FrankLee
Well-known member
Please post a picture of your set-up. There are several variables which affect belt length.
Craftsman 150 drill press question
- Thread starter lafester
- Start date
Please post a picture of your set-up. There are several variables which affect belt length.
FrankLee
Well-known member
In your case, it may be that the Dayton motor has a shorter stance. What is the distance between the centerline of the motor shaft and the motor base? Compare to your craftsman motor.
New belts are installed. Could have gone with a 26" for the rear but the 27" is fine.
Having trouble getting the reducer pulley tight in the column. It has a little play and can't tighten the hex screw any further. Thinking I did not align the screw properly with the gap in the sleeve. So I get to pull it all apart and try again.
Initially read the speed chart wrong and had the belt positions flipped.... high rpm is not good when everything isn't lined up yet. Once that was sorted and lined up it does run pretty smooth even with the sloppy middle pulley.
Ok got the middle pulley in nice and solid and everything running pretty good. Once it warms up outside I will think about doing a full teardown and rebuild.
Having trouble getting the reducer pulley tight in the column. It has a little play and can't tighten the hex screw any further. Thinking I did not align the screw properly with the gap in the sleeve. So I get to pull it all apart and try again.
Initially read the speed chart wrong and had the belt positions flipped.... high rpm is not good when everything isn't lined up yet. Once that was sorted and lined up it does run pretty smooth even with the sloppy middle pulley.
Ok got the middle pulley in nice and solid and everything running pretty good. Once it warms up outside I will think about doing a full teardown and rebuild.
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After getting the pulley and belts sorted out I decided to see why the base was wobbling. Tried a few things but nothing was working. Finally figured out the pole was too far down... raised it up 1/2" and its steady as a rock now. I've been using a bottle jack and some 2x6 blocks to fine tune the head height and it worked just as good raising the pole up just enough to get it off the floor.
Figured out what I'm going to do with the 100 craftsman badge.
It is going on the front of the table. Looks great so far I just need to find the rivet that flew across the garage when I popped it out.
Had to use the larger rivets as I didn't have a proper size bit for the smaller ones. Almost looks like it belongs there.
It is going on the front of the table. Looks great so far I just need to find the rivet that flew across the garage when I popped it out.
Had to use the larger rivets as I didn't have a proper size bit for the smaller ones. Almost looks like it belongs there.
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Just got my rapid adjust feed stop ordered off ebay. Messaged the seller with all the parts listed a few days ago and he was nice enough to let me know when he was ready to put it up. Its dirty, missing the lock lever and has a bolt in its place but its a good start.
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Thanks again to FrankLee for his awesome guides.
I was rereading the table lock guide and it inspired me to try and get the lock cylinders out to free the tilt table from the column. I had tried to do this before but feared destroying them in the process. Got them out and slid the table right off.
Just got the tilt lock cylinders out and the damn thing still doesn't tilt. Was thinking I should have kept the head lock arm and bolt for the tilt lock. Oh well it's gone now.
Tilt table is completely torn down. Took a little encouragement but it suddenly came apart pretty easy. Started cleaning up the column... that could take a little while.
I was rereading the table lock guide and it inspired me to try and get the lock cylinders out to free the tilt table from the column. I had tried to do this before but feared destroying them in the process. Got them out and slid the table right off.
Just got the tilt lock cylinders out and the damn thing still doesn't tilt. Was thinking I should have kept the head lock arm and bolt for the tilt lock. Oh well it's gone now.
Tilt table is completely torn down. Took a little encouragement but it suddenly came apart pretty easy. Started cleaning up the column... that could take a little while.
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FrankLee
Well-known member
I'm happy to know my posts are helping.
Many times, those tilt table are stuck. I think they were rarely used. They usually come apart after a little persuasion and cursing. I did have one on DP #25 where I could not get it apart no matter what I did or said.
The tilt locks never came with a handle, afaik. I do have several spare cast lock cylinder sets and plenty of handles... especially the tapered handles.
Cleaned up the benchtop pole and put everything together to use as a stand.
It's a little short for me and will have to play with it for awhile to determine if it gets a permanent home. There is also the possibility of using it for the press and using the big column for a stand. I suppose if I made a rolling base for it that would solve everything.
Oh and more good news on the rapid adjust situation. A very kind member here is sending me a complete set with the lock screw. Now I just need to find a table lift ha ha. I see I've missed a couple for sale... one as recently as last week. Typical. Not going to shell out huge bucks for one though so I need to find a donor.
It's a little short for me and will have to play with it for awhile to determine if it gets a permanent home. There is also the possibility of using it for the press and using the big column for a stand. I suppose if I made a rolling base for it that would solve everything.
Oh and more good news on the rapid adjust situation. A very kind member here is sending me a complete set with the lock screw. Now I just need to find a table lift ha ha. I see I've missed a couple for sale... one as recently as last week. Typical. Not going to shell out huge bucks for one though so I need to find a donor.
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FrankLee
Well-known member
The bench drill press column is the same height as most of the Craftsman pedestal columns. They could actually be interchanged because they also have the same diameter. The pedestal columns may have a thinner wall tho.
IMO, the drill press stand is far superior than the pedestal stands. It is significantly heavier and has a larger footprint making it much more stable. YMMV.
Once you install your grinder or whatever on the stand, the working height is much better. The floor standing set-up is also a great option, depending on the tool to be mounted.
That's awesome about the feed stop collar assembly!
I don't have any column caps available at the moment.
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Got my feed stop from the member here today. Already looking pretty good in the vinegar.
I was always under the impression that it was two pieces. Works pretty good though, much nicer then spinning the nuts down.
Update: it is two pieces they were just frozen together. Has the spring inside to really fine tune the stop position. Nice. Getting pretty clean now but will let it soak over night.
I was always under the impression that it was two pieces. Works pretty good though, much nicer then spinning the nuts down.
Update: it is two pieces they were just frozen together. Has the spring inside to really fine tune the stop position. Nice. Getting pretty clean now but will let it soak over night.
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looks like that cleaned up pretty nice. Have you had a chance to play around with the cross slide vice? I have been considering one, but can't decide if I want to get a cheaper harbor freight or save up and get a high quality brand.
Hey I didn't even notice it was you. Thanks again and yeah it is starting to look like new. I've never done a vinegar soak before... always just took a wire wheel to everything.
The vise is ok and for me it is more then good enough to start with. If I ever get to a point where every micrometer matters then I will start looking for a nice one. It really just depends on what you will be using it for and how much money you are willing to devote to one vise. They must be ok because you never see them on craigslist, only the pricey ones.
No problem. Glad it worked out.
Thanks for the input on it. I might pick one up. Just looking to get holes positioned close and make it a little easier. So sounds like i can get some movement and precision with that. Would just be eyeballing marks since its just a drill press and not a mill with dro.
That really is a sharp looking unit you have gotten yourself there. How does the 3rd pulley do for slowing it down for metal? I have a DC motor that I am thinking about trying to outfit on mine instead of a 3rd pulley. Mine isn't nearly clean as yours though.
Been testing out a 2" Forstner bit @ 175 rpm and it did great. Had some belt slippage on a huge knot but that could be due to the quality of a hf bit. Also fine tuned the belt tension since then.
Update: just tried out a 3" hole saw and got some belt slippage. I did complete the hole though. I think using the smallest pulley might be an issue here. Going to try again @ 400 rpm.
One thing I don't like is the lack of mid range speeds.
Yeah I'm very happy how everything turned out. Really though I like the look of them in any original condition better then painted.
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After scouring all of craigslist for weeks I finally found a press with the atlas table lift.
Took a day of negotiating but they are going to pull the lift off and send it to me.
I am paying up for it, but still a fair amount less then ebay pricing if one were to ever come up for sale.
I figure at some point I will find a good flipper or two locally and will make up the cost that way. Even if I don't, having a lightly used 150 with reduction pulley and atlas lift for under $200 is a pretty good deal.
Took a day of negotiating but they are going to pull the lift off and send it to me.
I am paying up for it, but still a fair amount less then ebay pricing if one were to ever come up for sale.
I figure at some point I will find a good flipper or two locally and will make up the cost that way. Even if I don't, having a lightly used 150 with reduction pulley and atlas lift for under $200 is a pretty good deal.
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Got a bunch of free points from sears and picked up their low end craftsman 29 pc titanium drill bit set, 2 14 pc titanium sets and 2 of these WEN 12" Drill Press vise grips. The bits seem to be fine, nice and sharp at least out of the box and after a few test holes. I lose and break bits all the time so this should keep me in stock for awhile.
When I was at WalMart last night I noticed the steel case on the 29 pc was identical to the Black and Decker 29 pc black oxide kit. Also noticed the B&D 6 pc wire wheel kit and sanding drum kit were identical to the HF ones I looked at the day before.
The WEN clamps are great and two of them will lock down your work in almost any direction, and are tall enough to have a second piece underneath. If you have some points to burn and need a drill press clamp I recommend.
When I was at WalMart last night I noticed the steel case on the 29 pc was identical to the Black and Decker 29 pc black oxide kit. Also noticed the B&D 6 pc wire wheel kit and sanding drum kit were identical to the HF ones I looked at the day before.
The WEN clamps are great and two of them will lock down your work in almost any direction, and are tall enough to have a second piece underneath. If you have some points to burn and need a drill press clamp I recommend.
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So while I was getting set to test my new clamps I decided to check out the lock collar above the chuck and see how tight it was. I watched a video on chuck removal today so for some reason I now think I know what I am doing.
Just with the end of the chuck key I was able to easily loosen the collar. The threads, collar and chuck look basically new so I just tightened it up and continued testing. Once I pull it apart I will know for sure but damn I think this thing basically sat in the shop for 50 years. The seller said he renovates houses and finds this stuff all the time just left behind.
Funny thing is the sliding xy vise that was on it was very dirty and full of metal shavings. I think the seller put it on there from another find and never cleaned it up.
Just with the end of the chuck key I was able to easily loosen the collar. The threads, collar and chuck look basically new so I just tightened it up and continued testing. Once I pull it apart I will know for sure but damn I think this thing basically sat in the shop for 50 years. The seller said he renovates houses and finds this stuff all the time just left behind.
Funny thing is the sliding xy vise that was on it was very dirty and full of metal shavings. I think the seller put it on there from another find and never cleaned it up.
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Was looking at the pic of the table lift and it really looks like they have a stop collar below the table and above the bottom lift collar. No idea why anyone would do that but I'm sure gonna try to get it included with the deal. Also not sure why every cl post has to have blurry pics.
Thinking they put it there to use as a spacer for easier access to the lock arm below.
Thinking they put it there to use as a spacer for easier access to the lock arm below.
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FrankLee
Well-known member
That machine is a third(?) generation Emerson. The table is not original to that machine.
Yes, that picture is blurry, but I'm thinking the casting of the table falls below the table clamping collar and prevents full contact around the column of the lower lift collar on the table collar. IMO, that is a thinner spacer that fits behind the table protrusion. Below is an example on a different style table.
The lock arm seen under the table is on the lower lift collar and should normally be unlocked when used as a table lift.
How far away from you is that lift?
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Tonight I got my 1/2 hp vintage craftsman motor running and swapped it with the dayton 1/2 hp on my dp. Did some more testing with the 3" hole saw, moved the belt up one notch and tightened it down real good. No more slipping and it rips right through a 2x6 no problem. I believe the new belts just need to break in as you can really feel where they were bent for so long on the shelf.
The new (old) motor is doing great and it's nice to have a reverse switch built in. Once it warms up and I get my other projects out the door I will rebuild and paint it. It's pretty cool to see a 70 year old motor fire right up and go to work without doing anything to it except swapping the cord. Well I did clean out some of the sludge in the bearings and add a little new grease but that's it.
Still waiting on the atlas lift but I did get a pressmate yesterday. I'm trying to resist putting it on since it is new in box, but if the other one takes much longer it will have to come out to play.
The new (old) motor is doing great and it's nice to have a reverse switch built in. Once it warms up and I get my other projects out the door I will rebuild and paint it. It's pretty cool to see a 70 year old motor fire right up and go to work without doing anything to it except swapping the cord. Well I did clean out some of the sludge in the bearings and add a little new grease but that's it.
Still waiting on the atlas lift but I did get a pressmate yesterday. I'm trying to resist putting it on since it is new in box, but if the other one takes much longer it will have to come out to play.
Finally got my Atlas table lift along with an Emerson Craftsman drill press.
Starting to clean everything up and look for damage.
Looks great to me and can't wait to put it on my 150. The pressmate is now for sale and will be in the classifieds soon.
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Starting to clean everything up and look for damage.
Looks great to me and can't wait to put it on my 150. The pressmate is now for sale and will be in the classifieds soon.
Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
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The atlas lift is all apart and almost clean. Everything looks great except the bearing which for some reason is cracked in several places. Ordered a new one but will still put it together before it gets here. I figure it was working fine before so it should still work at least for a few days. The plan is just to clean it up and put it back to work as I like the way it looks as is.
The dp is back together, just need to figure out the motor situation. Wanted to swap motors but I need the larger keyed shaft for the pulley and the motor I want to use has the thinner shaft. My other option was to swap in my band saw motor but it is non reversable and going counter clockwise.
The dp is back together, just need to figure out the motor situation. Wanted to swap motors but I need the larger keyed shaft for the pulley and the motor I want to use has the thinner shaft. My other option was to swap in my band saw motor but it is non reversable and going counter clockwise.
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That is not a problem. Google "motor shaft adapter". You will see all kinds of stuff but you want the sleeve with the window for the key or the partial sleeve with the key. Just put your size requiremets in your search, like 1/2 to 5/8 motor shaft adapter. Try ebay. They are common and cheap. The problem is when you want to go the other way and your motor shaft is too big for your rare multi step pulley.The atlas lift is all apart and almost clean. Everything looks great except the bearing which for some reason is cracked in several places. Ordered a new one but will still put it together before it gets here. I figure it was working fine before so it should still work at least for a few days. The plan is just to clean it up and put it back to work as I like the way it looks as is.
The dp is back together, just need to figure out the motor situation. Wanted to swap motors but I need the larger keyed shaft for the pulley and the motor I want to use has the thinner shaft. My other option was to swap in my band saw motor but it is non reversable and going counter clockwise.
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Yeah I've found some but they are a bit pricey for a simple sleeve.
Once I find a good source I will post a link.
So I've installed the lift twice now and changed sides twice on top of that. Decided having it opposite of the quill crank is best and using the tilt table allows it to face straight out for easier turning. It turns fairly smooth but I am sure the new thrust bearing will make it perfect.
Really really like this lift, too bad they are so hard to find.
Once I find a good source I will post a link.
So I've installed the lift twice now and changed sides twice on top of that. Decided having it opposite of the quill crank is best and using the tilt table allows it to face straight out for easier turning. It turns fairly smooth but I am sure the new thrust bearing will make it perfect.
Really really like this lift, too bad they are so hard to find.
Ok I found what looks like a pretty good deal on the adapter sleeves.
https://indoorcomfortsupply.com/1-2-x-5-8-motor-shaft-adapter-2742/
$3.69 ea and they offer first class shipping. My test order was for 3 @ $11.07 + $4.98 shipping = $16.05 total.
https://indoorcomfortsupply.com/1-2-x-5-8-motor-shaft-adapter-2742/
$3.69 ea and they offer first class shipping. My test order was for 3 @ $11.07 + $4.98 shipping = $16.05 total.
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FrankLee
Well-known member
That is looking great!
I never paid too much attention to the position of the scale. I just checked and the two I have are like that. I don't think it matters because the real zero is when the drill bit touches the work. It's all relative.
Re: Craftsman 150 drill press and other tools
Just picked these up today. One will replace my current saw and then flip the other along with my old one. My question is one has what looks like a 6 in (its a 10 in) pulley to slow it down as it was running a 3400 motor. My old bs has a 1750 motor but it looks kind of cheap compared to my 3400 motor.
I have the option to run either motor and big or small pulley... I could really slow it down with the big pulley and my 1750 or keep the better built 3400 motor. No idea what to do here. Thinking I'll keep the 3400 and eventually I'm sure I'll have an extra 1750 I can swap in for metal if I want.
Not really an upgrade except for the table, and coolness factor. Looks like I might be able to modify my fence from the little companion table saw. The guides will bolt right up to the table, then add some spacers to make it the right width.
FYI I think I posted the pics of my old saw in my jointer thread. It's just the common 12" craftsman band saw / sander you see everywhere. It has a light, which is nice but that table is cheap and has the one plastic side.
Paid $60 for the pair + a cheap home made stand. No motors.
Just picked these up today. One will replace my current saw and then flip the other along with my old one. My question is one has what looks like a 6 in (its a 10 in) pulley to slow it down as it was running a 3400 motor. My old bs has a 1750 motor but it looks kind of cheap compared to my 3400 motor.
I have the option to run either motor and big or small pulley... I could really slow it down with the big pulley and my 1750 or keep the better built 3400 motor. No idea what to do here. Thinking I'll keep the 3400 and eventually I'm sure I'll have an extra 1750 I can swap in for metal if I want.
Not really an upgrade except for the table, and coolness factor. Looks like I might be able to modify my fence from the little companion table saw. The guides will bolt right up to the table, then add some spacers to make it the right width.
FYI I think I posted the pics of my old saw in my jointer thread. It's just the common 12" craftsman band saw / sander you see everywhere. It has a light, which is nice but that table is cheap and has the one plastic side.
Paid $60 for the pair + a cheap home made stand. No motors.
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Re: Craftsman 150 drill press and other tools
Got my band saw kind of set up. What a mess. I wanted to swap pulleys and that was a big mistake. The big one came off but not until i put a nice wobble in it. The smaller pulley is now destroyed with cuts, drill holes and burn marks. That thing was simply not coming off.
Of course I had to pick the nicer exterior saw over the nicer interior along with the pulley I needed. Anyway I think the key is to let the motor spin off the pulley but I didn't figure that out until after the destruction.
Tonight I finished shortening the fence and it really worked out well. Now I have a factory looking fence that really holds tight. Just had to trim about 1.5 in of the end and drill a couple new holes. Also had to add that much thread on the end of the clamping shaft and trim off the extra length.
Got my band saw kind of set up. What a mess. I wanted to swap pulleys and that was a big mistake. The big one came off but not until i put a nice wobble in it. The smaller pulley is now destroyed with cuts, drill holes and burn marks. That thing was simply not coming off.
Of course I had to pick the nicer exterior saw over the nicer interior along with the pulley I needed. Anyway I think the key is to let the motor spin off the pulley but I didn't figure that out until after the destruction.
Tonight I finished shortening the fence and it really worked out well. Now I have a factory looking fence that really holds tight. Just had to trim about 1.5 in of the end and drill a couple new holes. Also had to add that much thread on the end of the clamping shaft and trim off the extra length.
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