cwise
Member
Yes, they call it rotary vane, I got because its quiet. Had to change the motor (5HP) it started out 3 phase.
Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
- Start date
Here's my new-to-me compressor the day I bought it.
...
A little update:
I built a water trap and a DIY desiccant dryer. I have all the parts to finish it so I'll put a final pic up when it's done. More details on the build in my shop thread.
I picked up a Solberg silencer/muffler and some fittings to mount it upright. Hopefully it knocks it down 5-8 decibels.
MEngineer
Well-known member
Brent, do you mind going into a little more depth about your desiccant set up? Did you get some special fittings or something?
Nothing all that special, really. I used 3' of 2" galv pipe, two 2" tees, 2 sight glass windows from McMasterCarr, and then caps that were threaded where I installed reducer bushing and air line couplers. The desiccant is the blue stuff that changes color when it's absorbed water to its capacity.
I got the idea from HAP, here on the GJ. There are a couple builds here on the GJ. All are a bit different but the concept and final results are very similar.
1Garageman
Well-known member
Question, do you guys let the water out of your compressor, and pipes, with the tank full of air and the PSI up all the way? Or wait until the tank is empty and release the water with no pressure???
MEngineer
Well-known member
Thanks for the response!
redmondjp
Well-known member
With full pressure, every time. I valve off the compressor output and it stays fully charged - it's been like that for the past 26 years. Because it's hard to get in the corner of the garage, especially down on the floor, I installed a 120VAC solenoid valve in place of the petcock on the bottom of the tank, and a momentary pushbutton on the motor mounting plate. I push that button for a few seconds every time I am in that corner of the garage.
1Garageman,
I guess it all depends on how much you're using the compressor and how permanent the installation is. On my portable (pancake) compressor, I manually drain it at the end of the day after bleeding off all the pressure.
In the garage, I have a big Quincy compressor that is connected to a Wilkerson auto drain valve that activates briefly each time the tank pressure drops below a certain level (well above zero PSI). I also have a Posi-Drain that I'm not using. It is set up more like a timer. It also drains under pressure. I could be easily persuaded into giving the Posi-Drain away. Just PM me.
Joe
polexican23
Banned
A little update:
I built a water trap and a DIY desiccant dryer. I have all the parts to finish it so I'll put a final pic up when it's done. More details on the build in my shop thread.
I picked up a Solberg silencer/muffler and some fittings to mount it upright. Hopefully it knocks it down 5-8 decibels.
Nice Drier setup. you have a screen in their too? and there is a kitty litter that uses desicant stuff that is supposed to be good and cheap
Yes, I forgot to mention screens. I used hose filter screens, I believe they're called. I epoxied them in on each end.
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HAP
Well-known member
Brent,
that is a nice looking desiccant set up you got there...
Nice job!!
R,
HAP
that is a nice looking desiccant set up you got there...
Nice job!!
R,
HAP
DUSTIN@STI
Well-known member
polexican23
Banned
Dustin any kind of GJ discount with STI. could use some pew pew accessories.
sberry
Banned
I do basically the same but with valve, If I think of it give it a shot, usually after I read an auto drain thread.
Have all 3 vessels with valve on each plumbed to a common line thru the wall. The breaker is even shut off on the blue one. I turned it on for giggles the other day when someone was blowing out a machine, maybe first time in a year. Its a reservoir for the 3 hp pump on the green one, a back up and as a demand unit should I want to sandblast larger jobs, tractor rim type stuff etc.
I have an engine drive on a truck I can gang on if I really need to but I don't want to work that hard and most stuff I care about has already been done.
Yes the red thing should be quite an upgrade. Big enough comp keeps it from needing to run all the time. Kind of a 1 shot deal for that kind of shop.
I really should have changed out for 1 size better unit back in the day but I live on rural lines and I got it all for free pretty much and it really never slowed me down anyway.
Attachments
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Northislander
Well-known member
So which one of you is this
Ironhorse74
MEMBER EMERITUS
So which one of you is this
I don't know, but I like his style.
driftpin
Well-known member
I wonder if that bike & sidecar is a Ural? Copy of a WW II BMW, now modified to meet emissions. I think the front disc brake is a clue that it is.
So which one of you is this
DUSTIN@STI
Well-known member
Sorry for the slow reply. We normally do not sell directly to the public. We do have some items on our website that can be purchased but they are not guns. Shoot me a PM with what your looking for and I will do whatever I can.
Carroll B
Active member
Been wanting to upgrade my compressor for several years. Was thinking about installing a larger pump from HF until I saw a video about a tank exploding. My old Monkey Ward compressor was about 30 years old and I only drained it once a year. Upgrading the pump didn’t seem like a good idea not knowing the inside condition of the tank, and besides the tank was only 12 gallons. The old pump only put out 5.8 cfm @90psi, and would struggle to keep up with the impact or air cutoff.
Lowes had a single stage on sale for 17% off. Used my military ID to up the discount to 27% so it only cost me $393. The new one puts out 11.5 cfm@90 psi. I will never have a media cabinet or a plasma cutter, so I only use air for impact drivers, air cutoff tool, blowing out dust and dirt, and inflating tires. I know what I bought is an overkill but what good is life if you can’t buy a new tool? I mounted it in my unfinished basement where I run a dehumidified all the time, which is better than my garage as humidity is often 90%+ in my area during the summer. I installed a power switch in the garage to turn it on. I have about 55 feet of ½ copper pipe before the filter/regulator at the door to my garage. The new compressor will be drained daily, which is not too often, since I will only use it 4-5 times a month.
Lowes had a single stage on sale for 17% off. Used my military ID to up the discount to 27% so it only cost me $393. The new one puts out 11.5 cfm@90 psi. I will never have a media cabinet or a plasma cutter, so I only use air for impact drivers, air cutoff tool, blowing out dust and dirt, and inflating tires. I know what I bought is an overkill but what good is life if you can’t buy a new tool? I mounted it in my unfinished basement where I run a dehumidified all the time, which is better than my garage as humidity is often 90%+ in my area during the summer. I installed a power switch in the garage to turn it on. I have about 55 feet of ½ copper pipe before the filter/regulator at the door to my garage. The new compressor will be drained daily, which is not too often, since I will only use it 4-5 times a month.
Attachments
Xicaque
Well-known member
Nice upgrade Mr Carroll. Be careful with that copper pipe...Do you know its max pressure rating?
Carroll B
Active member
The bursting pressure should be north of 400 psi. They use copper tubing for AC lines and depending upon the type of refrigerant the high side pressure is over 400 psi. For the type of solder I used the joints should be good for 400+ too. I think the flex line is used from the compressor tank to the copper is only good for 300 psi.
Xicaque
Well-known member
Here's a list of part numbers from what I used.
Where exactly are you placing the filter washer? On top of the 3/4 x3/8 black bushing?
Tradesman300
New member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2016
- Messages
- 3
OK, this is my first post on GJ. I have a nice old Champion HR2-6 that I have been slowly restoring and upgrading. I converted this over from a rust old 2HP 3PH Leeson, to a newer enclosed 3HP 1PH Baldor. Plumbed in air lines across the garage. Now I just need to get some sound proofing in so I can get the wife a bit of relief from the noise.
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tlmartin84
Well-known member
What are the usage differences in these two compressors?
KOBALT 80 Gal
Single Stage
16.0 CFM @ 90PSI
5 HP
Max Pressure 155 psi
View media item 66832
Ingersoll Rand
Two Stage
15.8 cfm @ 90 psi
5 HP
Max Pressure 175 PSI
View media item 66833
Is the Kobalt just going to cycle more often since it is @155 max vs the 175? And if so, wonder what the difference of 20 psi equates to in regards to time?
KOBALT 80 Gal
Single Stage
16.0 CFM @ 90PSI
5 HP
Max Pressure 155 psi
View media item 66832
Ingersoll Rand
Two Stage
15.8 cfm @ 90 psi
5 HP
Max Pressure 175 PSI
View media item 66833
Is the Kobalt just going to cycle more often since it is @155 max vs the 175? And if so, wonder what the difference of 20 psi equates to in regards to time?
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Streetbu
Well-known member
Basically yes. More air crammed into the same space. I would go for the Ingersol personally, but dont think either one is bad. Technically the Kobalt moves more air, probably just turning the compressor faster to do it though.
md21722
Well-known member
I would go with the dual stage IR compressor. Dual stage do not "slow down" past 110 PSI when they are pumping up & the extra head room gives you plenty of leeway to account for pressure drop. Typically dual stage cycle 140-175 PSI so unless the compressor is undersized for your tools, you will never face a drop in pressure at the tool.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
^^^ This... The single stage Kobalt will drop in CFM as he said, the IR as you can see from the specs basically doesn't. Big question is if the cost is worth it to you.
Streetbu
Well-known member
Ummmm, nope not according to the sticker.The Kobalt actually has even more at 40psi so your facts are incorrect. I would agree tonstill chose the IR but for quality, not scfm....
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Like the other guy said, when it reaches above ~110psi... The Kobalt is just a single stage, that's why they don't give ratings above 90psi for CFM... Sure, if he adjusts his cut in/out pressure a lot lower the kobalt might win by a smidge, but who the heck does that?
md21722
Well-known member
The Kobalt dropped 1.3 CFM between 40 and 90 PSI, the IR dropped 0.1 CFM in the same interval... 20-30% drop is not uncommon past 110 PSI for single stage pumps. In commercial and industrial applications single stage pumps are used for climate control & fire sprinkler systems, never for shop air tools...
tlmartin84
Well-known member
They are the same price, however the it has poor reviews....
redmondjp
Well-known member
Yup. In those single-stage applications, the 'off' pressure is often only 80-100psi, so it makes no sense at all to use a dual-stage pump.
That Kobalt is going to take forever to pump from 120 to 155psi, whereas the IR will sail through this range without issue. If you have an application where you don't need that high of a pressure and can live with 120psi max, I'd buy the Kobalt and dial back the 'off' pressure (which may require getting a different switch/controller if the existing one can't be adjusted that low).
tlmartin84
Well-known member
I don't need a bunch of pressure, 100 psi is plenty for my needs.
I do want to be able to run a small pressure pot, and blast cabinet.
Do you all think the IR will handle that?
My shop is plumbed and wire for 2 air compressors up to 5 HP. I currently own a Kobalt 60 gallon, 11.5 cfm, 155 psi compressor WHICH WONT KEEP UP WITH THE PRESSURE POT. I CAN BLAST FOR A MINUTE AND THEN HAVE TO WAIT TWO.....
What makes the Kobalt above attractive is the pressures all match up.
It would give me a total of 120 gallons of storage and over 27 cfms at 90 psi.
I rarely would need the second compressor..... So I could just flip it on and off as needed.
SUGGESTIONS?
I do want to be able to run a small pressure pot, and blast cabinet.
Do you all think the IR will handle that?
My shop is plumbed and wire for 2 air compressors up to 5 HP. I currently own a Kobalt 60 gallon, 11.5 cfm, 155 psi compressor WHICH WONT KEEP UP WITH THE PRESSURE POT. I CAN BLAST FOR A MINUTE AND THEN HAVE TO WAIT TWO.....
What makes the Kobalt above attractive is the pressures all match up.
It would give me a total of 120 gallons of storage and over 27 cfms at 90 psi.
I rarely would need the second compressor..... So I could just flip it on and off as needed.
SUGGESTIONS?
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chaosracing
Well-known member
I have an older Kobalt (got mine used) just like you have listed above. I have not tried a blast cabinet with it yet, however, I am happy with mine. If thats the same IR I saw at Tractor Supply, I can tell you why it has poor ratings. It has the same cheap compressor head that quite a few compressor manufacturers use. In fact, my dad has a cheap compressor with the same head and after only 6 years of light usage, we had to replace the compressor pump because the reed plates cracked and it would not run right. Its made in China.
If you can find an older compressor you are better off. If it were me, I would go with the Kobalt again.
If you can find an older compressor you are better off. If it were me, I would go with the Kobalt again.
md21722
Well-known member
If you are mixing and matching single stage and dual stage, you need to check the tank ratings for each. Often single stage tanks like your 3HP Kobalt are only rated for 150 PSI maximum. Dual stage tanks are generally always rated for 200 PSI maximum. So if you mix and match running them in parallel you're going to end up blowing off the safety on the single stage compressor. One way to solve that problem is to put a check valve on the outlet of the 3HP compressor. You can also just buy another $449-499 single stage 3HP compressor... Or buy the IR and turn down its pressure. If you are also using air tools or plan on doing more in the future, I would probably dial down the IR for now because later you may want to buy another and get rid of your single stage Kobalt. Once you go dual stage you don't go back unless you've turned from mechanic to construction guy and are using it for nailers. Of course the best thing you can do is sell your existing Kobalt and buy a 7.5HP dual stage w after cooler... Generally everyone on here, once they have that, stop trying to upgrade...
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