Crack Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

[Bull]

I'm getting an angled die grinder because I don't have one and have wanted one. I believe it might help me in one current project, which is removing rust and scale from some hard-to-access areas behind the rear bumper of my wagon. I can't get a wire wheel or cup in the area, nor a small hand brush into the corners and nooks. I thought the grinding cones on a die grinder could help.

I have also wondered if one of those little gravity-feed speed blasters would be a good choice here?

I know the rust could probably just be left there, and that for each area I do there are undoubtedly all sorts of nooks and crannies that I can't even see, but I want to be able to neutralize what is there so I feel good.

Area in question


Tough to get into/around this bracket




I want to get this seam, too

 

[G_P]

Spot blaster would be easier and do a better job than a grinder in those areas.

Sent via carrier pigeon.

 

[Bull]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

Spot blaster would be easier and do a better job than a grinder in those areas.

Sent via carrier pigeon.

And how much of a crazy mess can I expect that to make? Or can the mess be controlled a bit?

 

[JJThrasher]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html

I have this guy. It does the job, but open air blasting is just a PITA.

 

[JJThrasher]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

And how much of a crazy mess can I expect that to make? Or can the mess be controlled a bit?

Do it outside if at all possible. Somewhere away from the shop and in the grass.

 

[signcrafter]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

Blasting will be best but does make a huge mess. It gets everywhere!

 

[doan]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

A blaster will work, but will be messy. I've been restoring a 59 Austin-Healey and I used this:

for Jobs like that. You can get the cup brush at most HD or lowes. Make sure it is rated for 20,000 RPM. After you get most of the rust off, paint it with POR15

 

[stratman977]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

Get this one over the little tank ones. You will empty out that tank about 100 times in the amount of work you have to do.

I sand blast stuff like this alot. I tend to scrape the goo and loose rust off first with either a wire brush and/or a scraper. Invest in a good respirator, ear plugs, and goggles. The goggles will be ruined after the job so don't use your favorite pair. Those cheapo masks that come with the sand blast kits you buy aren't any good. I even have a face shield that I use but you can hardly see out of it anymore.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007D30DO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I do it in my blacktop driveway. I sweep up the sand and use it until its all gone. You never pick up all of it. I have a cheapo dollar store spaghetti strainer that has about the right size holes to filter the sand for re-use. I like the black beauty sand better because it blends with the grass and driveway cause you will never get all of it up.

 

[cinco]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

I'll also advocate for the use of a spot blaster and black beauty. It probably won't be much quicker than a cup brush but it'll do a better job and you'll burn fewer calories doing it. In addition to what everyone else has said (I'd wear goggles AND a cheap-o full-face shield) you should keep in mind that sand ends up in places you didn't know existed so be sure to blow everything out as thoroughly as possible when you're done. And then blow it out some more. You might also put some phosphoric acid in a squirt bottle and hose down the nooks and crannies when you're done blasting or wire-wheeling - it'll convert the iron oxide into iron phosphate and more-or-less kill the rust. Depending on the amount of rust remaining in those elusive crannies you may have to keep it wet for a while and it'll need to be washed afterwards, but it does a pretty good job for me.

 

[Bull]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

A cup brush or knotted wheel won't even fit into some of these areas, like the inner portions of the brackets and the angles formed where the bracket meets the chassis.

The car is up on stands with its *** near to the garage door. I can't pus it out into the drive to do the work, and want to put the bumper back on before I fit the new exhaust into place. So I guess I will just need to deal with the mess. Maybe I'll put some tarps up to keep the media in a confined area.

Other than making a mess, is it going to be a big deal if the media gets into nooks and crannies?

Other than the HF speed blaster, is there one you'd recommend?

The only moisture trap I'd have is one of those disposable filters at the end of my air line; would that be enough?

 

[dellwas]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

Another option would be a needle scaler. Did an awesome job on my F-350 frame, and you can get it into some pretty tight spots.

 

[2mJps]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

And how much of a crazy mess can I expect that to make? Or can the mess be controlled a bit?

Your grandchildren will be born with sand in their ears. I have a sandblaster and a needle scaler. The scaler is loud. If i did much blasting i would take the engine out and take it to another state.

 

[crewchief888]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

i picked up a small portable blaster from sears a few years ago, on clearance for like $25

plastic tank, siphon feed,

i use glass bead in mine, it seems to flow a little better than the black beauty.

altho, glass bead is a LOT more expensive

 

[G_P]

Sent via carrier pigeon.

 

[CWP1616L]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

Other than making a mess, is it going to be a big deal if the media gets into nooks and crannies?

The blast media will get stuck in there and prevent the paint from going in there later on.

 

[G_P]

If possible sandblast the day before some heavy rain.

The dust and sand will coat everything in the general area but a good rainstorm cleans it up and washes it away.

Proper mask/respirator is a must. Along with good gloves. The sand will bounce back and chew up your hand otherwise.

Sent via carrier pigeon.

 

[eric_koski]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

How about this stuff? Check out the restos and slideshows.

http://safestrustremover.com/acid.asp

 

[CWP1616L]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

For that bracket I'd be tempted to use a series of wire wheels
along with my Irwin (88601) 12 inch extension. I use the
extension whenever it need to clean out a pipe in the wall.
Sorry about the giant image.

 

[stratman977]

Re: Crack' Blastin' (A Rust Removal Issue)

I don't know what kind of compressor you have but I find that blowing a fan on the tank helps keep the air a little cooler and keeps the moisture down. It takes a lot of air and will run the compressor hard.

You should be fine on the moisture with a siphon feed unit. The moist air only travels a short distance through the gun so it doesn't make that big of a deal. The pressure units don't like moisture at all though. The harbor freight gray plastic tank unit isn't bad. I really wouldn't bother with the spot blasters for as much as you want to do it will be a pain.

You have to spend some time blowing out the sand particles out of the nooks and crannies. I blasted the inside of my rocker panels through the back side holes on a f250 and was able to get the sand out of them. It just takes patience. Bump the panels with a rubber hammer and use a blow gun and you can get it clean.

I would watch your rear brake drums and wheel seals cause you don't want sand in there. Also your garage door will collect sand in the greased parts and will crunch if you do it in the garage. You have to clean and re-grease everything if this happens.