Craftsman Drill Press

[Gsl521628]

Yes, I believe you do have a Craftsman 80, 12¼" drill press, but it's earlier. Model 23100 was manufactured between 1946 (maybe earlier) and 1949. You should have the CRAFTSMAN oval badge, often referred to as the Craftsman heritage badge, on the front.

Thanks Frank, Think you are correct that it may be a '46-'49 model with the heritage badge and no headband. Attached is before and after pics of my DP showing the badge. It was in my father-in-laws woodshop and was filled with sawdust and general nastiness. Took forever to clean, degrease, and repaint!! I went with craftsman red to match my rolling tool boxes.

I did get one tip and bought a small dolly from harbor freight for $8 to move it around the garage. so much easier to spin around and work on it.

Now to tackle the motor. Thank goodness for your motor disassemble/reassemble guide! One question though...I couldn't find any mention of disassembly of a motor with a capacitor? This one is pretty rusty. Any suggestions on removing/inspecting/cleaning/repainting/reinstall?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank, Think you are correct that it may be a '46-'49 model with the heritage badge and no headband. Attached is before and after pics of my DP showing the badge. It was in my father-in-laws woodshop and was filled with sawdust and general nastiness. Took forever to clean, degrease, and repaint!! I went with craftsman red to match my rolling tool boxes.

I did get one tip and bought a small dolly from harbor freight for $8 to move it around the garage. so much easier to spin around and work on it.

Now to tackle the motor. Thank goodness for your motor disassemble/reassemble guide! One question though...I couldn't find any mention of disassembly of a motor with a capacitor? This one is pretty rusty. Any suggestions on removing/inspecting/cleaning/repainting/reinstall?

Nicely done, Glenn!

Yep, those caster dollies work great! In addition to shop use, I also use them in my van if I can't dismantle a dp to bring it home. Tilt the dp into the van with the head frame on the dolly. Then lift the base and roll it inside.

I don't recognize the motor as a Craftsman, so I can't say if disassembly will be the same. What brand of is that? What are the specs? Ball bearing or sleeve bearing?

 

[Gsl521628]

I don't recognize the motor as a Craftsman, so I can't say if disassembly will be the same. What brand of is that? What are the specs? Ball bearing or sleeve bearing?

Frank, here is a pic of the data plate.

It runs fine as is so maybe leave well enough alone and paint it as it is? I do like how you do your partial disassembly as it makes it easier to check out, clean and paint the parts individually but I don't want to tear it down and in the process break something that I cant fix or get parts for.

what do you think?

 

[FrankLee]

Frank, here is a pic of the data plate.

It runs fine as is so maybe leave well enough alone and paint it as it is? I do like how you do your partial disassembly as it makes it easier to check out, clean and paint the parts individually but I don't want to tear it down and in the process break something that I cant fix or get parts for.

what do you think?

I can't argue with that approach.

If you want a matching motor, keep an eye open for an inexpensive Craftsman machine with a decent motor; band saw, scroll saw, etc.

 

[Jig]

Hey Frank, I have a question about the spacer between the two large bearings under the head pulley. Do I lube the shaft under the spacer? I would think that the spacer would turn WITH the shaft, not spin on the shaft. So, no need to lube. Thanks for your help.

Assembling my unit today.

Great site and appreciate all your effort in this thread. Thanks for all your help.

 

[FrankLee]

Hey Frank, I have a question about the spacer between the two large bearings under the head pulley. Do I lube the shaft under the spacer? I would think that the spacer would turn WITH the shaft, not spin on the shaft. So, no need to lube. Thanks for your help.

Assembling my unit today.

Great site and appreciate all your effort in this thread. Thanks for all your help.

There is no need to lube the spacer. The spacer may turn on the shaft some during the jolt of start-up, but will spin with the pulley. It's not a problem.

 

[Jig]

Thanks for the reply.

So I currently have 2 Craftsman DP's. Picked one up in Deland FL. Very sad shape but its comming together today. The other is a press that belonged to a WWII veteran Hero and has a ton of history. Its in great shape and could not pass it up. I have used your thread during the restoration.

 

[Craptain]

Thanks for the reply.

So I currently have 2 Craftsman DP's. Picked one up in Deland FL. Very sad shape but its comming together today. The other is a press that belonged to a WWII veteran Hero and has a ton of history. Its in great shape and could not pass it up. I have used your thread during the restoration.

Apparently you forgot to add pictures. We love pictures.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[slothfryk]

Let me start by thanking Frank for all of his efforts here! Great resources that consume many of my garage improvement browser bookmarks.

I am incredibly proud to announce that I have joined the Craftsman drill press owners group! I have been reading this forum and drooling for many months. Scouring Craigslist, Backpage, eBay, and the like. When I finally found a press in decent shape, the poster was non-responsive. After many attempts, the post expired and was regenerated a few days later with a $50 lower price tag!!! Contact info was the same, no responses received. I figured spam filters and incorrect phone number. Sure enough, the phone number was updated by one digit a week after the second post hit. I got a hold of the guy, scheduled pickup, and I am SO STOKED!!!!

Here are pics of my 1951 Craftsman King Seeley 103.23130, as were posted on Craigslist:














Things I've noticed:
- This is definitely a second round of paint. There is a little overspray near the stress relief on the motor cord, a razor mark near the top curves of the machine-marked badge, and the various nuts and bolts are all painted over.
- There is a moderate amount of runout. I can hear a little bit of vibration when it runs, and you can see a bit of wobble. I'm going to need to address this ASAP, so I am open to suggestions. I have a few ideas based on this [AMAZING] thread.
- I can't seem to move the table, and it is set really low. I am going to have some work to do in order to release the table.
- The chrome has some moderate pitting. I'm going to try the aluminum foil/steel wool trick, but I suspect that the pits aren't going away. Hopefully I can remove the lips and oil the metal to halt the rust from progressing.

 

[FrankLee]

Let me start by thanking Frank for all of his efforts here! Great resources that consume many of my garage improvement browser bookmarks.

I am incredibly proud to announce that I have joined the Craftsman drill press owners group! I have been reading this forum and drooling for many months. Scouring Craigslist, Backpage, eBay, and the like. When I finally found a press in decent shape, the poster was non-responsive. After many attempts, the post expired and was regenerated a few days later with a $50 lower price tag!!! Contact info was the same, no responses received. I figured spam filters and incorrect phone number. Sure enough, the phone number was updated by one digit a week after the second post hit. I got a hold of the guy, scheduled pickup, and I am SO STOKED!!!!

Here are pics of my 1951 Craftsman King Seeley 103.23130, as were posted on Craigslist:



Things I've noticed:
- This is definitely a second round of paint. There is a little overspray near the stress relief on the motor cord, a razor mark near the top curves of the machine-marked badge, and the various nuts and bolts are all painted over.
- There is a moderate amount of runout. I can hear a little bit of vibration when it runs, and you can see a bit of wobble. I'm going to need to address this ASAP, so I am open to suggestions. I have a few ideas based on this [AMAZING] thread.
- I can't seem to move the table, and it is set really low. I am going to have some work to do in order to release the table.
- The chrome has some moderate pitting. I'm going to try the aluminum foil/steel wool trick, but I suspect that the pits aren't going away. Hopefully I can remove the lips and oil the metal to halt the rust from progressing.

Welcome and thanks for your comments.

Despite the short-cuts the previous owner took to repaint, it's a nice looking machine.

Table... The column looks in relatively good shape, so it doesn't appear that the table is rusted to the column. If the PO painted over the lock cylinders, they may not be releasing the pressure on the column to loosen their hold. Another possibility is that the lock has been over-tightened repeatedly and they are deformed. That can cause the cylinders to become jammed and not release their hold.

Vibration... It could be caused by runout, but is more likely the belt. It looks like it's original to the machine. Old belts will harden and retain a memory of the curve around the pulleys, especially the smallest pulley. That can cause vibration.

Runout... If you don't have a professional resource, you may be able to lessen runout with a BFH and a block of wood on the body of the chuck. You will need a dial indicator to measure progress.

Pitting... Not much can be done other than what you planned. You may be able to wire wheel the chrome off and polish the raw casting. The pitting is part of it's character.

 

[slothfryk]

Thanks for the input, Frank! I hadn't even considered that the belt would rest inot a memory. You're right, that would explain a great deal of the vibration. Belts are such a cheap first stab at a fix, too. I will try that this evening if my local auto-stores carry the A-profile.

I reached out to JZiggy for one of his Slow-Speed Pulleys, so I will be getting new belts for that as well.

I will also take a look at the underside of the table to see if the clamping surface is releasing. I removed the through-bolt and nut last night. They are painted, but not frozen with paint.

Cheers!

 

[exmaxima1]

Re: Classic Craftsman Drill Press Spotter's Guide

[*]ALL Craftsman 80, 13½" & 100, 15½ 100 drill presses have an oval CRAFTSMAN badge (often called heritage badge) on the front of the head frame WITH a separate engine-turned trim panel. Except 1952 and 1953 models do not have a trim panel.

​

[*]ALL Craftsman 150s have a one-piece crown logo/trim panel on the head frame.

​

[/LIST]


There may be exceptions to the above, but I'm not aware of any.
.

I'm a bit confused about the difference between a 100 and a 150 in power bronze color. The press has no "150" lettering, nor a Crown Logo, just a plain logo and band (like a 100). But it does have the pivoting motor mount and the quick release depth stop (like a 150). If it's a 100 model, what extra features would a 150 have?

 

[FrankLee]

Re: Classic Craftsman Drill Press Spotter's Guide

I'm a bit confused about the difference between a 100 and a 150 in power bronze color. The press has no "150" lettering, nor a Crown Logo, just a plain logo and band (like a 100). But it does have the pivoting motor mount and the quick release depth stop (like a 150). If it's a 100 model, what extra features would a 150 have?

Power bronze was introduced on the 100s in the 1957 model year to commemorate Craftsman's 30th anniversary. The power bronze lasted a couple/few years into the 150 era.

For all 15-1/2" drill presses, if it has an oval logo, it's a 100; if it has a crown logo, it's a 150.

1956/57 were pivotal years for changes.. the rapid adjust feed stop, the hinged motor mount, tilting table and maybe a couple others.

 

[exmaxima1]

Re: Classic Craftsman Drill Press Spotter's Guide

Power bronze was introduced on the 100s in the 1957 model year to commemorate Craftsman's 30th anniversary. The power bronzed lasted a couple/few years into the 150 era. For all 15-1/2" drill presses, if it has an oval logo, it's a 100; if it has a crown logo it's a 150.

1956/57 were pivotal years for changes.. the rapid adjust feed stop, the hinged motor mount, and maybe a couple others.

Thanks! Did the 150 offer anything over the 1957 Model 100? Maybe a longer spindle stroke or anything useful like that?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks! Did the 150 offer anything over the 1957 Model 100? Maybe a longer spindle stroke or anything useful like that?

There are many other minor changes that I can't determine when they occurred, but I'm thinking the only difference is the crown logo and slightly modified head frame casting to accommodate the new head band.

I believe all internal parts are interchangeable between the '57 100 and the '58 150.

 

[SAA44-40]

Frank or anyone-
Any suggestions on removing rust from the striped band on the motor- without physically removing the band?

 

[FrankLee]

Frank or anyone-
Any suggestions on removing rust from the striped band on the motor- without physically removing the band?

Your motor looks to be in very similar condition to the one that cleaned up nicely for me.

I was able to remove mine and soak it in vinegar. If I were in your situation, I would cut a piece of a terry cloth rag the width of the band and as long a piece that would fit between the base and the badge. Drench the cloth in vinegar and let it drain off the rag until it stops dripping. Lay the motor on its side and lay the rag on the band. Cover with plastic wrap to keep the rag wet. Let sit and check every 30 minutes. Test clean the band with cleaner wax, Nevr Dull, chrome cleaner/polish, or similar. Repeat on other side of badge. Do not be too aggressive scrubbing the band.

You could also try navel jelly, but I've never tried it on chrome.

 

[Craptain]

Frank or anyone-
Any suggestions on removing rust from the striped band on the motor- without physically removing the band?

An option is to use Evaporust. Soak paper towels laid over it and then wrap with cling film to stop it drying out. It's worked for me on a couple of projects.
Basically same method as Frank suggests but different chemical.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[shortykorte]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Um. I have a motor that will need the same treatment. Thanks


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[FrankLee]

So... I have to get rid of my stainless fab table, because I got the big Matco box. This is what my Atlas 1010 was bolted to.

What do you consider the best smaller stand for a table top bench press? Something where the press is at a comfortable height to use, and stable.

It was nice meeting and chatting with you yesterday! That was a good deal on that Matco box. Did you get through sorting the contents? I hope to see some pictures of the highlights.

Will the DP fit on your old PK box? And will you still have room for it?

Another option... I have a spare floor-standing base and column from this Atlas dp#39.

 

[Outlawmws]

Eco, I was about to suggest using a bottom roller...

 

[FrankLee]

Grinder 397.19590

So, when I sold dp#34, the buyer asked me to find him a decent grinder to replace his noisy, shaky imported modern grinder. He pretty much gave me carte blanche. The other day, I picked up this mid-'60s, 1/2hp, Craftsman, model 397.19590 for a very decent price. You may have seen it in the Craftsman block thread.

Underneath the dirt and grinding dust, it is very nice. The original dark gray paint has a few scratches, but is nice enough to keep. The silver band has some significant scratches, so that and the eye shield frames will get new paint.

​

I have the grinder apart, mostly cleaned, and the band and shield frames are in the middle of being painted. I'm also waiting for Lynn to call with a bearing quote.

​

I have two hacks planned for this grinder.

First, this model has a lamp, but it has it's own switch. The lamp is not controlled with the grinder switch like I want. So, I bought an assortment of piggy back spade connectors and installed one on the switch for the lamp wire.

​

Second, I often remove the badges on the machines I refurbish. I usually reattach the badges with pop rivets. I'm not a fan of the looks, but it works. On this grinder, I drilled out the rivets as usual, but this time, I peened the original rivets to the badge. I'll attach the badge to the band with thin double-sided molding tape. This will maintain the original look.

​

 

[slothfryk]

Vibration... It could be caused by runout, but is more likely the belt. It looks like it's original to the machine. Old belts will harden and retain a memory of the curve around the pulleys, especially the smallest pulley. That can cause vibration.

I got the new belt on and it definitely helped! I ran a small bit through some cast iron and despite the light wobble that remains, the holes were pretty good.

I had to cut the old belt off, as the motor mount was flush to the upper. Once I had the belt off, I noticed that the lowest setting of the motor pulley has a bend in the lip, which was likely causing a pinch-point of additional tension that would further increase wobble. Should I try and bend it back into place, or just replace the pulley? JZiggy gave me a bit of insight, but just wanted to gather your opinion as well.

As for runout, I may try the BFH trick, but I lack a dial indicator. I am tempted to wait until I have time to do a proper dismantle and replace the bearings while I'm in there. Thanks for all your help and info, Frank!

 

[FrankLee]

I got the new belt on and it definitely helped! I ran a small bit through some cast iron and despite the light wobble that remains, the holes were pretty good.

I had to cut the old belt off, as the motor mount was flush to the upper. Once I had the belt off, I noticed that the lowest setting of the motor pulley has a bend in the lip, which was likely causing a pinch-point of additional tension that would further increase wobble. Should I try and bend it back into place, or just replace the pulley? JZiggy gave me a bit of insight, but just wanted to gather your opinion as well.

As for runout, I may try the BFH trick, but I lack a dial indicator. I am tempted to wait until I have time to do a proper dismantle and replace the bearings while I'm in there. Thanks for all your help and info, Frank!

Glad the new belt helped.

If your only other option is to replace the pulley, you have nothing to lose trying to repair the old pulley.

For the smallest step on a cone pulley, I've had some success removing minor dents using angle iron. Clamp the angle iron in a vise and place the dent on the angle iron. Gentle hammer on the ends of the dent working toward the center of the dent.

For dents in the largest step on a cone pulley, lay it on a hard flat surface. A table saw top works good. Place a narrow, flat piece of steel bar on the edge of the dent and gently strike the steel bar.

 

[SAA44-40]

Sanding of column and tables complete

 

[FrankLee]

Sanding of column and tables complete

Looks very good!

Any progress on the motor? ...capacitor or band?

 

[SAA44-40]

Bad cap. And not ashamed to say I took it to local motor shop. Now, do I get the shiny bits chromed....

 

[Craptain]

Bad cap. And not ashamed to say I took it to local motor shop. Now, do I get the shiny bits chromed....

There is no shame in that.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[SAA44-40]

Received some solid tips regarding rust removal from the band- without dismantling the motor. An old undershirt cut in squares soaked in Evapo-Rust then covered in Saran Wrap was a great success. After about 1/2 and hr the white T had turned a rust color. I then gently scrubbed the treated area with a damp paper towel to remove more rust. Repeated the Evapo-Rust/Saran Wrap treatment overnight. Surprised and pleased with the results- thanks fellas

 

[sheltonfilms]

Well I've been a longtime lurker on GJ and this is my first post.

Frank you have done an outstanding job documenting what all it takes to bring these DP back to life.

Been looking for a 1950s Craftsman drill press for a long time and finally one popped up on FB market place for $100 and I got it. Appears to be a 1956 from all the things I've read on here.

Already started the restoration process and found a few issues:

No feed/depth stop and collar.

Original spline pin from feed handle hub is gone. Appears the original holes cracked and a new set were drilled and the pin was replaced with a bolt.

Spindle pulley bottom bearing was locked up. Wear is present on the shaft and also the collar/spacer has been ground down about 3/16". This explains why I was seeing the pulley move up and down slightly with the quill movement.

Also spindle pulley internal splines are worn a little.

Name plate is torn.

Motor is 3450 RPM! Didn't notice this at first because drill looks like a 56 and motor was stamped 56 so I thought it was what came with it. Turns out the 103.24821 model number on the drill says it was sold as just the drill with no motor. Looks like original owner bought them separately and got the wrong speed. I think I may build a 4:1 reduction system similar to what Rogue Fabrication has done with their D.P.R.K. Either this or use the motor as a polisher/wire wheel and install a treadmill motor for speed control.

Got $75 worth of new bearings today from Motion Industries. Guy looked at the old ones and said "Norma, never heard of this company". Older guy walked up and looked at me and said "these wouldn't happen to be from an old Craftsman drill press would they?". Also, picked up a new 14/3 replacement cord from the local electrical supply.

Wishlist:
Name plate
Spindle Pulley
Feed Handle Hub and pin
Feed depth stop and collar

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/153530549@N02/37978086601/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Drill press"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/37978086601_112649441c_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Drill press"></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/153530549@N02/37978083731/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Drill press"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/37978083731_a1d61a58db_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Drill press"></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/153530549@N02/37978083421/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Drill press"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/37978083421_dac1a75b7f_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Drill press"></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/153530549@N02/37978083411/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Drill press"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/37978083411_f1bb0ca564_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Drill press"></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/153530549@N02/37268955904/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Drill press"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/37268955904_3f6a8b303f_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Drill press"></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/153530549@N02/37268955074/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Drill press"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/37268955074_ac106d2216_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Drill press"></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/153530549@N02/37924814946/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Drill press"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/37924814946_f049b5031d_t.jpg" width="75" height="100" alt="Drill press"></a>

 

[exmaxima1]

At first glance that looks like the 1957 drill press I had (having just learned that the gold color came out in 1957 as their Anniversary model). But you don't have the pivoting motor mount, so I wonder if your machine is made up of multiple machine's parts

Anyway, good luck, and get rid of that 3450 motor ASAP before you ruin those fancy new bearings!

 

[Outlawmws]

Shelton, I did a treadmill motor on my Rockwell, and love it.

 

[FrankLee]

Hello Anthony and welcome!

My comments interspersed below in red.

Well I've been a longtime lurker on GJ and this is my first post.

Frank you have done an outstanding job documenting what all it takes to bring these DP back to life.
Thanks for your kind words.

Been looking for a 1950s Craftsman drill press for a long time and finally one popped up on FB market place for $100 and I got it. Appears to be a 1956 from all the things I've read on here.
Your's looks like a well used and maybe somewhat abused machine, but can definitely be brought back to a useful life.

Already started the restoration process and found a few issues:

No feed/depth stop and collar.
These will often pop up on ebay and often a little pricey.

Original spline pin from feed handle hub is gone. Appears the original holes cracked and a new set were drilled and the pin was replaced with a bolt.
I believe the oem pin is 9/32" dia. Did the PO modify the pinion shaft to install the bolt? If the hub is in decent shape otherwise, I would just go with what you have and reuse the bolt. And maybe use some LocTite between the hub and shaft. I've had a cracked hub like that in the past (without the re-drill and bolt) and used LocTite 609.

Spindle pulley bottom bearing was locked up. Wear is present on the shaft and also the collar/spacer has been ground down about 3/16". This explains why I was seeing the pulley move up and down slightly with the quill movement.
Your machine likely does not have the snap ring on the quill. So, without the feed stop collar, the spindle collar is bumping up against the spindle pulley. Perhaps that's why the previous owner shortened the spacer... just conjecture on my part. Did you have to remove the spindle pulley retaining screws on the outside of the head frame? Or were they missing?
Regarding the worn pulley shaft, again, I'd use LocTite 609 between the inner race of the new bearings and the pulley shaft. But only apply the LocTite when you're ready to install the pulley. This will allow for proper alignment of the bearings relative to the head frame and pulley shaft.


Also spindle pulley internal splines are worn a little.
Likely from inadequate lubrication. If the pulley steps are still in good shape, I'd continue to use it.

Name plate is torn.

Motor is 3450 RPM! Didn't notice this at first because drill looks like a 56 and motor was stamped 56 so I thought it was what came with it. Turns out the 103.24821 model number on the drill says it was sold as just the drill with no motor.
I've never seen a model information plate with the "with motor" catalog number.

Looks like original owner bought them separately and got the wrong speed.
Not necessarily. It depends on how the machine was used.

I think I may build a 4:1 reduction system similar to what Rogue Fabrication has done with their D.P.R.K. Either this or use the motor as a polisher/wire wheel and install a treadmill motor for speed control.

Got $75 worth of new bearings today from Motion Industries. Guy looked at the old ones and said "Norma, never heard of this company". Older guy walked up and looked at me and said "these wouldn't happen to be from an old Craftsman drill press would they?". Also, picked up a new 14/3 replacement cord from the local electrical supply.

Wishlist:
Name plate
Spindle Pulley
Feed Handle Hub and pin
Feed depth stop and collar

It also appears that the head frame lock lever is recessed into the head frame. I looks like the head frame lock cylinder(s) were swapped with the shorter table lock cylinder(s).

At first glance that looks like the 1957 drill press I had (having just learned that the gold color came out in 1957 as their Anniversary model). But you don't have the pivoting motor mount, so I wonder if your machine is made up of multiple machine's parts

Anyway, good luck, and get rid of that 3450 motor ASAP before you ruin those fancy new bearings!

It's my belief that the hinged motor mount was introduced with the Craftsman 150 drill press in 1958. So that mm would be correct.

I agree with swapping the motor, but don't believe the speed will harm the bearings when the belt is positioned for the slowest speed. With a 1750 rpm motor and the belt in the fastest speed position, the spindle will turn at ~5000 rpm. The quill bearings are the same part number that is used in Craftsman jointers, alien head planers and other machines that require a 3450 rpm motor.

 

[Gsl521628]

Hi Frank, Tacking my motor and need to replace both rubber bushings on each end of the motor mount (see blue arrow on the attached pic). Tried to search for the part but not sure I am using the correct nomenclature for the part? The motor is a century (model number on the tag in the second pic).

Glenn

 

[sheltonfilms]

Hello Anthony and welcome!

My comments interspersed below in red.



It also appears that the head frame lock lever is recessed into the head frame. I looks like the head frame lock cylinder(s) were swapped with the shorter table lock cylinder(s).




It's my belief that the hinged motor mount was introduced with the Craftsman 150 drill press in 1958. So that mm would be correct.

I agree with swapping the motor, but don't believe the speed will harm the bearings when the belt is positioned for the slowest speed. With a 1750 rpm motor and the belt in the fastest speed position, the spindle will turn at ~5000 rpm. The quill bearings are the same part number that is used in Craftsman jointers, alien head planers and other machines that require a 3450 rpm motor.

I've already gone through 2 brand new wire wheels just trying to sling the crud off. I swear its gonna weigh 10 lbs less after it's cleaned up. The main table alone had an 1/8" thick rock hard grease "patina" all around. It was so bad I thought it was actually painted black.

As for hub and pinion shaft. The PO looks like they just drill the same size holes (clocked 90 degrees out) and used the same pinon hole with no modifications. Holds pretty good but if I ever get the itch to make it perfect I'll try to locate a hub and handles with the larger threads for more strength.

Spindle pulley did have the retaining snap ring around the shaft (also had the one in the headstock for the bearing to bottom out at) and it had the two screws in the sides. Went to the hardware store and got a 4" section of 1" galvanized pipe. Seems after I cut the length down to 1" it will be a good replacement. I got one of the screws on the sides out easy but the other one broke off in headstock. Using a trick an old timer taught me years ago, I drilled it and extracted it pretty easily. Just grabbed a bit the same size as the recessed hole and drilled into it. Since the bit was the same size as the recess it self centered and the tip put a divot in the broken screw at center. Using this divot I center punched it and drilled it enough for an EZ out extractor.

Pulley is in good condition but I may add a shim to one of the faces of the splines. I had another drill that was worn out this way and the "knock knock knock" with no load drives me nuts. I figured just cut a shim and adhere it to one of the side faces of the spline. Since the drill only goes CW, the shim would go on the side of spline that doesn't receive the torque, so all it would be doing is preventing the bounce back of the spindle with no load.

Some where in my research I saw that the model number was for drill only, wasn't actually on the plate.

Good notice on those lock levers. That actually had me scratching my head when I first looked at and based on everyone else's pictures of the 100 and 150s. It's in a good 3/8-1/2" past where it should be.

Picked up a 1/4 HP 1750 motor today for $10 (Marathon Electric, made in good ol Wausau, WI), so that should get me by, until I do a treadmill motor or find another Craftsman motor of this vintage.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Hi Frank, Tacking my motor and need to replace both rubber bushings on each end of the motor mount (see blue arrow on the attached pic). Tried to search for the part but not sure I am using the correct nomenclature for the part? The motor is a century (model number on the tag in the second pic).

Glenn

I think they are called Resilient Rings.

 

[FrankLee]

My comments below.

I've already gone through 2 brand new wire wheels just trying to sling the crud off. I swear its gonna weigh 10 lbs less after it's cleaned up. The main table alone had an 1/8" thick rock hard grease "patina" all around. It was so bad I thought it was actually painted black.
I had one like that recently, but maybe not as bad as you're describing. It was a huge pita with bits of drilled out metal curls and shavings embedded in the dried cutting oil. I tried heat, lacquer thinner, and even resorted to using a scraper for some of it.

As for hub and pinion shaft. The PO looks like they just drill the same size holes (clocked 90 degrees out) and used the same pinon hole with no modifications. Holds pretty good but if I ever get the itch to make it perfect I'll try to locate a hub and handles with the larger threads for more strength.

Spindle pulley did have the retaining snap ring around the shaft (also had the one in the headstock for the bearing to bottom out at) and it had the two screws in the sides. I got one of the screws on the sides out easy but the other one broke off in headstock. Using a trick an old timer taught me years ago, I drilled it and extracted it pretty easily. Just grabbed a bit the same size as the recessed hole and drilled into it. Since the bit was the same size as the recess it self centered and the tip put a divot in the broken screw at center. Using this divot I center punched it and drilled it enough for an EZ out extractor.
A snap ring was added to the lower quill on later models that eliminates the messed-up screw. Check this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4880745&post4880745

Went to the hardware store and got a 4" section of 1" galvanized pipe. Seems after I cut the length down to 1" it will be a good replacement.

Pulley is in good condition but I may add a shim to one of the faces of the splines. I had another drill that was worn out this way and the "knock knock knock" with no load drives me nuts. I figured just cut a shim and adhere it to one of the side faces of the spline. Since the drill only goes CW, the shim would go on the side of spline that doesn't receive the torque, so all it would be doing is preventing the bounce back of the spindle with no load.
That sounds like a great idea! If you go that route, please post your results.

Some where in my research I saw that the model number was for drill only, wasn't actually on the plate.

Good notice on those lock levers. That actually had me scratching my head when I first looked at and based on everyone else's pictures of the 100 and 150s. It's in a good 3/8-1/2" past where it should be.

Picked up a 1/4 HP 1750 motor today for $10 (Marathon Electric, made in good ol Wausau, WI), so that should get me by, until I do a treadmill motor or find another Craftsman motor of this vintage.

 

[FrankLee]

So, I stopped over at FrankLee’s house yesterday to buy a set of feed handles and knobs for my bench top Atlas 1010. I had a Halloween event last night at my son’s school, so I have not had a chance to clean them up yet. I also got a tour of his shop.

I ended up keeping my stainless table, and just moving it to another spot. I could not stand seeing my drill press sitting on the floor.

Stop by again any time!

 

[FrankLee]

I think they are called Resilient Rings.

Yep. Grainger has a variety of mounting rings for those cradle mounts.

I've never found a replacement for Craftsman motors, but you may get lucky for your Century. If you can't find replacements, you may be able to flip them over and turn them 180 degrees to compensate for the sagging.

 

[Gsl521628]

I think they are called Resilient Rings.

anyone has a website that sells them?

Disregard. Saw you anticipated my question and replied for me to check at granger.