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atch

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bubinga

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FrankLee

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Re: dp#62

I'm getting closer to completing the refurb on dp#62 model 103.0305, but need a little help on a few things.


  1. What is the length of the bolt and the order of parts for the head frame motor bracket handle?
    [*]What is the order of parts on the motor mount support stud?
  2. Is the table levening pin a taper? a rod? What size?
  3. What size v-belt for this machine?

Thanks for any help!

Still looking for pin info and the oe v-belt size for my 103.0305. Anyone?
 

oldironowner

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Rileysan

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Milwaukie, Oregon
Coming home with me today. Thank you Smoke for the heads-up on this King Seeley with Atlas table lift.

Original price was $130. I contacted the seller and offered$150. He threw in a 6" post vise just because I was up front with him on what was causing so many people to call on it. 😀

Brian
 

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sheltonfilms

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Coming home with me today. Thank you Smoke for the heads-up on this King Seeley with Atlas table lift.



Original price was $130. I contacted the seller and offered$150. He threw in a 6" post vise just because I was up front with him on what was causing so many people to call on it. [emoji3]



Brian



Good to see another member here getting a table lift. Awesome on getting the post vise. You pretty much paid for the vise and got the press for free.


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FrankLee

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Coming home with me today. Thank you Smoke for the heads-up on this King Seeley with Atlas table lift.

Original price was $130. I contacted the seller and offered$150. He threw in a 6" post vise just because I was up front with him on what was causing so many people to call on it. 😀

Brian

Excellent find!

The lift looks pretty clean. Keep us posted on what you're doing with it.
 

Smokeshow69

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Excellent find!



The lift looks pretty clean. Keep us posted on what you're doing with it.



My offer up alert found it for me! Since I want to get a table top model once my garage is sorted out, I sent it over to rileysan since I know he would be all over it! Glad to see it went to a good home! I can even visit it on occasion!


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Defc0n

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Fort Worth, TX
Just Take the Belt off and try it, If it still trips, Can you Just take the motor in close to the panel?

I bought a chain hoist and was able to get the press onto a dolly and up to the house. It runs fine up there. I then noticed that for some reason when I replaced the power cord I only used 16AWG wire. I'm not sure what possessed me to do that. I think I'll step it up to at least 12AWG and see what happens.

Mark
 

bubinga

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I bought a chain hoist and was able to get the press onto a dolly and up to the house. It runs fine up there. I then noticed that for some reason when I replaced the power cord I only used 16AWG wire. I'm not sure what possessed me to do that. I think I'll step it up to at least 12AWG and see what happens.

Mark
How many HP is the motor, 16 ought to be enough, but possible breaking the camels back in this case. Can't hurt to try #12
 

sheltonfilms

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Messages
157
Thanx. Time to start looking for one. Do they come up for sale on occasion? CL? eBay? here?

b-t-w; I've put an ad in the wanted section here.



They are pretty rare. If you search all of Craigslist or Facebook market place you will find maybe 1 or 2 max.

You will come across middle pulleys and varislows more often.

You will see them on eBay every few months but they sell for $500-$600, and yes they actually sell at that price.


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atch

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They are pretty rare. If you search all of Craigslist or Facebook market place you will find maybe 1 or 2 max.

You will come across middle pulleys and varislows more often.

You will see them on eBay every few months but they sell for $500-$600, and yes they actually sell at that price.


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maybe I don't want one that badly after all...
 
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atch

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There are two on eBay right now in the $500 range.

Been using my 2 drill presses for over 40 years without lifts; guess I'll just go on using them as-is.
 

ClappedOutBport

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Mar 30, 2016
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Today I worked on removing gunk from inside the head. When I got to the little space in front of where the feed lever is machined out, a tiny hidden gem plopped out - a set screw! I don’t recall if this is part of the drill press, and hence lost during factory assembly, or not, and hopped in from a previous owner.
But my luck did not hold out: going over it so meticulously, I noticed for the first time a CRACK in the casting (red arrows) where one of the motor mount rods is tightened by a lateral screw. Further inspection showed a second potential crack (red ellipse) near it, much finer, and perhaps only an illusion like what I hope is just a seam in the casting (green ellipse).
I speculate this may have resulted from the machine falling over during a previous move (one of the feed lever arms was bent when I got it, and the motor that was on it was brazed at some time. Or (I can scarcely believe it), maybe the screw was overtightened?
In any case, now I am thinking of repair options. I have never brazed, and while I have sweated a good amount of red brass fittings and copper pipe, I have some doubts about silver soldering this unless it came off and could be tinned first.
A second idea would be to drill and tap some holes on either side, and screw a steel yoke around the iron, to hold everything in place and resist further expansion of the crack.
Thoughts?

That is definitely repairable, whether via tig brazing or torch brazing. I would not weld it. It would be better off to have it professionally done if you're a first timer, but it's probably much cheaper to part out the press.

If you had the equipment, personally I would consider it a parter but attempt the repair. If all goes well, awesome. If not, just part it out.
 

sunder

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IL
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

My grandpa gave me his 1950 Craftsman drill press the other day. His neighbor gave it to him long ago

From what i can tell its a 150 from around 1956 to 1958 model 103.25431. Anyone have more of a exact idea... And what color is suppose to be gold?

It seams to run fine but is really dirty and the based and post are rusted over. Doesn't have that much run out. I will be replacing the bearings. The motor is not original it's probably a blower motor for an HVAC unit.

The only part i haven’t taken apart yet it the quill. I am working to get the base, pole, and drill head clean up and painted. I will work on the internal parts afterwards.

I do have to say Thank You to FrankLee and everyone else how have shared there knowledge about this drill press. It's making the project go rather quick and smoothly. :beer:

1d3b9d642ad248f16474cf15aa20f7ca.jpg


477b8e9b02549ca39b436d7b04af428f.jpg

As you can see the base is completely rusted over.
beb8fdacc2c55c1b223b8171206f2231.jpg

Starting the tear down
995b93ef3bbb22a85ca8e4eb69fccb88.jpg

That top bearing was really on there
1a321271e84629cec8e83c1ade508a8f.jpg


b8bfec2cc6008af003b7284a5df79623.jpg

Success
f35570434563267e49d3266fe53b5607.jpg

Great Success
f93c45b7e6c4ad52e1d2f52ef7fe9701.jpg

Had to do some pretty involved wire brushing on the base
f2d76e9976a605cdb43e06faff82d808.jpg

99be600c24c383f713869d1955541653.jpg







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sunder

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Here is why i am asking what color. After i removed the electric switch and badge it looks to be a very light gray almost white, not gold/oil color.


ff37f80aa69f816b1b445357760cbc25.jpg


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FrankLee

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

My grandpa gave me his 1950 Craftsman drill press the other day. His neighbor gave it to him long ago

From what i can tell its a 150 from around 1956 to 1958 model 103.25431. Anyone have more of a exact idea... And what color is suppose to be gold?

It seams to run fine but is really dirty and the based and post are rusted over. Doesn't have that much run out. I will be replacing the bearings. The motor is not original it's probably a blower motor for an HVAC unit.

The only part i haven’t taken apart yet it the quill. I am working to get the base, pole, and drill head clean up and painted. I will work on the internal parts afterwards.

I do have to say Thank You to FrankLee and everyone else how have shared there knowledge about this drill press. It's making the project go rather quick and smoothly. :beer:

As you can see the base is completely rusted over.

Starting the tear down

That top bearing was really on there

Success

Great Success

Had to do some pretty involved wire brushing on the base

Welcome!

I like the family stories with the old craftsman machines.

Catalog number 2453 was in catalogs from ‘59 to ‘63 (no ‘58 catalog). Because it’s a gold 150 with the external spring tension knob, I’m thinking your machine is closer to 1958.

Here is why i am asking what color. After i removed the electric switch and badge it looks to be a very light gray almost white, not gold/oil color

The gold was fairly light, but it definitely was not an off-white. Shop-grime discoloring is very common on all colors.

Check this post for cleaning products I use:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7900276
 
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atch

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Messages
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Location
Columbia, Missouri
That's a very ingenious puller.

If you don't happen to have a correct puller this is a quick solution. Maybe not as good as a quality puller but it worked in this example.
 

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bsorcs

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New Orleans
Greetings,
First post!

I came upon an older 150 and have spent several days cleaning, dis-assembling/re-assembling, painting, etc. I have it back in nearly operable condition [fubarred the return spring] but for a motor w/pulley. After I pulled the motor I put it on the bench and fired it up. Ran quietly for ~5 seconds, then popped and smoked a bit. I took the sleeved-bearing, 5/8 keyed-shaft 1/2hp GE to a relatively large and busy shop I have used in the past for work on a couple of 3ph motors [Oliver machines] to see if it was worth restoring. Their first comment was that the ?centrifugal? switch was no longer available, but offered to take a look and give me a call. Their conclusion was that the motor is toast. That being said, I need a replacement and a pulley, as they bent the existing one trying to get it off of the shaft.

My guess is that options are the big auction site or a new motor, and hopefully a correct pulley. I suspect that the latter might be the more difficult to find. I have the info from the motor tag, so that's a start. Having read/perused much of what you have provided herein, I solicit your counsel. Need to get the machine in use!

bs
 
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FrankLee

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Greetings,
First post!

I came upon an older 150 and have spent several days cleaning, dis-assembling/re-assembling, painting, etc. I have it back in nearly operable condition [fubarred the return spring] but for a motor w/pulley. After I pulled the motor I put it on the bench and fired it up. Ran quietly for ~5 seconds, then popped and smoked a bit. I took the sleeved-bearing, 5/8 keyed-shaft 1/2hp GE to a relatively large and busy shop I have used in the past for work on a couple of 3ph motors [Oliver machines] to see if it was worth restoring. Their first comment was that the ?centrifugal? switch was no longer available, but offered to take a look and give me a call. Their conclusion was that the motor is toast. That being said, I need a replacement and a pulley, as they bent the existing one trying to get it off of the shaft.

My guess is that options are the big auction site or a new motor, and hopefully a correct pulley. I suspect that the latter might be the more difficult to find. I have the info from the motor tag, so that's a start. Having read/perused much of what you have provided herein, I solicit your counsel. Need to get the machine in use!

bs

Welcome!

Replacement oe pulleys do show up on ebay quite often. What will you be using the drill press for? An aftermarket two-step pulley would probably satisfy your needs. 1-1/2” and 2” steps.

A replacement motor should not be difficult to find either on craigslist.
 

LesserSon

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Feb 7, 2016
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Location
PA USA
I’ve got my very rusted-together base and column soaking in a tub of Evaporust, with some bubble wrap floating atop to reduce evaporation.
On DP#59, pulling the base up the column freed it. Will that work on a floor model? There is no protrusion that I can see. If anything, it looks like the column is slightly shy of being flush. Is there a lip in the base, or is the bore straight-walled through? Bottom line, can pounding either the column or the base, up or down, do any good in freeing them?
 

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bsorcs

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New Orleans
Many thanks. The search is on. Intended use will be largely relatively light...wood boring, light aluminum track installation, etc; heaviest currently anticipated will be ~1/2-inch holes in 1/4-inch steel-plate caster mounts for self-constructed gantry.

Just found a NOS motor that looks like it will work; now a pulley.
 
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Outlawmws

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The Badlands
LS the column should have set screws, and should be straight through.

The concern with pounding is to NOT mushroom the ends and make things worse.

Work with the E-rust, once that has done its job, Kroil, Clamp the column in a vise, and Twist on the base to loosen? once it starts turning it should get easier...
 

Rileysan

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Milwaukie, Oregon
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Welcome!

I like the family stories with the old craftsman machines.

Catalog number 2453 was in catalogs from ‘59 to ‘63 (no ‘58 catalog). Because it’s a gold 150 with the external spring tension knob, I’m thinking your machine is closer to 1958.



The gold was fairly light, but it definitely was not an off-white. Shop-grime discoloring is very common on all colors.

Check this post for cleaning products I use:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7900276

Here's the page from the 1958 catalog for your records.

Brian
 

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Indexmill

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Central NC
I’ve got my very rusted-together base and column soaking in a tub of Evaporust, with some bubble wrap floating atop to reduce evaporation.
On DP#59, pulling the base up the column freed it. Will that work on a floor model? There is no protrusion that I can see. If anything, it looks like the column is slightly shy of being flush. Is there a lip in the base, or is the bore straight-walled through? Bottom line, can pounding either the column or the base, up or down, do any good in freeing them?

Turn a shouldered bushing to put in the end of the tube to pound on to avoid mushrooming the end of the tube. Don't crack the base casting.
 

sunder

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Messages
63
Location
IL
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

**Fixed It so it made more sense. Was in a rush earlier**

Hey I just took the base off of mine and it was rusted on.

1. Take out the set screw
2. Soak in pb blaster top
3. Lay it forward and drench the set screw hole with PB Blaster. There is a cavity in there so it will take a lot.

The base is held on by 3 ring and the steel block that the set screw pushes against. Here is a picture of it.
9b3bff780cf332b6f9e6c5eac64187e9.jpg


Don't hit the pole from under the base you will just mushroom the pole and make it that much harder to get out.


Lay the base and pole forward so the top of the pole is supported buy something I used a milk crate.
Take a drill with a wire brush and get all of the build up out.
Spray with more PB Blaster under neath at the bottom of the hole
Heat the base for 5 mins around the pole, but not on the pole or in the hole of the pole
I place a sheet over the pole, so it doesn't get dingged up.
Put a 2x4 here (Picture below) and hit it the 2x4 with a hammer. You and put it on either side of the pole too
You should see is move a little bit after a couple blows

b5afc9c541d9be8a8b1d0c5bfd374bb1.jpg


Your trying to bang the bottom off the post. Not hitting the post out of the base.

26dee837be35e01e311ad0522bead006.jpg

Let me know if you have any questions


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sunder

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IL
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I also did heat around the post on the cast iron with a torch.


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