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Concrete Stain?

nvrlift

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Oct 2, 2005
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20
Location
Seattle
I was at Home Depot the other day and saw this Behr prodcut...Looks like you still have to etch and even prime, but is this something anyone has looked at or thought about?

Not sure if I would like it, but just posting to see what others think/know.
 
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dboat

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Nov 20, 2005
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Dallas, Tx
is the success of a product like this higher than epoxy coating? since its just a stain?
 

ZRWON

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Feb 5, 2005
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115
Location
Whidbey Island, WA
nvrlift said:
I was at Home Depot the other day and saw this Behr prodcut...Looks like you still have to etch and even prime, but is this something anyone has looked at or thought about? Not sure if I would like it, but just posting to see what others think/know.
I read all about it and talked to the rep at Home Depot today. As a result I think if has fewer drawbacks than Epoxy paints for garage floors, esp if the floor has never been painted before.
PLEASE, ANY OF YOU EVER USED OR SEEN ANY CEMENT THAT WAS COVERED WITH THIS STAIN??
Sure would appreciate some feedback from someone with 1st hand experience. THANKS!
 

EvilEye

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Dec 12, 2005
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Location
Piketown,PA
I work for a Furniture Company. We ( I ) removed about 3000 sq ft of carpet and interior partiitions to create a Gallery for one of our furniture brands. We Acid Stained the Floor. It Looks very nice. Crate & Barrel Look. But!!! It is not designed to be used as a garage Floor.
It is not oil proof or anything like that. We used a Sealer on the Stain then Waxed the surface after the Sealer. My Garage has Ucoat IT . I love the finish and the easy Clean up.

Just My 2 Cents.
 

68FB400

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Jan 11, 2006
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74
Location
******* GA
First time on this site and looks like a wealth of great information.

I have stain on my garages and will post my experience:

The builder finished the house with a concrete stain. Unkown brand, but it looked good and held up fairly well for a while. It does have tire patch pretty bad though.
After regular household use, the high traffic areas are showing signs of wear after 6 years.

I built a detached garage 3 years ago and used Concrete stain there as well (H&C brand). It has not held up that great as I abused it with the restoration of my car. Grease/oil wipes off ok, but leaves some residue. The nice thing is, for touch ups it covers and blends in well.

I would like to re-do both gargages, but not sure what kind of prep work will be needed to get the prior stain off before an expoxy is put down. I may just go over it again with stain.
 

tubeman

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Nov 22, 2005
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144
Location
Houston
I think there arre two kinds of "stain". One is acid etched and the other is a dye that is in the sealer. The acid etch, which I have done, then requires a sealer. The acid etch goes deep into the concrete and cannot be chipped off, etc. You then reseal periodically. Mine turned out very well but I have not parked on it or put grease on it. I would imagine that the sealer is less impervious than epoxy.
 

ZRWON

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Feb 5, 2005
Messages
115
Location
Whidbey Island, WA
Big THANKS! I really appreciate the informative posts you all have made. Think I'll give the Home Depot concrete stain a try if it ever stops raining here in the Pacific NW. We've had 26 continuous days of rain. The record is 33 days in 1953. When we get nearer 40 days and nights I'm building an arc and only filling it with my FAVORITE critters! :lol2:
 

Cutch

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Jan 15, 2006
Messages
109
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
When we did our garage we went with the stain. Etched first and then put the stain on...did it in a desert sand...looks good. When we talked to the paint store they had 2 brands....one they had mixed results (may have been the prep work) and the other good results.

The theory behind the stain is that it was a silicone base and would repel any spillage (which it does...don't know if I would leave oils sitting on it for a period of time though)...the stain bleeds into the concrete and therefore if it chips the concrete may still be coloured.

We had looked at going with coloured concrete....but that would have been too expensive.

Also looked at doing the 2 part epoxy but it was more expensive than the stain.

If I was to do it over again I think I might go with the epoxy...like I said maybe.

The stain has held up well enough but will need to be done again...but like someone said it should just need to be blended in with the existing.

My understanding that is if you go with the stain you won't be able to remove it if you decide epoxy.
 

sboxs

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Nov 15, 2005
Messages
169
Location
nj
i did coloured cement in red i will let you know on sunday after its sealed on weather i like it or not it added about $1,500 to the cost
 

mdshore348

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Oct 29, 2005
Messages
71
Location
maryland
im about to do the acid etch stain , and from what ive read so far , is when you add the sealer and polish it, it hardens the surface to make it even stronger than typical concrete. the product actually soaks in to the concrete, it also claims it lets the concrete breath , so no bubbling like you get with epoxy ....
search google " concrete stain polishing "
 

ZRWON

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Feb 5, 2005
Messages
115
Location
Whidbey Island, WA
Tman said:
I am getting ready to stain my shop/house. I will let you guys know how it works. I will also post pictures.
Any progress Tman??? Really looking forward to seeing those pictures and hearing your comments!!! Bill
 
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Tman

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Jan 29, 2006
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543
Location
Black Hills of South Dakota
ZR, we are getting closer to the stain. Wife and I discussed it this last weekend. I think we know our layout. The living space is going to get a darker border. We are going the natural route with iron sulfate and then a two separate sealers, paste wax on part and poly on the rest.

This months issue of FineHomebuilding has a great article on the subject.
 

Royalshifter

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Apr 4, 2006
Messages
2
If you put a sealer down on a cement floor can you still stain or paint the floor with no problems?
 

ZRWON

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Feb 5, 2005
Messages
115
Location
Whidbey Island, WA
Tman said:
ZR, we are getting closer to the stain. Wife and I discussed it this last weekend. I think we know our layout. The living space is going to get a darker border. We are going the natural route with iron sulfate and then a two separate sealers, paste wax on part and poly on the rest.

This months issue of FineHomebuilding has a great article on the subject.
THANKS for the update. Look forward to seeing your pics...sounds like it'll be great
 

Tomcat

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Joined
Jun 26, 2006
Messages
13
Epoxy car pads, stain walking areas

ZRWON said:
I read all about it and talked to the rep at Home Depot today. As a result I think if has fewer drawbacks than Epoxy paints for garage floors, esp if the floor has never been painted before.
PLEASE, ANY OF YOU EVER USED OR SEEN ANY CEMENT THAT WAS COVERED WITH THIS STAIN??
Sure would appreciate some feedback from someone with 1st hand experience. THANKS!
Email me if you want details...
[email protected]
 

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Cole

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Aug 21, 2006
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22
Location
Colorado
Newbie here.


I surfed over here from another forum and found this post.


Thought I would put in a picture and info.


I stained my garage a couple of months ago with the Behr semi-transparent stain. Then I sealed it with clear epoxy garage floor coating. I went back and sealed it because our car tires were extracting the stain from the floor. So far the clear epoxy seems to be holding up well to the abuse I put it through.

I am in Colorado which is a very dry climate just for reference.


Not finished with the garage but here is a bad camera phone picture.

61f2b4f7348f.jpg


This was before the epoxy coating.

b1de2740af63.jpg
 

cbar111

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Mar 4, 2008
Messages
3
I used H&C stain from Sherwin Williams in my garage and covered it with acrylic sealer with the anti-slip additive. If you use a sealer, I highly recommend the anti-slip additive, the floor would be dangerously "slippery when wet" without it. Ours has been down @3 months - so far we are very pleased with the look, and it has held up great.
 

thegarageguy

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Oct 24, 2007
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1,489
Location
NJ
a dye or a stain is just that. a translucent color additive. It will not protect, seal or stregnthen your concrete. Its just a color additive. You will still need to seal it to protect it from the daily abuses of vehicle traffic. Using a polyaspartic would help greatly. Just make sure that if using acid stain that it is completely neutralized and completely dry before applicating any polyureas.

sboxes, $1500 just to add color packs into your concrete sounds excessive.
 

sirhk100

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
5
I know this is a garage forum but I'm hoping this post will be relevant...

I've got 3 gallons of the quikrete acid etching stain. The expensive stuff. My plans are to do my house with it and then epoxy over it.

So I've ripped up 100% of the carpet and padding in a house I'm remodeling. I've got all the tack strips yanked out also. The finish on the concrete is pretty good over all but there's a general overspray of latex paint on it all and there's a nice halo of carpet glue around every room. I'm using a razor edge tile scraper to get most of the glue up but it's leaving a little residue still visable on the concrete. Obviously for the stain I want a spotless perfectly clean pad to start with. My plan this weekend is to rent a floor buffer and use pads on it. My question is with this part... Any suggestion on which pads to use? There's everything from buffing to stripping pads to even an abbrassive pad. I don't really want to mark the floor, I just want to remove the paint and glue from it. Any suggestions on chemicals that won't stain, seal or etch the concrete? It specifically says not to use any types of acid to clean the concrete as this will affect the performance of the stain.

Advice???

Thanks
Khris
 

Drev

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Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Messages
18
Location
Ontario, Canada
Anyone else with stained concrete in the garage?

I actually just stained my garage floor with Kemiko black stain and ended up with a nice black/brown "tortoise shell" kind of look. I'm topping it off with an acrylic polyurethane product from Rainguard call Clearseal. I was told that it's specifically for garages and heavy traffic areas so I'm hoping that it will hold up. A word of caution though regarding overspray, spatter, etc that might be on the floor prior to putting the stain down...I had some areas on the floor where the contractors spilled things or dropped some construction adhesives. I was able to scrape, sand, or wash it all off and I thought I was free and clear, but those spots definitely appeared in the final finish. Looking back I should have spent more time or done something differently to fully remove any residue left over. Acid staining will definitely be a consideration when it comes time to finish the basement!
 

sirhk100

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Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
5
so after scraping my entire living room and master bedroom and feeling that a buffer with a stripping pad will probably finish off those rooms I get to my 1st of 2 common bedrooms. I spent almost 3 minutes working in about 2sq' of floor and the entire floor looks this bad. My issue is carpet glue!!!! It's kicking my ***!!! So bad of a kicking that I went and priced wood laminant last night which ***** cause it's about $1600 more expensive and I don't like the look personally as much as a nice acid etch stained concrete!!!!

So, any advice on cutting thru old carpet glue? I used "krud kutter" "pain stripper" a hand grinder with a flapper disc on and it and also tried a wire wheel on it. Used a tile knife with a 4" razor blade which is what I've had the most success with in the other rooms and feel is getting the job done although it *****!!! LOL I'm not sure if it's worth my time to rent a floor buffer and stripping pad tomorrow to possibly not have this work at all tomorrow...

Any advice?
 

Wiggum

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Oct 28, 2009
Messages
254
so after scraping my entire living room and master bedroom and feeling that a buffer with a stripping pad will probably finish off those rooms I get to my 1st of 2 common bedrooms. I spent almost 3 minutes working in about 2sq' of floor and the entire floor looks this bad. My issue is carpet glue!!!! It's kicking my ***!!! So bad of a kicking that I went and priced wood laminant last night which ***** cause it's about $1600 more expensive and I don't like the look personally as much as a nice acid etch stained concrete!!!!

So, any advice on cutting thru old carpet glue? I used "krud kutter" "pain stripper" a hand grinder with a flapper disc on and it and also tried a wire wheel on it. Used a tile knife with a 4" razor blade which is what I've had the most success with in the other rooms and feel is getting the job done although it *****!!! LOL I'm not sure if it's worth my time to rent a floor buffer and stripping pad tomorrow to possibly not have this work at all tomorrow...

Any advice?

Do you have proper ventilation? If so, some toxic chemicals are in order. An aerospace grade paint and grime stripper will eat just about anything.
 

hguerrero

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Joined
Feb 21, 2005
Messages
1,344
Location
fort worth, texas
where did you buy the kemiko and the clearseal? costs?

thanks
I actually just stained my garage floor with Kemiko black stain and ended up with a nice black/brown "tortoise shell" kind of look. I'm topping it off with an acrylic polyurethane product from Rainguard call Clearseal. I was told that it's specifically for garages and heavy traffic areas so I'm hoping that it will hold up. A word of caution though regarding overspray, spatter, etc that might be on the floor prior to putting the stain down...I had some areas on the floor where the contractors spilled things or dropped some construction adhesives. I was able to scrape, sand, or wash it all off and I thought I was free and clear, but those spots definitely appeared in the final finish. Looking back I should have spent more time or done something differently to fully remove any residue left over. Acid staining will definitely be a consideration when it comes time to finish the basement!
 

Drev

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Messages
18
Location
Ontario, Canada
Keep in mind that I am in Ontario, Canada, but I went on the Kemiko site and found the closest dealer to me, which was in the Hamilton/Ancaster area. Two jugs of stain and a jug of Neutraclean cost me $170 CDN with me picking it up. It's considered a hazmat product so shipping it would have doubled the cost! The Rainguard Clearseal was purchased at my local ICI Paints store and I was able to catch a sale getting two jugs for $65 each. I think it's regularly pushing $90/jug. Overall I really like the final result, but it's a bit tedious getting there. The residue can be a pain to remove, but once you're clearing the floor it's smooth sailing!
 

BECC

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Aug 31, 2005
Messages
60
Location
St Augustine Florida
Here is pics of my garage floor, did it over 14 months ago, the kick stand on my big bike doesn't bother it. I now use half the garage as my home office and the only problem is the wheels on my office chair leaving marks but a mop fixes that.

I did the H&C stain with Xylene based clear coat, it took a while for that to off-gas about a week. Not real happy with the shine but it wears great -

Word of caution - DO NOT use one of the anti-slip thingies that goes under a rug (real similar to tool box drawer liner) it eats into the coating - a scraper and lacquer thinner gets it off but pulls up some of the color too. Now I have a 6x4 area to work on - argh!!!!
 

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sirhk100

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Oct 26, 2009
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So I did my living room and 3 bedrooms using the quikrete acid etching stain and then the quikrete premium clear epoxy coating. I'm satisfied with the finished product. As expected every little flaw does show but I honestly think it kind of adds character. So far I've only had one person that was on the fence about it.

Question though... Maintenance... I can't find any info on how to maintain it! I'm thinking I should wax it on a annual schedule at the very least if not more. Anyone have any recomendations?

I used a "tan" color in the rooms and a "coffee" color in the living room. I have about 1/2 a gallon of each left so down the line I may mix it up and when I'm bored some weekend empty out my garage and go to town on that floor!!! I think that would be bitchin but I've got other fires to put out on the chores and wish list first still....



Pictures for anyone interested...

Pulled up the carpet and most of the house looked like this...

DSC01554.jpg



After some serious elbow grease with a razor blade scraper and then a flooring buffer with various chemicals I got it to this...

DSC01557.jpg


And then after the acid etch stain and the epoxy here's some random pics of the finished floor.

DSC01812.jpg


DSC01820.jpg


DSC01823.jpg


the fireplace is in the process of being covered in marble.

DSC01808.jpg
 

tewsonfam

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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2
Hey! I am starting on my concrete etching/staining in the garage first thing in the morning. I was wondering which kind od application you used. Did you apply the acid stain with a sprayer or did you use a mop or sweep broom. I am aware that the amount of time you let it sit, the amount of water and how it was applied makes a diference. I like how your living area turned out. THink you used the coffee on that area. That is what I am using. So, I wanted to get more info on this. Thanks!
kt
 

vaison

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Joined
Oct 7, 2010
Messages
1
I read all about it and talked to the rep at Home Depot today. As a result I think if has fewer drawbacks than Epoxy paints for garage floors, esp if the floor has never been painted before.
PLEASE, ANY OF YOU EVER USED OR SEEN ANY CEMENT THAT WAS COVERED WITH THIS STAIN??
Sure would appreciate some feedback from someone with 1st hand experience. THANKS!

This week I have used Behr semi transparent concrete stain on an outdoor covered back patio. The concrete had cured for over 2 months and I cleaned and etched it with a recommended professional product; I then rinsed very thouroughly and let it fully dry. The stain I used was "STC-23 Moroccan Dunes".

1) The color didn't at all come out as presented in the Behr brochure; it looks a sort of maroon (reminds you of brownish earth or, worse, like smeared dog poop).

2) Although I used the required sponge roller (as chosen by the salesperson) it was very difficult to spread that stain evenly. I had to buy a 2nd gallon of the product for a second coat and in place I'll still need a 3rd coat.

3) It looks like paint, not at all like stain.

This was an extremely frustrating experience. It cost me far more than expected and I am completely dissatisfied with the results. The salesperson recomforting advice was that it would wear out in 3 to 4 years.

I advise to stay well away from this product.
 

crowldawg

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Jul 5, 2007
Messages
92
Location
orient ny
I will not use anything by Behr .Had the same experience with a water base "natural" deck stain. The deck was "poop" colored. Of course those weren't the words I used to describe it
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,993
Location
deerfield, IL
Unlike floor coatings, stains do not generally give you consistent results due to the absorption properties of concrete. Therefore, it is easier to hide a repair.

If you want to "play" with some stain without committing. We have a sample kit available that contains all of our colors. It's a cheap way to see if it's for you.
You can use some paver stones as your experimental surface.
 
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