compressor drain ball valve

[PoorOwner]

I was wondeirng what kind of elbow do you guys use (brass, galvanized etc) and I do you just force the next turn so that it points the exact direction you want? I hope it does not snap off.

Teflon tape or use rector seal 5?

 

[ImportTuner]

I'm using all stainless steel parts from http://www.swagelok.com/

 

[PoorOwner]

Oh blinger.. we aren't running an hospital here..

 

[ImportTuner]

Oh blinger.. we aren't running an hospital here..

A friend of mine supplied me with the parts ....

 

[Norton155]

I used a galvanized elbow and short piece of pipe with a brass ball valve. I did not tighten it as much as I could have, just used plenty of teflon tape. No leeks since I have done it about a month ago. I can probably get it around one or two more times but I just left it sticking out the way I needed it to go.

 

[eschoendorff]

I used a galvanized elbow and short piece of pipe with a brass ball valve. I did not tighten it as much as I could have, just used plenty of teflon tape. No leeks since I have done it about a month ago. I can probably get it around one or two more times but I just left it sticking out the way I needed it to go.

Same here. Cheap, easy and I haven't had to worry abut it.

 

[Lyaec350]

Use brass, the incremental cost over galv is like $1.00 for the entire set of parts you'll need and you can be confident that it will never rust.

You'll need a 1/4" x 1/4" street elbow, 2 short straight sections (length dependent on your compressor) a 1/4" ball valve and a 1/4" by 1/4" standard elbow.

From the compressor:
Street elbow -> ****** -> ball valve -> ****** -> standard elbow

The last elbow keeps the water from shooting 2-3 feet out across your shop and instead directs it straight down. If you have a nearby floor drain I suppose you could put some plastic tubing over the last ****** and then direct the water whereever you wish.

 

[eschoendorff]

Use brass, the incremental cost over galv is like $1.00 for the entire set of parts you'll need and you can be confident that it will never rust.

You'll need a 1/4" x 1/4" street elbow, 2 short straight sections (length dependent on your compressor) a 1/4" ball valve and a 1/4" by 1/4" standard elbow.

From the compressor:
Street elbow -> ****** -> ball valve -> ****** -> standard elbow

The last elbow keeps the water from shooting 2-3 feet out across your shop and instead directs it straight down. If you have a nearby floor drain I suppose you could put some plastic tubing over the last ****** and then direct the water whereever you wish.

Yeah, but it's funnier if the water shoots across the garage!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I used galvanize, no issues with it. If I have problems several years down the road I'll deal with it.

Charles

 

[nissan_crawler]

I vote brass. If you need another 1/2 turn, and it seems to get tight, just run a pipe die up it a little bit more and try again. It's harder to get another half turn on 1/8" pipe than 1" or something.

 

[PoorOwner]

I went to Lowes and all the galvinized stuff starts at 3/8"
I can't seem to find the 1/4" stuff?

If I get the 1/4" brass street elbow is very compact and I am hoping it's not too high, actually, also can't find a 1/4" ball valve..

 

[rsanter]

I have used both brass and galv depending on what I have had on hand

I like using the liquid teflon stuff for this as I can leave it not so tight or tight depending on the position I need it to be and it will still seal up

bob

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The Lowes here has an excellent selection of plumbing fittings and valves. The brass stuff will be on a board/drawers, bagged up, and not in open bins. Valves should be right with the rest of the bronze ball valves.

Charles

 

[PoorOwner]

OK I am done, it took 2 trips to the store but it was worth the time doing this

I used all brass, the longest ****** is 6" so I have to couple another 4".. then adapt to 3/8" and used 600 PSI WAG brass valve... (can't find 1/4" valve!!) the thing with brass is that it cost like $30..

I got lucky with the direction, the first try didn't point to the right direction, but I removed some of the crud stuck in the threads I am able to get it tight and point forward. (using a die would also work really well but I don't have a 1/4 pipe die)

 

[Lyaec350]

the thing with brass is that it cost like $30..

Where did you get your stuff? I got my 3 *******, coupler, 2 elbows and ball valve for <$15 at Menards...

Another way to line the fittings up is to add a bit more tape if they don't go where you want the first time... usually the added thickness is enough that it will keep the seal while torqued to a lower setting.

 

[PoorOwner]

Where did you get your stuff? I got my 3 *******, coupler, 2 elbows and ball valve for <$15 at Menards...

Another way to line the fittings up is to add a bit more tape if they don't go where you want the first time... usually the added thickness is enough that it will keep the seal while torqued to a lower setting.

I got mine at Lowes.. Valve is $6 and ****** is $8, then other little fittings and adapter $2-4

If you got yours few years ago I understand but the brass and copper fittings prices raised way high these 2 years. Also these are individually bagged nicely machined fittings made by "wells".. except the valve made in China but still look OK.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Ace hardware has a much better selection of small brass if you have one around. The box stores **** for it.