Any oil made for air compressor use will work. Here's is my 352
Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
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gobeer net
Well-known member
Any oil made for air compressor use will work. Here's is my 352
Yeah, I saw that on an earlier post. Its one of the images that got me thinking mine might be a Kellogg American. Why did you get rid of it?
Also - is this a vent for the crank case? Its wide open right now. Guessing I should do something with that.
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My new compressor, Ingersoll Rand Two-stage 5hp 80 Gal, replacing an old Craftsman 2 hp 20 Gal.
I have just ended the installation of 57 ft of line 3/4 black pipes for air cooling.
Thanks all of you for the informations and the advices that I found on this forum. My son likes restoring old VW Beetle.
I have just ended the installation of 57 ft of line 3/4 black pipes for air cooling.
Thanks all of you for the informations and the advices that I found on this forum. My son likes restoring old VW Beetle.
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Yeah, I saw that on an earlier post. Its one of the images that got me thinking mine might be a Kellogg American. Why did you get rid of it?
Also - is this a vent for the crank case? Its wide open right now. Guessing I should do something with that.
Still have it, I'm going to rebuild it, I paid .99cents for it.
Don't know about the vent.
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Zrexxer
Well-known member
I think you'll find that's the vent for the centrifugal unloader. It's not open to the crankcase.
My new compressor, Ingersoll Rand Two-stage 5hp 80 Gal, replacing an old Craftsman 2 hp 20 Gal.
I have just ended the installation of 57 ft of line 3/4 black pipes for air cooling.
Thanks all of you for the informations and the advices that I found on this forum. My son likes restoring old VW Beetle.
Nice set up, I just started on our 72 Bug. I'm holding out on a friends black pipe set up from his old shop. My DA's spitting out water(better filter needed)
My speedaire has something like that, but it has a metal tube that sticks straight up about 6 inches. There's a stopper in the top that says "oil" on it so I've added a bit of oil that way but it goes in fairly slowly and will overflow a bit if you pour too quickly. Underneath the stopper is a plug made of this very coarse steel wool type material. I assumed that it acted a bit like a filter or strainer.
Sorry for my lack of proper terminology. Can anyone confirm the purpose of this? Is it a vent of some sort? IS it simply a way to top off oil? Anyone know what the steel wool looking plug is for so that I can get another one?
Here's my latest accquisition -- a Wayne 6550, with a 7.5hp 3-phase motor. Not quite sure what I will do with it yet...
Very nice, do you have 3 phase power?
Nope. I may try to run it from my 5hp single phase farm duty motor at a reduced speed, but have been unable to find a minimum RPM spec (or any specs, for that matter). It will likely collect dust until I find a bigger motor. But the price was right...
FlameOut
Well-known member
After a few weeks, my new Quincy quit running
It just makes a real loud humming noise, and the motor doesn't turn the compressor. I called Quincy and they seem to think it's something to do with the voltage going to the compressor. I have a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire. It ran fine up until Friday (I'm just glad I was in the garage when it attempted to kick on)
They suggested I change the 30 amp breaker to a 50 amp. Would that really cause this problem? I haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet
Steve from Socal
Well-known member
After a few weeks, my new Quincy quit running
It just makes a real loud humming noise, and the motor doesn't turn the compressor. I called Quincy and they seem to think it's something to do with the voltage going to the compressor. I have a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire. It ran fine up until Friday (I'm just glad I was in the garage when it attempted to kick on)
They suggested I change the 30 amp breaker to a 50 amp. Would that really cause this problem? I haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet
A 30 amp breaker should handle the inrush current, if it worked before I would suspect the start capacitor.
Steve
Steve in Mi
Well-known member
I agree, it worked before @ 30 amp no reason it wouldn't again. I'd look at the start capacitor and/or the compressor head unloader (check valve). Failure of either could result in the motor hum without starting.
KCarGuy
Well-known member
I have 2 right now...
My 1954 Kellogg American 80 Gallon 5 HP 220V system which was just rebuilt 2 years ago.
I have owned it for just over 30 years now.
And my newly aquired Campbell Hausfeld (marked Westfard) 60 gallon 5 HP 220V system.
Got it both for free, The newest one had a smashed Pressure switch and Air Filters from someone letting it get away from them during a loading process...cost me about $60 to repair.
Down the road, I'll connect them together after I rebuild the "Compressor room" to house them both.
My 1954 Kellogg American 80 Gallon 5 HP 220V system which was just rebuilt 2 years ago.
I have owned it for just over 30 years now.
And my newly aquired Campbell Hausfeld (marked Westfard) 60 gallon 5 HP 220V system.
Got it both for free, The newest one had a smashed Pressure switch and Air Filters from someone letting it get away from them during a loading process...cost me about $60 to repair.
Down the road, I'll connect them together after I rebuild the "Compressor room" to house them both.
Attachments
After a few weeks, my new Quincy quit running
It just makes a real loud humming noise, and the motor doesn't turn the compressor. I called Quincy and they seem to think it's something to do with the voltage going to the compressor. I have a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire. It ran fine up until Friday (I'm just glad I was in the garage when it attempted to kick on)
They suggested I change the 30 amp breaker to a 50 amp. Would that really cause this problem? I haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet
Is the unloader unloading? No Pssst noise at shutoff means full pressure in the cylinder heads. That will stall the motor in a hurry.
spongerich
Well-known member
How about this one?
Vintage who-knows-when?
Cadillac Compressor.
I looked up the manufacturer but found nothing. When I googled the address, there's a Chinese restaurant there now.
Vintage who-knows-when?
Cadillac Compressor.
I looked up the manufacturer but found nothing. When I googled the address, there's a Chinese restaurant there now.
FlameOut
Well-known member
It can't be that. Today I removed the drive belt to just see if the motor would run. The motor actually does run, but it's really slow, and after about 10 seconds it trips the 30 amp breaker.
I found out I have 12 gauge going to the compressor, not 10. Could that cause it? I'm going to get wire tomorrow and run all new correct gauge wire. Probably 6 gauge from the house to garage (60 amp subpanel), then 10 gauge from sub panel to compressor. This ***** my made in china compressor ran fine for 2 years, then I spend three times the price for the made in USA compressor, and it fails after 3 weeks.
I guess I have to at least attempt changing the wire before calling Quincy back. I just don't see how it would run fine for 3 weeks then all of a sudden just quit. Oh, checking the voltage one line was 121v and the other 119.8, so I guess the voltage is fine, but maybe the wire can't handle the amps?
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
I have a sneaky idea that your undersized wiring has smoked the starting capacitors or something else on your motor. If you have a 5 HP motor (and I was wiring it up for my use) there would be 8 ga wire running to it. I have mine on a 30 amp breaker without any problems whatsoever as do a lot of others on this board but none of us used 12 ga wire......
SgtRauksauff
Well-known member
Greetings!
This is my first post on GJ, but I've been lurking/reading/drooling for awhile.
Anyways, I just picked this up today:
Quincy 202 pump, with a Dayton (whose parent company is Grainger, interestingly enough) 5hp 'continuous duty' 3-ph. motor. All sitting on a 120-gallon Buckeye Boiler Company tank. I'm pretty sure the tank is from 1970-something, not really sure yet on when the other stuff was manufactured. Tank age concerns me a bit, but I plan on going over it very closely, and checking it out. there seems to be mostly only flaked-off paint, and the resultant surface oxidation, but no pock-marked/cratered metal anywhere, which is a good sign. I kind of want to get a vertical tank at some point anyways, since it's just easier from a small-garage point of view. I suppose I could house the unit outside, but that will bring in a completely different ball of wax....
It was last used about a year and a half ago, at a fertilizer manufacturing plant. It had three very large, 1" or so, hoses coming off the tank, that went into the bottom of the gigantic chemical bins, and the air would keep the chemical in suspension. I'm not sure if this was powdered or liquid fertilizer.
It's going to need a little TLC, at least an air filter, new main bearings and oil seal, but otherwise things seem to be OK. I'm going to have to wrangle up a single-phase motor as well, since I don't have 3-phase power to my garage. Which will probably need to include a magnetic starter or some such, I'm still learning. It's going to get an aftercooler of some sort, I haven't decided exactly what yet, I need to raid the junkpiles at work to see what I can scrounge.
Judging by the current setup, the drive pulley (or sheave, if you read the manuals) is 6.5", the compressor pulley is 14", and the motor is rated at 1740rpm. So theoretically, this indicates the pump should spin at around 807rpm. Minimum is 400rpm, max is 1060, so I think this should be pushing somewhere around 16-17cfm @175psig, according to the Quincy brochure PDF. At any rate, it should be enough air for me, with my biggest tool (so far) being a tire changer that uses 12cfm@135psi (Hunter TC3500).
The next couple of weeks are going to be fun and educational, as I get this puppy up and running! Anyways, here are some photos I took today (that's my father in the first pic, checking out the new tool/toy):
--sarge
This is my first post on GJ, but I've been lurking/reading/drooling for awhile.
Anyways, I just picked this up today:
Quincy 202 pump, with a Dayton (whose parent company is Grainger, interestingly enough) 5hp 'continuous duty' 3-ph. motor. All sitting on a 120-gallon Buckeye Boiler Company tank. I'm pretty sure the tank is from 1970-something, not really sure yet on when the other stuff was manufactured. Tank age concerns me a bit, but I plan on going over it very closely, and checking it out. there seems to be mostly only flaked-off paint, and the resultant surface oxidation, but no pock-marked/cratered metal anywhere, which is a good sign. I kind of want to get a vertical tank at some point anyways, since it's just easier from a small-garage point of view. I suppose I could house the unit outside, but that will bring in a completely different ball of wax....
It was last used about a year and a half ago, at a fertilizer manufacturing plant. It had three very large, 1" or so, hoses coming off the tank, that went into the bottom of the gigantic chemical bins, and the air would keep the chemical in suspension. I'm not sure if this was powdered or liquid fertilizer.
It's going to need a little TLC, at least an air filter, new main bearings and oil seal, but otherwise things seem to be OK. I'm going to have to wrangle up a single-phase motor as well, since I don't have 3-phase power to my garage. Which will probably need to include a magnetic starter or some such, I'm still learning. It's going to get an aftercooler of some sort, I haven't decided exactly what yet, I need to raid the junkpiles at work to see what I can scrounge.
Judging by the current setup, the drive pulley (or sheave, if you read the manuals) is 6.5", the compressor pulley is 14", and the motor is rated at 1740rpm. So theoretically, this indicates the pump should spin at around 807rpm. Minimum is 400rpm, max is 1060, so I think this should be pushing somewhere around 16-17cfm @175psig, according to the Quincy brochure PDF. At any rate, it should be enough air for me, with my biggest tool (so far) being a tire changer that uses 12cfm@135psi (Hunter TC3500).
The next couple of weeks are going to be fun and educational, as I get this puppy up and running! Anyways, here are some photos I took today (that's my father in the first pic, checking out the new tool/toy):
--sarge
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FlameOut
Well-known member
I spent the day running new wire to my garage, and even ran a new 10 gauge feed to the compressor. Same thing, motor turns slow, and it's loud. Gets hot pretty quickly, even though I only have it running a few seconds
How in the world do you fit 8 gauge wire in that little box? I had a hell of a time getting the 10 gauge in there.
I called Quincy back, and I guess they are contacting a local distributor in my area, They said I will be receiving a call. So far nothing today though.
Anyone that has this same compressor, how did you wire it? Black wire to that second terminal from the right, red wire to that red taped wire, and the white and ground wires to the ground screws? I guess I probably should be asking these questions in the lighting/electrical forum
Hurricane_Whisperer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2009
- Messages
- 359
Your compressor comes with a wiring diagram. You need that and you need to know how you are wired at the panel.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
I think the existing motor is already toasted. Running new wire now will not help it. It WILL help the new motor though......
rlwhitetr3b
Well-known member
sooooooooooooo--did any body really say what was wrong in using the different types of solder on their copper air lines???? i am going to run more lines in my garage and wanted to know.
I was taught that you do not want to use acid core solder with copper. The acid will continue to eat the copper and cause you problems later. Use rosin core.
If that is not your choices, maybe someone else will give you better information.
Sounds like the start windings or cent. switch is bad.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Silver solder will give you a stronger joint and has a higher melting temp than the other common solders in use. If you read the Quincy manuals closely, they recommend either threaded iron pipe or silver soldered copper pipe for airlines.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Man, I'm tempted to make you an offer on this...and you are close to me too. I need to run a sandblast cabinet I bought from CL and I don't know how much air volume it needs (no sticker or paperwork for it) but I know its likely more than my 25-30 gallon 110v unit will make. What kind of CFM does this beast put out?
My Quincy QE-5 single phase 230v 5hp 60 gal. horizontal. FOR SALE by the way
$600.00 obo Located in North Orange County CA PM or email me @ [email protected]
SgtRauksauff
Well-known member
Well, then. Project update: traded in the Dayton 3-phase motor, and left with a Baldor Single phase for $211 out the door. Good deal in my book!
Also, talking to the Quincy reps in my area, they concluded that with my particular pump (202) there is supposed to be some movement there, and the movement I'm describing is well within the norm, so the bearings do not need replacing. The seal might be dried out, but Hopefully with a fresh oil change, and after running it for a bit, the seal should be fine. Otherwise, a seal replacement is in order, but it's not that big of a deal. Time consuming, but fairly straightforward.
So now on to plumbing the pump to the tank:
Question 1: What do people use for the discharge pipe between the compressor and tank? Some old, kinked 3/4" copper tubing is what's on there, but it's very much the worse for wear, and I'd like to replace it. It seems to have ends which are not the typical compression type, it almost looks like the copper tube was slightly bubble-flared at the end, with a brass ring above the flare, and the nut above that. I've not really seen this kind of connection before, but I wouldn't say I'm uber-experienced in the ways of copper pipes.
I've found all sorts of stuff for 1/2" holes, but not a lot for 3/4", which is what I'm dealing with.
Also: I'm going to be making some sort of aftercooler, since a refrigerated dryer is ridiculously expensive for my needs right now. I want to keep 3/4" piping, since this will be between the compressor and the tank. It just seems that going to a smaller diameter between the pump and receiver will just make a bunch more heat in the pump head, which is not good, and limit the actual airflow, also not good.
Question 2: Has anyone ever thought of using finned tubing from radiant baseboard heaters? It's 3/4" copper, so would meet the size requirement. It would need my own addition of elbows/loops onto the end by way of soldering, but that's easy.
Question 2a:Will this finned-tube pipe be on the too-thin size for compressed air? I plan on a max pressure of 140-150 in the tank, since I'll only regularly use 135psi for my tire changer, and the rest of my air tools I currently regulate to 90 normally.
I was googling around for 'finned tube' or something, and ran across This Link Which prompted me to consider this as an option that may pan out to be fairly economical.
I'm figuring 3/4" NPT out of the compressor, right into this tube, straight across over the motor, and then make a grid on the far side of the mounting plate, with a fan attached.
Dangit, this is supposed to be a 'show off' thread, sorry for not including a picture this time around...
--sarge
Also, talking to the Quincy reps in my area, they concluded that with my particular pump (202) there is supposed to be some movement there, and the movement I'm describing is well within the norm, so the bearings do not need replacing. The seal might be dried out, but Hopefully with a fresh oil change, and after running it for a bit, the seal should be fine. Otherwise, a seal replacement is in order, but it's not that big of a deal. Time consuming, but fairly straightforward.
So now on to plumbing the pump to the tank:
Question 1: What do people use for the discharge pipe between the compressor and tank? Some old, kinked 3/4" copper tubing is what's on there, but it's very much the worse for wear, and I'd like to replace it. It seems to have ends which are not the typical compression type, it almost looks like the copper tube was slightly bubble-flared at the end, with a brass ring above the flare, and the nut above that. I've not really seen this kind of connection before, but I wouldn't say I'm uber-experienced in the ways of copper pipes.
I've found all sorts of stuff for 1/2" holes, but not a lot for 3/4", which is what I'm dealing with.
Also: I'm going to be making some sort of aftercooler, since a refrigerated dryer is ridiculously expensive for my needs right now. I want to keep 3/4" piping, since this will be between the compressor and the tank. It just seems that going to a smaller diameter between the pump and receiver will just make a bunch more heat in the pump head, which is not good, and limit the actual airflow, also not good.
Question 2: Has anyone ever thought of using finned tubing from radiant baseboard heaters? It's 3/4" copper, so would meet the size requirement. It would need my own addition of elbows/loops onto the end by way of soldering, but that's easy.
Question 2a:Will this finned-tube pipe be on the too-thin size for compressed air? I plan on a max pressure of 140-150 in the tank, since I'll only regularly use 135psi for my tire changer, and the rest of my air tools I currently regulate to 90 normally.
I was googling around for 'finned tube' or something, and ran across This Link Which prompted me to consider this as an option that may pan out to be fairly economical.
I'm figuring 3/4" NPT out of the compressor, right into this tube, straight across over the motor, and then make a grid on the far side of the mounting plate, with a fan attached.
Dangit, this is supposed to be a 'show off' thread, sorry for not including a picture this time around...
--sarge
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Ebay for the cooler.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/THERMAL-TRANSFE...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f48194f
http://cgi.ebay.com/THERMAL-TRANSFE...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f48194f
I previously had an older all USA made CH that was the "cheater" 5hp and fast turning pump. It would not keep up very well with HVLP and sandblasting took forever. Instead of beating it to death, I decided to upgrade after reading this thread. I sold it on CL along with a couple of air tools for $450 and put the money towards this machine. I found it on eBay and picked it up for $520. It went into service in 1993 in an upholstery shop which ran two staplers and a glue gun. The guy I bought it from picked it up ~ 7 years ago, changed the oil, and only ran it once as his phase converter was not large enough and he never got around to a different solution. He was moving, so onto eBay it went. I had to drive to Akron to get it (about 180 miles) but it was worth the trip. I replaced the motor with a Baldor single phase that I picked up for $255 (eBay) and it runs great. The motor turns at 1725rpm and the 335TVX cast iron pump turns at 700rpm that gets me 17.0cfm at 175psi. It's pretty quiet with a real low thumping tone when it runs. It came with a Speedaire regulator, several hoses, an intake silencer and the original heavy *** pallet! I plan on cleaning it up a bit as this is the condition I picked it up in and then moving it to its final spot in the garage. Does anyone know where to get some Kellogg American Blue hammer tone paint? I tried Comp Air, but they no longer paint their machines this color.
Dave
________
CHEAP VAPORIZER
Dave
________
CHEAP VAPORIZER
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FlameOut
Well-known member
Just an update on my motor problems. Quincy sent a new motor to the local distributor, and the guy was here for about an hour or so installing. Works great now! Great customer service.
Zrexxer
Well-known member
Why? The paint on that machine looks better than on a lot of brand new compressors. I'd wipe it clean and leave it be.
mixxmstrmike
Well-known member
So will you be permanently running new wiring from your subpanel to the compressor?
I'd be curious as to what they find with that motor. I have the same exact model you have, recently installed too.
So I'm on the lookout for any kind of failure.
-Mike
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Steve in Mi
Well-known member
ddrewyor, I can relate to wanting to protect your investment. I like to keep tools/machines painted to prevent rust from taking over. I see no more than a couple of small chips in the paint on your FANTASTIC air compressor but it's your call... if it were me.... in this case... I would give it wipe-down with Turtle Cleaner/Wax, buff it a bit and move on.
Ok - you've convinced me. I will just clean it off and give it a wax job to protect it.
Lhorn - if the Speedaire green is not hammer tone, then it can be matched. I went to Painters supply in Detroit and they could match my color in a rattle can, but not the hammer tone finish. They suggested using a light spray of WD-40 after spraying the paint to make it mottled. Has anyone tried that?
Dave
________
Extreme q vaporizer
Lhorn - if the Speedaire green is not hammer tone, then it can be matched. I went to Painters supply in Detroit and they could match my color in a rattle can, but not the hammer tone finish. They suggested using a light spray of WD-40 after spraying the paint to make it mottled. Has anyone tried that?
Dave
________
Extreme q vaporizer
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