The brand of water/particle filter and regulator do not matter.
Just stay away from something that is all plastic, like the body.
Most will have aluminum bodies. The best are brass.
You have heard the initialism, F-R-L, which stands for filter,
regulator, lubricator. Well this is kind of wrong.
What you really want is to put the regulator first, and then
the filter. The reason is, the regulator works with a needle and
seat, just like a carburetor or toilet valve. This causes the pressure
drop because of the restriction and an increase in air speed.
Both these things cause any moisture in the compressed air
to drop out of suspension. Another way to say, the regulator is
a natural moisture removal device. Everyone wants dry air, so
why not take advantage of this, and put the water/particle filter
after the regulator? Physics guarantees you will trap water if
you have a water/particle filter after the regulator.
So most of the time, these units have the water trap and particulate
filter combined. I get that. Makes a lot of sense. But you really
should protect the regulator, with its needle and seat, from
particulates. If you have a dedicated particle filter, that would be
best to put before the regulator. (Like a MotoGrard TP filter or
DeVilbiss painters filter). But barring that, just use a combination
water/particle filter.
So I am suggesting the best combination for moisture removal is:
Filter-Regulator-Filter
You will always see water in both filter traps, so why leave this free
moisture removal arrangement ignored ?
Now side note for regulators;
there are piston and diaphragm regulators.
If you need accurate pressure control, like for paint guns,
you need a diaphragm regulator. For air tools, the piston regulators
work fine.
But don't fall into this brand is better or this one is better.
Go off the mechanical specifications of what you are buying.
Opinions are for brands of motor oils and beers.
-Doozer
