Outlawmws
Well-known member
If the quill pulley is moving, something on the splined shaft is stuck...
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Dp#17
3/17/2016
I picked up my next project today... drill press #17. This is an Atlas #1465. It is a slo-speed drill press with a #2 taper spindle. The model number indicates that it left the factory as part of a three-spindle production table. It has a belt cover and a home-made table which was attached to the original mounting base. I don't recognize the new base... anyone know? The best thing is the head frame lift. The largest step of the spindle pulley is 8"!
3/19/2016
The Atlas in pieces...
4/1/2016
Lift parts cleaned, prep'd, primed, and painted.
4/21/2016
I finally reassembled the Head Positioning Mechanism..
3/24/2016
#9 is the spindle and #5 is the quill. They are attached together with a set of bearings and slide as a unit when lowering the chuck. If your spindle pulley at the top is moving an inch vertically, something is amiss.
If a model 80 with spindle pulley ball bearings, or a model 100 or 150, refer to post #116.
First, verify that the machine screws #58 are in place.
Next, verify that the inner snap ring #4 and the outer snap ring #5 are in place.
Then, make sure the splines on the spindle are well lubricated.
If a model 80 with sleeve headstock bushing, the pulley set screw may be loose.
If the spindle is moving relative to the quill, the set-screw on spindle collar is likely loose.
The issue could also be caused by the feed stop bracket not fully seated on the quill.
What is your model number? Pictures or even a video of your issue would also help.
3/17/2016
I picked up my next project today... drill press #17. This is an Atlas #1465. It is a slo-speed drill press with a #2 taper spindle. The model number indicates that it left the factory as part of a three-spindle production table. It has a belt cover and a home-made table which was attached to the original mounting base. I don't recognize the new base... anyone know? The best thing is the head frame lift. The largest step of the spindle pulley is 8"!
3/19/2016
The Atlas in pieces...
4/1/2016
Lift parts cleaned, prep'd, primed, and painted.
4/21/2016
I finally reassembled the Head Positioning Mechanism..
3/24/2016
#9 is the spindle and #5 is the quill. They are attached together with a set of bearings and slide as a unit when lowering the chuck. If your spindle pulley at the top is moving an inch vertically, something is amiss.
If a model 80 with spindle pulley ball bearings, or a model 100 or 150, refer to post #116.
First, verify that the machine screws #58 are in place.
Next, verify that the inner snap ring #4 and the outer snap ring #5 are in place.
Then, make sure the splines on the spindle are well lubricated.
If a model 80 with sleeve headstock bushing, the pulley set screw may be loose.
If the spindle is moving relative to the quill, the set-screw on spindle collar is likely loose.
The issue could also be caused by the feed stop bracket not fully seated on the quill.
What is your model number? Pictures or even a video of your issue would also help.
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ShadowRuleZ
Well-known member
It's an early Model 80 with the 1 7/8 shaft. I think I understand what you're saying and those pictures help. I'll have to try pulling it apart and get a closer look at everything, it's good to know that there is something wrong.
This question is for Frank Lee or any one else that may have encountered this problem.
I have a Model 100 Heritage Logo and I made a center pulley setup for variable speeds recently for it. The front pulley sits too low to line up with the center pole pulley, I can't even use a standard 1/2" belt with just the motor and spindle pulley because the front pulley sits so low. I have the head off and I'm about to tear in to it again but wanted to know if anyone else has encountered this issue and how they corrected it.
I have a Model 100 Heritage Logo and I made a center pulley setup for variable speeds recently for it. The front pulley sits too low to line up with the center pole pulley, I can't even use a standard 1/2" belt with just the motor and spindle pulley because the front pulley sits so low. I have the head off and I'm about to tear in to it again but wanted to know if anyone else has encountered this issue and how they corrected it.
Glad you got it figured out.
It also looks like your spindle is too high. Check the feed stop bracket to verify that it is fully seated onto the quill. See post #130.
Thanks Frank, I'll check it when I get it back together. Here she sits now. Check out my Projects thread if you get a chance, I just made center pulley adapters for this and an Atlas drill press in the last couple pages.
FrankLee,
As another humble contribution to this excellent thread, here is a cutesy method for spray painting a head casting all in one go. Just mask off a solid (not hinged) motor mount base and stand the head on it. You can spray all surfaces from this position.
As another humble contribution to this excellent thread, here is a cutesy method for spray painting a head casting all in one go. Just mask off a solid (not hinged) motor mount base and stand the head on it. You can spray all surfaces from this position.
FrankLee,
As another humble contribution to this excellent thread, here is a cutesy method for spray painting a head casting all in one go. Just mask off a solid (not hinged) motor mount base and stand the head on it. You can spray all surfaces from this position.
Now that is a good idea!
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Jolomite
Well-known member
That is a slick idea. Also, I like the file handles visible behind the DP. What are they made from? Old flatware handles or just spare acrylic stock?
Some scrap parts from work... high-temp plastic (more like polycarb), molded 1/2" diameter rods complete with shrink void bubbles that are the perfect shape to accept a file tang.
I had the unique opportunity to inspect 3 different Craftsman head castings, and realized an interesting difference in the supports for the quill. Not sure if it has been noted before:
Casting 27222-130 from a Craftsman 150, approx 1965 based on the motor that came with it, note two supports (with the gear between them):
Casting 27217-103 from a Craftsman 100, date unknown. Supports are the same as the Craftsman 150:
Casting 27215-103 from my Craftsman 100, a 1951 based on the original motor that it came with. Note there are THREE supports for the quill:
The extra support it located about an inch up from the other two. It seems like somewhere mid 1950's in the Craftsman 100 series this top support was removed.
Casting 27222-130 from a Craftsman 150, approx 1965 based on the motor that came with it, note two supports (with the gear between them):
Casting 27217-103 from a Craftsman 100, date unknown. Supports are the same as the Craftsman 150:
Casting 27215-103 from my Craftsman 100, a 1951 based on the original motor that it came with. Note there are THREE supports for the quill:
The extra support it located about an inch up from the other two. It seems like somewhere mid 1950's in the Craftsman 100 series this top support was removed.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
My 100 has the three supports. (mine is late 40's - 48 by the motor) and my 80 has 2 supports (to be expected).
Interesting. I would say the 100 head is more rigid in the quill area at least.
Zig, any differences in the post area or the motor mount bosses?
Interesting. I would say the 100 head is more rigid in the quill area at least.
Zig, any differences in the post area or the motor mount bosses?
I had the unique opportunity to inspect 3 different Craftsman head castings, and realized an interesting difference in the supports for the quill. Not sure if it has been noted before:
Casting 27222-130 from a Craftsman 150, approx 1965 based on the motor that came with it, note two supports (with the gear between them)
Casting 27217-103 from a Craftsman 100, date unknown. Supports are the same as the Craftsman 150
Casting 27215-103 from my Craftsman 100, a 1951 based on the original motor that it came with. Note there are THREE supports for the quill
The extra support it located about an inch up from the other two. It seems like somewhere mid 1950's in the Craftsman 100 series this top support was removed.
Thanks, JZ. My head frames are consistent with your findings. I have three 100 HFs, all 21217's and one 150 HF, a 27217, which is the same as your 27222.
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bubinga
Well-known member
im making a center pulley if I ever get off my ****.
Did you guys see Franks Screwdriver handle for the feed levers on one of his Drill presses?
Did you guys see Franks Screwdriver handle for the feed levers on one of his Drill presses?
Warped5
Well-known member
bubinga
Well-known member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
nice
nice
Yup! Used them on mine:
Ditto!
3/30/2016
I brought home dp#18 today... this little 12¼" Craftsman model 103.23100. The seller also had a 3-wheel band saw, model 103.24300. For the price, I couldn't turn them down. Both are very dirty, but the motors are solid.
Check-out this wild slow-speed set-up! It's somewhat crude, but it works. That large pulley is 10". At it's slowest, the chuck turns at about 100 rpm.
The deal also included these vises. I can't quite make out the maker of the hand vise. There are no markings on the DP vise.
4/1/2016
The vise needed attention, so I had to drill-out the guide-rod pins to get it apart.
4/2/2016
The vise... cleaned-up, fresh paint, new tension pins. Done.
4/10/2016
Today's find... a Craftsman "100", 10" table saw, model 113.27610. No table extensions, but the fence, miter guide, and blade guard are all in good condition. The huge Craftsman 1 HP repulsion induction motor weighs in at 43 pounds alone!
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softailgarage
Well-known member
franklee,
as another humble contribution to this excellent thread, here is a cutesy method for spray painting a head casting all in one go. Just mask off a solid (not hinged) motor mount base and stand the head on it. You can spray all surfaces from this position.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Mauser, and usuck...
zeet
Well-known member
Great scores, FrankLee... That reduction arrangement makes me smile. It strikes me as a clever solution to a need using the materials at hand.
I just finished and sold this very set of tools... Actually hated to see the bandsaw go, but hey, you can't keep 'em all!
I just finished and sold this very set of tools... Actually hated to see the bandsaw go, but hey, you can't keep 'em all!
Rebelhunter91
New member
Hello, I'm new to the thread and I'm in need of some parts and advice, and I do apologize if this is the wrong thread to post this to. However I'm in the process of restoring several of my grandfathers tools he left to me craftsman 10" tilting table saw model #113.27520, I pretty much have everything but the blade guard, one handle for the blade height adjustment knob, and the metal cover that goes over the blade, if anyone knows where to get these items I'd sure preciate it. I also have a craftsman 6" jointer model # 103.23320. And finally a craftsman drill press I'm not sure of the exact model # as I'm at work right now but the motor is model # 115.6961 type CKBK11 and there's a C4 48 at the bottom of the tag. I'm pretty sure this is the motor that he purchased with the drill I know there were 3 or so different options. Color I want all these to be the color the day he picked them up, can anyone give which specific paints I need? And maybe where to get them? I noticed cleaning the motor for the drill press that the stamped letters on the bearing covers where colored red and the covers appeared to be painted black. Is this correct for the period of the motor? And if anyone can help the 1/3 hp motor for the drill press needs the center shaft forgive my lack of terminology I can take it apart and put it back together but couldn't tell you the name of the part lol, one bearing I guess was locked up but it wore down so the bearing won't seat and has a good bit of play on the shaft up and down can I somehow weld a space where the bearing seats or do I need to try to find a replacement? And what colors should all these machines be? Any pictures would greatly be appreciated. Thanks for any and all help btw I live in Columbus, Ga.
Craftsman "80" Drill Press - 103.23100
4/8/2016
This is the 12-1/4" Craftsman "80" drill press 103.23100 I mentioned above. It was manufactured sometime before 1950 when this model was rebadged to Dunlap. It is equipped with three porous bronze bearings and one thrust bearing. It also has a keyless chuck.
4/8/2016
This is the 12-1/4" Craftsman "80" drill press 103.23100 I mentioned above. It was manufactured sometime before 1950 when this model was rebadged to Dunlap. It is equipped with three porous bronze bearings and one thrust bearing. It also has a keyless chuck.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
GREAT instruction set Frank!
deepblue100
Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2016
- Messages
- 5
I love this vintage tools so much. Good old times... before all these **** tools from china.
DP#19, BS#3, Dunlap Grinder
5/4/2016
I'm really enjoying all the new Craftsman drill press threads lately. There seemed to be a lull for a while.
I picked up this Craftsman/Dunlap trio recently... a Craftsman 100 drill press (dp#19), model 103.23140, a 12" band saw (#3), model 103.24300, and a Dunlap grinder, model 115.7395.
5/5/2016
I already made a custom knob for the V-S.
I also sold the band saw today.
5/7/2016
I sold the planer today.
5/14/2016
Dp#19 is done and ready to go.
5/4/2016
I'm really enjoying all the new Craftsman drill press threads lately. There seemed to be a lull for a while.
I picked up this Craftsman/Dunlap trio recently... a Craftsman 100 drill press (dp#19), model 103.23140, a 12" band saw (#3), model 103.24300, and a Dunlap grinder, model 115.7395.
5/5/2016
I already made a custom knob for the V-S.
I also sold the band saw today.
5/7/2016
I sold the planer today.
5/14/2016
Dp#19 is done and ready to go.
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Dunlap Grinder 115.7395
5/5/2016
The Dunlap grinder will be overhauled.
This grinder is virtually identical to a Dunlap split phase motor; the differences being the threaded rotor shaft and stone guards.
The grinder stand had a very nice work lamp. It has a cast aluminum shade and a multi-mount cast iron base. I can't make out the manufacturer. Anyone recognize this label? I can see "Michigan" across the bottom.
5/6/2016
I had to pull the end cap/guard/flange off the fan end as one unit with a puller.
Next, with a very slim screwdriver, I removed the four screws from behind the flange on the terminal end. Yeah... a little tricky, but the screws were not very tight.
Then, I pulled just the guard/flange off the rotor together from the terminal end with a puller. I was very leery about pulling from the outside edge of the guard, but it worked.
5/10/2016
The larger grinder parts are painted and the wiring was repaired.
05/11/2016
Cleaning Bearings
Here are the bearings from the grinder. These pictures were taken AFTER soaking in mineral spirits for a few days and sprayed down with brake cleaner. They still don't look very clean.
I looked around for a small ultrasonic cleaner and found this unused one on craiglist. It's pretty small... made for dentures, etc., but it has the same 42k Hz frequency as larger models, it was cheap, and it holds bearings perfectly.
I ran two 5-minute cleaning cycles with 50% simple green, 50% hot water, and one rinse cycle. The used cleaning solution was really dirty!
To say I'm impressed with the results is an understatement! I think bearings are replaced too often when a good cleaning is all they need.
With the bearings clean, the grinder is ready to be re-assembled.
5/14/2016
I made good progress on the grinder. Eye shields and tool rests to do yet.
5/29/2016
I finally got the grinder back together. The stones have a 1" bore and the cheap plastics spacers on the left side made the stone horribly out of balance. So, that one is not going back on. It runs great otherwise and spin-down time is amazingly long.
5/5/2016
The Dunlap grinder will be overhauled.
This grinder is virtually identical to a Dunlap split phase motor; the differences being the threaded rotor shaft and stone guards.
The grinder stand had a very nice work lamp. It has a cast aluminum shade and a multi-mount cast iron base. I can't make out the manufacturer. Anyone recognize this label? I can see "Michigan" across the bottom.
5/6/2016
I had to pull the end cap/guard/flange off the fan end as one unit with a puller.
Next, with a very slim screwdriver, I removed the four screws from behind the flange on the terminal end. Yeah... a little tricky, but the screws were not very tight.
Then, I pulled just the guard/flange off the rotor together from the terminal end with a puller. I was very leery about pulling from the outside edge of the guard, but it worked.
5/10/2016
The larger grinder parts are painted and the wiring was repaired.
05/11/2016
Cleaning Bearings
Here are the bearings from the grinder. These pictures were taken AFTER soaking in mineral spirits for a few days and sprayed down with brake cleaner. They still don't look very clean.
I looked around for a small ultrasonic cleaner and found this unused one on craiglist. It's pretty small... made for dentures, etc., but it has the same 42k Hz frequency as larger models, it was cheap, and it holds bearings perfectly.
I ran two 5-minute cleaning cycles with 50% simple green, 50% hot water, and one rinse cycle. The used cleaning solution was really dirty!
To say I'm impressed with the results is an understatement! I think bearings are replaced too often when a good cleaning is all they need.
With the bearings clean, the grinder is ready to be re-assembled.
5/14/2016
I made good progress on the grinder. Eye shields and tool rests to do yet.
5/29/2016
I finally got the grinder back together. The stones have a 1" bore and the cheap plastics spacers on the left side made the stone horribly out of balance. So, that one is not going back on. It runs great otherwise and spin-down time is amazingly long.
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Eberhardt-Denver Geared Speed Reducer
......
6/3/2016
I bought this very nice Eberhardt-Denver gear reducer from an estate sale today. It has 1/2" input and output shafts and has a 9.66:1 reduction. I don't think it can be oriented any other way, or I'd try to fit it on a drill press. It would be really nice for reducing speed on a band saw though.
It is dirty, and may need a couple seals, but will clean-up nicely. Inside, the gears and bearings appear to be in great condition.
E-D was bought out by Morse Products in 1956 and later became a partner of Regal PTS.
6/9/2016
Parts are cleaned.
8/30/2016
I finally got the E-D speed reducer back together with new seals and new hex socket screws and liquid gasket. I wasn't sure about what oil to use, but I found that other guys were using compressor oil in other reducers. One quart of comp oil was pretty inexpensive at HF.
......
6/3/2016
I bought this very nice Eberhardt-Denver gear reducer from an estate sale today. It has 1/2" input and output shafts and has a 9.66:1 reduction. I don't think it can be oriented any other way, or I'd try to fit it on a drill press. It would be really nice for reducing speed on a band saw though.
It is dirty, and may need a couple seals, but will clean-up nicely. Inside, the gears and bearings appear to be in great condition.
E-D was bought out by Morse Products in 1956 and later became a partner of Regal PTS.
6/9/2016
Parts are cleaned.
8/30/2016
I finally got the E-D speed reducer back together with new seals and new hex socket screws and liquid gasket. I wasn't sure about what oil to use, but I found that other guys were using compressor oil in other reducers. One quart of comp oil was pretty inexpensive at HF.
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Kapn.K
Member
I hope it's o.k. to share these on this thread. It was gifted to me from a close friend. I think it's a 100 from reading this thread. Model 103.23131. Fairly complete. Motor is quiet enough. I only disassembled, inspected, cleaned, and painted. It only had 1 of the quill handles but the threads were snapped off. I used a rustoleum hammered copper paint. The action is quite nice on everything. My dad has a shop-smith mk3 or 4 that he bought new and said I could have. Sometimes you just want a small drill press, though. This might even be my first post. Jack's 12G garage is how I found this place.
So it appears imgur has started some stupid practices and I need to find another hosting site. You can still right-click and open but this pic share has taken entirely too much of my time this morning. I'm mean we're supposed to have flying cars by now! I'll fix it later.
So it appears imgur has started some stupid practices and I need to find another hosting site. You can still right-click and open but this pic share has taken entirely too much of my time this morning. I'm mean we're supposed to have flying cars by now! I'll fix it later.
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Tunajoe
Well-known member
I just want to say "thanks" FrankLee for taking the time to document all the restoration steps for these old tools (Craftsman drill presses is particular)
No problem at all posting your machine here.
It looks like you're struggling trying to add pictures. IMGUR is not GJ friendly. You may need to find another hosting site unless someone else has a solution.
I really like Flickr for picture hosting.
Home Made Feed Handles
Regarding feed handles... it's not too difficult to make them yourself for about $20.
- stubby screwdriver handles (you could also use a traditional black round knob) - eBay
- 1/2" stainless steel tubing - Amazon
- 3/8" threaded rod - Home Depot
- 3/8" stainless steel nuts - Home Depot
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Kapn.K
Member
Do you know what kind of wood was used on the original handles? Is the wood ball screwed onto the shaft or an interference fit? I've got a wood lathe and might tackle it. I have a tig welder and have some friends that are machinists. I have a lot of options. I like your screwdriver handles but I think the wood ones are just so classic and reminiscent of times past. I did start a flickr account and got my pics right on the previous post. I'm a career I.T. enterprise administrator and was feeling like Ahab earlier while trying to get the pix worked out. I didn't feel like troubleshooting and learning a new hosting site just to share my drill but I did...Thanks for this thread and all the info you have acquired and shared!
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