Shocker
Well-known member
Hey Wearetheromans85, have you run that unit yet? How loud is it?
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
- Start date
Fubar
Well-known member
Looks like somebody made that up. The old compressors can be very nice. My shop came with a 1962 Gilbarco 3HP 80 gal. It was nice and quiet even though it was completely worn out, and I still got a year out of it (this was five years ago).
wearetheromans85
Member
I haven't ran it yet. I used to work in a place that had a 7hp champion and it scared the hell outta me when it kicked on. id prolly say its close to that.
Fubar
Well-known member
I had a five HP Campbell Hausfeld about twenty eight years ago. It was good, but that was then. I'd have to say every new compressor I've heard run is loud (Eaton being the exception).
http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee137/3CL1/?action=view¤t=CHAMP006002.flv
Champion 5hp 3 phase with bad motor bearings, RPC running in back ground.
Champion 5hp 3 phase with bad motor bearings, RPC running in back ground.
the spyder
Well-known member
930-
How many belts are on that setup? It looks to be a much larger pump then my R15/R15b.
How many belts are on that setup? It looks to be a much larger pump then my R15/R15b.
Two belts.
kbeitz
Well-known member
I have quite a few... But I like this one the best... 1800 but still in great shape...
CarterKraft
Well-known member
Man i have that same compressor and you can hold your hand on it for the complete cycle and can't really tell it's changed temp. After a long 10 minute straight span of running it was warm to the touch but not hot by any means.
I would think there is definantly something wrong with that unit... but as I am typing this though I have to wonder if it's the differance between the supercharged pump running on the 7 1/2 hp or the 5 hp slow roller mine is running on.
Don't know.
Fubar
Well-known member
The 7 1/2 motor that ran the IR is running the Eaton, but I had to switch both pulleys. The IR ran MUCH faster RPMs than the Eaton (600). I really don't think that there was anything wrong Per-se, it's just the was it was. I gave it to a friend with a body shop and he put it on a tank they use for D.A.s, etc and it hasn't quit yet (he did say the sound was unreal after a day of it). Didn't matter to him, it was free.....
Diverbill45
Well-known member
Mine's just another compressor, but it keeps up with my blast cabinet and all the other air tools I have. It's a 3 cyclinder single stage unit, but the difference in price between this unit and the 2 stage compressor, with the same HP and CFM, was the deciding factor. I just couldn't see paying $400 more for the 2 stage unit. A friend of mine has this same unit and he runs a body shop and has never had any problems with not having enough air.
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Danimal
Active member
Mines.
Mickey_D
Well-known member
I have two online right now, a 5HP Champion that I just call blue. Very stout and puts out a lot of air (runs about 4 to 5 hours a day). The second compressor is a 3HP 3ph chinese mystery compressor that I picked up on Craigslist for $30. I mainly just use it in the front shop as a reserve tank but it is wired in as a backup. It does have disk valves and is very quiet, so I think I got a good deal on it.
Ive got a horizontal tank(80L), paralell twin IR 17cfm and a question about recievers, Has anyone heard of using a bank of old propane cylinders as a reciever? I'm looking at a new reciever but they are $1500 for a 300L unit and I can get propane cylinders for nothing and make a reciever for just the cost of the pipe and fittings, anybody tried it or heard of it? Safe or not? I like my compressor but it cuts i and out too often and I'm already on my third set of capacitors.
Mike 47
Well-known member
Picked this up last night from a real nice guy - a 60 gallon Castair, made locally here in Minnesota. 15.9cfm @ 100psi, it will be a nice upgrade from the little Craftsman compressor I've been using.
Salem747
Well-known member
I have a 1964 Brunner A-212 with a 1958 3hp motor (the motor weighs 113#) I bought the 1958 Brunner in Sudbury for $75 but the tank was bad. I had the motor fixed up for $40 and found a 1964 Brunner in Ottawa with a 3 phase motor. I put the single phase motor on it from the other one and have it running now. VERY quiet and pretty damn cool if you ask me! I think I am addicted to old tools. I just bought a 50s drill press for $100.
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Salem747
Well-known member
Nightshift
Well-known member
Salem747, I have an old 2-stage Brunner just about identical to yours ... except mine is on a 60 gal vertical take. Mine is an A-212 also with a 3 hp. No idea what year it is though ... can you tell by the serial number?
Like you said, it runs very smooth and quiet. All you need now is to set that baby on 4 hockey pucks and add an auto-drain. These will last a lifetime if you change the oil in the crankcase once/yr. Takes me about 30 minutes each year! Cheers, Bill
Like you said, it runs very smooth and quiet. All you need now is to set that baby on 4 hockey pucks and add an auto-drain. These will last a lifetime if you change the oil in the crankcase once/yr. Takes me about 30 minutes each year! Cheers, Bill
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Zrexxer
Well-known member
They don't, so far as I know. They just certified that tank. I believe DeWalt's compressors are made by Emglo.
Salem747
Well-known member
I do need an autodrain I actually just came in from draining it PITA! It is sitting on neoprene pads, even nicer than hockey pucks! If you need any parts for your Brunner there is an outfit in Toronto that still makes parts www.atmosphair.net. They have rings etc for them.
proorange
Well-known member
Eaton 7.5hp, 2 stage, 80g tank. Should be done with manifold sometime tomorrow so I can fire it up and make some air
Indy_500
Well-known member
Nightshift
Well-known member
Thanks for the link. I found a local place in London that also has parts, although I haven't needed any yet.
How did you find out what year your Brunner was?
re: draining ... another reason to set it up on hockey pucks ... gives you an extra 1.5" of room under the tank to get at your drain ****. Should do what I did ... turn it over, remove the plug, and add a 90 degree street elbow and a long enough pipe to bring your drain ****/autodrain valve out to the front. Until you add an autodrain, you will be more inclined to drain it frequently if it's easy to access. My $0.02 worth. Bill
FlameOut
Well-known member
Still waiting on my new Quincy. Ordered it March 15th. It was scheduled for delivery last Thursday, but for some reason it was on a tractor tailor and he couldn't get on my street. Said I could come pick it up if I have a truck, but since I paid $100 extra for the lift gate service, I declined. Now it's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. They said they had to 'rent' a truck to deliver it to me
Salem747
Well-known member
In Canada the tank must have a date of manufacture on it. And judging by the paint colour matching I am pretty sure that the pumps are the same age as the tanks.
smooth72
Well-known member
Eaton 7.5hp, 2 stage, 80g tank. Should be done with manifold sometime tomorrow so I can fire it up and make some air
looks like the baby compressor off to the side. Very interested in this compressor, keep pics and review coming.
I'm finely able to add mine. I wish I had room to bring it home that is another project.
View media item 4226
Paint code: RAABE 6524 Blue Metallic Paint
Oil filter: Wix 51394
Breather Filter ?: OD4.375 ID3.000 Overall Height2.1875
Filpro FP10-15
American Wholesale Filters A424
Saylor Beall 6106
Belt Bestorq B77 or 5L800
Possible paint match Rust-Oleum? 1 part green,3 parts blue,and 10 parts hammered silver
View media item 4226
Paint code: RAABE 6524 Blue Metallic Paint
Oil filter: Wix 51394
Breather Filter ?: OD4.375 ID3.000 Overall Height2.1875
Filpro FP10-15
American Wholesale Filters A424
Saylor Beall 6106
Belt Bestorq B77 or 5L800
Possible paint match Rust-Oleum? 1 part green,3 parts blue,and 10 parts hammered silver
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FlameOut
Well-known member
Finally!!! After almost 5 weeks my new Quincy is here.
Anyone know if I should need to run this thing, under no load, to break in? I know my old compressor said to run with valve open (no pressure building up) for an hour or so, then change the oil.
This says: "A new or rebuilt reciprocating compressor should be run for a total of 100 hours at full discharge operating pressure to break in new piston rings" Do I really need to run this for 4 days straight? Doesn't sound right. Or does it just mean it will take about a 100 hours of operation before rings are properly seated? And does "at full discharge operating pressure" mean close all valves so the tank pressure build, or open them, so no pressure builds?
Anyone know if I should need to run this thing, under no load, to break in? I know my old compressor said to run with valve open (no pressure building up) for an hour or so, then change the oil.
This says: "A new or rebuilt reciprocating compressor should be run for a total of 100 hours at full discharge operating pressure to break in new piston rings" Do I really need to run this for 4 days straight? Doesn't sound right. Or does it just mean it will take about a 100 hours of operation before rings are properly seated? And does "at full discharge operating pressure" mean close all valves so the tank pressure build, or open them, so no pressure builds?
irisservice
Well-known member
Nightshift
Well-known member
Why don't you call Quincy and get the info direct from the horses mouth?
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"A new or rebuilt reciprocating compressor should be run for a total of 100 hours at full discharge operating pressure to break in new piston rings""
Googled this statement, found a few exact hits, it seems to be referring to oil usage being normally high for the first 100 hours of use, thus the need to check the oil level frequently during the 100 hr period. If it was necessary to run it for 100 hr straight you would have a fairly decent electric bill. Generally your running at 90-120 lbs for full discharge pressure
Most I would run it at 90-120 lbs off a regulator set at 120 would be an hour straight as a breakin, after doing the low pressure breakin as described below.
Breakin, as referred to by Eagle compressor...
1. Open the air receiver’s drain valve or
outlet valve.
2. Run the compressor for a minimum
of twenty (20) minutes in no-load
condition to lubricate the bearings and
pistons.
3. Close the air receiver drain valve and
the outlet valve. Your compressor is
now ready for use.
4. After 24 hours of operation check Vbelt
for proper tension. Check that the
compressor pulley and motor sheave
are aligned and fastened securely (see
items 9 and 10).
5. Nuts and bolts may loosen. Retighten
when necessary.
6. Compressor oil may turn black. This
is normal. Change after 100 hours.
Main point is is watch the oil level and change the oil at the correct intervals with the recommended type.
Googled this statement, found a few exact hits, it seems to be referring to oil usage being normally high for the first 100 hours of use, thus the need to check the oil level frequently during the 100 hr period. If it was necessary to run it for 100 hr straight you would have a fairly decent electric bill. Generally your running at 90-120 lbs for full discharge pressure
Most I would run it at 90-120 lbs off a regulator set at 120 would be an hour straight as a breakin, after doing the low pressure breakin as described below.
Breakin, as referred to by Eagle compressor...
1. Open the air receiver’s drain valve or
outlet valve.
2. Run the compressor for a minimum
of twenty (20) minutes in no-load
condition to lubricate the bearings and
pistons.
3. Close the air receiver drain valve and
the outlet valve. Your compressor is
now ready for use.
4. After 24 hours of operation check Vbelt
for proper tension. Check that the
compressor pulley and motor sheave
are aligned and fastened securely (see
items 9 and 10).
5. Nuts and bolts may loosen. Retighten
when necessary.
6. Compressor oil may turn black. This
is normal. Change after 100 hours.
Main point is is watch the oil level and change the oil at the correct intervals with the recommended type.
Jim Stabe
Well-known member
Here's mine - 2 stage, 80 gallon, $400 on a closeout sale. It has an aluminum pump so it probably won't last for 30 years of constant use but I don't use it constantly and I probably won't live for 30 more years either. Have it mounted in the mezannine out of the way with the drain plumbed down to where the start contactor is.
. It has an aluminum pump so it probably won't last for 30 years of constant use but I don't use it constantly and I probably won't live for 30 more years either. Have it mounted in the mezannine out of the way with the drain plumbed down to where the start contactor is.My Quincy QE-5 single phase 230v 5hp 60 gal. horizontal. FOR SALE by the way Runs good, but is a bit loud. No rust in tank. New (right before I mothballed it) pressure switch. The oil cooler leaks a bit but that is about all.
$600.00 obo Located in North Orange County CA PM or email me @ [email protected]
Runs good, but is a bit loud. No rust in tank. New (right before I mothballed it) pressure switch. The oil cooler leaks a bit but that is about all. $600.00 obo Located in North Orange County CA PM or email me @ [email protected]
gobeer net
Well-known member
Holy long thread batman . . . after reading this - yes all of it - I've decided to post up my recently inherited compressor. Spent a couple hours scrubbing and some time at the car wash to get the decades of build up off of the assembly. Below are a few pics. I'm hoping someone can clue me in as to model/age/etc. btw - I might not have read all of this thread, but at least the majority.
Anyone identify this thing? To me it looks like some of the Kellogg compressors earlier in this thread.
After getting the wiring figured out (had a burnt up contactor) it fires up and runs good. I'd guess it takes 8-10 minutes to build up 175psi from 0psi. Shuts off at 175'ish according to the gauge thats on the tank and one on my regulator. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do for plumbing yet. This was kind of overkill as all I wanted to do was upgrade from my walmart 10gallon compressor that has served me well.
Anyone identify this thing? To me it looks like some of the Kellogg compressors earlier in this thread.
After getting the wiring figured out (had a burnt up contactor) it fires up and runs good. I'd guess it takes 8-10 minutes to build up 175psi from 0psi. Shuts off at 175'ish according to the gauge thats on the tank and one on my regulator. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do for plumbing yet. This was kind of overkill as all I wanted to do was upgrade from my walmart 10gallon compressor that has served me well.
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gobeer net
Well-known member
Hrm. The rh "non motor" side of mine doesn't really match any of those "exactly". It has one heatsink type hose on the RH portion of the head that goes in at the end like the 352. Also the air filter inlet is on the top of the head which looks like the 321 or 352. Still yet the oil drain and oil level inspection glass look like the 352. Well dang me, its kinda looking like the 352?
If its a 352 then stats before 30 years of use are...
Kellogg American Two Stage Pumps #352TV 352TV
Number of Cycles 2
Bore LP/HP 5.5 & 3
Stroke 5
HP Range 7.5 - 10
Speed RPM - 1750 Motor 520 / 657
PSI 60 to 200
Normal Free CFM 25 / 35.2
Too bad its currently on a 3hp motor and no clue the rpm's at the pump.
On a separate note, recommendations on what oil to put in this thing? Now that I've confirmed it works, I'd like to change the oil and get a better filter before I start putting it to use.
