Compressor connections,...........

[460Rustang]

Finally getting around to hooking up my compressor, thanks to the help of a lot you guys.

The cable that was hooked up by the previous owner has ends crimped onto it, not sure what size wire, but it's smaller than the 10/3 that I'm running, any special ends to buy, or secret to get a good connection when crimping the ends down?

I was really expecting a connection other than this, one where I would just insert the leads directly and then tighten them down

 

[MrMark]

I've never seen a solid wire crimped like that. Generally you do not want solid wires going to the compressor because of the vibration. I would switch that out to stranded THWN and crimp with a ratcheting crimper.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Looking at picture #2 and #3 that is actually a "faston" connector and an adapter ! Hold the part where the wire is crimped on and then grab the other end with pliers and pull.

You were not supposed to undo the screw. No harm, no foul ! Just put the adapter tab back on and screw down.

Finding a faston style crimp connector is not easy. It took me awhile to find these. Molex 19016-0069

As stated solid and crimp connectors are not a good combination. I would buy some 10 gauge SOOW cord, put the crimps on one end and then run it over to a junction box mounted on the wall. This is one case where I would suggest that the end of the cord in the junction box be tinned with solder before joined to the solid wire with wire nuts.

 

[nehog]

A good example of improperly crimped terminals, the wrong terminals for the wire (assuming that solid wire was what is/was crimped on that terminal.) To me it looks like he shoved spade terminals into the wrong connector type.

 

[460Rustang]

I haven't taken anything apart, the cable on the right is the #10 that I need the ends on,.....I'll just try to hand crimp them.

Whats crimped on there now, is multiple strands vs the single cable #10 that I wanna crimp,....any issues with crimping a single strand #10?

 

[nehog]

...
Whats crimped on there now, is multiple strands vs the single cable #10 that I wanna crimp,....any issues with crimping a single strand #10?

1. First I want to correct my post above, that's the adapter under the screw, not a spade terminal. My bad!

2. Do not crimp to solid wire. Just put it under the screw, that's the way it was intended to be done probably (can't tell for 100% sure, since I can't see it or model information.) But don't crimp terminals on solid wire--it will fail.

3. If you must use a terminal, on solid wire, solder it. But I don't recommend it.

 

[460Rustang]

Looking at picture #2 and #3 that is actually a "faston" connector and an adapter ! Hold the part where the wire is crimped on and then grab the other end with pliers and pull.

You were not supposed to undo the screw. No harm, no foul ! Just put the adapter tab back on and screw down.

Finding a faston style crimp connector is not easy. It took me awhile to find these. Molex 19016-0069

As stated solid and crimp connectors are not a good combination. I would buy some 10 gauge SOOW cord, put the crimps on one end and then run it over to a junction box mounted on the wall. This is one case where I would suggest that the end of the cord in the junction box be tinned with solder before joined to the solid wire with wire nuts.

1. First I want to correct my post above, that's the adapter under the screw, not a spade terminal. My bad!

2. Do not crimp to solid wire. Just put it under the screw, that's the way it was intended to be done probably (can't tell for 100% sure, since I can't see it or model information.) But don't crimp terminals on solid wire--it will fail.

3. If you must use a terminal, on solid wire, solder it. But I don't recommend it.

It looks like this FASTON style end slips onto the compressor connection first, then you push in the hots, then tighten them down,...help me out here guys.

 

[460Rustang]

Right now I have the #10 going from the panel, to a box, through a whip to the comp; short run, less than a foot.

Drywall hasn't been hung yet.

 

[djjsr]

Run the #10 to a box near the compressor and install a receptacle. Install a cord and plug on the compressor and plug it in.

 

[OccupantRJ]

That must be a decent size compressor to think you need #8 feeding it. Those push connectors look like factory terminations. I don't think they would have been used on a unit with very much amp draw. It was running on the existing feed wiring before, why not use it now? Run it to your junction box and wire nut it together or put a plug on it. Anything pulling any amperage would have had different terminals. What is the voltage and amp rating on your compressor?

 

[460Rustang]

20 ish amps, needs to be hard wired, 5 HP.

I bought this second hand, "new', but wouldn't assume that it was hooked up correctly.

 

[theoldwizard1]

It looks like this FASTON style end slips onto the compressor connection first, then you push in the hots, then tighten them down,...help me out here guys.

Put the adapter back under the screw, tighten, push on faston.

My compressor (admittedly only 2 hp) has the same adapters and fastons.

 

[460Rustang]

If it'll fit, can I just bend the #10 into a "U", insert it and then tighten it down,....not sure why I didn't think of this, now it seems to be easy,....?

 

[b-body-bob]

Hard to tell from looking at that photo but the connector looks like it's intended to just have the solid wire stuck straight in and pinched under the screw when it's tightened down.

 

[460Rustang]

The opening isn't that small for the screw to hit it head on, securely and not push it to the side.

That's what I though would be the easiest way for a connection, just like in the main lug panel.

 

[460Rustang]

Now that I look at the picture again, something fat is making an indention onto the clip,...hmmmm

 

[b-body-bob]

If the connector has a box around it like a lug (photo makes it seem like it does), if the wire pushes over it'll just pin it against the side.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Run the #10 to a box near the compressor and install a receptacle. Install a cord and plug on the compressor and plug it in.

If the compressor is more than 3hp, the a recepticle can not be used and it must be hard wired!

If hard wired, then cordage would not be to code as it is not meant to be used for permanent installation.

 

[460Rustang]

Hardwired,..yes.

 

[djjsr]

If the compressor is more than 3hp, the a recepticle can not be used and it must be hard wired!

If hard wired, then cordage would not be to code as it is not meant to be used for permanent installation.

Sorry, I had no idea. What's the problem? It's probably less than 25 amps isn't it?

If no cord, how about running the #10 solid wire to a box as I suggested then use stranded in flex conduit to the compressor?

 

[460Rustang]

Yes, low 20 ish amps.

 

[460Rustang]

This is a closeup of what the compressor connection looks like inside, it's metal with a "threaded screw" in the middle that has a "head" that squeezes down when you tighten it up.

Because of the fixed screw in the middle, the "head" can't squeeze down on the # 10 strand in the middle of the connection, but this strand can be placed to either side of the middle of the "threaded screw" and then tightened. It is then squeezed tight between the connectors body and the "head", I'm guessing that this will be a good / solid connection.

It's this "head" that has made the indention on the clip that the previous owner was using. He was using stranded wire with the clip vs the NM that I'll be running.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Stranded wire is normally used on machinery due to fatigue cracking from vibration. However, if you are dead set on using the solid, you may be able to modify one of these to a fork configuration, or there may be a fork style unit available.

http://lugsdirect.com/images/S6-slotted-500x.jpg

 

[460Rustang]

Not set on anything, looks like I'm gonna wire nut the NM to THHN in a box, run the THHN through a whip, then fork crimp the it to the comp.

THANKS guys!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Sorry, I had no idea. What's the problem? It's probably less than 25 amps isn't it?

If no cord, how about running the #10 solid wire to a box as I suggested then use stranded in flex conduit to the compressor?

Because standard nema outlets arent rated for more than 3 horsepower. If u look at motor equipment, such as starters, it will be rated in HP.

 

[460Rustang]

Thanks for the help guys, it's amazing what you can learn from friends willing to take the time and give you a hand,....

#10 NM to a junction box, wire nutted to #10 THHN, ground was pigtailed to the box and the THHN, then all THHN was run through a whip to the comp connections.

THHN crimped much easier and tighter that the NM. I shoudda used a bigger box, but it did all fit.

Thanks pattenp

 

[Norcal]

The exposed wiring at the compressor is not Kosher, nor is the use of a white (grounded) conductor as a grounding conductor, + no proper strain relief connector at that effing handy/Gem box, if there any reason to ban DIY (Destroy It Yourself) wiring it is for the the use of those GD boxes. DIYers love those abominations & they are a PITA, like trying to stuff 10 pounds of **** into a 5 pound bag, use a 4X4 box & ring instead.

If that 10/3 NM cable has no grounding conductor, it's scrap metal I cannot think of any code compliant use of it.

 

[madosta]

The exposed wiring at the compressor is not Kosher, nor is the use of a white (grounded) conductor as a grounding conductor, + no proper strain relief connector at that effing handy/Gem box, if there any reason to ban DIY (Destroy It Yourself) wiring it is for the the use of those GD boxes. DIYers love those abominations & they are a PITA, like trying to stuff 10 pounds of **** into a 5 pound bag, use a 4X4 box & ring instead.

If that 10/3 NM cable has no grounding conductor, it's scrap metal I cannot think of any code compliant use of it.

^^ What he said.

Yea how come there's no bare copper wire in that 10 gauge NM? Also your grounding screw should be green and the THHN ground needs to be green.

 

[Norcal]

^^ What he said.

Yea how come there's no bare copper wire in that 10 gauge NM? Also your grounding screw should be green and the THHN ground needs to be green.

It used to be common when a 3-wire dryer feed was allowed for new installations, I cannot see any use for the stuff today.

 

[460Rustang]

Thanks for the input

The exposed wiring at the compressor is not Kosher,

What would go there, from the factory there are exposed wires under the motor.

nor is the use of a white (grounded) conductor as a grounding conductor, + no proper strain relief connector at that effing handy/Gem box,

Damn, you're right, I cut off the bare ground and used the white neutral as the ground.


if there any reason to ban DIY (Destroy It Yourself) wiring it is for the the use of those GD boxes. DIYers love those abominations & they are a PITA, like trying to stuff 10 pounds of **** into a 5 pound bag, use a 4X4 box & ring instead.

I did address the small box, larger woudda been easier.


Show me a pic of strain relief suggestion.


I'll be fixing this tomorrow,...THANKS!

 

[460Rustang]

^^ What he said.

Yea how come there's no bare copper wire in that 10 gauge NM? Also your grounding screw should be green and the THHN ground needs to be green.

THHN green should be tied to the bare NM ground then grounded to the box and the comp?

 

[Norcal]

Proper strain relief connector: A NM / Romex® connector.

 

[460Rustang]

gotcha

 

[pattenp]

Yes. When you PM'd me I didn't think to specify that the THHN ground need to be green. Also as has been said the NM should have a bare ground. So is the bare ground just cut off short? Do you have enough slack to strip back to get the bare ground?

THHN green should be tied to the bare NM ground then grounded to the box and the comp?

 

[460Rustang]

Thanks for the review, especially the PM's from you Pattenp,....

I'll be looking for the same with the main lug panel guys

 

[nehog]

Thanks for the review, especially the PM's from you Pattenp,....

I'll be looking for the same here guys

Uh, no, you cannot connect the bare ground wire to the device's white neutral wire. Either connect white to white, or run a proper ground wire.

 

[460Rustang]

Yes. When you PM'd me I didn't think to specify that the THHN ground need to be green. Also as has been said the NM should have a bare ground. So is the bare ground just cut off short? Do you have enough slack to strip back to get the bare ground?

Uh, no, you cannot connect the bare ground wire to the device's white neutral wire. Either connect white to white, or run a proper ground wire.

Kinda missed the part on the THHN ground being green, not Romex white. Yes, I left a lot of slack.

Not color code, correct, but there's no neutral on the comp, so the next owner hopefully should see that the bare ground continues to be the ground, even though it's white, for the remaining twelve inches to the compressor.

Thanks again for the help, flame retardant suit on,....

 

[pattenp]

Go to Lowe's or HD and get a piece cut of the green THHN for the ground. You've taken all this time to ask questions to do it right, don't lazy out on it at the end. And put a wirenut on the end of the unused NM white.

 

[460Rustang]

Wingnut was added, I'll haveta take it apart / move it for sheetrock, so I'll swap out that green ground then,..thanks!

 

[djjsr]

Good thread, I learned something about the hardwiring requirement. I ran a 5 hp compressor using a cord and plug for several years without a problem but I guess it wasn't the right thing to do.