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Compression - Show Off Your Compressor

Boyd

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Dec 16, 2009
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866
Location
Forney, TX
What have others been doing for the compressor feet mounts for something like the IR- SS5L5?

Mcmaster sells these, and it lists air compressors as an application. PN: 6423K611

$25/ea, 1/2-13 thread, it'll take 600lbs (so total of 2400max with 4), and it has a good temperature working range (-20 to 225F).

6423kc1l.gif

I have those exact isolators on my 60 gallon Kobalt. They quieted the compressor down a bunch and it doesn't walk around at all, no matter how long I run it. Never tried the hockey puck thing - not many of those in Texas, lol.
 
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fusionspecialists

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Nov 9, 2009
Messages
33
Thanks 930. Yeah I have 120/208 three phase. I have no idea how smooth this thing will run. I plan on just bolting it directly to the loft, but if it shakes around a lot, I'll have to try the hockey puck or the isolators from McMaster.
 

diogenes

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Now that fusionspecialists has absolutely destroyed my self esteem...:bowdown: May I petition a senior member for a "You ****" award nomination for him?:lol_hitti

This is my "new" compressor:

1129091143a.jpg


It is a Worthington 3CH8 two stage compressor that I bought as surplus from work. It dates from 1967. I "think" it is a 100 gallon tank due to it's size, but the model number makes me think it may "only" be 80 gallons. I'm thinking the model number translates to 3 (hp motor) CH (pump model) 8 (80 gallons). Any thoughts appreciated.

The Worthington originally had a 3 phase, 3 HP motor which I replaced with a 1 phase, 5 HP rebuilt motor since I don't have 3 phase power at home. I still need to get longer belts to move the motor away from the pump and I need to put the wires into a metal cable between the motor and pump. I had to replace the reed valves in the high pressure side which necessitated new gaskets on that head. It runs great to 150#, then starts back up at 125# just like it should. I still need to figure out what path I want to take in plumbing the hard lines out to the shop area.:headscrat

I ended up spending more than I had intended, but I'm happy so far. Total investment, compressor, motor and parts is about $470.

I would like some help figuring out what my output is from someone who knows the formula. Obviously 150# pressure, but CFM, etc elude me.:headscrat Here are the data plates from the pump and motor:

1115091601a.jpg


1124091309.jpg


I made sure when I bought the new motor that it had the same RPM as the old motor and I used the pulley from the old motor on it. I should be at stock output, but with lots of HP overhead. The compressor is currently on a 20 amp breaker (I have the 30 amp breaker, I just haven't put it in yet), on a 40' long run of 10-2 romex, and hasn't popped it so I figure I am not working the motor very hard at all.

Comments and info, please...:)
 

Tantara

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Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
217
I was told by a compressor salesman to figure 4cfm per horsepower. I think that might be optimistic but close. I would figure on three horsepower motor from the original setup. My guess would be 12 cfm.

Brad
 

BigBlue1

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Aug 12, 2009
Messages
45
I have couple more compressors but they have not came out and play yet. In other words I do not recall where they are.
 

BigBlue1

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Tom2

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Now that fusionspecialists has absolutely destroyed my self esteem...:bowdown: May I petition a senior member for a "You ****" award nomination for him?:lol_hitti

This is my "new" compressor:



It is a Worthington 3CH8 two stage compressor that I bought as surplus from work. It dates from 1967. I "think" it is a 100 gallon tank due to it's size, but the model number makes me think it may "only" be 80 gallons. I'm thinking the model number translates to 3 (hp motor) CH (pump model) 8 (80 gallons). Any thoughts appreciated.

The Worthington originally had a 3 phase, 3 HP motor which I replaced with a 1 phase, 5 HP rebuilt motor since I don't have 3 phase power at home. I still need to get longer belts to move the motor away from the pump and I need to put the wires into a metal cable between the motor and pump. I had to replace the reed valves in the high pressure side which necessitated new gaskets on that head. It runs great to 150#, then starts back up at 125# just like it should. I still need to figure out what path I want to take in plumbing the hard lines out to the shop area.:headscrat

I ended up spending more than I had intended, but I'm happy so far. Total investment, compressor, motor and parts is about $470.

I would like some help figuring out what my output is from someone who knows the formula. Obviously 150# pressure, but CFM, etc elude me.:headscrat Here are the data plates from the pump and motor:



I made sure when I bought the new motor that it had the same RPM as the old motor and I used the pulley from the old motor on it. I should be at stock output, but with lots of HP overhead. The compressor is currently on a 20 amp breaker (I have the 30 amp breaker, I just haven't put it in yet), on a 40' long run of 10-2 romex, and hasn't popped it so I figure I am not working the motor very hard at all.

Comments and info, please...:)


What are the odds.. I put an ad on CL saying that I was looking for a big air compressor - and the first response I got was about a Worthington of similar size.

He says it is 15HP and 80-100 Horizontal tank. 2 stage. Had a 3 phase motor that was shot. Said he put a gas motor on it, but took it back off because it was needed for something else.


He's asking $200 for it.. I don't really want a horizontal tank.. And not really sure what to do if it doesn't have a motor on it.
Is an electric motor something that can be found for a reasonable price? I just have standard electric here, so it would need to be 220V.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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A 15 HP electric motor will be very hard to find and very expensive. It might be easier to replace the motor with a 3 phase and use a rotary converter to run it. Either way, it will cost to get that one running.
 

diogenes

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What are the odds.. I put an ad on CL saying that I was looking for a big air compressor - and the first response I got was about a Worthington of similar size.

He says it is 15HP and 80-100 Horizontal tank. 2 stage. Had a 3 phase motor that was shot. Said he put a gas motor on it, but took it back off because it was needed for something else.


He's asking $200 for it.. I don't really want a horizontal tank.. And not really sure what to do if it doesn't have a motor on it.
Is an electric motor something that can be found for a reasonable price? I just have standard electric here, so it would need to be 220V.

The killer is going to be if it really is a 15 HP motor it needs. The price of 1 phase 220 volt motors is going to drive you into price comparisons with new, quality, compressors. I paid $300 for the rebuilt 5 HP motor I'm using. A new Baldor 15 HP like this one will make you run for Home Despot.:wtf: The second issue is that it requires 58 amps to start...:shocking:

Your other option would be to pick up a used 3 phase 15 HP motor, which would be relatively cheap (Even new, they are not bad.), and then get a phase converter of some type, which might not be so cheap because they have to be matched to the output and the cheaper ones may shorten the service life of the motor due to only using three phases to start the motor and then dropping back to two while it is running. The more expensive ones are just 3 phase motors being run in reverse and with the cost you are back in the price range of the 1 phase...:wtf:

Now that I have written War and Peace, the bottom line is:

If you can find a used or rebuilt 1 phase 15 HP motor for cheap and can support a 60 amp circuit in your garage, then it will give you massive overkill for shop work and bragging rights.:thumbup:

If you have a spare top end that you can graft onto the tank (providing it is in worthwhile condition) that may make economic sense, you could sell off the pump...

BTW, any parts you need for a Worthington pump can be gotten from PSI, in Mass. for a good price, including the manuals. :thumbup:

I hope that helped, but given that you don't want a horizontal tank in the first place, I think you may want to keep on looking.
 

walrus

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Maine
Here's my comp. going in. I bought it a long time ago, hasn't been used in years. Hopefully it still works:bounce:
 

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Tom2

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Thanks for the help.. I got another lead on a 60gal Husky - which is what I was about to buy from HD.

Apparently its only been used lightly. He wants $250 for it.

Just offered him $200. Said he can deliver it too..
 

diogenes

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Thanks for the help.. I got another lead on a 60gal Husky - which is what I was about to buy from HD.

Apparently its only been used lightly. He wants $250 for it.

Just offered him $200. Said he can deliver it too..

I got a bit overwhelmed when I started researching the 3 phase/ 1 phase thing. At least I got a chance to put the info to use...

It sounds like you have a good deal in your sights. Good luck and share some pictures when you get it.
 

walrus

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What is the make and model? It looks good from here...

Its an old Wayne, Got it wired up and it fired right up. But I shut it off and now it just hums. Not sure if the centrifugal switch is bad or the Caps are bad or what. Probably have to take it to a motor shop and get it checked. I can see where mice have been in it:mad:. I took the belts off to make sure it wasn't loaded and it still just sat there and hummed.
 

930dreamer

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Its an old Wayne, Got it wired up and it fired right up. But I shut it off and now it just hums. Not sure if the centrifugal switch is bad or the Caps are bad or what. Probably have to take it to a motor shop and get it checked. I can see where mice have been in it:mad:. I took the belts off to make sure it wasn't loaded and it still just sat there and hummed.

If you still have the belts off, try wraping some rope around the motor pulley and spinning, then start. This will tell you if its the start caps.
 

wineslob

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Oct 22, 2009
Messages
233
Location
The Northstate
Now that fusionspecialists has absolutely destroyed my self esteem...:bowdown: May I petition a senior member for a "You ****" award nomination for him?:lol_hitti

This is my "new" compressor:

1129091143a.jpg


It is a Worthington 3CH8 two stage compressor that I bought as surplus from work. It dates from 1967. I "think" it is a 100 gallon tank due to it's size, but the model number makes me think it may "only" be 80 gallons. I'm thinking the model number translates to 3 (hp motor) CH (pump model) 8 (80 gallons). Any thoughts appreciated.

The Worthington originally had a 3 phase, 3 HP motor which I replaced with a 1 phase, 5 HP rebuilt motor since I don't have 3 phase power at home. I still need to get longer belts to move the motor away from the pump and I need to put the wires into a metal cable between the motor and pump. I had to replace the reed valves in the high pressure side which necessitated new gaskets on that head. It runs great to 150#, then starts back up at 125# just like it should. I still need to figure out what path I want to take in plumbing the hard lines out to the shop area.:headscrat

I ended up spending more than I had intended, but I'm happy so far. Total investment, compressor, motor and parts is about $470.

I would like some help figuring out what my output is from someone who knows the formula. Obviously 150# pressure, but CFM, etc elude me.:headscrat Here are the data plates from the pump and motor:

1115091601a.jpg


1124091309.jpg


I made sure when I bought the new motor that it had the same RPM as the old motor and I used the pulley from the old motor on it. I should be at stock output, but with lots of HP overhead. The compressor is currently on a 20 amp breaker (I have the 30 amp breaker, I just haven't put it in yet), on a 40' long run of 10-2 romex, and hasn't popped it so I figure I am not working the motor very hard at all.

Comments and info, please...:)[/QUOTE]

I'd say you've got a nice 10.5 cfm compressor (roughly). :beer:
 

wineslob

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Oct 22, 2009
Messages
233
Location
The Northstate
The killer is going to be if it really is a 15 HP motor it needs. The price of 1 phase 220 volt motors is going to drive you into price comparisons with new, quality, compressors. I paid $300 for the rebuilt 5 HP motor I'm using. A new Baldor 15 HP like this one will make you run for Home Despot. The second issue is that it requires 58 amps to start...

Thats FLA, full load current. The actual starting current, or "locked rotor" rule of thumb is 5 to 8 times the FLA. So you could have, briefly,( @ 5X the FLA), 290 AMP inrush. Wheee!
 

diogenes

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Thats FLA, full load current. The actual starting current, or "locked rotor" rule of thumb is 5 to 8 times the FLA. So you could have, briefly,( @ 5X the FLA), 290 AMP inrush. Wheee!

So you're saying starting it would be reminiscent of Christmas Vacation's house lighting scene? :bounce:
 
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Fubar

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Jan 22, 2010
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Cape Cod Ma
Eaton 120 gal 33.9 cfm, Pneumatech refrigerant air dryer


Picture185.jpg

I was hoping that I would see some Eaton compressors in this thread. I my opinion they are the best bar none. Fully rebuildable, made of the best parts, and turn very slow speeds. And best of all....Quiet!

Last year I bought a IR T-31 from a friend for 500.00. Hardly used, and about three years old it appeared to be a great deal. We had two T-30s (circa 1990s) at a shop I used to work at and they were good. He did tell me that it was noisy, and it got hot with repeated running. I got it back to my shop, positioned it in my compressor room and fired it off.

Noisy? You wouldn't believe how noisy this thing was. You could feel it through the cement floor. And even filling the tank, it built more heat (read=water) than I liked. Got on the Eaton site and bought one of these to replace the IR pump for 400.00. The IR had a 7 1/2 motor on it so that was worth the five bills right there. Another 100.00 got me all the stuff (from Eaton) to mount it up including the Adjustable Belt Tentioner. I GAVE the IR pump to a friend that has a compressor in an outside room that he uses solely for sandblasting...

Bottom line IR has sold out to foreign interests (as many other brand names have), and their products are ****. Had I not got the deal I did I would have just gone to Eaton in the first place..
 

Tom2

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2,209
Well, the guy with the 60/gal Husky was firm on $250 and didn't have 220 electric at the location to hear it run.. So, I'm probably better off going new.

The only downside with buying one from Home Depot is that I will have to pay the $75 delivery fee.

I could rent one of those $20 trucks.. but it would probably take more than an hour to run home and back - especially figuring out how to unload it. I guess I would need an engine hoist. I don't have one at the moment, but would like one eventually.
 

walrus

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If you still have the belts off, try wraping some rope around the motor pulley and spinning, then start. This will tell you if its the start caps.

I tried spinning it, it will maintain a slow spin but it won't come up to speed. I wonder if the contactor isn't making both poles, need to hook it direct to see if I'm losing a leg? The thing is 35 years old, was in a Mobil station for 25 years and been in my dads shop for 10 years just sitting there. It fired right up though but not now:(
 

Tom2

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Yea..I was going to say it doesnt look anything close to 120..but could just be perspective.
 

94legaleagle

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120 Gallons - really? Looks more like 30 - but maybe it's the reference point! And how many HP does it take to push 33cfm?

Yea..I was going to say it doesnt look anything close to 120..but could just be perspective.

It IS a 120 gallon tank - take a look at the Eaton Compressor website - I don't have one YET, but I'm planning on one - from what I've heard and read, as per above, they deliver the MOST air, w/ the slowest speed and are American made. I've yet to hear anything bad about them

When I purchase my next compressor, I want Mucho Bucho air flow, and when you compair the cfm @ Psi of Eaton w/ the others, nothing seems to come close to Eaton.

Again, I'm not an Eaton owner yet, but I plan on becoming one
 

Zrexxer

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It IS a 120 gallon tank - take a look at the Eaton Compressor website - I don't have one YET, but I'm planning on one - from what I've heard and read, as per above, they deliver the MOST air, w/ the slowest speed and are American made.
If that last part is important to you, you'd better check again... the Eaton pumps are most definitely Asian.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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Bottom line IR has sold out to foreign interests (as many other brand names have), and their products are ****. Had I not got the deal I did I would have just gone to Eaton in the first place..

The tank, motor and some other parts are American made but that compressor was made made where "Engrish" is not the native language. Eaton has been trying to hide that fact for a LONG time.
 

Fubar

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The tank, motor and some other parts are American made but that compressor was made made where "Engrish" is not the native language. Eaton has been trying to hide that fact for a LONG time.

Is THIS what you are addressing? I would hardly call this "hiding" information..
 

94legaleagle

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Not sure what war I walked into when I said I liked Eaton Compressors and wanted one. . . Really d/n matter to me since I fully disclosed that I do not YET have an Eaton compressor, but I want one - and after comparing most major brands and sizes, I've yet to find one that puts out the numbers Eaton claims to have (yea, it's a claim) . . . but, their warranty policy seems VERY GOOD, at least to me, and I've talked w/ them a couple times -

I copied the following from their disclosure statement directly off of their website which FUBAR gives the link to:


"We use international compressor pumps built in one of our own factories. This is why you see "EATON" in our castings. One out of every 100 compressors is built in the USA. We strive to give Americans jobs (the majority of our piston-type unit's components are made here in the USA)"


so, since the majority of Eaton's "piston-type unit's components are made here in the USA," is Eaton employing NON-engrish speaking people at substandard wages, and/or is Eaton sending their American made compressor parts overseas, to a NON-engrish speaking country to then build the pump, which is then sent back to US soil?

I think I still want an Eaton compressor!
 

94legaleagle

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294
tell me about the secret getting out and the owner's meltdown - I DON'T know about that, and it could change my impression of Eaton - this is the first negative I've ever heard about Eaton compressors
 

Fubar

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No, that's "damage control" after the secret got out several years ago, and the owner of Eaton about had a meltdown.


Yes, I would like to hear about this "meltdown"

I have talked to Matt Kane (owner of the company) a few times and I'll call to ask about this..
 

Zrexxer

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Yes, I would like to hear about this "meltdown"

I have talked to Matt Kane (owner of the company) a few times and I'll call to ask about this..
Knock yourself out.

You can do your research somewhere other than the company's website, or you can just believe whatever you choose to believe. I suspect the latter.

p.s. his name is Cain.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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Fubar,

He threatened several sites with lawsuits about their posting on his compressors several years ago. I don't have a problem with them being made overseas but he tried to hide that fact until forced to admit it. It is still slightly deceiving however. When you look at that compressor and see the big American flag on the tank, most of us think "American made". You need to read the fine print on the tag that states "this tank is made in America".

They do make a very nice compressor that runs at a low rpm and is very quiet. Your original post however said IR had sold out to foreign interests which implied using a foreign pump. I was just pointing out that Eaton has done the same thing.

It goes across the board though, I run a Quincy and they just sold out to a French company. I would rather have seen them bought by a Taiwanese company instead of letting the French get it....:(
 

Fubar

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Cape Cod Ma
Knock yourself out.

You can do your research somewhere other than the company's website, or you can just believe whatever you choose to believe. I suspect the latter.

p.s. his name is Cain.

Then if you have links to other information then please post them.

You are still not being very clear about what you are talking about...
 

Fubar

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Messages
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Cape Cod Ma
Fubar,

He threatened several sites with lawsuits about their posting on his compressors several years ago. I don't have a problem with them being made overseas but he tried to hide that fact until forced to admit it. It is still slightly deceiving however. When you look at that compressor and see the big American flag on the tank, most of us think "American made". You need to read the fine print on the tag that states "this tank is made in America".

They do make a very nice compressor that runs at a low rpm and is very quiet. Your original post however said IR had sold out to foreign interests which implied using a foreign pump. I was just pointing out that Eaton has done the same thing.

It goes across the board though, I run a Quincy and they just sold out to a French company. I would rather have seen them bought by a Taiwanese company instead of letting the French get it....:(

OK, thank you for the info. I will look into that as that isn't what they state clearly in the disclosure..
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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legal,

The motor is an American made Baldor unit, the tank is an American made ASME certified tank, The pressure switch, wiring, belts and pulleys are American made (that I know of) and I think the mag starter is American made.

The compressor pump itself is made overseas (I think in China) without any American parts. When completely assembled, the majority of the piston compressors parts are made in the USA. you need to pay CLOSE attention to how he words it. :)
 
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