Craftsman bench drill press, need help identifying model/year

[Licher]

My grandfather passed away almost a year ago, and knew I was into using and restoring old tools. He said he wanted me to get his drill press that he purchased new, a long time ago. I didn't get a chance to ask him much about it and my grandmother doesn't know much about it, either.

I love how simple it is and can't wait to restore it but I could use some help with identifying the model so I can get missing/broken parts for it.

I've looked on a lot of other forums to help, and think I'm close, but can't seem to get an exact match. I'd like to preface this by saying my grandpa was one of the greatest men to ever live and he had the greatest, laid-back personality of anyone I ever knew. He was famous for "rigging" stuff and often said, "Why do one thing right, when you can two things half-assed in half the time." He also "fixed" a toilet that was leaning to one side by putting pennies under the low side, which resulted in it becoming too high. His answer to this was, "It used to be crooked, but I fixed it and rather than leave it level, it's now better than level."

Anyway, the point of this is that the drill press may not have original parts, and might even have parts from another model of drill press. So, it may be difficult, if not impossible to determine the correct model.

The main identifying features I've been looking at are the:

• Color - I've cleaned some areas and found the color to be blue
• Motor - Companion 1/3 hp motor
• Head - very distinct flat bottom, curved top
• Table - 2 perpendicual slits
• Pulley cover – distinct “Craftsman logo”, no cover for the driveshaft on top
• Motor mount – Bolts are top mounted, not side
• Handle – 2 spoke vs 4 spoke
• decals/markings - only a single SFK decal, model info on motor, and craftsman label cast on pulley guard

I've found several similar models online:
This one has the 2 spoke handle and correct table, but has a cover on the driveshaft, and side mounted bolts for the motor mount
This one is missing the driveshaft cover, but has side mounted motor mount bolts, and a 4 slit table
This one is the closest match I've found, meets all of the criteria, but the handle has 4 spokes
Another very close match, but also has the 4 spoke handle

Since the 2 bottom presses I've found that are very close have a 4 spoke handle, I'm wondering if this was replaced at one time. Any help with identify this would be greatly appreciated.

As for restoring, I have the following questions:

1. Do I sandblast or use electrolysis? I have the tools/ability to do either.
2. Where to I get the vintage SFK sticker?
3. Where can I get a tooth for the broken one in the chuck?
4. What hardware (nuts/bolts) should I use? Should I try to get vintage hardware, or replace with SS? The ones on there currently do not all look OEM
5. Do I paint or powder coat? I'd like to use the vintage craftsman blue
6. Where was the original switch location?
7. Where can I find the original feed stop assembly? I see this one is missing it

 

[Licher]

Now for the photos:
Here is a link to the entire album

I'd like to leave these couple of "mistakes" my grandfather made

some good ole-fashioned rigging of a switch

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tsRTgWtwRhIqwGf64amBGW7gBO8eUdT0ZOUAw7WywwGmCK2_mgjs2B9liq60Lp2s1qEmsPn6kDlDUG5pmN194Ytvshll9T-YDpPuZ6ZnJLIosMDhbTifzPePlor9L54XwRPidrlOvd34rXYkP5C_Gypy3qQX6PHuQQGr4RxRh9VuSCiugvqkCm1OAWNUGs27f5ULz3s7kFvAB5kft0hWeapBPn_-kYOHT8OOfban-**-zkiXGDgNkRLTnsoHr1612en6XyGBmWSUEReP8CkdkI0T-j4nalaWeUWQT55XVAajEfaQnag9VDrBwN_EsInP1WdiylDjw9hlSSGyAoPBKJ_QMleVwNcGFxWyz12KStkxaG_LvdNHeLlwBaH3grB5tJmjLSQHgMmFL4Hfvmlh9jhsBCwFy02_G8fGsWUXn2NzJjt6hcAu-yev-d6wPGDzG8luIRykK3eH_GrTqCwTFH8Y88Q9fMLKVDmSQCJrVPAjID7aqxWszB6c39RuhIgEYp2hrBTxkGgf2Qy55BOK-fyY3VRNHS-U4kPjzx75rXrG5evWlIKpEHAnRuOPNLyN8IJuYw=w1529-h1019-no

broken tooth

Motor model is S-3900 (hard to read)

removed motor, belt and pulley guard to relieve some weight on the workbench

quick cleaning revealed some of the blue

decal I'd like to replace

 

[jakemac]

First - To determine the size of the drill press, put a measuring tape against the post and measure to the center of the chuck. Then multiply that number by 2. That will tell you if it's an 11-1/2", 12-1/2", 14", or 15" model. This will help narrow the choices for the model number.

Second - Whatever the model, that DP was made by Atlas for Craftsman. Someone will need to correct me, but the equivalent Atlas model is likely a #5(x) or #6(x) [fifty-something or sixty-something]. The Craftsman model number will start with 101.(xxxxx).

Third - Yes, there is a missing chromed cover (condom) that goes over the spindle on top. They show up on eBay occasionally, but are expensive. I paid $50 for my spindle cover.

Fourth - IIRC, the two handled DP's were generally made in 1936/7 and earlier. From 1938 or so, they had three handles. And from 1940 'til production switched to King-Seely, they had four handles. There are some exceptions, but most of those were branded under the Companion or Dunlap label.

Fifth - The model number would have been on a metal tag riveted with two drive pins, on the base next to the post. You should see two holes (possibly plugged by the broken pins) in that area.

Sixth - The blue is the correct color, but the shade varied a bit, but not as much as the gray that was used later. The closest rattle can color I've found is Valspar's Classic Royal Blue #85205. Available at Lowes.

Seventh - An image of the bearing decal can be found at OWWM.org in their decal section, if you can find it. You can use that image to make your own replacement decal.
Found it :
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Decals-Craftsman.ashx

Eighth - The motor looks to be contemporary to the DP. There should be a date code stamped on the data plate. A letter and number followed by two numbers. The last two numbers would be the year the motor was made.

I hope this helps. I have a 1941 version of that style DP that I also got from my Grandfather and am emotionally attached to the Craftsman/Atlas models.

 

[bubinga]

you could sand blast, surly, and surely use electrolysis.
you may want to just just abrade it down a brass cup on a drill and get most of it knocked down like that Remember, ALL of the old paint don't have to come off, as long as the rust is gone best you can get it, wipe it all down with brake cleaner or paint thinner, then brake cleaner and get a good coat of two of primer on it,
IMO you may like how it is starting to look.
let your primer dry about a full then lightly wet sand the areas you primmed, and you should br ready for paint.
No, I musy say, YMMV,,,,, but i have had good results using this method.
sometimes my machined look refinished, buy not BRAND NeW refinished, so they look like possible orgionial paint.

 

[Licher]

First - To determine the size of the drill press, put a measuring tape against the post and measure to the center of the chuck. Then multiply that number by 2. That will tell you if it's an 11-1/2", 12-1/2", 14", or 15" model. This will help narrow the choices for the model number.

Second - Whatever the model, that DP was made by Atlas for Craftsman. Someone will need to correct me, but the equivalent Atlas model is likely a #5(x) or #6(x) [fifty-something or sixty-something]. The Craftsman model number will start with 101.(xxxxx).

Third - Yes, there is a missing chromed cover (condom) that goes over the spindle on top. They show up on eBay occasionally, but are expensive. I paid $50 for my spindle cover.

Fourth - IIRC, the two handled DP's were generally made in 1936/7 and earlier. From 1938 or so, they had three handles. And from 1940 'til production switched to King-Seely, they had four handles. There are some exceptions, but most of those were branded under the Companion or Dunlap label.

Fifth - The model number would have been on a metal tag riveted with two drive pins, on the base next to the post. You should see two holes (possibly plugged by the broken pins) in that area.

Sixth - The blue is the correct color, but the shade varied a bit, but not as much as the gray that was used later. The closest rattle can color I've found is Valspar's Classic Royal Blue #85205. Available at Lowes.

Seventh - An image of the bearing decal can be found at OWWM.org in their decal section, if you can find it. You can use that image to make your own replacement decal.
Found it :
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Decals-Craftsman.ashx

Eighth - The motor looks to be contemporary to the DP. There should be a date code stamped on the data plate. A letter and number followed by two numbers. The last two numbers would be the year the motor was made.

I hope this helps. I have a 1941 version of that style DP that I also got from my Grandfather and am emotionally attached to the Craftsman/Atlas models.

Thanks for the quick response and multitude of information. I will take the measurement tonight and respond. As for the tag near the base, i think it was 45, but I'll check on that too

 

[Licher]

you could sand blast, surly, and surely use electrolysis.
you may want to just just abrade it down a brass cup on a drill and get most of it knocked down like that Remember, ALL of the old paint don't have to come off, as long as the rust is gone best you can get it, wipe it all down with brake cleaner or paint thinner, then brake cleaner and get a good coat of two of primer on it,
IMO you may like how it is starting to look.
let your primer dry about a full then lightly wet sand the areas you primmed, and you should br ready for paint.
No, I musy say, YMMV,,,,, but i have had good results using this method.
sometimes my machined look refinished, buy not BRAND NeW refinished, so they look like possible orgionial paint.

Thanks, I'll look into using this method. I'm definitely interested in keeping it looking vintage, so this could work.

 

[HarryJM]

Join OWWM.org and as there is a lot of rebuilding, etc. knowledge concerning older machines.

 

[Licher]

Join OWWM.org and as there is a lot of rebuilding, etc. knowledge concerning older machines.

Will do, thanks.
It seems all the info I find about this press has come from there.

 

[Maui]

In case you didn't know it, your drill press originally came with SKF bearings in it.

Maui

 

[Licher]

In case you didn't know it, your drill press originally came with SKF bearings in it.

Maui

Thanks, I assumed that but this brings up another question. Do I need to replace or repack the bearings? How can I tell?

 

[Licher]

First - To determine the size of the drill press, put a measuring tape against the post and measure to the center of the chuck. Then multiply that number by 2. That will tell you if it's an 11-1/2", 12-1/2", 14", or 15" model. This will help narrow the choices for the model number.

ok, I measured and got 6 1/2", so it would be a 13" model, correct?

Second - Whatever the model, that DP was made by Atlas for Craftsman. Someone will need to correct me, but the equivalent Atlas model is likely a #5(x) or #6(x) [fifty-something or sixty-something]. The Craftsman model number will start with 101.(xxxxx).

I've been using the reference number 101.XXXXX to find information but I'll look into the atlas number as well.

Third - Yes, there is a missing chromed cover (condom) that goes over the spindle on top. They show up on eBay occasionally, but are expensive. I paid $50 for my spindle cover.

I'll keep an eye out for one. I see this one (which ended) for $54.

Fifth - The model number would have been on a metal tag riveted with two drive pins, on the base next to the post. You should see two holes (possibly plugged by the broken pins) in that area.

I've taken a closer look and still can't see anything lie what you are describing. I know where to look as I've seen it on other models. Perhaps it will reveal itself when I remove some more crud.

Sixth - The blue is the correct color, but the shade varied a bit, but not as much as the gray that was used later. The closest rattle can color I've found is Valspar's Classic Royal Blue #85205. Available at Lowes.

I'll take a look, I've also read Krylon Regal Blue is a close match as well. Happen to know if either one is more durable?

Seventh - An image of the bearing decal can be found at OWWM.org in their decal section, if you can find it. You can use that image to make your own replacement decal.
Found it :
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Decals-Craftsman.ashx

Yes, i have this site bookmarked as well. I'm not a fan of the restoration of it, but it may be what I have to use. How would I go about getting this created into a decal?

Eighth - The motor looks to be contemporary to the DP. There should be a date code stamped on the data plate. A letter and number followed by two numbers. The last two numbers would be the year the motor was made.

I looked at the model number and see its, "A46" which is strange because I've read the companion name was replaced by Dunlap in 1941.

I hope this helps. I have a 1941 version of that style DP that I also got from my Grandfather and am emotionally attached to the Craftsman/Atlas models.

Very helpful, thanks for your time and knowledge.

 

[jakemac]

I did a little online searching today and came up with two models that seem close, but both have bolts for the motor mount on the sides, not on top.
101.03580
101.03581
Yours may be an earlier model.
Both of those are 12-3/4" DP's which is only 1/8" off from your 6-1/2" measurement. I'd look for the 1934-1936 Craftsman catalogs to narrow your search.

I do have digital copies of all the Craftsman catalogs, but my computer is dead and I don't have access to the files on my tablet so I can't look them up for you. I'm Techno-Blocked for the foreseeable future.

Yes, the spindle cover you referenced should be correct for your DP.

Krylon or Valspar, I've used them both but haven't noticed a difference in durability ---- yet. The important thing is making sure either is applied correctly.

You can print the decals at home on your printer using decal paper for either Inkjet or Laser printers. Read the instructions, experiment, and don't forget to seal the ink with a clear coating once you get it how you want it.

1946 doesn't seem right for a Companion motor. Could you post a clearer picture of the data plate? I'm thinking the motor should be around 1936, or so.

 

[bubinga]

Looking at that spindle cover if a guy had a metal lathe, and a nice piece of aluminum stock, I don't think it would be too awful hard to make one if those spindle covers. It would be nice to have one as a pattern.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[Licher]

1946 doesn't seem right for a Companion motor. Could you post a clearer picture of the data plate? I'm thinking the motor should be around 1936, or so.

Sorry for the late response, but here is a better picture.

 

[Licher]

So...
I've started restoring the motor. I can see my grandpa did some rigging to change the switch location. I'm wondering where the original switch location was and what it looked like?

I've also messed up it seems in removing the motor cover and broke a tooth off and cracked the housing. Is there anyway to repair this? Can I use jb weld to "glue" the broken tab back in and fill in the crack? (photos below) I plan to blast this and repaint and fill any imperfections. Will this piece hold up to blasting?

Also, what is the goal when restoring the motor? The bearings seem to work great but could use some grease, any recommendations?

The rotor is a little rusty (picture below), any ideas how to clean this up? It is even necessary?

What should I absolutely NOT do?


Here is the broken tab

Here is the cracked housing

rusty rotor

 

[jakemac]

Sorry for the late response, but here is a better picture.

Well, that definitely reads as A 4 6. This is just a guess, with no facts to support it, but I'm going to say that because there is a space between the numbers it should read as A April 1936. Rather than A 1946. Noone is sure what the letter signifies, but speculation is that it might be a factory designation or perhaps an assembly line code.

I spent a little time digging out my unused motors to see if I had a similar one in stock. Nope. Plenty of Craftsman and Dunlap, but only one Companion. It's also a 1/3hp motor, but unfortunately it has what I think is a smaller, possibly older data plate with a serial number, but no date code. So no help there.

I can't help with with the rebuild or repair, so far I've been too chicken to crack one open. If you search the site, other members have documented their motor rebuild projects. One of those threads may help, or you could try PMing them for help.

Welding cast metal isn't easy. The cast should be pre-heated and then cooled slowly. I should think that brazing would work, since there shouldn't be much stress on those parts. Others would know better.

Good luck.

 

[CalsXS2]

Hmmm. I'm not seeing any new pics. Is everyone else.

 

[bubinga]

Hmmm. I'm not seeing any new pics. Is everyone else.

No

 

[CalsXS2]

Is there supposed to be pics in post #15?

 

[Licher]

Hmmm. I'm not seeing any new pics. Is everyone else.

No

Is there supposed to be pics in post #15?

Sorry all, I see what I did wrong. The original photos were in a google shared album, the rest of the photos were not in this album. I'm adding them now and will adjust as needed if the url changes

 

[Licher]

Hmmm. I'm not seeing any new pics. Is everyone else.

No

Is there supposed to be pics in post #15?

fixed! Let me know if you still have problems viewing them. I now know the process for adding photos to the album, so there shouldn't be an issue in the future.

As a reminder, here is a link to the entire album
https://goo.gl/photos/d5ZZBc9q47sf7prG9

Thanks for looking and I appreciate your help!

 

[DanZ3]

Your drill press appears to be similar or the same as mine. Based on the model number mine is vintage 1938.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Licher]

Your drill press appears to be similar or the same as mine.

Very nice, similar but I've spotted some differences. How did you get the post and surfaces so shiny? What do you do to keep it from rusting?

 

[DanZ3]

I used mr. Clean magic erasers on the paint. Be careful and try in an area first. Steel wool and mild scotch brite pads for the steel areas. Light oil keeps it from rusting.

 

[Licher]

I used mr. Clean magic erasers on the paint. Be careful and try in an area first. Steel wool and mild scotch brite pads for the steel areas. Light oil keeps it from rusting.

Thanks, I'll have to try that

 

[2coolhipdude]

Your model might be the one on Page 6. If you are still restoring it, and are still searching for parts, I have access to one that is for parts. No motor or shield. Has the head assembly, base, column and table. Since I don't have 5 comments yet, I can't do a clickable link. Lol. So copy and paste away. vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/Craftsman/1939CraftsmanPart3.pdf

 

[mikegt4]

Pretty old thread but still worth responding to for posterity's sake.
It has been suggested that it may be a 101.03580/1/2 but those have the lockbolts for the belt tension adjustment coming in from the side, not the top. This Atlas built Craftsman DP seems to match the photos from the OP.
sorry no model # given.

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=37795

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=4&sort=4&th=false&fl=Drill Press

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Yes it is an old post but it's an interesting DP from the early Craftsman days. The OP's DP is, I believe, the first DP supplied to Sears by Atlas. Prior to this, their DP go-to was Walker Turner. This machine is unique not only for the vertical motor mount bolts, but also for the lack of a spindle cap. The pulley cover differs from later models and doesn't accept a spindle cap. This DP appears in the 35 and 36 catalogs. The spindle cap doesn't show up till 37, along with horizontal motor mount bolts. It also lacks the convex Long C logo on the left hand side. Cool machine.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Pretty old thread but still worth responding to for posterity's sake.
It has been suggested that it may be a 101.03580/1/2 but those have the lockbolts for the belt tension adjustment coming in from the side, not the top. This Atlas built Craftsman DP seems to match the photos from the OP.
sorry no model # given.

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=37795

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=4&sort=4&th=false&fl=Drill Press

Ha! I didn't realize that was my OWWM post you linked to!

 

[FrankLee]

Yes it is an old post but it's an interesting DP from the early Craftsman days. The OP's DP is, I believe, the first DP supplied to Sears by Atlas. Prior to this, their DP go-to was Walker Turner. This machine is unique not only for the vertical motor mount bolts, but also for the lack of a spindle cap. The pulley cover differs from later models and doesn't accept a spindle cap. This DP appears in the 35 and 36 catalogs. The spindle cap doesn't show up till 37, along with horizontal motor mount bolts. It also lacks the convex Long C logo on the left hand side. Cool machine.

The single spline on the spindle is another interesting feature of that early machine.


Here's an example of a 15" version (dp#35) with the four-handle hub. This was featured in the 1936 catalog.

​

One more thing about the blue paint on these Atlas machines...

IIRC, I used a Sears Easy Living spray paint for dp#35 above. I don't recall the gloss color name, but that's probably irrelevant anymore.


Below is my dp#88, a later model,. I repainted only the belt cover, hub and base. The paint I used was Rustoleum Ultra Matte in Evening Navy. It's not a perfect match, but IMO, it's the closest match to any Craftsman color in any off-the-shelf paint. The matte finish is also much nicer than gloss.

You may have noticed the three-spoke hub is not original to Craftsman branded Atlas machines. I swapped it out because the fourth knob did not match the other three.

​

 

[JoCoSawdust]

I like that Evening Navy paint Frank. The pre-war blue is a frustrating thing to match out of a can. Seeing a pretty distinct variance of shades in the nooks and crannies of these old machines leads me to believe the blue color varied just a bit over the years. I finally just picked a color and went with it (on 6 DPs as of this posting) and the more I look at them the less I like the color.

 

[FrankLee]

I like that Evening Navy paint Frank. The pre-war blue is a frustrating thing to match out of a can. Seeing a pretty distinct variance of shades in the nooks and crannies of these old machines leads me to believe the blue color varied just a bit over the years. I finally just picked a color and went with it (on 6 DPs as of this posting) and the more I look at them the less I like the color.

I agree. Picking a color you like is the way to go. Trying to match oe IS frustrating.

The head frames on those Atlas machines are usually a greasy mess. I was lucky to find that close match.