Compressor Oil
- Thread starter Bull
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LoneGunman
Well-known member
Compressor oil, do NOT use oil meant for a car, the detergents will kill your pump. 20-30 weight non detergent would be okay but there is no reason, compressor oil is sold everywhere. Depot,Lowes, HF, hardware stores, ETC
plinker
Well-known member
Air compressor oil, best to use
NON DETERGENT 30wt oil, also works.
NON DETERGENT 30wt oil, also works.
Chris Adams
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Really? Never heard that.
My compressor a HC I bought new in 87 says use 30 weight detergent, which I have changed a few times over the years. Still works fine after 22 years of abuse.
My other compressors, big two stage units back when I worked in it also called for 30 weight detergent.
How or why will detergent kill the pump?
Just for anyone reading who isn't familiar with 'detergent' oil, don't think dish detergent or soap, think gooey oil. Detergent oil is not detergent in any sense as detergent oil merely traps impurities in the film of the oil.
Chris Adams
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And where do you find non-detergent oil anymore?
I'm in Southern California and no one has carried it in some years. Last can I saw was at a PepBoys but that was in the late 90's.
Exactly what harm does detergent oil do?
I'm in Southern California and no one has carried it in some years. Last can I saw was at a PepBoys but that was in the late 90's.
Exactly what harm does detergent oil do?
bgott
Well-known member
Detergents in oil are designed to keep particles in suspension so they can be removed by the filter. Non detergent oil lets the particles fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom of the crankcase, which is what you want when you have no oil filter, like on a compressor. If you keep the particles in suspension and don't filter them out, they act like sandpaper and accelerate wear.
Chris Adams
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OK, not according to the 'oil schools' I had to go through as a Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline dealer, but what the heck.
You have to wonder how ‘particles’ stay in the bottom when the dang thing shakes so much that it has actually worn the rubber feet off, wore off the handle screws. It’s a direct drive 2 horsepower and has shook more than I like from day one. Still shakes exactly the same as new and doesn't yet use oil.
Of course the motor only has to run maybe 10-15 times a week during the last 22 years, unless we are painting something. Then it might run 10 times a day.
Only used oil before the first change, after a year or three it was down a tiny bit.
Maybe it will start using oil soon, give me some excuse to get rid of it and get a nice two stage.
You have to wonder how ‘particles’ stay in the bottom when the dang thing shakes so much that it has actually worn the rubber feet off, wore off the handle screws. It’s a direct drive 2 horsepower and has shook more than I like from day one. Still shakes exactly the same as new and doesn't yet use oil.
Of course the motor only has to run maybe 10-15 times a week during the last 22 years, unless we are painting something. Then it might run 10 times a day.
Only used oil before the first change, after a year or three it was down a tiny bit.
Maybe it will start using oil soon, give me some excuse to get rid of it and get a nice two stage.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
i would recommend using air compressor oil. i decided that i needed to change the oil in my old compressor and thought what the hell, i'll use 30w ND oil. it lasted until the first cold day..........i'm thinking it was too thick and burnt the motor up.
bgott
Well-known member
The particles build up as a sludge, take apart a few pieces of old machinery and you'll see what I mean. I have an old compressor in my shed that had a half an inch of buildup on the bottom, the rest was clean. Since you have went through all those "oil schools", maybe you can enlighten us on what the difference is?
Rigmaster
Well-known member
Is it a new compressor? If so, it should have a recommended type/weight of oil to use.
We got a new Kobalt compressor for work about a year ago, and it specifies full synthetic motor oil FWIW.
We got a new Kobalt compressor for work about a year ago, and it specifies full synthetic motor oil FWIW.
sharkytm
ALLIANCE MEMBER
AutoZone still sells ND30.
Gary S
Well-known member
The owner's manual for your compressor will tell you what oil the manufacturer recommends. My compressors get broken in on whatever oil the manufacturer put in the crankcase. Then I change it over to Amsoil synthetic compressor oil for the life of the compressor. Amsoil makes synthetic compressor oils in whatever weight your compressor manufacturer recommends.
Living in a cold climate, I find that if I have mineral oils in my compressors, they want to trip the breaker when trying to start up when very cold. Once I switch to Amsoil synthetic compressor oils, that problem goes away.
Living in a cold climate, I find that if I have mineral oils in my compressors, they want to trip the breaker when trying to start up when very cold. Once I switch to Amsoil synthetic compressor oils, that problem goes away.
ron in sc
Well-known member
Champ Lub Reciprocating compressor oil, part number P09479A
NSXSOON
Well-known member
I've always used Mobil Rarus 427 Synthetic compressor oil. This is specified by many of the commercial compressor suppliers.
Just buy compressor oil. I'd rather focus on what oil to use in my car and let the compressor fix my car.
And where do you find non-detergent oil anymore?
I'm in Southern California and no one has carried it in some years. Last can I saw was at a PepBoys but that was in the late 90's.
Exactly what harm does detergent oil do?
davestonner
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- Dec 19, 2008
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- 17
My Kobalt 60 gal cast iron I got a few weeks ago specifies 10w30 fully synthetic motor oil as the ONLY (sticker said only use Mobil 1) oil to be used in the compressor. Wonder if they are engineering a failure on purpose so you have to buy a new compressor every few years?
***edit***
compressor is made by Sanborn.
***edit***
compressor is made by Sanborn.
Last edited:
bgott
Well-known member
Actually, when you get to the nut cuttin', any oil is better than no oil.
Amsoil PCK will run from way below 0*F to well over 100*F which pretty much sums up the ambient temps where I live. Compressor starts easy even when it is cold & testing with a clamp on amp meter was not that much more run current between 30's & 70*F.
fatfillup
Well-known member
Pressure washer pumps use nondetergent oil to prevent foaming in the crankcase. This may be the case for compressors also. Crankcases are very similar, no oil pump, no combustion,just crank, shaft bearings and rods being lubed by splash and fling method and partial submersion in oil bath.
As far as detergent oil not being like dish detergent Chris may be right but I do know that in spray wash cabinets (basically a dish washer for your greasey parts using hot soap and water) if it starts to foam too much you have an oil overload and the detergent in the oil is the cause. One solution is to add more non foaming parts washer soap and the problem goes away.
I get non detergent oil at NAPA, but it is hard to find.
Lastly, use compressor oil, and synthetic would be a good choice.
As far as detergent oil not being like dish detergent Chris may be right but I do know that in spray wash cabinets (basically a dish washer for your greasey parts using hot soap and water) if it starts to foam too much you have an oil overload and the detergent in the oil is the cause. One solution is to add more non foaming parts washer soap and the problem goes away.
I get non detergent oil at NAPA, but it is hard to find.
Lastly, use compressor oil, and synthetic would be a good choice.
3liter914-6
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Wal-Mart will often have ND-30wt, and Tractor Supply Co. always has it. Both are probably cheaper than NAPA if the're options for you.
I don't know what oil my compressor recommends, but I have a owners manual that covers the IR compressors and they recommend Compressor Oil or Mobil 1 10-30
I use Raurs 427 but use conventional. Syn was called of only in high temp apps.
mulepackin
Well-known member
trackwelder
Well-known member
Citgo T46 compressor oil. I bought a five gallon pail a few years ago for thirty bucks at a bulk oil distributor.
Art From De Leon
Well-known member
Thanks, you have answered a question I have been wondering about, as I purchased a couple of quarts for use in my compressor, then got to thinking it was for use in screw type compressors, instead of reciprocating ones.
I bought an old 1930s Westinghouse air brake compressor from an old guy parting out his shop. No manual, no literature available, probably no parts either. I figure I'll replace the pump/motor when they fail since I bought the whole thing for the price of a tank.
I was instructed to run 30 weight non-detergent oil, which I did. However, I needed to use it in the winter in PA. Very cold...
I drained the oil the night before, stored it in the house, and put it back in when I needed to use it. I probably should have done the same for the belts, but they haven't had any issues.
I was instructed to run 30 weight non-detergent oil, which I did. However, I needed to use it in the winter in PA. Very cold...
I drained the oil the night before, stored it in the house, and put it back in when I needed to use it. I probably should have done the same for the belts, but they haven't had any issues.
The great thing about synthetic compressor oil is that you wouldn't have to do this. My compressor sits where it gets down below 0*F & fires right up even before the salamander has time to warm the place up. Think it holds maybe 10.00 worth of synthetic oil compared to maybe 3-4.00 of cheap oil so the extra money is well worth the savings in hassle.
nate379
Banned
Don't have to, but it helps out the pump/motor.
My Dad doesn't and when it's -40 you have to keep an eye on the compressor when it first starts up otherwise it sometimes smokes the belts.
My Dad doesn't and when it's -40 you have to keep an eye on the compressor when it first starts up otherwise it sometimes smokes the belts.
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
Cripes, ours ran for 15 years on straight 30 in -35* weather, was NEVER shut off, ran non-stop for three days once, and at least one day on two other occasions. I think the oil was maybe changed twice in those 15 years.
It still worked like new when we sold the farm.
Heat bulbs and ****? Come on. If you really feel like it, throw some synthetic in it. If the breakers are tripping, time to deal with the wiring and breakers, IMHO.
It still worked like new when we sold the farm.
Heat bulbs and ****? Come on. If you really feel like it, throw some synthetic in it. If the breakers are tripping, time to deal with the wiring and breakers, IMHO.
Overall that is the cheapest, most hassle free way to do it. You don't have to buy & putz around with heat tape, light bulbs, etc to be able to start it in freezing weather. Average the 5.00-6.00 extra cost for the synthetic out over a 5 yr period between oil changes & it's probably the cheapest 'convenience' you will ever purchase.
johnny1290
Well-known member
I run synthteic, maybe Mobil 1.
It never crossed my mind to use a compressor oil. Damn. I was wondering if Mobil 1 was detergent or non detergent, here's the answer I found. Guess I'm going to have to go and do an oil change!
from the mobil website:
Is Mobil 1 a detergent oil? Honda says that non-detergent oil will shorten the life of their engine.
-- James Folger, Alpharetta, GA
Answer:
All modern high quality engine oils are detergent oils. A non-detergent oil basically has little or no additive. This would equate to an API SA or API SB oils which are ancient history. An oil with little or no additive will certainly shorten the life of the engine or most other equipment in which it is used.
It never crossed my mind to use a compressor oil. Damn. I was wondering if Mobil 1 was detergent or non detergent, here's the answer I found. Guess I'm going to have to go and do an oil change!
from the mobil website:
Is Mobil 1 a detergent oil? Honda says that non-detergent oil will shorten the life of their engine.
-- James Folger, Alpharetta, GA
Answer:
All modern high quality engine oils are detergent oils. A non-detergent oil basically has little or no additive. This would equate to an API SA or API SB oils which are ancient history. An oil with little or no additive will certainly shorten the life of the engine or most other equipment in which it is used.
I've been running Mobil 1 in the compressor for a few years now. I have a case that I bought way back when for my cars but have switched to Brad Penn Oil after the synth stuff cleaned all the varnish off my seals and I was getting too many leaks. I had no idea they made compressor oil. Might have to pull out the ol compressor handbook. Thanks for the heads up fellas!
Tool Pants
Well-known member
jwith68
Well-known member
Exactly the same as my ~2005 Husky Pro 60 gal cast iron with made in the USA pump. Owneres manual says only 10W-30 synthetic, and strongly recommends Mobil1.
buening
Well-known member
I found and use QuinCip oil at my local farm supply store that sells Quincy compressors
sberry
Banned
No soot in compressors from fuels, they dont need detergents. Nearly any oil works but lighter is usually better especially in colder weather. Synthetic comp oils are probably the best.