Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
I think there's plenty of space. Original switch had 3/16" blades, but leads were soldered.Hopefully, those blades don't extend too far down when the switch is installed.
For the Packard motors, I usually drill and tap the base for a ground point. I often use a toothed washer under the ring terminal, but I really don't think it's necessary.
With what shall I drill it? This powers the drill press!
I watched a video where a guy put a loop terminal on the ground lead, ran it through a clearance hole in the base, and inserted one of the motor end-cap bolts through it. Just need to check continuity on the Press so make make sure contact is clean/strong enough.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Thanks. FrankLee recommended removing the handi-box. The toggle rides in a 1/2" hole in the motor base. There is no box and, like I said, no grounding provision. (It's from the 1940's.)
So, I need to decide whether to tap into an existing screw, or drill and tap a dedicated hole for a (probably brass) ground screw.
Hopefully the power cord will come in this weekend.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
If the chassis of the DP housing you are muting into is grounded, you are there. Assuming the motor is grounded, and the motor/mounting is attached to the DP check continuity, and if you have it, you are grounded.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Looks like my 12ga power cord isn’t due in until the middle of the week.
Stripped for continuity and drilled at #29 for my 8-32 tap. But I’m waiting to cut threads until after I find a suitable screw, washer, and terminal. Would hate to go through the trouble just to learn I need to drill bore it out to #10.
Cast iron with a hand drill was interesting. Plenty of Tap Magic. 1st gear/ driving speed was too slow. But half to 3/4 power on Drill speed was great.
Tiny flakes until I broke through. Then nice long chips from the aluminum support.
(I don’t drill metals too often, and only when necessary.
Stripped for continuity and drilled at #29 for my 8-32 tap. But I’m waiting to cut threads until after I find a suitable screw, washer, and terminal. Would hate to go through the trouble just to learn I need to drill bore it out to #10.
Cast iron with a hand drill was interesting. Plenty of Tap Magic. 1st gear/ driving speed was too slow. But half to 3/4 power on Drill speed was great.
Tiny flakes until I broke through. Then nice long chips from the aluminum support.
(I don’t drill metals too often, and only when necessary.
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endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Tapped exactly as you said. Really easy once it started cutting.
All ready for the new cord.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
New ChannelLock retaining ring tool works about 97 times better than old (broken) Irwin one.
A little creativity, and the upper bearing is off:
Who has the link to the post that details the trick to getting that lower one to budge?
Puller claws don't seem to want to slip under the bearing.
I'd consider leaving it, but while the upper (removed) one sounds fine, this one's a little gritty and scratchy. Replacement is waiting in the wings.
I'll also need to figure out how to press or tap it on - I can't think of anything on hand long enough with a suitable diameter to reach down there and seat it.
I see another thread which states it's just loose fit on the shaft, but may get stuck. Is it worth trying to pry with a screwdriver or bar? Do I need to create a special makeshift puller just for this one?
A little creativity, and the upper bearing is off:
Who has the link to the post that details the trick to getting that lower one to budge?
Puller claws don't seem to want to slip under the bearing.
I'd consider leaving it, but while the upper (removed) one sounds fine, this one's a little gritty and scratchy. Replacement is waiting in the wings.
I'll also need to figure out how to press or tap it on - I can't think of anything on hand long enough with a suitable diameter to reach down there and seat it.
I see another thread which states it's just loose fit on the shaft, but may get stuck. Is it worth trying to pry with a screwdriver or bar? Do I need to create a special makeshift puller just for this one?
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Inner Snap Ring
I use these compound parallel jaw retaining ring pliers on those inner snap rings. There are several identical pliers under different brands. The tips have a recessed area that hold the ends of the snap rings. These work great! Like many of my tools, I found these at an estate sale.
Spindle Pulley Bearings
Very early on, I made this bearing puller for the upper pulley bearing. This worked well too.
I later found (also at an estate sale) a Proto puller with #4027 narrow jaws that fits under the upper bearing.
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Yesterday, I picked up this little jointer. There are no badges, but it has some part numbers in common with the Atlas Power King 541 jointer. This one has sleeve bearings though. It could have been branded differently or a very early version of the 541.
Anyway, it will complement my Power King sander nicely. The jointer fence fits on the sander.
The motor is a Kingston-Conley; 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm. It is virtually identical to the Atlas and Hoover motors I recently refurbished.
8/28/2025
Finished cleaning and reassembling the jointer.
9/3/2025
The K-C motor cleaned-up nicely and runs great with new bearings! I installed this on my Atlas 5010 sander instead of the Hoover motor that came wit it.
Anyway, it will complement my Power King sander nicely. The jointer fence fits on the sander.
The motor is a Kingston-Conley; 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm. It is virtually identical to the Atlas and Hoover motors I recently refurbished.
8/28/2025
Finished cleaning and reassembling the jointer.
9/3/2025
The K-C motor cleaned-up nicely and runs great with new bearings! I installed this on my Atlas 5010 sander instead of the Hoover motor that came wit it.
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I wanted to figure this out on my own but I think I need help from the experts. I just rebuilt a 115.6962, dated 4/55. I verified it ran before I started. In fact, after initial reassembly I also verified that it ran great. But when I reinstalled the base, using Frank's "correct" orientation of the switch, I plugged it in flipped the switch and saw a spark just before my lights went out. I reset my breaker and slowly started disassembling things, checking each wire looking for a burnt mark indicating a short.
After my reassembled test run, the only thing I changed electrically was grounding the new cord to the base. Before I disassembled anything I used my multimeter to find anything going to ground and found nothing. Now that I'm down to the bare stator I've tested each of the 5 wires and still nothing to ground. I should mention here, my background is mechanical, not electrical so there's a lot I don't understand. What has me really puzzled is the fact that the red and green wires, coming off the stator and bunched with one yellow wire, show a resistance of .7 ohms when connected to the other green wire that connects to the neutral of the power cord. It seems to me that the result is a direct connection of the black power wire to the neutral wire. Is that accurate?
I have been over every square inch of this stator and all of the wires, there is no sign of a short anywhere but that spark tells me I have a wiring problem. Can anyone direct me to what I should be looking at?
Also, this motor has the simple terminal strip with only 2 posts. Each post holds one of the yellow. capacitor wires. One side also has the red from the stator, and the other has the green stator and black wire from the thermal overload switch.
I can get pictures of anything right now if that well help.
After my reassembled test run, the only thing I changed electrically was grounding the new cord to the base. Before I disassembled anything I used my multimeter to find anything going to ground and found nothing. Now that I'm down to the bare stator I've tested each of the 5 wires and still nothing to ground. I should mention here, my background is mechanical, not electrical so there's a lot I don't understand. What has me really puzzled is the fact that the red and green wires, coming off the stator and bunched with one yellow wire, show a resistance of .7 ohms when connected to the other green wire that connects to the neutral of the power cord. It seems to me that the result is a direct connection of the black power wire to the neutral wire. Is that accurate?
I have been over every square inch of this stator and all of the wires, there is no sign of a short anywhere but that spark tells me I have a wiring problem. Can anyone direct me to what I should be looking at?
Also, this motor has the simple terminal strip with only 2 posts. Each post holds one of the yellow. capacitor wires. One side also has the red from the stator, and the other has the green stator and black wire from the thermal overload switch.
I can get pictures of anything right now if that well help.
I am certainly not an electrical expert and can't give advice on resistance measurements. I have had similar problems trying to install the capacitor over the wires in the base. My capacitor wire was shorting out to the bottom cover.
Did you try resetting the thermal switch?
Check the wires that pass between the end frame and the stator for any exposed wires.
Check connections to the switch.
Pictures always help.
Did you try resetting the thermal switch?
Check the wires that pass between the end frame and the stator for any exposed wires.
Check connections to the switch.
Pictures always help.
Thanks Frank, I didn't reset the switch because it was running before I grounded the cord. I haven't tried running it yet after the spark. I have it all apart searching for any burn marks, shorts, or breaks in the windings but everything looks great. I was paying very close attention where the wires are practically pinched between the end frame and stator. That's where I expected to find a problem.
If you see a black stain on the green shrink wrap it's because I used a match to heat the tape.
If you see a black stain on the green shrink wrap it's because I used a match to heat the tape.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Awesome assistance as always!Inner Snap Ring
I use these compound parallel jaw retaining ring pliers on those inner snap rings. There are several identical pliers under different brands. The tips have a recessed area that hold the ends of the snap rings. These work great! Like many of my tools, I found these at an estate sale.
Spindle Pulley Bearings
Very early on, I made this bearing puller for the upper pulley bearing. This worked well too.
I later found (also at an estate sale) a Proto puller with #4027 narrow jaws that fits under the upper bearing.
My ChanelLock 927 retaining ring tool was fabulous. Came with an assortment of straight and 90-degree tips, as well as the hex wrench and spare set screws. (Straight Copper tips not shown.)
The estate sales I've been to never have great stuff like that - just burned-out Makitas, dull hand saws, and bent screwdrivers. I'll keep dreaming.
Saw one of those Proto J4027's online for something like $400. For a single use? No, Thanks! I was heading out to the garage to see what I have, and what I'd need, to fab up a DIY unit like yours, and decided - since it's loose-fit - to see if I could pry it up. Pry bar and 2 large screwdrivers got it up just high enough to get the jaws of my GearWrench puller underneath!
It's off!
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endangeredspecies
Well-known member
New 12-ga power cord arrived. I'll see if I have time to wire it up tonight or tomorrow.
The 6" thru-bolts I ordered are exactly the same length as the broken one! They're actually closer to 6.25" long, 10-32. Let me take a good one out and measure precisely. If you really have one to send, please, message me for address and payment info.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Managed to locate the press, and put the pulley back together:
Got the motor all wired up:
Was a little touch-and-go on the hot. I trimmed off about 1/16” from the tip. Then stripped it back a hair more, and folded it in two to fit snugly into the 12ga terminal. I guess I could have used a 16ga! Have a couple of those in the toolbox.
Motor runs!
Got the motor all wired up:
Was a little touch-and-go on the hot. I trimmed off about 1/16” from the tip. Then stripped it back a hair more, and folded it in two to fit snugly into the 12ga terminal. I guess I could have used a 16ga! Have a couple of those in the toolbox.
Motor runs!
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endangeredspecies
Well-known member
10/-32 Thru-bolt is 6 1/4 long. I can’t find anything like it online.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Can you locate 10-32 all thread?
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
There’s a 10-pack of 7” at McMaster, so it must exist. I’ll keep looking!
I'm inching my way closer. I took your advice Frank and it ran great with the capacitor out of the base. Then I remembered I hadn't connected the ground on the new cord. I'm temporarily clamping it under one of the base to stator bolts. After connecting the ground and clicking the switch ON it immediately tripped my GFCI. That's better than the big spark and tripped breaker yesterday.
I have some more head scratching to do now.
I have some more head scratching to do now.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Was able to track down 12" threaded rod at a couple sources. Piece of that, and some nuts, are incoming.
I think all I have left is to refresh is the Quill and associated hardware, and put it all back together. I've already got a pretty busy weekend planned, but hopefully I can squeeze in a few hours to tackle it.
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It might not be pretty but it's a working motor. In the last week I had it apart probably 10 times trying to figure things out. I've just about worn off my new paint but I protected my new stator band the best I could.
Yesterday I was getting weird voltage readings coming off the case. That scared me more than a little. Before my last desperate attempt to fix it today I decided to watch parts of Jeff's (11b30b4) video where he reassembled a motor like mine. He was holding the governor and the insulator in one hand, then he picked up the steel shield and seemed to pause as if he was hinting to me "hey *****, see this insulator? Think about it". The light went on in my head. I'm willing to bet that I put that insulator under the steel plate the first 9 reassemblies, but on the 10th time I reversed them, giving one of the governor contacts direct access to the steel motor end.
After repairing that issue my motor now runs great and isn't threatening to shock me.
I may or may not have a good suggestion for others. Early on in my misery I thought my tuna can capacitor died so I ordered one from Frank's capacitor supplier, Air Star Filters. The specs look correct but I'm not 100% sure this is the right capacitor for our drill presses. I tried it briefly and it seemed to work. I didn't use it because my tuna can appeared to be OK. I mention this capacitor because it's tiny. I believe it will fit in the base with little or no modifications.
The capacitor is Mars part #11112 124-156 mfd. It's 1 7/16" diameter and 2 3/4" long.
I sure appreciate all the help on this forum. I would have never got this thing working with all the good information on here.
Yesterday I was getting weird voltage readings coming off the case. That scared me more than a little. Before my last desperate attempt to fix it today I decided to watch parts of Jeff's (11b30b4) video where he reassembled a motor like mine. He was holding the governor and the insulator in one hand, then he picked up the steel shield and seemed to pause as if he was hinting to me "hey *****, see this insulator? Think about it". The light went on in my head. I'm willing to bet that I put that insulator under the steel plate the first 9 reassemblies, but on the 10th time I reversed them, giving one of the governor contacts direct access to the steel motor end.
After repairing that issue my motor now runs great and isn't threatening to shock me.
I may or may not have a good suggestion for others. Early on in my misery I thought my tuna can capacitor died so I ordered one from Frank's capacitor supplier, Air Star Filters. The specs look correct but I'm not 100% sure this is the right capacitor for our drill presses. I tried it briefly and it seemed to work. I didn't use it because my tuna can appeared to be OK. I mention this capacitor because it's tiny. I believe it will fit in the base with little or no modifications.
The capacitor is Mars part #11112 124-156 mfd. It's 1 7/16" diameter and 2 3/4" long.
I sure appreciate all the help on this forum. I would have never got this thing working with all the good information on here.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Now that I have comparison parts in hand, turns out the original 6.25" thru-bolts are actually 10-24. But the 10-32 all-thread will do the job. Nuts somehow got delayed, so I'm going to wait to cut it down and install it until they arrive on Tuesday.
Cleared out the shed and searching for manual, parts and details to refresh the quill and get it all back together.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Based on info from the Drill Press Inforation thread,
I found Buna-N B70 O-Rings at the O-Ring Store. Has a $10 minimum order, so I picked up 15 AS568-223, and 12 ea AS568-312 and AS568-326. Shipping is reasonable, though not free. So I'll have a few extra 5/8" ID x 3/16" CS, 1-5/8" ID x 3/16" CS and 1-5/8" ID x 1/8" CS leftovers for the next guy who gets this far.
Now to see if I can remove the blind pin securing the Thrust Collar, so I can get that lower bearing off. The fun continues.
I found Buna-N B70 O-Rings at the O-Ring Store. Has a $10 minimum order, so I picked up 15 AS568-223, and 12 ea AS568-312 and AS568-326. Shipping is reasonable, though not free. So I'll have a few extra 5/8" ID x 3/16" CS, 1-5/8" ID x 3/16" CS and 1-5/8" ID x 1/8" CS leftovers for the next guy who gets this far.
Now to see if I can remove the blind pin securing the Thrust Collar, so I can get that lower bearing off. The fun continues.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
I spoke too soon!
Was able to drif the spindle out of the quill. Both bearings are inside the quill. So no need to attempt to remove the thrust collar. Whew.
Only question is - now - how to remove both the upper and lower bearings from inside the quill?
Too long for my 1-Ton Press. No inner shaft for my Gear Wrench gear/bearing puller. Do I need to knock one of them all the way down to the other and press them both out? Will tapping an offset drift into the far one be enough to unseat it?
I'll keep thinking about it. If you have tricks, I'm all ears.
Feed Handle and Hub removed and cleaned up:
Jacobs Chuck removed:
Feed Stop and Quill Lock hardware tidied up:
Spindle removal in progress:
Spindle removed:
Quill ckeaned up, but old bearings are still inside:
Was able to drif the spindle out of the quill. Both bearings are inside the quill. So no need to attempt to remove the thrust collar. Whew.
Only question is - now - how to remove both the upper and lower bearings from inside the quill?
Too long for my 1-Ton Press. No inner shaft for my Gear Wrench gear/bearing puller. Do I need to knock one of them all the way down to the other and press them both out? Will tapping an offset drift into the far one be enough to unseat it?
I'll keep thinking about it. If you have tricks, I'm all ears.
Feed Handle and Hub removed and cleaned up:
Jacobs Chuck removed:
Feed Stop and Quill Lock hardware tidied up:
Spindle removal in progress:
Spindle removed:
Quill ckeaned up, but old bearings are still inside:
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Thanks, FrankLee. I found that, too! Before getting in there, I watched a video on another site where the guy spent an inordinate amount of time removing a blind pin. So I was preparing for the worst. So glad I didn't need to go that route.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Could you not slip a socket with a near 1" OD in there, and then use the dowel? That should keep things off the sheild.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
I didn't have a 1/2" wooden dowel on hand, but improvised and punched the lower bearing out. Then a piece of PVC pipe is enough to get the remaining one.
Bearings Out!
And Bearings In!!!
1-5/8" x 1/8" fiber Quill Gasket is pretty much shot:
5/8" x 3/16" rubber Spindle Collar Washer is actually still in decent shape, but a little stiff. And Sticky:
Spindle Collar, rubber Washer, and Washer were smashed together and so sticky - I thought there were a single unit.
Not anymore:
https://imgur.com/a/wKXTLW1
I will be waiting for motor nuts and O-Rings to arrive before continuing reassembly. With luck, I'll be quiet here for a couple days.
Thanks again for all the help and support.
Bearings Out!
And Bearings In!!!
1-5/8" x 1/8" fiber Quill Gasket is pretty much shot:
5/8" x 3/16" rubber Spindle Collar Washer is actually still in decent shape, but a little stiff. And Sticky:
Spindle Collar, rubber Washer, and Washer were smashed together and so sticky - I thought there were a single unit.
Not anymore:
https://imgur.com/a/wKXTLW1
I will be waiting for motor nuts and O-Rings to arrive before continuing reassembly. With luck, I'll be quiet here for a couple days.
Thanks again for all the help and support.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
If I follow your reasoning, that should work fine for the 2nd bearing. But since they were pressed in at both ends, there was no way to get anything larger than 5/8" through the bore.
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
Do any of the splines/shafts or springs need to be greased up for reassembly?
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
That's fantastic, FrankLee. Thanks again.
I don't have SuperLube, but I have a great synthetic automotive high-temp bearing grease, and synthetic 0-20w motor oil which I think will work.
I need to check my stash for anti-sieze. I feel as though I bought a tube a couple years ago when I disassembled the press, but I didn't see it in the parts box this afternoon.
One final item - I didn't see the Thrust Collar / Jacobs Chuck threads on your exhaustive list. When I took it apart, they had what initially looked like PTFE plumber's tape, but when it came apart it was more like a dried white powder.
I've cleaned it off.
Is that a good spot for the purple Loc-Tite? (I also have Blue) Or something else?
I don't have SuperLube, but I have a great synthetic automotive high-temp bearing grease, and synthetic 0-20w motor oil which I think will work.
I need to check my stash for anti-sieze. I feel as though I bought a tube a couple years ago when I disassembled the press, but I didn't see it in the parts box this afternoon.
One final item - I didn't see the Thrust Collar / Jacobs Chuck threads on your exhaustive list. When I took it apart, they had what initially looked like PTFE plumber's tape, but when it came apart it was more like a dried white powder.
I've cleaned it off.
Is that a good spot for the purple Loc-Tite? (I also have Blue) Or something else?
endangeredspecies
Well-known member
I noticed. And I did my best to put it back the way I found it.Also, the quill has a top and bottom. When installing the spindle into the quill, be aware that the gear rack is closer to the top.
These get installed upside down more often than you'd think.
After how difficult it was to remove the spindle from the quill, I was shocked how easily- and perfectly straight- it went back in the new bearing bore.