unpredictable1
Well-known member
Bought this for less than half price, I powered it up for the first time!
Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
- Start date
DS-21
Active member
I guess you guys have not seen too many Atlas Copco's in the US, when you have so many good domestic ones to chose from?
The two stage is a 200psi from 1965, all original down to the hoses, except for the pressure gauge which I crashed some years ago. Anyone have an original matching numbers gauge lying around
The single stage 100psi in the background is from the start a 1947 Greiff, but I mounted a 1962 Atlas' compressor on it when the original DeVilbiss gave up some 15 years ago. Both works and sounds great, at least in my ears
PS. that home made after-cooler was a damn good idea! My two-stage's air is a *little* hot when I turn it up to 200+psi!
The two stage is a 200psi from 1965, all original down to the hoses, except for the pressure gauge which I crashed some years ago. Anyone have an original matching numbers gauge lying around
The single stage 100psi in the background is from the start a 1947 Greiff, but I mounted a 1962 Atlas' compressor on it when the original DeVilbiss gave up some 15 years ago. Both works and sounds great, at least in my ears
PS. that home made after-cooler was a damn good idea! My two-stage's air is a *little* hot when I turn it up to 200+psi!
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SSFOS
Member
Hello Guys,
First time poster. I inherited a compressor from my Grandfather when he passed away 10 years ago. Since then it has not had any service done on it. I guess what I am asking is if anyone can help me determine what compressor it is, or any specs on it? It has a Dayton motor, but I can't locate any other tags or labels anywhere.
SSFOS
First time poster. I inherited a compressor from my Grandfather when he passed away 10 years ago. Since then it has not had any service done on it. I guess what I am asking is if anyone can help me determine what compressor it is, or any specs on it? It has a Dayton motor, but I can't locate any other tags or labels anywhere.
SSFOS
Attachments
I can't remember where I got the idea from, either this board or some other one on the net. But it works relatively well - after a cycle, the "input" line to the cooler is way too hot to touch (even after 2 or so feet of the 3/4 copper just at the cooler fitting), the output to the tank is still at ambient.
Steve in Mi
Well-known member
Hello Guys,
First time poster. I inherited a compressor from my Grandfather when he passed away 10 years ago. Since then it has not had any service done on it. I guess what I am asking is if anyone can help me determine what compressor it is, or any specs on it? It has a Dayton motor, but I can't locate any other tags or labels anywhere.
SSFOS
Looks very much like an older Sears/Campbell-Hausfield. The head gasket has been replaced by one that restricts the air cooling about the cylinders and I suspect the inlet air filter is a modification as well. A hydrostatic test of the receiver is the best indicator of its condition.
Can't make out the motor tag or I could estimate the CFM output. I'd only compare the HP, amps @ Volts and pump rpm to get close to the expected output.
Last edited:
SSFOS
Member
Steve,
Any idea where I might be able to find an ID tag/plate? Or is it not even worth the time and effort to rebuild/restore?
Any idea where I might be able to find an ID tag/plate? Or is it not even worth the time and effort to rebuild/restore?
Steve in Mi
Well-known member
2 years ago I was able to buy parts for my 1971 1 HP portable air compressor (4 reed valves, 3 gaskets and 2 inlet breather felt filters ~ $17. total) at Sears. The same parts were also available at C-H for a couple of dollars less. The decal on the tank had the compressor specifications on it as well as a Model number. Without a model number one would probably have to remove the head to measure bore & stroke and query C-H for correct parts.
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murph64
Well-known member
10CFM 150+ PSI York AC compressor under the hood of my Jeep, with a 2 gallon tank above the rear axle. While I'd like a compressor in the garage, I don't have the space, and this setup has worked more than well enough for the past 7 or 8 years...
Andy
Andy
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Last edited:
DS-21
Active member
That was a cool setup, I guess you have a matching air horn too
murph64
Well-known member
That was a cool setup, I guess you have a matching air horn too
Nope, not yet...But I do want to pick up a Grover Stuttertone
one of these days...Right now, I have an easy access QC fitting -
Attachments
twostory
Well-known member
Is the B&M Supercooler rated for 200 psi?
I really like your setup and would like to copy it, can you tell me the part number for the cooler (at summit) and where you got the 230v fan? (part # / supplier)
Thanks in advance
BMM-70266 is the summit part number, oem part number 70266. The manufacturer’s site says they are tested to 200psi. Also one of the few I found that had larger 1/2" npt fittings.
That's the 8x11 size, they have one that’s 11x11 as well. The fan is a 230v with capacitor model I got off ebay - I'm not sure of part#, I'll have to look. I remember it being several times cheaper then its new cost, and blew hundreds of CFM. I wanted something 230v as well so I could just wire it parallel to the pressure switch on the motor. Since its over a few months ebay removed the auction page so I can't get you more until I get that part#, sorry.
Was thinking of adding a 2nd cooler in parallel for increased efficiency. Not sure yet, I'm fussing with my filter setup as well.
That's the 8x11 size, they have one that’s 11x11 as well. The fan is a 230v with capacitor model I got off ebay - I'm not sure of part#, I'll have to look. I remember it being several times cheaper then its new cost, and blew hundreds of CFM. I wanted something 230v as well so I could just wire it parallel to the pressure switch on the motor. Since its over a few months ebay removed the auction page so I can't get you more until I get that part#, sorry.
Was thinking of adding a 2nd cooler in parallel for increased efficiency. Not sure yet, I'm fussing with my filter setup as well.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Yet to complete my compressor setup (95% complete), as it will be used at a different location, comprises of a 5 Hp Curtis Masterline compressor (18-21 cfm) 80 gallon tank, temporary hookup.
Compressor running, showing 21.2 amps on ammeter
[/IMG]
http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab84/pcmeiners/?action=view¤t=DSC_00640001.jpg&newest=#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs852.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab84%2Fpcmeiners%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC_00600001-1.jpg
Manufacturer's specs...
http://www.fscurtis.com/products/reciprocating-compressors/ml/index.htm
Modifications.........................................................
Removed the original small 10 micron air intake filter, created a 1” manifold to use with two larger intake filters (2 micron), 4 times total the original filter size, less intake loss, less filter changes.
http://www.ecompressedair.com/filtration/filter-assemblies/air-intake-filter-assemblies.aspx
Purchased a Hoffman enclosure (8”x10”x4”) for power contactor, added on/off switch, hour meter, and LED Ammeter (Ebay. Choose to install the ammeter as it is cool, and a friend’s compressor burnt through 3 motors, and consumed twice the normal current for months at his business before his issue was solved.
The LED display ammeter is similar to the Ebay link below. If anyone wants an LED ammeter, get one rated to the highest load at motor can pull (complete short, motor in flames draw). Aside from the meter you will need a small voltage supply, I used a small power supply from a laptop computer, just about any power supply will do.
With an ammeter you can tell a good deal about a compressor's health, once you have a baseline during normal operations. Baseline would be current draw with compressor belt off, startup current, current use at specific pressures, current draw just before a filter change, current draw during utility voltage drops ect; once you have a baseline, if the current draw deviates you need to look for a cause.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Three-In-On...269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a15e1125d
DIY compressor Intercooler…
Intercooler between the first and second stage, consisting of an Allison DB-1290 (24.0 x 19.0 x 1.5 Overall size), with two coalescent filters (all 1” piping); cooler is mounted in front of the belt guard. The intercooler cools the air from the first stage (approx 275° F ) to ambient room temperature, resulting in roughly 15-20% more efficiency as the air is denser entering the second stage, and roughly a 50% moisture drop out. Two coalescent filters where installed just below the Allison cooler, the second small filter was installed in case the main water filter’s automatic drain fails, as water entering the second stage could cause severe damage; on a low humidity day (37% for summer in NYC is low), 10 minutes running (timed), approx. 1/2 cup of water/oil drops out; on a high humidity day over 1 cup will drop out in that time. Allison cooler picked up on Ebay for $40.00 delivered (I was lucky); most of the filters/valve/gauges ect. purchased on Ebay.
Shows DB1290 intercooler and auto drains...
http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab84/pcmeiners/?action=view¤t=DSC_00640001.jpg
Used as an aftercooler off the second stage, this unit would drop the temperature of the air entering the receiver to ambeint temperature, dropping most of the moisture out. Again, some sort of automatic water removal would be needed, as extended compressor use with a cooler such as this would produce far more water than normal. Approx water drop out on a humid summer day with extended use, such as car painting about 1 gallon.
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/DB-1290.html
Pick up db 1292 on Ebay for a friend with a 15 hp compressor
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/DB-1292.html
Moisture, page 26..
http://www.pneumatic-source.com/articles/pneumatictechnician.pdf
Efficiency, intercooler…
http://books.google.com/books?id=NG...sult&ct=result&resnum=10#v=onepage&q=&f=false
DIY compressor Aftercooler….
Consists of two Thermal Transfer Products, tube heat exchangers mounted on a rectangular mounting made with 1 1/2" angle iron. The first is an air to air exchanger, (Ebay for $30.00) which cools the second stage compressor output from approx 275° F to ambient room temperature. The output of the first exchanger goes to a second (water to air) heat exchanger, water supplied by city or well water approx 50-55, which drops out most of the remaining moisture. I may place a refrigeration dryer unit after this. Aftercooler system has it own set of moisture coalescence filters.
I did not go with refrigeration dryer directly, as the compressor output temperature is much higher than the recommended input temperature of a refrigeration unit, cost to run such a unit increases with input temperature. Water cost to run my unit should be small as the first heat exchange removes the most heat, using a small 4 amp 12v blower. The first stage is air cooled, was not necessary, as the water cooled stage could do the job, but the air to air unit was purchased on Ebay for very little, and I figure the air cooling is cheaper than the added water cost. Along with the aftercooler I have a control box which supplies 12/24vdc, for the blower, a 1" asco water valve (opens when compressor starts), for the use of solenoid valves to dump water from the coalescence filters if need be.
Aftercooler assembly, to be attached at my new shop...
http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab84/pcmeiners/?action=view¤t=DSC_00680001.jpg&newest=1
Air cooled exchanger, equal to but not model k-1024, designed to reheat cooled compressed air,
http://www.thermaltransfer.com/pdf/individual/K.pdf
AB-405-B4-0, water cooled....
http://www.thermaltransfer.com/pdf/individual/_AB.pdf
On my compressor setup, I used 1”copper L pipe for the following reasons…
Ease of installation, smooth inside surface of pipes, especially fittings. Since I was not able to obtain/use all optimal fittings such as long radius elbows, and used branch flows in tees (not recommended), I increased the recommend pipe size of ¾” to 1”, which dropped the friction loss and pressure loss, pressure loss by a factor of 4. Had to debate the use of solder, as the heat output of my two stage compressor, said to be approx 275° F, (silver content solder melts approx. 425). Be aware single stage compressor output temperature is considerably higher.
As is, using the calculator below, for 110 feet of pipe in my system, including the piping in my intercooler and aftercooler, gives me a 0.4 psi pressure loss, a friction loss of 0.02, not including a .40 and .5 micron filters, which both should total a .8 PSI loss, as they are also oversized.
Great little pressure/friction loss calculators….
http://www.freecalc.com/gasfram.htm
http://www.kaeser.com/Online_Services/Toolbox/Pressure_drop/default.asp
On the tank, I removed the two 2" ports caps on the back side of the horizontal tank, added reducers to port down to 1" pipe for the intake from the compressor output, and output from the tank. The original input from the compressor had a very restrictive intake checkvalve, looks like 1/2", tank output was also restrictively small. On Ebay I purchase 6' of 1" stainless braid/teflon flex hose and fittings, used for vibration isolation on all three ports, though with the low rpm of the compressor, vibration is low, (not in place yet). Teflon is needed on the compressor output due to the high temperature. Input to the tank equipped with a 40 micron filter, output has a 5 micron filter and a high flow regulator. Replaced the Square D pressure switch with a Bradley 836t-t253j. Picked up four used Barry Stabl-Levl SLM-6A anti vibration mounts, hockey pucks will be sufficient.
Purchased Teflon flex from this seller, guy sells smaller pieces/sizes
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-STAINLESS-STE...0?hash=item1e51344ed3&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
Check valves....
My first choice for a compressor discharge check, high flow, dampening..
http://www.kingstonvalves.com/23/Products/17/2/parts_details.aspx
Next best...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aag/main?i...etplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&seller=A17VS4Z36UDX1I.
I milled out the check valve seats on these .
http://ubw.thomasnet.com/viewitems/industrial-lift-check-valves/model-53-lift-check-valve?
or on ebay
There is a concept copper is better to use on piping then steel pipe as it has better cooling ability, not true. Copper along with aluminum fins yes, drawn tubing no.
Copper conducts heat better then steel pipe but conduction and radiation are different metal characteristics. Comparing copper to steel (cold rolled), the steel is equal, if not better as a heat radiator. Copper is just easier to assembly and has less friction
http://www.optotherm.com/emiss-table.htm
Overall cool/fun to build, but costly in both time and money.
Compressor running, showing 21.2 amps on ammeter
http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab84/pcmeiners/?action=view¤t=DSC_00640001.jpg&newest=#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs852.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab84%2Fpcmeiners%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC_00600001-1.jpg
Manufacturer's specs...
http://www.fscurtis.com/products/reciprocating-compressors/ml/index.htm
Modifications.........................................................
Removed the original small 10 micron air intake filter, created a 1” manifold to use with two larger intake filters (2 micron), 4 times total the original filter size, less intake loss, less filter changes.
http://www.ecompressedair.com/filtration/filter-assemblies/air-intake-filter-assemblies.aspx
Purchased a Hoffman enclosure (8”x10”x4”) for power contactor, added on/off switch, hour meter, and LED Ammeter (Ebay. Choose to install the ammeter as it is cool, and a friend’s compressor burnt through 3 motors, and consumed twice the normal current for months at his business before his issue was solved.
The LED display ammeter is similar to the Ebay link below. If anyone wants an LED ammeter, get one rated to the highest load at motor can pull (complete short, motor in flames draw). Aside from the meter you will need a small voltage supply, I used a small power supply from a laptop computer, just about any power supply will do.
With an ammeter you can tell a good deal about a compressor's health, once you have a baseline during normal operations. Baseline would be current draw with compressor belt off, startup current, current use at specific pressures, current draw just before a filter change, current draw during utility voltage drops ect; once you have a baseline, if the current draw deviates you need to look for a cause.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Three-In-On...269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a15e1125d
DIY compressor Intercooler…
Intercooler between the first and second stage, consisting of an Allison DB-1290 (24.0 x 19.0 x 1.5 Overall size), with two coalescent filters (all 1” piping); cooler is mounted in front of the belt guard. The intercooler cools the air from the first stage (approx 275° F ) to ambient room temperature, resulting in roughly 15-20% more efficiency as the air is denser entering the second stage, and roughly a 50% moisture drop out. Two coalescent filters where installed just below the Allison cooler, the second small filter was installed in case the main water filter’s automatic drain fails, as water entering the second stage could cause severe damage; on a low humidity day (37% for summer in NYC is low), 10 minutes running (timed), approx. 1/2 cup of water/oil drops out; on a high humidity day over 1 cup will drop out in that time. Allison cooler picked up on Ebay for $40.00 delivered (I was lucky); most of the filters/valve/gauges ect. purchased on Ebay.
Shows DB1290 intercooler and auto drains...
http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab84/pcmeiners/?action=view¤t=DSC_00640001.jpg
Used as an aftercooler off the second stage, this unit would drop the temperature of the air entering the receiver to ambeint temperature, dropping most of the moisture out. Again, some sort of automatic water removal would be needed, as extended compressor use with a cooler such as this would produce far more water than normal. Approx water drop out on a humid summer day with extended use, such as car painting about 1 gallon.
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/DB-1290.html
Pick up db 1292 on Ebay for a friend with a 15 hp compressor
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/DB-1292.html
Moisture, page 26..
http://www.pneumatic-source.com/articles/pneumatictechnician.pdf
Efficiency, intercooler…
http://books.google.com/books?id=NG...sult&ct=result&resnum=10#v=onepage&q=&f=false
DIY compressor Aftercooler….
Consists of two Thermal Transfer Products, tube heat exchangers mounted on a rectangular mounting made with 1 1/2" angle iron. The first is an air to air exchanger, (Ebay for $30.00) which cools the second stage compressor output from approx 275° F to ambient room temperature. The output of the first exchanger goes to a second (water to air) heat exchanger, water supplied by city or well water approx 50-55, which drops out most of the remaining moisture. I may place a refrigeration dryer unit after this. Aftercooler system has it own set of moisture coalescence filters.
I did not go with refrigeration dryer directly, as the compressor output temperature is much higher than the recommended input temperature of a refrigeration unit, cost to run such a unit increases with input temperature. Water cost to run my unit should be small as the first heat exchange removes the most heat, using a small 4 amp 12v blower. The first stage is air cooled, was not necessary, as the water cooled stage could do the job, but the air to air unit was purchased on Ebay for very little, and I figure the air cooling is cheaper than the added water cost. Along with the aftercooler I have a control box which supplies 12/24vdc, for the blower, a 1" asco water valve (opens when compressor starts), for the use of solenoid valves to dump water from the coalescence filters if need be.
Aftercooler assembly, to be attached at my new shop...
http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab84/pcmeiners/?action=view¤t=DSC_00680001.jpg&newest=1
Air cooled exchanger, equal to but not model k-1024, designed to reheat cooled compressed air,
http://www.thermaltransfer.com/pdf/individual/K.pdf
AB-405-B4-0, water cooled....
http://www.thermaltransfer.com/pdf/individual/_AB.pdf
On my compressor setup, I used 1”copper L pipe for the following reasons…
Ease of installation, smooth inside surface of pipes, especially fittings. Since I was not able to obtain/use all optimal fittings such as long radius elbows, and used branch flows in tees (not recommended), I increased the recommend pipe size of ¾” to 1”, which dropped the friction loss and pressure loss, pressure loss by a factor of 4. Had to debate the use of solder, as the heat output of my two stage compressor, said to be approx 275° F, (silver content solder melts approx. 425). Be aware single stage compressor output temperature is considerably higher.
As is, using the calculator below, for 110 feet of pipe in my system, including the piping in my intercooler and aftercooler, gives me a 0.4 psi pressure loss, a friction loss of 0.02, not including a .40 and .5 micron filters, which both should total a .8 PSI loss, as they are also oversized.
Great little pressure/friction loss calculators….
http://www.freecalc.com/gasfram.htm
http://www.kaeser.com/Online_Services/Toolbox/Pressure_drop/default.asp
On the tank, I removed the two 2" ports caps on the back side of the horizontal tank, added reducers to port down to 1" pipe for the intake from the compressor output, and output from the tank. The original input from the compressor had a very restrictive intake checkvalve, looks like 1/2", tank output was also restrictively small. On Ebay I purchase 6' of 1" stainless braid/teflon flex hose and fittings, used for vibration isolation on all three ports, though with the low rpm of the compressor, vibration is low, (not in place yet). Teflon is needed on the compressor output due to the high temperature. Input to the tank equipped with a 40 micron filter, output has a 5 micron filter and a high flow regulator. Replaced the Square D pressure switch with a Bradley 836t-t253j. Picked up four used Barry Stabl-Levl SLM-6A anti vibration mounts, hockey pucks will be sufficient.
Purchased Teflon flex from this seller, guy sells smaller pieces/sizes
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-STAINLESS-STE...0?hash=item1e51344ed3&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
Check valves....
My first choice for a compressor discharge check, high flow, dampening..
http://www.kingstonvalves.com/23/Products/17/2/parts_details.aspx
Next best...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aag/main?i...etplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&seller=A17VS4Z36UDX1I.
I milled out the check valve seats on these .
http://ubw.thomasnet.com/viewitems/industrial-lift-check-valves/model-53-lift-check-valve?
or on ebay
There is a concept copper is better to use on piping then steel pipe as it has better cooling ability, not true. Copper along with aluminum fins yes, drawn tubing no.
Copper conducts heat better then steel pipe but conduction and radiation are different metal characteristics. Comparing copper to steel (cold rolled), the steel is equal, if not better as a heat radiator. Copper is just easier to assembly and has less friction
http://www.optotherm.com/emiss-table.htm
Overall cool/fun to build, but costly in both time and money.
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independentrider
Banned
beautiful garage! sorry about the ford emblem. Every rose has its thorns. Just kidding still great.
DS-21
Active member
Re: speaking of coolers
While browsing our equivalent to craigslist I found this one...looks like an IR type 30 compressor, and some sort of cooler!! The id tag says it's a 1973 model. Owner claims it sat unused for some thirty years and I'm prepared to beleive him when I study the photo. What do you guys think, I mean is this a common cooler setup??
While browsing our equivalent to craigslist I found this one...looks like an IR type 30 compressor, and some sort of cooler!! The id tag says it's a 1973 model. Owner claims it sat unused for some thirty years and I'm prepared to beleive him when I study the photo. What do you guys think, I mean is this a common cooler setup??
Attachments
Last edited:
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Look like it sat around...
Added coolers of sufficient size are not common, as they are an expensive option. On my compressor, there was a factory installed intercooler as many high end compressors have, but all it consisted of a 5/8" OD finned tube approx 30", which lowered the the temperature maybe 60°, no way you could touch the output end, no way it could drop out any moisture, or appreciably lower the air density.
The fan mounted cooler on this picturered unit is a second stage output cooler (aftercooler), which will drop out water, it has been stated aftercoolers will remove up to 70% of the water. If the cooler coil is close or larger then the Allison DB-1290, it will do a good job.
Looks in good condition, much better quaility then the newer IRs, looks like a pressure oil feed, which is a plus, likely but guessing it has real main shaft bearings. Make sure it it the correct phase you need, and that repair parts are still obtainable; get model number and search for manuals and parts on google before buying; many older models compressors are still well supported. If it is not the correct phase motor, at a decent price, still worth a motor change out. I would also open the front inspection port on the tank, and look at the tank condition.
If you purchase this, rig a coalescent filter which has an automatic drain on it (Wilkerson,Parker), before it hits the tank, cheap on Ebay, my 1" water filters went for $25-50, 3/4" units are cheaper. Do not go lower then 3/4", too restrictive. I would not pay until the owner powers it up. Be warned that compressor is heavy, plan on removing the compressor head and motor before moving, makes it a lot easier.
Added coolers of sufficient size are not common, as they are an expensive option. On my compressor, there was a factory installed intercooler as many high end compressors have, but all it consisted of a 5/8" OD finned tube approx 30", which lowered the the temperature maybe 60°, no way you could touch the output end, no way it could drop out any moisture, or appreciably lower the air density.
The fan mounted cooler on this picturered unit is a second stage output cooler (aftercooler), which will drop out water, it has been stated aftercoolers will remove up to 70% of the water. If the cooler coil is close or larger then the Allison DB-1290, it will do a good job.
Looks in good condition, much better quaility then the newer IRs, looks like a pressure oil feed, which is a plus, likely but guessing it has real main shaft bearings. Make sure it it the correct phase you need, and that repair parts are still obtainable; get model number and search for manuals and parts on google before buying; many older models compressors are still well supported. If it is not the correct phase motor, at a decent price, still worth a motor change out. I would also open the front inspection port on the tank, and look at the tank condition.
If you purchase this, rig a coalescent filter which has an automatic drain on it (Wilkerson,Parker), before it hits the tank, cheap on Ebay, my 1" water filters went for $25-50, 3/4" units are cheaper. Do not go lower then 3/4", too restrictive. I would not pay until the owner powers it up. Be warned that compressor is heavy, plan on removing the compressor head and motor before moving, makes it a lot easier.
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DS-21
Active member
Now that was good reading & links! Thanks a lot
I had hopes that I could see the green one yesterday, but we couldn't make it together that day. That cooler got me triggered, It seems to be as big as the DB-1290. From now on I'm going to look for good coolers and related plumbings at the flea markets...
Good buyers guide too!
I had hopes that I could see the green one yesterday, but we couldn't make it together that day. That cooler got me triggered, It seems to be as big as the DB-1290. From now on I'm going to look for good coolers and related plumbings at the flea markets...
Good buyers guide too!
Art From De Leon
Well-known member
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"From now on I'm going to look for good coolers and related plumbings at the flea markets..."
Years ago I used to go to Englishtown NJ (used to be one of the largest flea markets in the US) , and purchase tools, parts etc. for 10 cents on the dollar, but not anymore...Ebay is the closest I can get to that, as long as I use my sniping software (Auction Sentry). Last week I picked up a low loss check valve which retails for hundreds (absurd as that sounds) for $13.00 plus shipping ( guess if you work on an oil rig or nuclear plant you pay hundreds retail, I can't).
Just looked up the cooler option cost on the t30, $290-350, that would hurt new retail
Years ago I used to go to Englishtown NJ (used to be one of the largest flea markets in the US) , and purchase tools, parts etc. for 10 cents on the dollar, but not anymore...Ebay is the closest I can get to that, as long as I use my sniping software (Auction Sentry). Last week I picked up a low loss check valve which retails for hundreds (absurd as that sounds) for $13.00 plus shipping ( guess if you work on an oil rig or nuclear plant you pay hundreds retail, I can't).
Just looked up the cooler option cost on the t30, $290-350, that would hurt new retail
charger
Active member
1Garageman
Well-known member
mustangmccance
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 832
here is my compressors. my dad and I now share a garage and we both had compressors so we hooked them together. works much better for my blast cabinet with the greater volume. I would love a 2 stage but for the cost of my small compressor. I have a pretty good setup I think.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2705941130101642786Ugivju
we have it run out with pvc pipe for now 2 my 3 retractible hoses and to my blast cabinet. with a shut off coming off each compressor and one at the blast cabinet so I can turn the air off when I open the cabinet. I know pvc is not the best material for air lines but it is cheap and my dad had it in his shop for about 10 years with no issues so we'll see.
I intend to build a ventilated enclosure for the compressors now when I build the wall for my bathroom.which will go right next to that steel beam. and I will have a retractible air line hanging from the ceiling beam out between the garage doors in the main shop.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2705941130101642786Ugivju
we have it run out with pvc pipe for now 2 my 3 retractible hoses and to my blast cabinet. with a shut off coming off each compressor and one at the blast cabinet so I can turn the air off when I open the cabinet. I know pvc is not the best material for air lines but it is cheap and my dad had it in his shop for about 10 years with no issues so we'll see.
I intend to build a ventilated enclosure for the compressors now when I build the wall for my bathroom.which will go right next to that steel beam. and I will have a retractible air line hanging from the ceiling beam out between the garage doors in the main shop.
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Steve in Mi
Well-known member
Just one source of warning against PVC air line piping.
http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
Be safe.
Has anyone tried Polyurethane autobody lift pucks, like they use on jeeps and trucks for more tire clearance, to mount their compressor on? Ive never seen one break under the stress I put on my jeep. I was thinking they should last a lot longer than hockey pucks and wondered whether or not anyone has thought of this or has tried it.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Thanks, but your only feeding my insanity on this project...
Tough part of this control box setup was cutting the switch and ammeter openings... used jigsaw then dremel carbide cutter to finish off openings. Also if you do not have a knockout tool, the electric punch outs will be insanely rough, purchased one off Ebay, as I have done similar before without one.
All items purchased on Ebay
I used a Sieman’s Contactor with overload protector, model varies as to horse power of your compressor.
Hoffman Nema 12 Encloser A1008CH, prices wary on Ebay, do not even think about a smaller box (8"x10"x4") (original post had incorrect size)….
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=A1008CH
Ammeter, rated for 150 amps...
must be coil type, you do not want to play with shunts... slip one of the power legs through coil, does not matter which one, on the motor side of the contactor. Easy hookup, two wire to coil, two wires from power supply 12vdc output. A/C side of the power supply goes to the motor side of the contactor ( This way the ammeter powers on only as the compressor is running, if you attach wires to the feed side it will remain on all the time). The supplier has lower current rated ammeters, but I would not purchase, as the start current goes very high, which might blow the lower current models…..
http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-150A-Digital...0?hash=item2ea42ee1ea&_trksid=p4999.m20.l1116
Power supply...
12VDC for the Ammeter, only needs to supply 12vdc at far less then an amp. The one I got works on 120-240 vac, needs to be small, space is limited in the enclosure, could be another such as used for computer laptops…..
EUR AC/DC Adapter 110-240V to 12V 1.0A 5.5/2.1 19-099
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=EUR+AC/DC+Adapter+110-240V+
Power switch ….
On off switch Furnas Siemens encloser # 49SBSB4,
do not look at momentary push button switches unless you have an optional latching auxiliary contact on the contactor
http://cgi.ebay.com/Furnas-Siemens-...ols?hash=item9a031baf&_trksid=p4999.m20.l1116
Hobbs hour meter, 120-240v, connects to motor side of contactor....
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HOBBS-HOUR-...0?hash=item1c0a4ed278&_trksid=p4999.m20.l1116
Sprayed boxes with auto enamel, but should have used lacquer.
"and a relay to have the ammeter powered on only as the compressor runs" Not necessary (changed the circuit design), I have one, but it also has another purpose.
Figured with an accurate amp reading baseline ,with the voltage only varying slightly, which is normal, if anything is not right with the compressor I will know immediately.
Tough part of this control box setup was cutting the switch and ammeter openings... used jigsaw then dremel carbide cutter to finish off openings. Also if you do not have a knockout tool, the electric punch outs will be insanely rough, purchased one off Ebay, as I have done similar before without one.
All items purchased on Ebay
I used a Sieman’s Contactor with overload protector, model varies as to horse power of your compressor.
Hoffman Nema 12 Encloser A1008CH, prices wary on Ebay, do not even think about a smaller box (8"x10"x4") (original post had incorrect size)….
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=A1008CH
Ammeter, rated for 150 amps...
must be coil type, you do not want to play with shunts... slip one of the power legs through coil, does not matter which one, on the motor side of the contactor. Easy hookup, two wire to coil, two wires from power supply 12vdc output. A/C side of the power supply goes to the motor side of the contactor ( This way the ammeter powers on only as the compressor is running, if you attach wires to the feed side it will remain on all the time). The supplier has lower current rated ammeters, but I would not purchase, as the start current goes very high, which might blow the lower current models…..
http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-150A-Digital...0?hash=item2ea42ee1ea&_trksid=p4999.m20.l1116
Power supply...
12VDC for the Ammeter, only needs to supply 12vdc at far less then an amp. The one I got works on 120-240 vac, needs to be small, space is limited in the enclosure, could be another such as used for computer laptops…..
EUR AC/DC Adapter 110-240V to 12V 1.0A 5.5/2.1 19-099
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=EUR+AC/DC+Adapter+110-240V+
Power switch ….
On off switch Furnas Siemens encloser # 49SBSB4,
do not look at momentary push button switches unless you have an optional latching auxiliary contact on the contactor
http://cgi.ebay.com/Furnas-Siemens-...ols?hash=item9a031baf&_trksid=p4999.m20.l1116
Hobbs hour meter, 120-240v, connects to motor side of contactor....
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HOBBS-HOUR-...0?hash=item1c0a4ed278&_trksid=p4999.m20.l1116
Sprayed boxes with auto enamel, but should have used lacquer.
"and a relay to have the ammeter powered on only as the compressor runs" Not necessary (changed the circuit design), I have one, but it also has another purpose.
Figured with an accurate amp reading baseline ,with the voltage only varying slightly, which is normal, if anything is not right with the compressor I will know immediately.
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Mr. Jean
Well-known member
I've got just a smaller Craftsman 25 gallon, 2 stage. 1.6 hp.175 psi unit. One of those quiet types you were talking about. 40% quieter, is what is says. Works fine for the stuff I do, so far. Like having it on wheels, to put/move where ever needed.
Works fine for the stuff I do, so far. Like having it on wheels, to put/move where ever needed.
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e-tek
Well-known member
From the first post...
I only see one cyclinder....
To the last:
YOU aren't thr "Princess", in "Princess Parking" are you?
I only see one cyclinder....
To the last:
I've got just a smaller Craftsman 25 gallon, 2 stage. 1.6 hp.175 psi unit. One of those quiet types you were talking about. 40% quieter, is what is says.
YOU aren't thr "Princess", in "Princess Parking" are you?
Mr. Jean
Well-known member
YOU aren't thr "Princess", in "Princess Parking" are you?
Thanks to my wife(Anne) for the sign.
That's what she calls the vette.Oops, sorry, it was in a different thread. I'm speaking of this one.
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RbrtAWhyt
Well-known member
I've got just a smaller Craftsman 25 gallon, 2 stage. 1.6 hp.175 psi unit. One of those quiet types you were talking about. 40% quieter, is what is says.
Cool looking stainless boxes. What kind are they?
Mr. Jean
Well-known member
Thanks. They are the Durotek brand.
Well mine was 50.00 seller told me 220 motor was n/g....one starting capacitor later good as new....thanks to the great postings on this site I was able to build a hoist and finally get it up to my second floor, those are my new stairs to the third floor storage attic....
Mike B
Mike B
Attachments
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Well, finally got the Quincy that I bought in Atlanta hooked up in its new home.
Special thanks again to Charles (in GA) for the help on the magnetic starter. The wiring came out looking nice (at least to me) with his help.
The manifold was a pain to do what I needed done but (other than having a 12" ****** instead of 3" ****** at the connector...) it came together at the end. The line going to the top of the screen will go thru the top of the wall, across the basement ceiling and come out at the floor in the garage. The garage will be fed from that 3/4" line.
I hate to admit it but I put the compressor in purgatory. It is in the "lawnmower garage" under the screened in back porch but it is nice and quiet out there. Now I just need to sand, prime and paint the tank and compressor to make it look a little nicer.
Special thanks again to Charles (in GA) for the help on the magnetic starter. The wiring came out looking nice (at least to me) with his help.
The manifold was a pain to do what I needed done but (other than having a 12" ****** instead of 3" ****** at the connector...) it came together at the end. The line going to the top of the screen will go thru the top of the wall, across the basement ceiling and come out at the floor in the garage. The garage will be fed from that 3/4" line.
I hate to admit it but I put the compressor in purgatory. It is in the "lawnmower garage" under the screened in back porch but it is nice and quiet out there. Now I just need to sand, prime and paint the tank and compressor to make it look a little nicer.
Attachments
Niiice. Which Quincy is that?
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
bmwpower,
it's a QR-25 series, model #325 2 stage with a pressure feed oil pump and the optional oil filter. I replaced the 3 phase Baldor motor with a new single phase 5 HP Baldor and starter. My old compressor died a while back and I have been down to using my DeWalt airgun compressor when I needed air. I am now a happy camper again...
it's a QR-25 series, model #325 2 stage with a pressure feed oil pump and the optional oil filter. I replaced the 3 phase Baldor motor with a new single phase 5 HP Baldor and starter. My old compressor died a while back and I have been down to using my DeWalt airgun compressor when I needed air. I am now a happy camper again...
bmwpower,
it's a QR-25 series, model #325 2 stage with a pressure feed oil pump and the optional oil filter. I replaced the 3 phase Baldor motor with a new single phase 5 HP Baldor and starter. My old compressor died a while back and I have been down to using my DeWalt airgun compressor when I needed air. I am now a happy camper again...
Oh man, that is the one to have! Been looking for a nice 325 pump off/on for some time, but I've been getting by with my 216 just fine.
Quincy is so cool to deal with. Good service DOES still exist these days!
e-tek
Well-known member
Thanks to my wife(Anne) for the sign.
Oops, sorry, it was in a different thread. I'm speaking of this one.
I thought that 'd be the case!!!
What's behind the trellis? That's a good idea to hide stuff....