Compressor help

[clinebarger]

I've recently bought a Kellogg-American 80 gallon compressor for my new shop.
Bought it off my former employer, So I have a lot of history with this unit, I changed the oil & air filter, Drained the tank on a regular basis for 15 years.

Has approximately 9 months of use since I last saw it run, Story is.....The capacitor went bad & they crossed/jumped some wiring & burnt the motor up trying to make it run

Paid $100 for it because it was always a very good/quiet compressor.

My current employer let me store it behind the shop (Covered awning) & I need to get it fixed & moved before he starts complaining!!!

While I know how to maintain a compressor....I'm not a compressor expert by any means!

I'd like to replace the motor, Found a new Baldor motor on Amazon that I "Think" is a suitable replacement. I've had several Baldor bench grinders & polishers over the years & they served me well, Like most companies today......They could be **** for all I know?? Link......https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0G8234/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'd like to change the belts as the shroud is going to be a pain to get off once it's in place. I don't mind spending the money on good long lasting belts......Please advise.
Changed them probably 10 years ago with Gates if I remember correctly.

The Pressure Switch/Regulator got robbed off it sometime after I bought it, Please advise on a good quality replacement. It had a Square D originally.


Motor Data plate & the only picture I have of the compressor (In the background)

 

[HarrisFD]

Look on Ebay for a motor, also, Williams electric is the British brand for Baldor. I picked up a brand new 5HP Williams WECO-L1410T 5 HP, 1725 RPM on Fleabay for about $230 for my uncle's IR compressor last year. Make sure the shaft specs match your sheave (motor pulley). Pressure switches can be had there too. Square D and others. I used a Furnas 69JF9LY2C replacement. Thing you'll need to figure out is # of poles, on/off pressure, and whether it originally had an unloader ( cylinder pressure release).

Here's a couple:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/D5C2K18-5-...745493&hash=item592cf21e55:g:GIwAAOSwQTVV9uwX

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-HP-1-Pha...022702?hash=item3ad2c1d9ae:g:1pAAAOSwCb9c8w~3

 

[American Locomotive]

Same frame, power and RPM. That motor should be a direct drop in.

 

[454ragtop]

You sure that motor is junk? Does it smell burned? Have the same/similar KA compressor, has served me well for years, had to replace the reed valves once.

 

[clinebarger]

It's definitely burnt down......Smells rancid!!!

Thanks for the help guys.....Found this motor
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5HP-BALDOR-COMPRESSOR-DUTY-INDUSTRIAL-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-184T-1750-RPM-208-230V/173943503029?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[clinebarger]

The 2 Harris FD posted & the one I found.....Which one?

The 2 Baldors are made in the USA & the US Motor is made in Mexico. Probably irrelevant.

How do I know if this compressor needs an "Unloader"?

My understanding is.....All 184T frames have a 1 1/8" keyed shaft.

 

[American Locomotive]

All compressors have an unloader of some sort.

The Baldor motor Harris FD posted is more efficient than the Baldor motor you found. However, the Baldor motor you have has a higher service factor (1.25 vs 1.15), which means it can handle over-load situations a bit better. Given that the original motor was a 1.15 SF and lasted this long, the one Harris FD posted is probably a fine choice and will save you a couple bucks a year in electricity.

 

[HarrisFD]

The 2 Harris FD posted & the one I found.....Which one?



How do I know if this compressor needs an "Unloader"?

Some compressors have the unloader as part of the pressure switch. If yours had that type of setup, there would be a 1/4" copper or steel line near where the pressure switch was mounted that is disconnected. (in addition to pipe that switch mounts on) If not, your good just get a double pole pressure switch with the right pipe threads and pressure specs.

 

[clubairth]

Do you have the manual for that compressor?
It should show you everything.
.
.
.

 

[TRWham]

That compressor has a centrifugal unloader (the cone shape on the bearing carrier).

 

[clinebarger]

Do you have the manual for that compressor?
It should show you everything.

I don't......Wish I did.

That compressor has a centrifugal unloader (the cone shape on the bearing carrier).

Thank you sir!!

 

[rodder98]

You might want to ask a motor shop in your area what it would cost to have the motor rewound and with new bearings. If it was me, that's what I would do. A new 5 hp 3 phase motor can be expensive.

 

[clinebarger]

It's single phase, I got some local quotes....As much or more than buying a new motor.

 

[American Locomotive]

You might want to ask a motor shop in your area what it would cost to have the motor rewound and with new bearings. If it was me, that's what I would do. A new 5 hp 3 phase motor can be expensive.

It's really not economical to rewind anything under 15-20 HP, unless it's a very special unobtainable motor.

 

[seber]

In addition to the cost, rewinds are almost never as efficient as new. Hand winding just can't compete with a machine.

 

[clinebarger]

Thanks for all the help guys!!!

Test ran it saturday, Pumped-up to 150 psi in @6 minutes......Nice & quiet.

*Got 3 Bando Power King belts off E-bay for $18
*Bought the Baldor "Castair" motor.
*Square D 9013FHG44J59M1X Pressure Switch, Adjusted down to 150 psi.
*Square D 8911DPSO32V09 Magnetic Starter.
*Valvoline SAE30 non detergent oil.

Extended the oil drain out.....Changing the oil was always a messy ordeal!
Cleaned it up best I could without pressure washing it. Might swing by a coin-op on the way transporting it home.

The more I look at this compressor......I don't think it's a Kellogg American built compressor......Just built with a KA 332TXV Pump. The tank appears to be set-up for the Motor/Pump to be on the opposite side??
May have even had a different pump at one time.