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Copper pipe to Compressor connection whip help?

mpire

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There has to be a simple trick to make this connection.

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I have 1/2 copper running up the wall to the attic. From the copper pipe I have a 2 foot whip that leaks at the connections.

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They are crimped hose connections. Its a lead in hose, whatever that means. It says its rated at 250 PSI and I assume its for this application. However, whenever the compressor fires up the hose ends leak around the crimps where the fittings slide into the crimps.

I have tried a harbor freight version and it was worse.

So what do I use to go from the copper to the tank? Is there a special recommendation, do I need to crimp the hose myself? Should I put some special goop on the connections?

Its not the threads that are leaking, its where the hose slides over the brass end piece and is crimped to the hose.

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Motorman55

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Your hose is defective. Should not leak at the crimp connection at all. I have leader hoses that swivel and they don't leak at the crimped area.
 
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mpire

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Yeah, under pressure you can hear it hissing. Its only 150 psi so IDK.

Also, I have to be able to sew it in to the compressor fitting. Do you use a quick connect or swivel or something for initial assembly?
 

K13

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St. Albert, AB Canada
I have never had a problem with whips leaking and I usually buy the cheapest ones I can find. I find it odd that two have leaked on you.
 

Justind97

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Ottawa, Canada
Is this hose in the attic? High heat will allow the hose to swell and possibly pop off.

I've accidentally left a hose with 125psi in it in the sun. Standing beside it it finally popped and was hissing everywhere. Scared the **** out of us. Learned a lesson that day!
 

rlitman

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Long Island
I used a hose barb and 1/2" ID air hose from HD.
It started to leak a little when I had worm clamps on it. I switched to Oetiker clamps (actually made for PEX), and no more leaking.
I'd say your crimps are defective.
 
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mpire

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Well, I had to go wiggle it just now, and the damn thing came off.

20160503_110525_zpsyetjrbb6.jpg


My ears are ringing pretty bad, just my luck.

Think I can cut it down and put a hose clamp on it? Think that would hold?

Last thing I want is for it to come off again.
 

Justind97

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Well, I had to go wiggle it just now, and the damn thing came off.

20160503_110525_zpsyetjrbb6.jpg


My ears are ringing pretty bad, just my luck.

Think I can cut it down and put a hose clamp on it? Think that would hold?

Last thing I want is for it to come off again.

Put a barb fitting and a hose clamp and keep it out of high temperature areas. Ours has this setup for 15 years now.
 
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mpire

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You may want to put a ball valve before the hose? But agreed put a hose clamp or 2 on it..
I will try hose clamp. I have a drawer full of them. I just wasn't sure if they would hold at 150 psi.

Anything is better than the crimp I guess.
 
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mpire

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You may want to put a ball valve before the hose? But agreed put a hose clamp or 2 on it..

What do I need a ball valve for? I have a ball valve before the regulator but that's a few feet away.

20160503_130703_zps5bvewdrv.jpg
 
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whateg01

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I've never had a problem like that. I do use a quick connect at the compressor so I don't have to use a union. Otherwise, you could coil it up and unwind it as you screw it in. My whip hose is from Harbor Freight and has never been a problem.

Dave
 

JerryB

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North Coast, CA
You asked "Do you use a quick connect or swivel or something for initial assembly?"

The simple answer is YES.

If you don't currently have a swivel connection on at least one end, how are you connecting the hose now? Are you over stressing the hose fittings by attempting to tighten them with out a swivel (or quick disconnect)?

Your failed hose looks like it has been severely mistreated. Perhaps by trying to connect it with out some kind of swivel connector? I have never had a leak at that point, from either the high quality ones (Goodyear) or the cheaper ones (Harbor Freight).
 
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jask

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Gods Country, B.C.
put it in the garbage and buy a new hydraulic hose ... if the one crimp was defective how much do you trust the other end?? what happens if it pops while you are away?


"Your failed hose looks like it has been severely mistreated." that's what they look like after they beat themselves on everything nearby... :)
 
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AJ1978

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Jamestown, PA
AGREE ON THE HYDRAULIC LINE.
I struggled once before finding a braided flex line, a simple hydraulic hose on my new set up was and is great
 

bobmulry

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Coarsegold, CA
A ball valve at the tank is certainly the way to go.......

If ANY line in the system starts leaking the entire system can be isolated from the source of the high pressure air......

Why not put a ball valve at the tank???????????????????????

Bob
 

Dustball

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Hudson, WI
My local Fleet Farm has everything I'd need to do what you're looking to do.

Short 1/2" x 18" hydraulic hose for $6.

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1/2" NPT x 1/2" swivel pipe elbow for $4

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1/2" NPT x 1/2" swivel pipe straight for $4

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All good for 4000 PSI. You should be able to find a store selling similar items nearby.
 

ovrrdrive

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What do I need a ball valve for? I have a ball valve before the regulator but that's a few feet away.

20160503_130703_zps5bvewdrv.jpg

Well for starters, if you had one at the tank when the whip blew off you could have shut off airflow and saved your ears a little...

I run one at the tank as well.
 

TAMPAGT07

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I went to a local hose place and told them what I needed, and they made it up for me... I also have a ball valve on the tank (Before the hose)... No need to keep all of my lines under pressure, unless I am using an air tool...
 

CJ7VFR

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...I also have a ball valve on the tank (Before the hose)... No need to keep all of my lines under pressure, unless I am using an air tool...

That is really good advice right there. It can help make your air system last longer too.

That is one of those things that when you read it you think god, why didn't I think of that!!!

Jim
 

JohnnyK8

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I used hydraulic hose from Farm and Barn. I also used hydraulic fittings (pivot elbows) and it worked out great. 3f5543f089627b3284512adcab1b31fe.jpg
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Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

JohnnyK8

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A ball valve at the tank is certainly the way to go.......

If ANY line in the system starts leaking the entire system can be isolated from the source of the high pressure air......

Why not put a ball valve at the tank???????????????????????

Bob
Agreed - this is the way to go.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

94EG8

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Apr 5, 2015
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You don't need a separate swivel fitting, you can get one or both ends of the hose crimped with a swivel right on it and save buying another fitting and having another place for a leak.
 

Moose364

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East Texas
Yep A hydraulic hose from Tractor supply or Atwoods. If you run your compressor a lot you get heat there and it kills the reg rubber hose, install you a Hydraulic hose and never have problems
 
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