Have a 30x34 put up last week and had to get gravel to help level out before concrete is poured. My outside metal is ran all the way down on the outside of skirt board. Having 8x34 slab poured for a porch in front of the building. Since I'm getting 4inch concrete inside and metal is all the way down on the skirt outside I will have a four inch drop in concrete from inside to outside unless I want concrete to cover up my metal on the outside for the porch. My plan was to dig below skirt board 1.5 inches so concrete will out be up 2.5 on skirt board on inside. Have a transition drop at garage doors of a 1 inch and slope of 1.5 to meet concrete for porch. This way concrete won't be poured and touch metal siding. Does this sound right thing to do? Guess it would of been easier if my builder just but the metal siding higher on the skirt board. Any input would help and I will try to post some pics
Concrete below skirt board
- Thread starter free07110
- Start date
This is a pic of my metal on the outside. So if I poured 4" concrete as it is now then I would either have a four drop at garage door or concrete would cover metal
Trim on the front. Plan also to dig four inch deep for porch so concrete will set right under metal. Just wanting any input if it's ok to dig below skirt board to have concrete below
It. Contractor said he would just put concrete next to metal and cover it. Don't like that idea at all!
Trim on the front. Plan also to dig four inch deep for porch so concrete will set right under metal. Just wanting any input if it's ok to dig below skirt board to have concrete below
It. Contractor said he would just put concrete next to metal and cover it. Don't like that idea at all!
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BillK
Well-known member
Free,
Think like water. If you pour the outside concrete higher than the rest of the building, where is the water going to go when it rains etc ? ...... into the building
And I cannot imagine anyone telling you to pour the concrete up against the metal ????? I would want the outside concrete lower ..... start digging
Think like water. If you pour the outside concrete higher than the rest of the building, where is the water going to go when it rains etc ? ...... into the building
And I cannot imagine anyone telling you to pour the concrete up against the metal ????? I would want the outside concrete lower ..... start digging From what I can see in the picture, it almost look like the inside stone base is too high.
No way would I pour the concrete right against the metal or higher than the metal.
No way would I pour the concrete right against the metal or higher than the metal.
BillK
Well-known member
Free,
What does the inside look like ? Are you saying that you are going to pour the concrete floor right on top of the gravel that is in your picture now ? That whole deal does not make sense at all to me.
What does the inside look like ? Are you saying that you are going to pour the concrete floor right on top of the gravel that is in your picture now ? That whole deal does not make sense at all to me.
so the bottom of the skirt board is the top of the gravel?
whatever you do you want the slab on the inside of the building higher than what you have outside.
i would remove material on the outside of the building to create slight slope away from the building with the top of the concrete an inch or two below the tin.
whatever you do you want the slab on the inside of the building higher than what you have outside.
i would remove material on the outside of the building to create slight slope away from the building with the top of the concrete an inch or two below the tin.
Your exterior concrete should have a finished level that is lower than your interior concrete (simplest way I know how to phrase it). There should be enough material removed to the soil to account for a proper gravel base, compacted, anything else you plan on buring in the concrete (foam, heating, etc.), then the concrete. For me, this was 6" of rock and 6-12" of concrete (depending on location).
The excavation to accomplish this varied depending on where the pour was and what the usage of the area was to include. For example, concrete near garage doors at the threshold are often poured thicker because there can be a lot of pressure placed on this edge.
Here is a photo showing my porch pour and the step down from the interior, as seen by the threshold for the man-door. Also, exterior concrete should be below any siding. Expansion joints should be set between any pours that will "behave independently" such as a drive approach against the interior floor.
The excavation to accomplish this varied depending on where the pour was and what the usage of the area was to include. For example, concrete near garage doors at the threshold are often poured thicker because there can be a lot of pressure placed on this edge.
Here is a photo showing my porch pour and the step down from the interior, as seen by the threshold for the man-door. Also, exterior concrete should be below any siding. Expansion joints should be set between any pours that will "behave independently" such as a drive approach against the interior floor.
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BillK
Well-known member
Free,
Not sure exactly what type of building this is ? Pole barn ? Metal building with foundation and footers around the outside ?
I am not a builder, just a dumb machinist who has built his own 24x24 detached, but there is no way on earth I would listen to anyone who says it is ok for the metal to be below the grade of the concrete, outside or inside. If the metal is in contact with the concrete, it is going to corrode, period. I would really suggest getting a second opinion from another builder who can actually come out and look at the building in person.
Just my opinion,
Not sure exactly what type of building this is ? Pole barn ? Metal building with foundation and footers around the outside ?
I am not a builder, just a dumb machinist who has built his own 24x24 detached, but there is no way on earth I would listen to anyone who says it is ok for the metal to be below the grade of the concrete, outside or inside. If the metal is in contact with the concrete, it is going to corrode, period. I would really suggest getting a second opinion from another builder who can actually come out and look at the building in person.
Just my opinion,
It's really hard to tell twhat is going on in that one picture since pics are not 3 dimensional. The more I look at that picture, it appears that the gravel is dug out around the edge of the door. It would help to have apiture taken from the inside so we can see where the skirt board is, another looking at the side of the door way (so we can compare the depth of the stone) and a last one standing back so we can see the entire door way.
Sometimes, it difficult to imagine what the complete scenario is.
Without being involved in the conversation with the contractor, I'd guess that somebody either screwed up the metal siding (too low)or put too much (too high) stone fill on the inside. Any contractor telling you to pour concrete against the metal and cover it is a fool.
Sometimes, it difficult to imagine what the complete scenario is.
Without being involved in the conversation with the contractor, I'd guess that somebody either screwed up the metal siding (too low)or put too much (too high) stone fill on the inside. Any contractor telling you to pour concrete against the metal and cover it is a fool.
Yup, looks like way too much fill all the way around.
Who built the building? Brand?
Are the overhead doors installed?
Stone should be concrete thickness (4") below the bottom of the garage door when closed.
I just had a pioneer put up, they specified where the concrete finished height should be.You can see the doors in my thread at the bottom of my post.
Who built the building? Brand?
Are the overhead doors installed?
Stone should be concrete thickness (4") below the bottom of the garage door when closed.
I just had a pioneer put up, they specified where the concrete finished height should be.You can see the doors in my thread at the bottom of my post.
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Fyrme
Well-known member
I ended up with the same problem. I'm going to add a form board below the skirt board and pour my slab 2" up from the bottom of the skirt board on the inside and my siding is 1" above the bottom of the skirt. This will allow the apron outside to be only 1" below the slab and will slope away from the building. Make since?
Fyrme
Well-known member
As I picture yours, you will need to remove some base, or trim up the bottom of your metal.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Your builder screwed up. You should have had your floor poured inside, the apron poured outside, then the metal brought down to the concrete.
It looks like you have a 6" skirt board. Your concrete will come up 4" on the board. The outside should come up the same, but have a slight slope. Then your siding would come down to the concrete which would cover the skirt board.
You DO NOT want to bury any metal into the concrete. I'd get some pics of how it should be done, get your contractor back, and make him eat the cost for fixing things right.
It looks like you have a 6" skirt board. Your concrete will come up 4" on the board. The outside should come up the same, but have a slight slope. Then your siding would come down to the concrete which would cover the skirt board.
You DO NOT want to bury any metal into the concrete. I'd get some pics of how it should be done, get your contractor back, and make him eat the cost for fixing things right.
No I'm not at finish grade yet on the inside. Had to move lots of gravel inside because I was 8 inched low on the back side of the pole barn. Brought it up to the bottom of skirt board and then left a 6" gap and 8" deep for a thicken edge of concrete. Stopped half way thru and realized the concrete issue on the front. Now I need to dig down below skirt board to not have a issue with huge drop in concrete at the front. Emailed pic to company and concrete guy. Waiting on call back.
Fyrme
Well-known member
I can but it will be at least a week before I can if you can wait that long. Also it will have to be a virtual pic because I don't have the pad built yet. I can sketch in my finished grade lines on the pic though. Fortunately I caught my mistake before I built the pad.
coljar
Well-known member
I don't have pics right now because I'm at work, but my concrete guy had to cut the inside grade down a few inches because the builder set the building slightly lower than I wanted. This wasn't a big deal , because it still made the outside apron in front of the doors and porch slope away from the building.
Mines not a pole bldg but the threshold is an 1"-1.5" drop. There two pics in that link that might help.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1115195&postcount=40
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1115195&postcount=40
Concrete guy talked to me today. planning on four inch inside shop starting at bottom of the skirt board. one inch thershold and then slop and roll the driveway part down. so starting three feet out and going into the shop the concrete at the garage doors will start to raise slowly and meet concrete in the shop.It will have a rolled edge on the sides. I think this is going to work and look alot cleaner. I will post pics when the concrete is poured.
