Craftsman Drill Press

[tamperista]

Hi Dave, I'm on the side of better safe than sorry. Taking very light conventional cuts (as opposed to climbing cuts) and keeping the quill close to the head might work with firmly clamped aluminum. I should mention that when the cutter pushes away from the workpiece, the entire assembly of work/workholding contraption and the drill press table will all push away from the cutter: that little pinch bolt can have a hard time keeping the table from moving a degree or so on the round column unless you really reef it tight! When the spindle is used as intended, all of the balls in the bearing are pushed up against the outer race, and they all support the thrust/axial load as they rotate. When that bearing is pushed radially (sideways), only two or three of the balls contact on just one side of the outer race, the spindle is no longer centered, and things heat up in a hurry! I say don't be afraid to try your idea after you've gotten everything as rigid as you can make it, but tread lightly. Many have gone there before, and most all have retreated after a sudden scare. Regards, Dana.

 

[SDavisH]

Re: Spindle Pulley Assembly

FrankLee,

What length hex socket cap screw do you use as a replacement for part #58? I just bought a craftsman model 103.23141 and the original screws appear to be missing.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: Spindle Pulley Assembly

FrankLee,

What length hex socket cap screw do you use as a replacement for part #58? I just bought a craftsman model 103.23141 and the original screws appear to be missing.

Those are 8-32 x 3/4". Please share some pictures of your machine!

 

[SDavisH]

Re: Spindle Pulley Assembly

Those are 8-32 x 3/4". Please share some pictures of your machine!

Thanks, Frank.

Below are some pics. It's in pieces right now. You'll see in the pictures that a couple of the feed handle ends are bent. Have you ever straightened those out? If so, how did you do it?

Also, the base is pretty rusty. Do you usually soak the bigger pieces in vinegar to get some of the rust off?

 

[FrankLee]

Re: Spindle Pulley Assembly

Thanks, Frank.

Below are some pics. It's in pieces right now. You'll see in the pictures that a couple of the feed handle ends are bent. Have you ever straightened those out? If so, how did you do it?

Also, the base is pretty rusty. Do you usually soak the bigger pieces in vinegar to get some of the rust off?

To straighten bent feed handles, I clamp a threaded coupler in a vise, heat the threaded rod end with a torch, thread the end into the coupler, and bend it back as straight as I can.

However, one of yours appears to be bent beyond the point of repair. You can try the above technique, but I believe it would break. Broken rods can be repaired with a lathe.

​

Regarding the base... It would take a lot of vinegar and a large container to clean the base. If you have a container that large, electrolysis would probably work better.
I've used a wire wheel on a drill to clean-up rust on larger cast iron pieces.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3897777&postcount=57


The paint on your head frame and motor appears to be in very good condition. What are your plans?



11/17/2016

This thread passed the 80000-views milestone today. Thanks for stopping in!

 

[SDavisH]

Re: Spindle Pulley Assembly

To straighten bent feed handles, I clamp a threaded coupler in a vise, heat the threaded rod end with a torch, thread the end into the coupler, and bend it back as straight as I can.

However, one of yours appears to be bent beyond the point of repair. You can try the above technique, but I believe it would break. Broken rods can be repaired with a lathe.

​

Regarding the base... It would take a lot of vinegar and a large container to clean the base. If you have a container that large, electrolysis would probably work better.
I've used a wire wheel on a drill to clean-up rust on larger cast iron pieces.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3897777&postcount=57


The paint on your head frame and motor appears to be in very good condition. What are your plans?



11/17/2016

This thread passed the 80000-views milestone today. Thanks for stopping in!

Thanks for the suggestions. The electrolysis looked pretty interesting, but I wasn't sure if it was any better than letting it soak in vinegar.

I am going to break it all down, clean it, replace the missing/broken parts (if I can) and then put it back together and use it. Should be a fun project.

Most of the paint is in good shape, so I was going to leave those pieces alone. Although, the other side of the head frame has a big orange "B-72" painted on it. I' m going to try and remove that. The guy I bought the DP from said it was his grandfathers and he was involved in building bomber airplanes here in Nashville during WWII.

Have you ever removed a column plug on one of these?

 

[Outlawmws]

SD an Etank is better than the vinegar. You can't hurt the parts with an Etank; you CAN with Vinegar if care is not taken, and it will etch the surfaces of machined/polished parts anyway.

 

[SDavisH]

Thanks Outlaw. I didn't think about it acting as an etching agent.

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks for the suggestions. The electrolysis looked pretty interesting, but I wasn't sure if it was any better than letting it soak in vinegar.

I am going to break it all down, clean it, replace the missing/broken parts (if I can) and then put it back together and use it. Should be a fun project.

Most of the paint is in good shape, so I was going to leave those pieces alone. Although, the other side of the head frame has a big orange "B-72" painted on it. I' m going to try and remove that. The guy I bought the DP from said it was his grandfathers and he was involved in building bomber airplanes here in Nashville during WWII.

Have you ever removed a column plug on one of these?

SD an Etank is better than the vinegar. You can't hurt the parts with an Etank; you CAN with Vinegar if care is not taken, and it will etch the surfaces of machined/polished parts anyway.

Thanks Outlaw. I didn't think about it acting as an etching agent.

I use vinegar a lot on smaller pieces. If you've never used it, you may want to try it on those feed handle rods to see how it works. Those knobs are threaded onto the rods and will come off. You may need a couple 3/8" jamb nuts on the hub end of the rods to assist.

I think you'll be very pleased with how the electrolysis works on the cast iron. If you search GJ, you'll find many examples on how to set it up.

The column plug is simply a friction fit. It should come off using a thin screw driver or putty knife.
If it's really stuck or rusted on, use a long furring strip or similar and knock it out from the bottom of the column. If you need to use this technique, stuff a rag in first so the plug wont get dented.

 

[SDavisH]

I use vinegar a lot on smaller pieces. If you've never used it, you may want to try it on those feed handle rods to see how it works. Those knobs are threaded onto the rods and will come off. You may need a couple 3/8" jamb nuts on the hub end of the rods to assist.

I think you'll be very pleased with how the electrolysis works on the cast iron. If you search GJ, you'll find many examples on how to set it up.

The column plug is simply a friction fit. It should come off using a thin screw driver or putty knife.
If it's really stuck or rusted on, use a long furring strip or similar and knock it out from the bottom of the column. If you need to use this technique, stuff a rag in first so the plug wont get dented.

I'll give all this a shot and see where I end up. Thanks again for the suggestions.

 

[SDavisH]

Re: Spindle Pulley Assembly

4/5/2015:

The Spindle Pulley Assembly

Based on the questions I've received and the posts I've seen, the spindle pulley assembly is probably the most difficult and misunderstood part of disassembly.

Attempting to remove the pulley without knowing how can result in a bad day. The picture on the left is an example of a pulley that was likely pried up from the top side in an attempt to remove it.
The picture on the right is the original pulley from my drill press #1. The bottom step was cleanly cut off, likely because it was also broken during a removal attempt.

​

____________________Photo courtesy of src60.


When snap rings are seen on the pulley inside the head frame, it is often assumed that one or both of those must be removed to get the pulley out. Under normal circumstances, this is not necessary.

​

This can be the result of removing the inner snap ring. I won't say it's wrong, but IMO, it sure seems much more difficult than it needs to be.


Photos "borrowed" from PICAH.


Spindle Pulley Removal steps:

​

1. Remove the head frame from the column.

2. Remove the quill assembly from the head frame.

3. Remove the two screws from the outside of the head frame on opposite sides of the pulley.

These screws are parts #58 in the exploded diagram above. These screws are the only thing securing the assembly into the head frame (besides dirt, dust, dried grease, gunk, etc.). The screws are threaded into the head frame and extend into the bearing cavity just above the lower bearing. They simply prevent the assembly from lifting out when the spindle is lowered and raised. They are not set screws pressing on the outer race of the bearing.

​

Below are a couple King-Seeley patent drawings. The drawing on the left shows the spindle pulley assembly installed with the screws in place. The drawing on the right shows the pulley assembly partially removed.
These drawings show the quill/spindle assembly installed. When disassembling the drill press, the quill/spindle assembly should be removed prior to the spindle pulley assembly.

​

Depending on the condition of those screws, they may not back out. I've had screws break halfway out, bent screws, screw threads worn from the bearing, and the screwdriver slots strip out. If they are the original 8-32 screws, they should snap while tapping out the pulley without damaging the pulley.
The bottom screw in the picture below is bent and has worn threads. It did back out, but took a little effort.

​

4. Pull the pulley assembly out from the top.

It should pull out with a little effort. Referring to patent drawing Fig 2 above, there are two bearings (blue) and two machined cylinders in the head frame (yellow). After the pulley is partially removed and the bearings are free from their installed position, the assembly will be loose within the head frame. It must be realigned correctly so the lower bearing can also pass through the upper bearing location.

​

4a. If the assembly does not pull out easily, insert a long wooden dowel or furring strip (12"-16") into the quill opening from the bottom and tap out the pulley with a hammer. A LFH should do the job just fine.
Again, the lower bearing must be realigned correctly to pass through the upper bearing location.

​

5. Remove the outer snap ring #5 from the top side with needle nose pliers.

The outer snap ring is only used so the lower spindle pulley bearing has something to bottom-out on. Some models are equipped with a split ring instead of a snap ring.

​

Under normal circumstances, the inner snap ring #4 stays on the pulley assembly during removal. I've never had the need to remove the pulley assembly in pieces.

​

10/25/2015:

Removing the spindle pulley bearings

Now that the spindle pulley assembly is safely removed from the head frame, the bearings may be removed.

When originally installed at the factory, the spindle bearings and spacer were simply slid onto the pulley shaft and held in place with the inner snap ring. The tolerance was very small, but the bearings were not pressed on.

Over time, two obstacles developed that prevent the bearings from sliding off the shaft. First, grease, oil, and dirt will harden and glue the inner race to the pulley shaft. Second, the inner snap ring will somewhat burr the snap-ring groove preventing the bearings from sliding off.

In most cases a puller of some sort is required to remove the bearings. However, most puller jaws are too large to reach into the underside of the pulley to grab the upper bearing.

I don't have a welder or lathe, but here's a simple and effective puller I made with bits and pieces I had on hand. I did buy two new 5/16" x 5" carriage bolts. Total cost was $1.16. Pictures tell the story.

After both bearings are removed, clean the pulley and use fine sandpaper to remove the burr on the inner snap ring groove.​

FrankLee,

I was able to remove the spindle pulley assembly and the bearings are pretty grungy. How can you tell if the bearings need to be replaced or just cleaned? The lower bearing spins very easily, but the top one (right under the inner snap ring) seems to drag.

Also, the outer snap ring in the head frame is a split ring? How do you pop that out? I tried to pop it out by pushing up on it from underneath, but it is not budging.​

 

[FrankLee]

Re: Spindle Pulley Assembly

FrankLee,

I was able to remove the spindle pulley assembly and the bearings are pretty grungy. How can you tell if the bearings need to be replaced or just cleaned? The lower bearing spins very easily, but the top one (right under the inner snap ring) seems to drag.

Also, the outer snap ring in the head frame is a split ring? How do you pop that out? I tried to pop it out by pushing up on it from underneath, but it is not budging.

The split ring can be removed with a pick or small screwdriver. Pry the end of the split ring out of the groove. Lift out the end of the ring as you pry it out around the groove.


Cleaning Bearings

After you remove the bearings from the spindle, check for any axial looseness between the inner race and the outer race. Check for any radial roughness when rotating the inner race/outer race.

I've cleaned quite a few spindle pulley and quill bearings. The most thorough way is to remove the shields. Then soak, spray, and pick out the old grease and use an ultrasonic cleaner if available. Running the bearings without the seals or shields will not be a big deal.

​

Cleaning bearings is very time consuming and labor intensive. New bearings can be relatively inexpensive. The last set of four I bought on 11/2/16 from Accurate Bearing were only $30.76 which included shipping. IIRC, the quill bearings were TPI (Taiwan) and the pulley bearings were Nachi (Japan). I prefer shielded bearings for the pulley and sealed bearings for the quill.

 

[SDavisH]

Thanks FrankLee. I was looking at the parts diagram and noticed this model, not sure if all model 100 DP are the same, only has one spindle bearing and a spindle sleeve. The one I pulled out has 2 sets of bearings and I don't know about a spindle sleeve. Have you noticed this before? Do you think I reassemble it with 2, as it was?

Also, do you have the part no. for the rubber gaskets you use on the spindle and quill?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks FrankLee. I was looking at the parts diagram and noticed this model, not sure if all model 100 DP are the same, only has one spindle bearing and a spindle sleeve. The one I pulled out has 2 sets of bearings and I don't know about a spindle sleeve. Have you noticed this before? Do you think I reassemble it with 2, as it was?

Also, do you have the part no. for the rubber gaskets you use on the spindle and quill?

That rendering actually has two bearings pictured, but only one is identified by the number 3. I'm not sure why that was, but both bearings are identical. All 100's, 150's, and even the next generation of Emerson manufactured drill presses use the same spindle pulley assemblies with the same bearings.

I use O-rings to replace those rubber gaskets. The 5/8" ID spindle gasket must have a 3/16" cross section. The cross section of the 1-5/8" ID quill gasket can be variable.
See here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3805412#post3805412

 

[SDavisH]

I see. Guess I should have looked more closely. It's a bit more obvious on the 150 DP parts manuals.

 

[FrankLee]

I see. Guess I should have looked more closely. It's a bit more obvious on the 150 DP parts manuals.

No worries.

 

[SDavisH]

No worries.

Here is a link to the O-rings I ordered from www.theoringstore.com .
312 N90 Buna-N Nitrile O-ring Duro 90
326 N90 Buna-N Nitrile O-ring Duro 90

The N90 is a rather hard nitrile rubber. It's perfect for the spindle washer, but if I had to order more, I think I'd get the N70 for the quill gasket. I believe the N70 is a softer rubber.
326 N70 Buna-N Nitrile 70 O-ring

Thank you, sir. I appreciate the help.

 

[smalltown]

Well I just got back from my road trip to buy an old Craftsman Drill Press.
It was sold to me by the son of the original owner who hasn't used it. The son thought the Drill Press was purchased in the 1960's. We managed to shoe horn it into the trunk of my car with the back seat turned down.

We think it's a model 100 not sure of the build date so I included a picture of the motor where amongst other things is stamped 10 55. I wonder does that mean Oct 1955 ?

It has some surface rust on the column, but the base where the column attaches looks the worst. The head is as expected dirty, and frozen to the column. The base will surely take some patience to get it the column freed up. The work table does move with a little effort, and I'm pleased that ily all three handles are in good shape. Overall my novice opinion is that it has not been abused, but exposed over time to a less than dry condition.

Not going to tear into it right away until I finish my brake job on my Ford Explorer Sport Trac, but I am glad at this point to have it safely stored in my heated garage.

Should place it on some sort of pan, and every once and a while spray some PB Blaster on the base to help things along ? Mabey someone has a suggestion for doing something similar to the head while it waits its turn.

Special thanks to Frank Lee for all his great step by step information, and advice.

 

[FrankLee]

Well I just got back from my road trip to buy an old Craftsman Drill Press.
It was sold to me by the son of the original owner who hasn't used it. The son thought the Drill Press was purchased in the 1960's. We managed to shoe horn it into the trunk of my car with the back seat turned down.

We think it's a model 100 not sure of the build date so I included a picture of the motor where amongst other things is stamped 10 55. I wonder does that mean Oct 1955 ?

It has some surface rust on the column, but the base where the column attaches looks the worst. The head is as expected dirty, and frozen to the column. The base will surely take some patience to get it the column freed up. The work table does move with a little effort, and I'm pleased that ily all three handles are in good shape. Overall my novice opinion is that it has not been abused, but exposed over time to a less than dry condition.

Not going to tear into it right away until I finish my brake job on my Ford Explorer Sport Trac, but I am glad at this point to have it safely stored in my heated garage.

Should place it on some sort of pan, and every once and a while spray some PB Blaster on the base to help things along ? Mabey someone has a suggestion for doing something similar to the head while it waits its turn.

Special thanks to Frank Lee for all his great step by step information, and advice.

Very nice! Another diamond in the rough!

Yes, it's a 100 and you're correct on the date. It was likely 1956 model because it does not have the tilt table.

If you have the room, remove the motor and lay the whole unit down forward with the table resting on a milk crate or 2x4. Remove the column bolt on the base and spray a liberal amount of PB into the hole and around the column above and below the base. Also PBlast the column at the table and the head frame. Reapply PB once or twice a day until you get to working on it.

The table and head frame locks may not be releasing the column even with the bolts loosened. You may have to knock those out before the table and head frames will move easier. If you can remove the lock cylinders on the table, you can PB inside the table support.

 

[smalltown]

Haven't done any restoral work on the Craftsman Drill Press model 100 yet, but I did have one comment, and a question.

Wow does it sound nice when I switch it on.

I lowered the quill (did I say that right ?) I can feel that the grease must be all dried out, and it does not spring back.
I realize I need to (and look forward to ) take it apart, clean, lube, etc., but after reading all the posts several times I am still not sure just how to clean the paint on the head for example. I read one post about using a soft scouring pad, but I wanted to be sure I don't ruin the paint job if it is original, and can be saved.

Did I mention that it sounds great ??

 

[FrankLee]

Haven't done any restoral work on the Craftsman Drill Press model 100 yet, but I did have one comment, and a question.

Wow does it sound nice when I switch it on.

I lowered the quill (did I say that right ?) I can feel that the grease must be all dried out, and it does not spring back.
I realize I need to (and look forward to ) take it apart, clean, lube, etc., but after reading all the posts several times I am still not sure just how to clean the paint on the head for example. I read one post about using a soft scouring pad, but I wanted to be sure I don't ruin the paint job if it is original, and can be saved.

Did I mention that it sounds great ??

Excellent! Good to hear that it runs great.

Yes. Lowering the quill is correct terminology. The quill failing to return could be a couple things. It could be the sticky grease as you mentioned on the quill and/or on the pinion shaft. It could also be that the quill lock is not releasing the quill when the lever bolt is loosened. Dried-out grease will prevent those lock cylinders from loosening. Try removing the quill lock bolt and cylinders. Less likely it could be that the spring is not tensioned enough.

I usually clean original paint with mineral spirits and a green Scotch Brite pad. Use caution if you use a lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. Those will remove paint if used too aggressively.

Lacquer thinner on a soft cloth works great on the engine-turned head frame trim only (not the painted oval head frame badge).

 

[Cruzan80]

Just had a delta DP that the quill had so much old grease and junk that had cemented onto it that even after removing the spring and the pinion rod, the thing still hung there. At first I thought it was a broken spring, but after cleaning thoroughly, works just great now.

 

[smalltown]

He Frank I am looking at my Home Depot page and they sell Scotch Brite Heavy Duty, and Scotch Brite Industrial Strength.

I guessing the Heavy Duty is the one I want ?

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Scotch-B...?Ntx=mode+matchall&NCNI-5&browsestoreoption=1

 

[FrankLee]

He Frank I am looking at my Home Depot page and they sell Scotch Brite Heavy Duty, and Scotch Brite Industrial Strength.

I guessing the Heavy Duty is the one I want ?

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Scotch-B...?Ntx=mode+matchall&NCNI-5&browsestoreoption=1

The heavy duty is what I use. The industrial may be too coarse and remove paint... I dunno. Cutting the pad in two makes a good working size.

 

[smalltown]

I promised myself I would wrap up my other projects before I work on the Drill Press, but curiosity got the best of me. I bought the Heavy Duty pads you suggested, and tried a few spots. It sure does remove what appears to be years of grime. I wiped it off with a clean cloth, and the cloth looked brown. Had to try the nose piece, and what a difference. I can imagine you must also use an old tooth brush to get in the pores of the casting. Should I scrub gently or can I put some ooomph in it?

Does the finish need a coat of bowling alley wax or something when it is all cleaned up ?

Tried lowering the quill gently again. I thought perhaps the return spring wasn't set right (like I would know that ).

I loosened the screw that apparently locks the tension on the spring/tensioner and listened to it unwind. If I rotated it clockwise I could see it pushing the quill down slowly. In the counter clockwise direction it did not move, and I thought maybe I was tightening it too much, and so not wanting to break anything I decided to wait until I finally tear into it.

 

[FrankLee]

dp#26

I promised myself I would wrap up my other projects before I work on the Drill Press, but curiosity got the best of me. I bought the Heavy Duty pads you suggested, and tried a few spots. It sure does remove what appears to be years of grime. I wiped it off with a clean cloth, and the cloth looked brown. Had to try the nose piece, and what a difference. I can imagine you must also use an old tooth brush to get in the pores of the casting. Should I scrub gently or can I put some ooomph in it?

Does the finish need a coat of bowling alley wax or something when it is all cleaned up ?

Tried lowering the quill gently again. I thought perhaps the return spring wasn't set right (like I would know that ).

I loosened the screw that apparently locks the tension on the spring/tensioner and listened to it unwind. If I rotated it clockwise I could see it pushing the quill down slowly. In the counter clockwise direction it did not move, and I thought maybe I was tightening it too much, and so not wanting to break anything I decided to wait until I finally tear into it.

You'll have to determine how hard to scrub it based on what is coming off. Consistency is best. Yes, I use Johnson's paste wax after cleaning. It eliminates any dull spots from scrubbing. I also use the wax on the column and table surface after cleaning.

You could spray the quill inside the head frame and pinion shaft lubrication port with PB or WD40. If grease is holding the quill tight, that should free it up somewhat. However, I'd wager that the quill lock cylinders are stuck and preventing the quill from moving freely. Check this post.


12/9/2016

Today, I brought home dp#26, a late Craftsman 150 model 103.24511. It was an estate sale find. Nice original paint! Nice table!

​

It came equipped with a nice MSA, a very nice Craftsman crown-logo work lamp, and a very uncommon Craftsman #1920 On-Off Rocker Switch accessory that replaces the motor terminal cover.

​

12/16/2016

Drill press #26 is cleaned and ready to be reassembled.

​

12/18/2016

DP #26 reconditioning complete. Another beaut!

​

 

[JZiggy]

Frank, I ran across this drill press on an eBay listing. Have you ever seen these long handles before? They look pretty factory to me!

 

[FrankLee]

Frank, I ran across this drill press on an eBay listing. Have you ever seen these long handles before? They look pretty factory to me!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Dri...567050?hash=item41b9d4378a:g:CuUAAOSwOtdYUGH9

I saw that auction too and thought the same thing. I've never seen feed handles that long, but Outlawmws made a comment about long handles in post #95 above. Interesting, if that's factory.

 

[FrankLee]

The motor mounting bracket – rod motor supports that slide in and out of the head assembly (and which pivot on the mounting bracket itself). How do those come off? I want/need to remove them from the mounting plate for cleaning and painting, and the pins (?)that hold them in place don’t seem to be removable.

Those roll pins will come out with a 1/4" punch. A roll-pin punch is the best, but any 1/4" rod, bolt, even a fubar drill bit should work. The appropriate sized transfer punch should work very well too without damaging it's point. A rock-solid surface under the motor mount rod helps too when striking the punch.

​

 

[andylew]

Hi Frank, I just wanted to thank you for this thread. I'm doing a restoration of a Craftsman 100 that I got on CL. The id tag says 103.23640, and based on the "Evolution" posts, I think it's an early version of the 13 1/2" benchtop model. This is the first time I've ever tried to restore anything and this thread has been an invaluable resource.

I do have a question about sourcing parts. The head lock and table lock handles are missing and the table tilt lock handle has a hole drilled through it, but it still works. I can tighten up the other lock bolts with a wrench, so I've been keeping my eye on ebay for replacements. The one important piece that's missing is the depth stop collar, I have the depth stop rod (also from ebay), but when bringing the quill down, there's a lag as the quill pushes through the empty space where the collar should be. Do you have any suggestions on what I can replace the depth stop collar with? Sourced from a different different brand, maybe? This drill press is for my personal use, so as much as I'd like the right part, a substitute would be fine. Thanks again.

 

[FrankLee]

Hi Frank, I just wanted to thank you for this thread. I'm doing a restoration of a Craftsman 100 that I got on CL. The id tag says 103.23640, and based on the "Evolution" posts, I think it's an early version of the 13 1/2" benchtop model. This is the first time I've ever tried to restore anything and this thread has been an invaluable resource.

I do have a question about sourcing parts. The head lock and table lock handles are missing and the table tilt lock handle has a hole drilled through it, but it still works. I can tighten up the other lock bolts with a wrench, so I've been keeping my eye on ebay for replacements. The one important piece that's missing is the depth stop collar, I have the depth stop rod (also from ebay), but when bringing the quill down, there's a lag as the quill pushes through the empty space where the collar should be. Do you have any suggestions on what I can replace the depth stop collar with? Sourced from a different different brand, maybe? This drill press is for my personal use, so as much as I'd like the right part, a substitute would be fine. Thanks again.

Thanks Andy, and welcome! Positive feedback is always appreciated.

Yes, keep checking ebay, the locks will occasionally show up. Unless you're really a stickler for original parts, don't rule out replacing the entire lock assembly for the newer all-steel versions.

I don't believe the tilt lock came with a handle, so that one could be moved to the table lock. When I sell a machine of that vintage, I will often suggest that the buyer remove the head-frame lock handle. That way, it can never be accidentally loosened which will cause the head frame to drop to the table.

Feed stop assemblies also pop up on ebay, so be patient. Another option is to have a slot machined into the quill to allow for a snap-ring like the later models. IIRC, I believe someone posted about doing that in an earlier post above. That will solve the lag issue. I believe I have a spare snap-ring.

The quill diameter on the 13-1/2" drill presses is the same is the 15-1/2" drill presses; 1-5/8". So you don't need to look specifically for that part from a 13-1/2" model.

Anyway, if you've been lurking on GJ for a while, you know that we like pictures. So, post 'em if you got 'em!

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

Frank
Great thread great information here is one I just got done cleaning up

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[nine4gmc]

Love that #26 Frank!

 

[FrankLee]

Frank
Great thread great information here is one I just got done cleaning up

Very nice! Thanks for posting!

Love that #26 Frank!

Thanks 94! I did well on the flip.

 

[andylew]

I don't believe the tilt lock came with a handle, so that one could be moved to the table lock.

Turns out I was mistaken. I was at work and didn't have a picture with me. It was the table lock handle that had been drilled through.

When I sell a machine of that vintage, I will often suggest that the buyer remove the head-frame lock handle. That way, it can never be accidentally loosened which will cause the head frame to drop to the table.

That's good advice about the head-frame lock handle. I guess I've already got that covered.

Feed stop assemblies also pop up on ebay, so be patient. Another option is to have a slot machined into the quill to allow for a snap-ring like the later models. IIRC, I believe someone posted about doing that in an earlier post above. That will solve the lag issue. I believe I have a spare snap-ring.

The quill diameter on the 13-1/2" drill presses is the same is the 15-1/2" drill presses; 1-5/8". So you don't need to look specifically for that part from a 13-1/2" model.

Thanks, I'll keep checking and hope something pops up.

Anyway, if you've been lurking on GJ for a while, you know that we like pictures. So, post 'em if you got 'em!

Unfortunately, I got the DP off CL and I cannot find any pictures of it with all the dirt, grease, and whatever else was caked all over it. Here it is scrubbed with scotch brite pads and a mix of simple green and water. I soaked all the parts, other than the castings and column, in evapo-rust. I'm going back and forth on repainting. I kind of like the patina, although when I removed the band on the head-frame, you could really see the original color. Sorry the quality isn't great. I took these on my phone. The last picture shows a pretty awful arc of shame on the table. I didn't touch the motor yet; it's not the original and it's underpowered.

 

[FrankLee]

Turns out I was mistaken. I was at work and didn't have a picture with me. It was the table lock handle that had been drilled through.

That's good advice about the head-frame lock handle. I guess I've already got that covered.

Thanks, I'll keep checking and hope something pops up.

Unfortunately, I got the DP off CL and I cannot find any pictures of it with all the dirt, grease, and whatever else was caked all over it. Here it is scrubbed with scotch brite pads and a mix of simple green and water. I soaked all the parts, other than the castings and column, in evapo-rust. I'm going back and forth on repainting. I kind of like the patina, although when I removed the band on the head-frame, you could really see the original color. Sorry the quality isn't great. I took these on my phone. The last picture shows a pretty awful arc of shame on the table. I didn't touch the motor yet; it's not the original and it's underpowered.

That is a very nice, very solid machine with character. If it were mine, I would not be re-painting. It's not rusted like several I've had, and the arc should not affect operation. I would just keep looking for the missing pieces and use it.


I can't tell in the pictures... is the taper pin missing on the table? It's part #22612 in the owner's manual diagram. Besides the feed stop bracket and one handle missing, anything else?



90,000 views today!

 

[andylew]

That is a very nice, very solid machine with character. If it were mine, I would not be re-painting. It's not rusted like several I've had, and the arc should not affect operation. I would just keep looking for the missing pieces and use it.

Thanks, Frank. That's probably the way I'm going to go.

I can't tell in the pictures... is the taper pin missing on the table? It's part #22612 in the owner's manual diagram. Besides the feed stop bracket and one handle missing, anything else?

Funny you mentioned the taper pin, I actually just noticed that when I was going through the exploded diagram from the manual again. Seems like the missing parts are the taper pin, the head-frame lock handle, the feed stop bracket, and the pinion retention screw.

 

[Shiftless]

C.A.:
Great work on that 150. Looks like a keeper.

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

C.A.:
Great work on that 150. Looks like a keeper.

Thanks if I didnt already have a 15 inch Delta Rockwell 1960 vintage I would have. It sold in 24 hours on CL really great guy who bought it he was so happy to get it and that made me feel great.

 

[Ijhursh]

Hi FrankLee,
I just joined GJ and my garage is under construction, I wanted to find a 150, but stumbled across this, what would be a fair price and how hard is it to maintain? I attached some pics. Please tell me what you think or if you have one available.













thx

Jim