Craftsman Drill Press 103.23640

[KJ2018]

Hello all,

Have the subject drill press that I began work on. Mainly clean up so far.
Has a light grinding noise while running. I figure the bearings need replacing. Motor ok. Looks like it’s no newer that 1950, from what I’ve read, since the “panel” uses 6/32 screws and not rivets.
Feed handle is the straight rod type. 14.5in with handles.

My grandfather bought it new in the late 1940’s.

I don’t know how you determine if it’s a 150 or 100, I think they are?

Can someone point me to the correct bearings I would need, once I get it apart??

Thanks! Ken

 

[Musicinabottle]

It looks sharp. You must be bristling!

 

[notlob]

My grandfather bought it new in the late 1940’s.

Welcome to GJ!

Nice drill press - keep that gem minty for the next generation! This thread should give you all the info you need + lots more:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227480&highlight=craftsman+drill+press

 

[KJ2018]

Welcome to GJ!

Nice drill press - keep that gem minty for the next generation! This thread should give you all the info you need + lots more:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227480&highlight=craftsman+drill+press

Thanks,
I’ve seen that site before and the three bearings. Don’t know which I need? I’m still not sure which drill press this is other than 103.23640?
Distance from the pole to the center of the chuck is 6.75in and the handle diameter is .50in.
Still looking for the correct replacement bearings.
Ken

 

[FrankLee]

Hello all,

Have the subject drill press that I began work on. Mainly clean up so far.
Has a light grinding noise while running. I figure the bearings need replacing. Motor ok. Looks like it’s no newer that 1950, from what I’ve read, since the “panel” uses 6/32 screws and not rivets.
Feed handle is the straight rod type. 14.5in with handles.

My grandfather bought it new in the late 1940’s.

I don’t know how you determine if it’s a 150 or 100, I think they are?

Can someone point me to the correct bearings I would need, once I get it apart??

Thanks! Ken

Nice job on cleaning that machine!

Check the "Spotter's Guide" link in the first post in that link above for model info.

The bearings should be the same as those in the "Bearings - Part 2" link.

I always use shielded bearings in the spindle pulley and sealed bearings in the quill. I would suggest using the old bearing numbers when ordering new bearings. The quill bearings should be a 5/8" special bore.


The grinding noise could be the feed stop bracket rubbing on the threaded spindle thrust collar. Verify that the feed stop bracket is fully seated onto the quill. I can see a gap where the quill bumper should be contacting the head frame casting.


If there are any posts in my drill press thread that are confusing or unclear, please let me know.

 

[MayerMR]

if you can get it broken down you should be able to read the code on the sides of the bearings. Something like "628Z" or the like. Those numbers are pretty standardized so if you search for the number + ball bearing then you should be able to find many sources/makes. Always a good idea to take measurements with a caliper to compare to the bearing you're sourcing, but for the most part it's not a problem. You'll want to measure the outer diameter, inner diameter and the height of the bearing.

 

[KJ2018]

if you can get it broken down you should be able to read the code on the sides of the bearings. Something like "628Z" or the like. Those numbers are pretty standardized so if you search for the number + ball bearing then you should be able to find many sources/makes. Always a good idea to take measurements with a caliper to compare to the bearing you're sourcing, but for the most part it's not a problem. You'll want to measure the outer diameter, inner diameter and the height of the bearing.

Thanks for the above great tips. Hopefully, I’ll be ok when I get it disassembled. People talking about “pressing” on the new bearings has me somewhat concerned! Will see what happens......
Thanks again.....Ken.
Here in South Jersey

 

[MayerMR]

Thanks for the above great tips. Hopefully, I’ll be ok when I get it disassembled. People talking about “pressing” on the new bearings has me somewhat concerned! Will see what happens......
Thanks again.....Ken.
Here in South Jersey

Ken,

Trust me, it's not as hard as you think it is. Remember these important rules and you'll be fine.

1. Take pictures of everything *before* you take it apart
2. If something comes apart in stages (rings/washers/springs) lay them out in order and take pictures
3. Spray any/every rusty/moving part with PB Blaster/your penetrating fluid of choice a couple times a day for a couple of days before starting
4. USE THE RIGHT TOOLS - if it's a 3/16" nut and you don't have that sized socket...go buy it. If it's a #2 philips and you have a #1 screwdriver, go get the right size. Harbor Freight makes decent tools, regardless of what some people say - it'll be your friend here.
5. If something is stuck and you start getting mad. WALK AWAY for awhile. You'll only break it if you force it.
6. Clean up dirty things you are trying to take apart. More often than not, you're missing a set screw or a roll pin that was covered in grease
7. A propane or MAP torch makes things come loose.
8. If you're pulling bearings...you'll probably need a Bearing Puller - they aren't expensive at Harbor Freight.
9. If you can get your hands on a User Manual or even better, a Shop/Parts Manual with an exploded diagram then you're golden - study it.
10. Lastly, if you get stuck on something, post the question and photos on here. Someone will be able to help you.
11. Have fun with your project!

You should do a build thread for this Drill Press so you can post your progress; if you have questions you can get them all answered in the same spot and I've found that build threads tend to help keep you motivated towards finishing the project.

Good luck!

-Matt

 

[KJ2018]

Thanks Frank,
Let me ask you about that gap. What do I need to do to correct that?
As I run it up and down, the noise is about the same. The last time this ran was probably 1999 and I don’t remember if that gap was there then but it was completely quiet then.

Loosening the belt quite a bit almost eliminates the noise. Ken

 

[KJ2018]

Ken,

Trust me, it's not as hard as you think it is. Remember these important rules and you'll be fine.

1. Take pictures of everything *before* you take it apart
2. If something comes apart in stages (rings/washers/springs) lay them out in order and take pictures
3. Spray any/every rusty/moving part with PB Blaster/your penetrating fluid of choice a couple times a day for a couple of days before starting
4. USE THE RIGHT TOOLS - if it's a 3/16" nut and you don't have that sized socket...go buy it. If it's a #2 philips and you have a #1 screwdriver, go get the right size. Harbor Freight makes decent tools, regardless of what some people say - it'll be your friend here.
5. If something is stuck and you start getting mad. WALK AWAY for awhile. You'll only break it if you force it.
6. Clean up dirty things you are trying to take apart. More often than not, you're missing a set screw or a roll pin that was covered in grease
7. A propane or MAP torch makes things come loose.
8. If you're pulling bearings...you'll probably need a Bearing Puller - they aren't expensive at Harbor Freight.
9. If you can get your hands on a User Manual or even better, a Shop/Parts Manual with an exploded diagram then you're golden - study it.
10. Lastly, if you get stuck on something, post the question and photos on here. Someone will be able to help you.
11. Have fun with your project!

You should do a build thread for this Drill Press so you can post your progress; if you have questions you can get them all answered in the same spot and I've found that build threads tend to help keep you motivated towards finishing the project.

Good luck!

-Matt

Thanks Mayer,
Not sure where the “build thread” option is located.
I tried to find a “go to your posts” option, like the Antique Radio site has.
Ken

 

[KJ2018]

Ken,

Trust me, it's not as hard as you think it is. Remember these important rules and you'll be fine.

1. Take pictures of everything *before* you take it apart
2. If something comes apart in stages (rings/washers/springs) lay them out in order and take pictures
3. Spray any/every rusty/moving part with PB Blaster/your penetrating fluid of choice a couple times a day for a couple of days before starting
4. USE THE RIGHT TOOLS - if it's a 3/16" nut and you don't have that sized socket...go buy it. If it's a #2 philips and you have a #1 screwdriver, go get the right size. Harbor Freight makes decent tools, regardless of what some people say - it'll be your friend here.
5. If something is stuck and you start getting mad. WALK AWAY for awhile. You'll only break it if you force it.
6. Clean up dirty things you are trying to take apart. More often than not, you're missing a set screw or a roll pin that was covered in grease
7. A propane or MAP torch makes things come loose.
8. If you're pulling bearings...you'll probably need a Bearing Puller - they aren't expensive at Harbor Freight.
9. If you can get your hands on a User Manual or even better, a Shop/Parts Manual with an exploded diagram then you're golden - study it.
10. Lastly, if you get stuck on something, post the question and photos on here. Someone will be able to help you.
11. Have fun with your project!

You should do a build thread for this Drill Press so you can post your progress; if you have questions you can get them all answered in the same spot and I've found that build threads tend to help keep you motivated towards finishing the project.

Good luck!

-Matt

Thanks Mayer,
Not sure where the “build thread” option is located.
I tried to find a “go to your posts” option, like the Antique Radio site has.
Ken

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank,
Let me ask you about that gap. What do I need to do to correct that?

1. lower and lock the quill
2. loosen the nut at the bottom of the feed stop rod
3. loosen the nut/bolt on the feed stop bracket
4. push up the bracket onto the quill until fully seated
5. re-tighten nuts and bolt
6. unlock quill

If the noise changes with belt tension, the problem is likely elsewhere.

 

[MayerMR]

Thanks Mayer,
Not sure where the “build thread” option is located.
I tried to find a “go to your posts” option, like the Antique Radio site has.
Ken

Oh a build thread is just starting a thread (like you did with this one) with the intent of showing your progress during the restoration. You could make the thread your build thread. Just start posting photos and showing your progress!

 

[KJ2018]

1. lower and lock the quill
2. loosen the nut at the bottom of the feed stop rod
3. loosen the nut/bolt on the feed stop bracket
4. push up the bracket onto the quill until fully seated
5. re-tighten nuts and bolt
6. unlock quill

If the noise changes with belt tension, the problem is likely elsewhere.

Thanks Frank, I’ll try that.
I wanted to tell you that I went to the area of this site that has all the old Craftsman tool catalogs by year.
I saw this drill press for about $69.00 or so and it looks like that “gap” is there so I don’t know what the deal is.

The year I looked at was 1949 or 50 and it was on page 20 or so along with two others.
Said it had “four” bearings which surprised the heck out of me. Thought theses had just two??
Model 100 it looks like......Ken

 

[KJ2018]

1. lower and lock the quill
2. loosen the nut at the bottom of the feed stop rod
3. loosen the nut/bolt on the feed stop bracket
4. push up the bracket onto the quill until fully seated
5. re-tighten nuts and bolt
6. unlock quill

If the noise changes with belt tension, the problem is likely elsewhere.

Thanks Frank, I’ll try that.

I wanted to tell you that I went to the area of this site that has all the old Craftsman tool catalogs by year.
I saw this drill press for about $69.00 or so and it looks like that “gap” is there so I don’t know what the deal is.

The year I looked at was 1949 or 50 and it was on page 20 or so along with two others.
Said it had “four” bearings which surprised the heck out of me. Thought theses had just two??
Model 100 it looks like......Ken

 

[KJ2018]

Hi all,
Still working on the subject dp and have a few questions.
Got it all disassembled for cleaning and found a few things:

1. Part no. 18428, Thrust Collar doesn’t seem to be there. I see threads but no collar? Should it be there? Actually, I never remember it being there. Is there one available??

2. Part number 18417, Quill Gasket is broken. Always wondered why it was flopping around in there. Not tight against anything! Broke in half anyway. Still available??

Thanks and see my two fabulous IPAD photos!! Ken

 

[FrankLee]

Hi all,
Still working on the subject dp and have a few questions.
Got it all disassembled for cleaning and found a few things:

1. Part no. 18428, Thrust Collar doesn’t seem to be there. I see threads but no collar? Should it be there? Actually, I never remember it being there. Is there one available??

2. Part number 18417, Quill Gasket is broken. Always wondered why it was flopping around in there. Not tight against anything! Broke in half anyway. Still available??

Thanks and see my two fabulous IPAD photos!! Ken

1. Yes, it should be there, but it's not critical. It's used to protect the threads for other spindle accessories and to force the chuck off the spindle.

I do have one spare thrust collar nut available, but before you have to buy anything, verify that the chuck operates well and the bit surfaces on the chuck jaws are good.

Machines manufactured starting in 1952 were equipped with a Jacobs chuck with the safety thrust collar nut attached. If you need a new chuck, look for one with a safety collar.

2. Nearly all quill gaskets are fubar. I can hook you up there too with a new set of O-rings.


That original paint looks excellent!

 

[KJ2018]

Thanks for the quick response Frank!
Yes, it’s in good shape since it’s always been in our family along with the Craftsman Band Saw and Sabre Saw. Both floor models.
I only disassembled it to clean and re-lube it.

All I’m missing is the collar and that big flat gasket (18417) that was laying on the top of the chuck......that I broke while cleaning it! If you think I need o-rings too, I’ll set them aside for later maybe?
Those two deeply recessed screws at the top, that I believe hold in the pulley bearings, came out like they were put in yesterday. All bearings are tight and free.

FYI.....chuck is a Jacobs 6A, 33 Taper, F05, Cap 0-1/2. At least that’s what’s on it. In really good shape. See Photo.

I suspect either my father or grandfather, who bought these tools new, removed the chuck and forgot to put the collar back on. Will never know.

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks for the quick response Frank!
Yes, it’s in good shape since it’s always been in our family along with the Craftsman Band Saw and Sabre Saw. Both floor models.
I only disassembled it to clean and re-lube it.

All I’m missing is the collar and that big flat gasket (18417) that was laying on the top of the chuck......that I broke while cleaning it! If you think I need o-rings too, I’ll set them aside for later maybe?
Those two deeply recessed screws at the top, that I believe hold in the pulley bearings, came out like they were put in yesterday. All bearings are tight and free.

FYI.....chuck is a Jacobs 6A, 33 Taper, F05, Cap 0-1/2. At least that’s what’s on it. In really good shape. See Photo.

I suspect either my father or grandfather, who bought these tools new, removed the chuck and forgot to put the collar back on. Will never know.

Ok. It's not absolutely necessary to remove the chuck and install the thrust nut, but if you want to, you'll likely need a couple Jacobs wedges to remove it.

If you'd like the nut, send me a pm.

 

[FrankLee]

Hello again folks,
Still working on my dp here and finally got the chuck off the shaft.
See the photo on my makeshift method!



Have a question at this point in the overhaul.
1. Just what color is this gray considered now days? I see a rustoleum machine gray is popular. Is that gloss, flat, dark or light?

2. Bodypaint is in pretty good shape but the base and table need paint. Was thinking of taking that table connector over to Home Depot get a match?

Also, FYI>>>in the “old radio restoration” world we use “Scrubbing Bubbles” and Eagle One “Never Dull” (automotive store) to clean and polish tuners, chassis and so on. I’m finding they work great on the handles and other “bright” stuff for this dp I’m working on.

Least but certainly not last.....a HUGE thank you to Frank for his tremendous work posting all those items on the dp’s. What a resource! Especially that latest one on the “spring winding”.

You're very welcome!

Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray is high gloss.

I'm not sure if an off-the-shelf color will match very good, but I haven't tried many. I do recall where someone went to Sherwin-Williams to get a custom match and think it was a standard quart can, not spray.

There is some paint matching info on VM's wiki page, but don't think I saw a gray suggestion. http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/PaintColorsCraftsman.ashx

Nevr-Dull is a great idea, especially when the chrome is decent.