compression tester

[goldie lox]

looking to get a compression tester. wont be using it a lot. thought about getting the hf one but not sure with the reviews. really not looking to get the top of the line but not wanting garbage.

 

[Showkey]

If I had to choose one tool I would purchase a cylinder leak down tester instead of a compression gauge. I not purchase either at HF.

 

[Warped5]

Lisle makes a good gauge for not a lot of money. Here's one on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-20250...1805375480&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

 

[Buster21]

Another vote for Lisle. I have had mine for at least 30 years and it still works perfect !!!!

 

[decableguy2000]

I have amiddle of the road with a Craftsman Pro (made by Mityvac), it works well for me mostly on 2 stoke engines and has all the attachments I need.

Jeremy

 

[bob_the_builder]

I have the OTC one and it has worked well on my Silverado trucks and was cheap on Amazon.

 

[Conductor562]

Kinda ironic, I just got the Mac CT-155 set on Friday, haven't even used it yet.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Cman set has worked well for me.

 

[Dust Devil]

the Craftsman is a pretty damn nice set.

 

[Shockwave179]

I have an Innova one, seems to work alright. Similar price range to the Lisle that was posted above.

 

[Conductor562]

the Craftsman is a pretty damn nice set.

It is. We used the $90 Craftsman set until it was left in a field late last racing season. Can't complain about it.

 

['52Chevy]

If I had to choose one tool I would purchase a cylinder leak down tester instead of a compression gauge. I not purchase either at HF.

Why would you purchase the leak down tester over the compression tester?

 

[mustangtyson]

Why would you purchase the leak down tester over the compression tester?

You can test the engine without turning it over. So out of the car or with a dead battery. You can test either at the top of the cylinder or at the bottom. While testing you can see where any gross leakage is happening and can see bubbles or hear the air.

 

[neuralsnafu]

I've used the otc tester... worked good. And didn't require any special bs with my euro car...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[2oolhound]

Make sure it has a pressure release (bleeder) valve so you can start fresh when you want without having to unscrew fittings.

A leak down and compression gauges are 2 different tools. Leakdown uses compressed air through the spark plug holes for readings and compression tester is just that, a reading of actual compression through intake valves (and some valve overlap) that is sealed by the rings and achieved from the stroke of the piston.

 

[MrGiggles]

You can test the engine without turning it over. So out of the car or with a dead battery. You can test either at the top of the cylinder or at the bottom. While testing you can see where any gross leakage is happening and can see bubbles or hear the air.

The piston really needs to at TDC or close to it for a conclusive leak down test. Otherwise the valves may be open slightly, rendering the test invalid. Some engines may pass at BDC, others may have a bit of overlap and fail.

Why would you purchase the leak down tester over the compression tester?

The results are more conclusive than a compression test if trying to troubleshoot a misfire. A leak down test not only shows the cylinder's ability to hold pressure, but where it's going if there is a leak, therefore narrowing the problem to a specific component.

A compression test is usually done to evaluate engine condition and to pinpoint a weak cylinder.

Having both tools is best, but you can do more with only a leak down tester than you can with only a compression tester.

 

[royesses]

The piston really needs to at TDC or close to it for a conclusive leak down test. Otherwise the valves may be open slightly, rendering the test invalid. Some engines may pass at BDC, others may have a bit of overlap and fail.



The results are more conclusive than a compression test if trying to troubleshoot a misfire. A leak down test not only shows the cylinder's ability to hold pressure, but where it's going if there is a leak, therefore narrowing the problem to a specific component.

A compression test is usually done to evaluate engine condition and to pinpoint a weak cylinder.

Having both tools is best, but you can do more with only a leak down tester than you can with only a compression tester.

Right. Use the companion cylinder on the valve rocking point if the valve covers are easy to remove. Blow smoke in with the leak down tester to get a visual of whats leaking. Compression tester and leak down tester compliment each other. At least that's how it was when I wrenched for a living.

 

[turfgnome]

Why would you purchase the leak down tester over the compression tester?

the best way to explain it is this, a compression tester tells you that you have a problem a leakdown can tell you what the problem is.

 

[jrobb316]

This is the leak down tester I use:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J88GTU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Once you use one, there is really no need for a compression tester. The compression test might tell you something is wrong, then you're reaching for this to find out what is wrong.

 

[racinfarmer]

Do not get the Horrible Freight one. My friend picked one up with the same thought, only use it a few times a year at swap meets to test sleds. We never got any of the 3 to read over 60psi. Put my Lisle on the sleds and it'll at least give me a good idea of that they really have for compression.

 

[spasticone]

I've used the otc tester... worked good. And didn't require any special bs with my euro car...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

The OTC kit is the same kit mac and Matco sells. I purchased mine on amazon a few years ago for 50ish bucks when I got into chainsaws. Works great.

Before I bought it, My harbor freight gauge fell apart into a saw and dinged the exhaust port.

 

[neuralsnafu]

I just rented it from autozone... thought I had popped a piston, but alas, just a fried headgasket...

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