 6 baths in soapy water - I found a few leaks in threaded connections and have repaired them, and I'm now out of places to check. I'm still losing about 15 PSI over a period of 12 hours. That said, my first question is: Should I expect my air lines to hold nearly ideal pressure or should will even a tight system have some loss?

I'd be glad to share my debug steps and photos if helpful. Thanks for your thoughts.

Well, no leak is a good leak but yours isn't one I'd spend much time on. Mainly because I've started shutting off the main valve from the tank when not in use. I've had leaks appear, BIG ones when I wasn't in the shop. As others mentioned, making compressed air is expensive and I no longer want to risk my compressor running non-stop due to a leak. I'm often not in my shop for a few days at a time and it's too far from the house to hear the compressor. I do keep the tank pressurized so there isn't a wait when air is needed.