jbmatth
Well-known member
Looking forward to how this goes, seems like a fun little project.
JB
JB
Cooler Kart Build
- Thread starter aka Larry
- Start date
As seen in this thread, I just ordered a custom laser-cut badge for the project.
I designed a 50's style automotive badge. Below is what I came up with. Note, the tabs at the bottom are for mounting and will be bent 90 degrees before installation. I added a pair of small notches to make sure I bend the tabs at the correct spot.
Price wasn't too bad I guess for a one-off part. It's approx. 18" long made from .125" brushed stainless. $29.00 which includes free shipping.
I designed a 50's style automotive badge. Below is what I came up with. Note, the tabs at the bottom are for mounting and will be bent 90 degrees before installation. I added a pair of small notches to make sure I bend the tabs at the correct spot.
Price wasn't too bad I guess for a one-off part. It's approx. 18" long made from .125" brushed stainless. $29.00 which includes free shipping.
BLUE72CAMARO
Well-known member
Thats really not bad at all for a one of part that size shipped. Mind sharing where you ordered from?
pogrelis97
Well-known member
cool build!!
bradpac
Well-known member
$29? damn, all the hot rods are getting custom badges now. Can't wait to see it installed.
Bighead38
Well-known member
Awesome project! For some reason I keep thinking of "HEY HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS"
But the kart holds its own beer.
Bighead38
Well-known member
Yeah that badge is cool.
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You better find a way to lock it down on the "cart" as I see it sprouting "legs".....
Muckin_Slusher
Well-known member
I didn't read the whole thread, but it looks cool.
Just a FYI, that coleman stainless cooler isn't worth the powder to blow it to hell. I bought a red steel cooler from them years ago, and it held up to some years of ice fishing. When it was getting worn out I bought two of those stainless ones on sale.
WORST decision of my life.
The stainless that thing is built of is popcan thin. If you gently open the lid and allow it to rest in the open position, it will peep itself open at the hinges.
I can't imagine it lasting more than a few rides if you're sitting on it driving a gokart.
Carry on!
Just a FYI, that coleman stainless cooler isn't worth the powder to blow it to hell. I bought a red steel cooler from them years ago, and it held up to some years of ice fishing. When it was getting worn out I bought two of those stainless ones on sale.
WORST decision of my life.
The stainless that thing is built of is popcan thin. If you gently open the lid and allow it to rest in the open position, it will peep itself open at the hinges.
I can't imagine it lasting more than a few rides if you're sitting on it driving a gokart.
Carry on!
I already had a nice Yeti 65, but it was way too big, and it's heavy. I really liked the looked of the stainless one, and it was the right size, so I went with it. The cooler will be more for looks than anything, but I do plan to ride on it. I plan to add a cushion to the lid for a little comfort.
I guess we'll see how it holds up.
Worst case, I have to modify the frame and get a different cooler.Life has kind of been in the way with this project, but I finally got a little done this week.
I decided I wanted a way to hang parts for painting. Initially I wanted a rolling-type rack, but decided I've got more than enough stuff that's on the floor in the way already. I settled on a shower rod type approach that would be a place to hang parts when needed, but be out of the way the rest of the time.
I used a 10' section of 1-1/2" EMT, some chain, and eye bolts for the construction. I bolted the eye bolts to the overhead trusses of my shop and to the EMT, suspending the EMT with chain. The rod is about 7 feet high, so I don't have to worry about hitting my head on it when not in use.
I used the left over chain along with some S-hooks to suspend the kart's frame from the new overhead support rod, and it was finally ready for paint. It's just primed for now as I ran out of time, but I'll keep moving and hopefully get it all assembled soon.
Pics:
I decided I wanted a way to hang parts for painting. Initially I wanted a rolling-type rack, but decided I've got more than enough stuff that's on the floor in the way already. I settled on a shower rod type approach that would be a place to hang parts when needed, but be out of the way the rest of the time.
I used a 10' section of 1-1/2" EMT, some chain, and eye bolts for the construction. I bolted the eye bolts to the overhead trusses of my shop and to the EMT, suspending the EMT with chain. The rod is about 7 feet high, so I don't have to worry about hitting my head on it when not in use.
I used the left over chain along with some S-hooks to suspend the kart's frame from the new overhead support rod, and it was finally ready for paint. It's just primed for now as I ran out of time, but I'll keep moving and hopefully get it all assembled soon.
Pics:
Attachments
BuffettFan
Well-known member
Nice setup and NICE SHOP!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job.
I hung a LOT of parts over the years to paint and did like you, utilizing existing bolt holes and/or tabs to avoid wire marks. Sure makes for a great final product.
Nice looking shop as well Vincent.
I hung a LOT of parts over the years to paint and did like you, utilizing existing bolt holes and/or tabs to avoid wire marks. Sure makes for a great final product.
Nice looking shop as well Vincent.
Thanks for the nice words guys.
I actually thought ahead for once and welded four tie down anchors to the underside of the kart. These will be used to secure the kart to my trailer for transport w/o damaging the paint. These same anchors also came in handy to suspend it during painting
I actually thought ahead for once and welded four tie down anchors to the underside of the kart. These will be used to secure the kart to my trailer for transport w/o damaging the paint. These same anchors also came in handy to suspend it during painting
casmurbax
Well-known member
Nice shop and can't wait to see the finished product.
With the pollen in full force here, and waiting for my paint to arrive from UPS, I didn't have much to work on this weekend.
I do plan to color match the wheels to the frame, so I began the unenviable task of removing the wheels from the tires. If you remember, I had one hell of a time getting the tires on the wheels, so I was not looking forward to the reverse. I decided it would be worth it, so I pressed on...literally.
I stated by removing the schrader valve, then attempted to use a pair of C-clamps and some scrap wood to break the bead. I tell you, for a tire that doesn't use the bead for the seal, these SOBs are on there TIGHT!
Since the clamp method clearly failed, I decided the tires would need to be pressed off the wheels, kind of like they were pressed on, but in a different way. The wooden jig I used for installation, pressed the wheel in the tire, but could not be used to press the wheel back out. Instead, a needed a jig to press tire off the wheel.
Using my plasma cutter, I cut a donut out of some old 1/8" plate I had laying around. I used some scrap 1" square tube, and some 1-1/2" angle to build this:
Once the jig was in place, it worked like a champ to get the wheels free as seen here:
Next I need to scuff the wheels, and get them ready for paint. Hopefully I'll be able to press them back in the tires w/o damaging the new paint.
Stay tuned...
I do plan to color match the wheels to the frame, so I began the unenviable task of removing the wheels from the tires. If you remember, I had one hell of a time getting the tires on the wheels, so I was not looking forward to the reverse. I decided it would be worth it, so I pressed on...literally.
I stated by removing the schrader valve, then attempted to use a pair of C-clamps and some scrap wood to break the bead. I tell you, for a tire that doesn't use the bead for the seal, these SOBs are on there TIGHT!
Since the clamp method clearly failed, I decided the tires would need to be pressed off the wheels, kind of like they were pressed on, but in a different way. The wooden jig I used for installation, pressed the wheel in the tire, but could not be used to press the wheel back out. Instead, a needed a jig to press tire off the wheel.
Using my plasma cutter, I cut a donut out of some old 1/8" plate I had laying around. I used some scrap 1" square tube, and some 1-1/2" angle to build this:
Once the jig was in place, it worked like a champ to get the wheels free as seen here:
Next I need to scuff the wheels, and get them ready for paint. Hopefully I'll be able to press them back in the tires w/o damaging the new paint.
Stay tuned...
Attachments
Update.
This past Friday after work, the weather final cooperated enough for me to get started on the color coat. The color is called "Still Night Pearl", which is a 2019 Honda color code. Here's where it stands now:
Hopefully with the pollen going away, and warmer temps this weekend, I will get the color coat finished and clear coat done.
This past Friday after work, the weather final cooperated enough for me to get started on the color coat. The color is called "Still Night Pearl", which is a 2019 Honda color code. Here's where it stands now:
Hopefully with the pollen going away, and warmer temps this weekend, I will get the color coat finished and clear coat done.
Attachments
casmurbax
Well-known member
Its looking great!
I will be able to pick it up in mid June if that works for you.
I will be able to pick it up in mid June if that works for you.
Unruh
Well-known member
Such a fun build! Looks fantastic and I’m excited to see the end product.
BigMike782
Well-known member
Cool build!
A little Maize(yellow) and it would really look sharp!
A little Maize(yellow) and it would really look sharp!
Update.
I was able to get the clear coat done this weekend. I also had to paint the handle bars, tie-rods, and hubs black, so I decided to get that done and let it all fully cure before starting assembly.
Here's a shot of one of the wheel halves with the clear coat done:
I was able to get the clear coat done this weekend. I also had to paint the handle bars, tie-rods, and hubs black, so I decided to get that done and let it all fully cure before starting assembly.
Here's a shot of one of the wheel halves with the clear coat done:
Attachments
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That blue is going to look awesome in the sun Vincent. It really pops on those wheels just under normal lighting.
Admit it, you just don't read my posts.
Sorry did you say something??.
Bud that blue is very cool, I can't wait to see the finished product.
That blue is going to look awesome in the sun Vincent. It really pops on those wheels just under normal lighting.
Bud that blue is very cool, I can't wait to see the finished product.
Thanks guys!
This thing seems to be taking forever, but it will get done...eventually.
Update.
With the beautiful weather both days this weekend, I got off my *** and put in some quality hours on this thing.
I started out by reassembling the wheels. Yeah, it was kind of a PITA, but unlike the first time, I knew what to do, and had the jigs ready to go for the press. Since I didn't have the learning curve, and didn't have to stop, it took about 1/4th the time. I decided to paint the hubs gloss black for two reasons. First, for some contrast. Second because I didn't have any more of the blue paint.
Assembled wheel and hub assembly:
After the wheels were done and installed, I was ready to move on to the wiring. I started by mounting the battery holder. This is a 3D-printed piece designed to hold the 20V Dewalt batteries. It's attached with stainless-steel screws with rubber pads underneath to mitigate vibration. The wires pass through rubber grommets of course.
Underneath is the fuse holder and ground connections to the frame:
Dewalt 20V battery in place:
After routing all the wires for the lighting, I made the connections via a terminal block up front. I used the fabric wire loom to clean every thing up.
I wanted to be able to remove the cooler if needed for draining, cleaning, or whatever, so I used a pair of toggle clamps to secure the cooler to the frame. The stainless skin on the cooler is pretty thin (think beer can) so I used rivets to attach a 16GA stainless-steel plate to distribute the forces over a wider area.
Secured to the frame:
I actually got further along, enough to make it mobile, but a snafu caused me to have to re-order a part that won't be here until Thursday. Once the part arrives, I should be able to finally ride this thing!
Stay tuned...
With the beautiful weather both days this weekend, I got off my *** and put in some quality hours on this thing.
I started out by reassembling the wheels. Yeah, it was kind of a PITA, but unlike the first time, I knew what to do, and had the jigs ready to go for the press. Since I didn't have the learning curve, and didn't have to stop, it took about 1/4th the time. I decided to paint the hubs gloss black for two reasons. First, for some contrast. Second because I didn't have any more of the blue paint.
Assembled wheel and hub assembly:
After the wheels were done and installed, I was ready to move on to the wiring. I started by mounting the battery holder. This is a 3D-printed piece designed to hold the 20V Dewalt batteries. It's attached with stainless-steel screws with rubber pads underneath to mitigate vibration. The wires pass through rubber grommets of course.
Underneath is the fuse holder and ground connections to the frame:
Dewalt 20V battery in place:
After routing all the wires for the lighting, I made the connections via a terminal block up front. I used the fabric wire loom to clean every thing up.
I wanted to be able to remove the cooler if needed for draining, cleaning, or whatever, so I used a pair of toggle clamps to secure the cooler to the frame. The stainless skin on the cooler is pretty thin (think beer can) so I used rivets to attach a 16GA stainless-steel plate to distribute the forces over a wider area.
Secured to the frame:
I actually got further along, enough to make it mobile, but a snafu caused me to have to re-order a part that won't be here until Thursday. Once the part arrives, I should be able to finally ride this thing!
Stay tuned...
Attachments
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stinkity stoink
Well-known member
That thing is slick ! Great attention to detail
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks great Vincent.
Details such as the latch mechanism and the wiring layout are awesome.
Details such as the latch mechanism and the wiring layout are awesome.
casmurbax
Well-known member
That is looking great, nice job.
Finally...it's done! Well almost, since I do plan to add a padded seat to the lid of the cooler, but otherwise it's 100% functional.
Here are a couple of short videos of me riding it yesterday. A day version and night version so I could test the lighting.
Cooler Kart - 1st Ride / Day Video
Cooler Kart - 1st Ride / Night Video
It's plenty quick for what it is, a governed 6.5HP engine with a 215 lb. rider. Via a phone's GPS, the max speed was 21 MPH, which is fast enough riding on a top heavy kart with a short and narrow wheel base. Turn too quick and you'll end up on your @ss for sure. I didn't test that, but I can and did lift the rear wheel in the turns.
The parking lights were mostly for looks/bling, and they are bright! The headlight however was designed to be functional, and works very well. The headlights and parking lights on separate switches so they can be used as needed.
Here are the finished pics:
Here are a couple of short videos of me riding it yesterday. A day version and night version so I could test the lighting.
Cooler Kart - 1st Ride / Day Video
Cooler Kart - 1st Ride / Night Video
It's plenty quick for what it is, a governed 6.5HP engine with a 215 lb. rider. Via a phone's GPS, the max speed was 21 MPH, which is fast enough riding on a top heavy kart with a short and narrow wheel base. Turn too quick and you'll end up on your @ss for sure. I didn't test that, but I can and did lift the rear wheel in the turns.
The parking lights were mostly for looks/bling, and they are bright! The headlight however was designed to be functional, and works very well. The headlights and parking lights on separate switches so they can be used as needed.
Here are the finished pics:
Attachments
Last edited:
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great job Vincent. That looks awesome.
When will mine be shipped and I like red with lots of chrome.
When will mine be shipped and I like red with lots of chrome.