Craftsman Drill Press

[endangeredspecies]

I wasn't going to rebuild the chuck. But then I saw all the threads showing how to do it, and people recommending to do so. And looked inside mine to see all the corrosion and filth.
The release nut is just a hair too big for my press, and I don't have the right tubing on hand. I managed to get the sleeve off by clamping a socket in the jaws and using the gear puller. But then I couldn't get the jaws apart to remove the socket. So I put it back together.
2" DOM tubing due in about a week and a half...

 

[FrankLee]

Here's the "official" instructions.

http://www.jacobschuck.com/uploads/ueditor/file/20200604/1591240255333432.pdf

 

[FrankLee]

Bearing Installation Using the Freeze/Heat Technique

This morning, I finished the refurb of the K-C motor that came with my Atlas Power King jointer. The motor had been previously repainted. It didn't look too bad, so I just cleaned it up and installed new bearings and a new cord.

I use the freeze/heat technique quite often for motors and drill press spindles. I'm not sure if it's been documented anywhere, so here is how I do it.

​

The new bearings on went on this far without using force.

​

The night before, I wrap the rotor (or spindle) in a towel and place it in the freezer.

​

When it's time to install the bearing, I place it on this light fixture I put together. Five minutes is good.

​

I pull the rotor out of the freezer, wipe off the frost and quickly slide on the bearing. The bearing cools quickly and clamps onto the shaft. Usually it is tight enough to hold up the rotor by the bearing (although, I don't recommend it).

​

This technique is very effective, but all bearings and bearing shafts are different. YMMV

 

[endangeredspecies]

I’ll probably pop it out one more time to grease it up, but spindle is installed in the quill:

https://imgur.com/a/rGpEwSi

https://imgur.com/a/gOThk0Y

Thought about what worked and what didn’t. Disassembled chuck with the gear puller. Seen here soaking in the Simple Green bath:

https://imgur.com/a/3O2h6n0

Nuts came in. Cut and installed motor tie rod:

https://imgur.com/a/gTS1QU8

Removed motor mount to work on rust removal, and thoroughly clean the headstock:

https://imgur.com/a/d0N0YeU

So many little pieces!
Really glad I bought bearings, belt and hardware 2 years ago when I disassembled the press for storage. Had no idea how much more I'd need - either because I overlooked it, wasn't planning to R&R that part, didn't know it existed, or damaged it at disassembly. But it's coming along!

 

[FrankLee]

it's coming along!

Yes, excellent progress!

Removed motor mount to work on rust removal,

Those motor mount rods will come out with a larger punch. The ends are splined and they are pressed into the plate.

I’ll probably pop it out one more time to grease it up, but spindle is installed in the quill:

You shouldn't need to grease the spindle until installing the assembly into the head casting. And then, only splines get greased (along with the quill and gear rack).

 

[Vinny]

Here's one for the YIKES department.
I asked the seller if the price was correct, it is.
Outrageous.

Looks like we're shopping in the same area! You'll be happy to know they chopped the price in half and only want $1000 for it. Or best offer...

 

[Vinny]

Actually, assuming that drill press I posted above is in perfect, like new, running condition, what would be a good offer?

 

[FrankLee]

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The seller says it was refurbished ten years ago, but doesn't say if bearings were replaced, only that is was lubricated where needed. The repaint is not terrible.

It looks like there are quite a few Craftsman drill presses on fbmp out that way and with a very wide range of prices.

$300 ? Maybe that's high, I dunno. My refurb standards are very high. It really depends on more refurb details and local comps.

 

[endangeredspecies]

My Craftsman 100 Saga continues.
I addressed rust on the column August 2024 with vinegar, lemon juice, and a lot of scotch-brite before re-assembilng to the base, table and head. Sealed it with paste caranuba car wax.

Before:

https://imgur.com/a/wU2B11F

After:

https://imgur.com/a/kcEebp6

This is how it looks today:

https://imgur.com/a/8LTX5Pk

I found the Naval Jelly and Brasso, so I think I'll clean it up again this weekend.

As ever, when I re-assembled it last year, I didn't think I was going to clean inside the head or under the table. Then I started looking at refurb posts. Then I looked at my equipment. So I blasted it.

Head Before:

https://imgur.com/a/hYqtDLn

https://imgur.com/a/h4eetn1

https://imgur.com/a/F2ar9Ua

https://imgur.com/a/ptaqE3A

Gross!

Head After:

https://imgur.com/a/wIhb4u6

(Link to cleaned-up underside keeps failing. But, trust me, it looks much better. A few dark marks left, but much like the top.)

I still need to go over it in fine detail, and de-rust the un-painted areas. But MUCH better.
Plus, I was going over the "what to lubricate" list and cross-checking against parts list.
I could net recall removing the Outer Snap Ring at the top of the Quill / bottom of Spindle Pulley. Turns out it's still inside the head!

 

[endangeredspecies]

I cleaned off the table top the other day. But, since I removed it to separate the column, though I'd lake a look at the bottom and sides, too.
Gotta take a dremel to the grease/wax/white goop. And seal the tabletop. Other than that, big improvement.

Before:

https://imgur.com/a/MaZnZIa

https://imgur.com/a/pXn5sKV

After:

https://imgur.com/a/qt02LV6

https://imgur.com/a/VHPjSnP

 

[endangeredspecies]

Somehow, I didn't get a before pic of the top of the base. Which is too bad. It was black, sticky, and nasty.
Bottom looks nearly pristine, somehow. (Pallet?) I've de-greased, blasted, polished and waxed the top of the base. It isn't perfect, but paint just isn't part of the scope for this project. In person, it actually looks quite good now.

Before:

https://imgur.com/a/W7sqwWA

After:

https://imgur.com/a/yobOi45

https://imgur.com/a/mdAngtE

 

[endangeredspecies]

I'm still waiting on delivery of scotch-brite pads and anti-sieze, but they aren't due until 9/16 and 10/11! Not sure I can wait that long to put it all back together. May need to run to the automotive supply house this weekend for supplies. I'm also out of simple green, and may need some ZEP Purple to neutralize the Naval Jelly.
I THINK I have the rest of what I need. Except Time. Never seem to have enough of that.

 

[FrankLee]

Looking good!

I could net recall removing the Outer Snap Ring at the top of the Quill / bottom of Spindle Pulley. Turns out it's still inside the head!

That's usually the last piece removed and the first installed. Several times, I forgot to install it until ti was time to install the pulley.
Many times, that snap ring can be a pita to install.

Bottom looks nearly pristine, somehow. (

That is very typical.

 

[Outlawmws]

IMO paint cleanup should start with Greazoff. Most paints aren't affected.

Learned that from Frank in this thread. many times that was all that was needed. I used to use SG but you have to be careful with SG as its a decent paint stripper given much time. Craftsman paint seems pretty durable, the green paint in particular that Coleman used on camp stoves wipes away immediately with SG.

 

[endangeredspecies]

I do have greazoff spray. I used it on the head, but didn’t bother with the base. It it worth stripping off the wax and trying it now?

Since it’s last off and first on, can I just leave the snap ring in place?
Does it do anything? Or is it just a depth stop for the pulley?

 

[FrankLee]

It it worth stripping off the wax and trying it now?

Grez-Off will strip the wax. You could try a small area and see if it makes a difference.

IME, for cleaning to preserve original paint, Grez-Off is better than Purple Power, which is better than Simple Green. I haven’t tried anything else. A while back, after Grez-Off was getting more expensive, I tried PP. I wasn't happy with PP, so I went over it again with GO. GO cleaned up what PP didn't. I never looked back.

You can’t leave any of these products on too long though… spray, scrub, rinse, dry and wax.

Since it’s last off and first on, can I just leave the snap ring in place?

Yes

Does it do anything?

Yes

Or is it just a depth stop for the pulley?

Yes

 

[endangeredspecies]

Tidied up the column with Naval Jelly, Zep 505, Brasso, Simple Green, 105 Ultra Cut, 205 Ultra Polish, Flitz, Acetone, and Hybrid Ceramic wax applied with 180, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1500, 2000, White Scotch-Brite , and microfiber.

https://imgur.com/a/3YXAre2

 

[endangeredspecies]

Painted parts (Base, Table and Head) post pressure-washing, I went back over with Grez-Off, 91% Isopropyl alcohol, and a dremel brush as needed. Finished up with SiO2 hybrid-ceramic auto wax.
Put a little anti-sieze on the colum bore in the base, and the wedge which holds them together.
Extra hybrid wax on the table column bore.
A little grease on the head bores, to help it slide onto the column.
Grease on the table and head locks, with oil on their threads.
Tried drift and press, couldn't separate splined posts from motor mount base. Just cleaned them up a little.
Should have replaced motor mount securing bolts - they both felt a little bent going back in. But I think it's okay for now.
Waxed up the handles, and all the exposed exterior surfaces (so far.)

Every time I think reassembly will go quickly, I discover something which: I overlooked, forgot about, or put off until later. But it's coming along.
I have a bunch of cleaned parts ready to reassemble. Still need to work on the chuck - but it's been soaking for days, and "should be pretty quick."

https://imgur.com/a/yzJkr9s

https://imgur.com/a/2P2h19B

https://imgur.com/a/w65FpLH

https://imgur.com/a/2FdrdLH

https://imgur.com/a/Z3iuqDt

https://imgur.com/a/04p4PCl

https://imgur.com/a/rKKQvb4

https://imgur.com/a/e61SL3O

 

[endangeredspecies]

Should have replaced motor mount securing bolts - they both felt a little bent going back in. But I think it's okay for now.

Not okay. I thought I felt one break when I tightened it.
I had to run an errand this morning, so picked up replacement bolts in both Stainless and Grade8.
Took one of the oldies out. Applied green threadlocker. Back in. Good.
Other one, head sheared right off.

https://imgur.com/a/l86x5Gq

Found my #1 EZ-Out. Need to see if I can track down the 9/64 left-hand bit.
I do have an off-brand set of double-ended extractors, but I've had limited success with them to date.
The fun - it continues.
Looks like I'll want to use the Grade8, over the SS, when threading into cast iron. I'm learning so much.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Painted parts (Base, Table and Head) post pressure-washing, I went back over with Grez-Off, 91% Isopropyl alcohol, and a dremel brush as needed. Finished up with SiO2 hybrid-ceramic auto wax.
Put a little anti-sieze on the colum bore in the base, and the wedge which holds them together.
Extra hybrid wax on the table column bore.
A little grease on the head bores, to help it slide onto the column.
Grease on the table and head locks, with oil on their threads.
Tried drift and press, couldn't separate splined posts from motor mount base. Just cleaned them up a little.
Should have replaced motor mount securing bolts - they both felt a little bent going back in. But I think it's okay for now.
Waxed up the handles, and all the exposed exterior surfaces (so far.)

Every time I think reassembly will go quickly, I discover something which: I overlooked, forgot about, or put off until later. But it's coming along.
I have a bunch of cleaned parts ready to reassemble. Still need to work on the chuck - but it's been soaking for days, and "should be pretty quick."

Links are being weird. Do they work now?
These are supposed to be the head, and the completed progress to date.

https://imgur.com/a/KpXDpUb

https://imgur.com/a/JzrhHxS

https://imgur.com/a/BjpGzbw

 

[FrankLee]

Took one of the oldies out. Applied green threadlocker. Back in. Good.

Uh oh. A strong thread locker will make it difficult to change belt speeds.

You may want to pull that out and clean off the thread locker. Use heat on the bolt head to soften the thread locker. Run a tap through the female threads.

Those bolts don't need to be too tight. When tightened too much, the ends of the threads can mushroom on the motor mount rod. They will sometimes break when backing them out. I always sand/grind a taper on the end of the threads to eliminate that possibility.

Links are being weird. Do they work now?

Yes

 

[endangeredspecies]

Uh oh. A strong thread locker will make it difficult to change belt speeds.

You may want to pull that out and clean off the thread locker. Use heat on the bolt head to soften the thread locker. Run a tap through the female threads.

Those bolts don't need to be too tight. When tightened too much, the ends of the threads can mushroom on the motor mount rod. They will sometimes break when backing them out. I always sand/grind a taper on the end of the threads to eliminate that possibility.


Yes

You're the best.
That's a very good point. I do have plenty of nuts (to ensure the thread stays intact.) I'll grind a taper onto the Grade8 bolts, and just use SuperLube instead of TL. I didn't think Green was that strong (I have the 290, wicking, medium-strength.) My go-to is the removeable blue, but I saw green multiple times in here, so picked it up specifically for this project.

 

[WMichelsen]

Have Craftsman 100/150 lost luster in the market? There are 2 on craigslist near me, about $100 each, that are not moving. Nothing special, just vanilla floor standing models. But they seem reasonably clean, with clean tables. Seems like years ago, they would have gone quickly at that price, wouldn't they?

 

[endangeredspecies]

Not okay. I thought I felt one break when I tightened it.
I had to run an errand this morning, so picked up replacement bolts in both Stainless and Grade8.
Took one of the oldies out. Applied green threadlocker. Back in. Good.
Other one, head sheared right off.

https://imgur.com/a/l86x5Gq

Found my #1 EZ-Out. Need to see if I can track down the 9/64 left-hand bit.
I do have an off-brand set of double-ended extractors, but I've had limited success with them to date.
The fun - it continues.
Looks like I'll want to use the Grade8, over the SS, when threading into cast iron. I'm learning so much.

Center-Punched for location:

https://imgur.com/a/fEmP3Me

Center-Drilled with brand-new KEO HSS center drill. This thing didn't make much of a dent. Very disappointed in the whole set.
In Machine Shop, center drills always stayed on center, and drilled through everything from aluminum to SS to hardened alloys like they were Delrin.

https://imgur.com/a/NTLFnrS

Tried #1, #2 and #3 Titanium Speed-Out extractors. These are old, and probably dull. Proved themselves to be useless.
Had another erand to run so picked up Irwin-Hanson Extractor with Bit In #2 / 7/64, and #3 / 5/16.
Went in with 7/64. It was, at least, less useless than the others I tried. Once I got a dent in there, I grabbed my (brand new, saving them for use IN the press) Cle Line M42 bit. Now we're talking! Made quick work of the hole, all the way down to the motor mount post.
Got the #2 extractor situated in there, in a small tap handle. No budge. No budge. Ah Fudge. Snapped it off, clean even with the bolt shaft.

How to get THAT out?
Center punch didnt even make a dent in the middle of it. Center drill walked right off. Back to the M42 set. Drilled hole next to it on either side. Broke a really nice punch trying to finagle it out. Needle-Nose wouldn't grab it. Finally dig into it with a nice set of diagonal lineman's cutters. Was just enough to twist a wiggle it out.
Re-Drilled for the #3 extractor.

https://imgur.com/a/9DePier

I'm sure it's because it was bent, and tip has mushroomed. (This one was installed yesterday with just a little SynLube on the threads.) Still won't budge!
Time to drill it out to 19/64, Re-Tap, and see if I need to bore it out???

 

[endangeredspecies]

I do have a #4 extractor. I’ll try 1/4 bit in center hole first, see if that’s gonna weaken it enough to remove.

 

[endangeredspecies]

#4 extractor worked. Re-tapped. Hole is a little oversized (bolt a hair loose.) But considering its job, there's another on the other side (also re-tapped to clean threads), and admonishment to not overtighten, I think it'll work out great.

https://imgur.com/a/ZNT3Ffn

Got the motor mount bracket off. May have drilled into it a hair...
Took some doing, but drifted out the posts and have them soaking in simple green bath for rust removal.

https://imgur.com/a/TtR25WR

New lock bolts are tapered and caressed gently in anti-sieze.

https://imgur.com/a/DhKcWkF

Bracket and head re-cleaned with alcohol and re-waxed with hybrid ceramic. Head reinstalled. Ready for more reassembly tomorrow evening.

https://imgur.com/a/OuJmp8K

https://imgur.com/a/zlsa6hh

Ultra-Fine thrugh Coarse (white, gray, marroon, tan) Scotch-Brite which wasn't scheduled to be delivered until 9/16-10/21 arrived this afternoon. Just in time for me to have found an alternative for tidying up the column. Ah, well. I now have plenty to go around.

 

[FrankLee]

#4 extractor worked. Re-tapped. Hole is a little oversized (bolt a hair loose.) But considering its job, there's another on the other side (also re-tapped to clean threads), and admonishment to not overtighten, I think it'll work out great.


Got the motor mount bracket off. May have drilled into it a hair...
Took some doing, but drifted out the posts and have them soaking in simple green bath for rust removal.

I've had to deal with those broken bolts several times. It's never fun. Drilling into the rod is nbd. Good work.

 

[FrankLee]

Have Craftsman 100/150 lost luster in the market? There are 2 on craigslist near me, about $100 each, that are not moving. Nothing special, just vanilla floor standing models. But they seem reasonably clean, with clean tables. Seems like years ago, they would have gone quickly at that price, wouldn't they?

I tend to agree. There are quite a few in my fb search priced from $50 to $600 for a rusty, neglected dp. Many are between $200 and $300, But it's not just drill presses. There are tons of woodworking machines available. I often see free Craftsman table saws. Much of the younger generation are not DIYers. Shop classes are no longer available in HS. It's a fading hobby.

This Craftsman ISO is interesting.

 

[Prospecter]

Prices are down because I am not looking. They always go up when I am buying and down when I am not.

 

[Outlawmws]

As the motor mount slides locked/screwed into the plate, or just a nut and bolt arrangement?

Dress the high spots down with a fine sharpening stone, and if possible rotate them 90 degrees.

 

[FrankLee]

As the motor mount slides locked/screwed into the plate, or just a nut and bolt arrangement?

Dress the high spots down with a fine sharpening stone, and if possible rotate them 90 degrees.

The motor mount rods are turned down to 1/2"(?). That portion has straight knurls parallel to the rod all around. That portion is pressed into the plate.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Getting there!

https://imgur.com/a/c5r9Kcz

https://imgur.com/a/d31khFK

https://imgur.com/a/ooIvrgb

https://imgur.com/a/btUUrzk

 

[endangeredspecies]

PSA: Check your feed stop bracket

PSA: Check your feed stop bracket

About a year after I completed the refurb on my keeper machine, dp#15, I discovered that the feed stop bracket had started sliding down the quill. Shortly after that, I swapped out the quill with one that had the snap ring.

If its been a while since you refurbished your early Craftsman 100, it may be time to check your feed stop bracket to verify that it's still fully seated. A fully seated bracket should be about 3/32" below the bottom edge of the quill.

​

There are several clues that will help identify an out-of-position bracket.

Your bracket may be sliding off the quill if:

• you can see the pulley lift up at the end of a feed return
• you can hear the spindle collar bumping up against the spindle pulley shaft on a feed return
• you can feel the spindle collar bumping up against the spindle pulley shaft on a feed return
• you cannot see the entire thrust collar below the bracket

• you can see too much spindle sticking up above the pulley
  
  
  ​

The bracket on one of my recent machines was badly worn when it made contact with the chuck collar.

​

Check this post for the consequences of the feed stop bracket sliding off the quill.


I now normally use a green bearing retainer on feed stop brackets/quills when assembling these drill presses.


.

It took some doing to get the feed stop Bracket over the Quill. I don't think it had been set up properly - ever. I had to separate the jaws with a #3 screwdriver, and smack it on with a mallet.
I hope I got the O-Ring in the right spot. It looks like it goes above in the instructions exploded view, and is too large to fit inside.

https://imgur.com/a/N8mBbpr

 

[endangeredspecies]

A few more progress pics. So close. Haven't disassembled the chuck jaws yet, though, that that'll delay the next step.

Had to assemble the spindle collar from inside. Set screw stuck out past the surface of the Quill - and would not fit through the bore.
Old motor didn't have provisions for the switch. New one is deeper. 2" bolts I purchased 2 years ago were too short. And flat washers picked up tonight from the 5/16 bin were actually 1/4". So many little snags. But nothing that can't be worked through.

If I only had a drill press, I could have simply bored out the washers...
Actually, I think that's the 3rd time having a drill press would have facilitated reassembly of the drill press.

Pinion and Handle:

https://imgur.com/a/baMNEWt

Parts assembled:

https://imgur.com/a/256CBiQ

https://imgur.com/a/HSaXisJ

 

[endangeredspecies]

Due to expected stresses, interaction with cast iron, and the fact that the old ones breaking were how I knew it was time for a refurb - I replaced the just-installed SS Phillips head pulley stop screws with Grade 8 socket-head parts. Just a dab of anti-seize. Not too tight- just grazing the stops. And I picked up a spare pair.

https://imgur.com/a/DPXGPup

 

[endangeredspecies]

Got it together!
Amazing how much built up gunk was buried deep within the chuck.
In case anybody questions its provenance:

https://imgur.com/a/VLbun2D

https://imgur.com/a/661AlJ0

https://imgur.com/a/UalBXGV

https://imgur.com/a/OOwlrMH

 

[endangeredspecies]

It vibrates quite a bit more than I remember.
Drill runs straight and true.
Could it be because I’m on a suspended floor now, rather than slab?
Is there a way to balance or align the motor? Or do I just need to accept that the 1/3hp I bought is a little out of round?

https://imgur.com/a/N4XgAgi

 

[FrankLee]

It vibrates quite a bit more than I remember.
Drill runs straight and true.
Could it be because I’m on a suspended floor now, rather than slab?
Is there a way to balance or align the motor? Or do I just need to accept that the 1/3hp I bought is a little out of round?

A few things.

You want to ensure the motor shaft and the spindle are parallel and the belt is perpendicular to both. You don't have the pivoting motor mount, so parallel is not adjustable. Place a straight-edge (a 24" level works well) on the motor pulley and verify it is even with the top of the spindle pulley.

I don't recall if you mentioned getting a new v-belt. It looks like your belt may be original? If so, those original belts stiffen and retain the curves of the pulleys. This will cause vibration. I always prefer new cogged belts. Cogged belts travel around the pulleys very smoothly.
I get Goodyear or lately PIX from Amazon.

Your belt is in the highest, fastest position. Those upper speeds were used for shaping and routing functions. IMO, for most drilling applications, that is screaming fast. At that speed, any noise or vibration is amplified. I don't think I've ever used the top two positions and usually leave my belt on the lowest, slowest position. YMMV.

 

[FrankLee]

Due to expected stresses, interaction with cast iron, and the fact that the old ones breaking were how I knew it was time for a refurb - I replaced the just-installed SS Phillips head pulley stop screws with Grade 8 socket-head parts. Just a dab of anti-seize. Not too tight- just grazing the stops. And I picked up a spare pair.

IMO, the root cause of those screws breaking was a design flaw on the earlier 100s. It was later corrected when a snap ring was added to the lower quill.

Below are excerpts from much earlier posts.
.

The most difficult part was removing the machine screws that hold the pulley. I was able to
get one completely out, but the other was being stubborn. I was able to loosen it enough to
remove the pulley. Once the pulley was out, I could look in as see that the other screw was
bent worse than the first and had some threads really buggered up. So, I screwed it back in,
and was able to cut it off from the inside with a chisel. The rest came out without incident.
Only 1 casualty on a ~70 year old machine... not bad.

01/17/2017

You are correct... those screws are probably the most difficult part of disassembly, especially on the
older machines. The screws on you's appear to be slotted hex-head with washers. Originals would
have been round head, no washers. It's interesting to see what previous owners do to these
machines.

In an earlier post, I replaced those screws with hex-socket cap screws. I no longer do that because
those cap screws are hardened. It would be very difficult to remove them if the threads get buggered
up. The softer standard screws are the best option here. They can be drilled out, snapped, or chiseled
like you did. Are your screws the original size? 8-32? I've had those drilled larger in the past.

 

[Outlawmws]

As Frank said you are on the highest speed. go slow for most things. get some references for Surface speed per min for drilling or otherwise cutting for different trilaterals, steels for instance you need slower - a lot slower than aluminum or woods.

The larger the diameter of the cutter, the slower you need to go.

But for motor balance, remove the belt - Then see if it vibrates.