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Craftsman Drill Press

bsorcs

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Jun 1, 2019
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New Orleans
Roger the smoke issue! I cannot see how it might be not-3-ph.

I wired into and through the drum switch and into the motor using the same wire-color configuration in the cords I had been using to run my Oliver machines [low voltage]. Tamale I will check the voltage legs out of the newly installed outlet. Then I'll check continuities and voltages into and out of the switch, and into the motor. The diagram inside the drum-switch cover was a bit of a puzzle. Might try to post that. If all of this bears no fruit, I'll ask on the Steel Soldiers site, as I know of some serious electricians thereon who have helped me in the past.
 
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GreyEyes

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A picture of your switch and how you wired the drum switch would help. Most 3 phase drum switches are line to 2,3,6 motor to 1,4,5
 

Agrove27

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Aug 18, 2018
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Indiana
couple rookie questions - i originally got the 1/2" accu-link belt, when i put it up to the pulley it seemed way too big so i returned it and got the 3/8" which seemed to fit much better. it runs well... did i mess up? should i get the 1/2"? also what are the two holes on either side of the main body near the top for?

attached is a before and after of my recent restoration.
 

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sheltonfilms

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May 28, 2014
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157
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

1/2” belt was correct. Acculink belts ride more on the lips than down in the valley, but the tabs/tangs on the belt grab the valleys a little bit.

Holes on sides are for screws that retain the spindle pulley assembly w/ bearings.

What’s the story on the handle and hub. That looks like some custom work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Agrove27

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

What’s the story on the handle and hub. That looks like some custom work.

I'm not sure. I guess I didn't realize it might not be stock. this dp was previously owned by an orthopedic device shop here locally so maybe it's a replacement after heavy use?
 

Reversepolarity

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Jan 5, 2016
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Washington State
couple rookie questions - i originally got the 1/2" accu-link belt, when i put it up to the pulley it seemed way too big so i returned it and got the 3/8" which seemed to fit much better. it runs well... did i mess up? should i get the 1/2"? also what are the two holes on either side of the main body near the top for?



attached is a before and after of my recent restoration.



Looks good


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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FrankLee

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dp#65

With many thanks to alinc100, I picked up dp#65 yesterday. It's a late 150, Emerson model 113.24511 in beautiful shape!

The only minor issue so far is a broken feed handle knob.




Earlier in the day, I found this #2487 Shaper Fence Attachment for a drill press at an estate sale.





9/20/2019

It took me about 30 minutes to get the head frame dismantled this morning. I dropped the nut from the feed stop rod and spent another 90 minutes on my hands and knees with a flashlight looking for it. I later found that the nut fell into my pocket!





9/22/2019

Most small parts are cleaned up.




These are the feed handles from dp#65. One is broken.



These are the feed handles from dp#63. Two are broken, one is whole. All were covered in some kind of bondo or something similar. After much chipping, scraping, sanding and waxing, the whole one cleaned up nicely.



Now, a complete good set for dp#65.





9/23/2019

The cast iron parts are cleaned and waxed. This one's a beauty!





9/26/2019

dp#65 is complete and is stunning!



 
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bherren

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Aug 12, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Tennessee
Search for "NEMA 48 Cradle mount resilient rings" and you will find options.

If your motor has the round or the hex hubs, replacements are available in most hub sizes. If your motor has a square hub replacements are no longer available.

You can get sheets of 1/2" thick rubber from McMaster and cut your own.

In a pinch I have made them from one of those black rubber floor mats, but I don't know if long term they would hold up.

This is proving to be very helpful. Thank you :beer:
 

bsorcs

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Jun 1, 2019
Messages
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Location
New Orleans
A picture of your switch and how you wired the drum switch would help. Most 3 phase drum switches are line to 2,3,6 motor to 1,4,5

The connections you provide are indeed what is inside the switch cover. I would guess that they comprise L1 [black in my cord] to 2, L2 [red] to 3, and L3 [white] to 6...fairly straight forward, although it entails running L2 around to the other [reversing] side of the switch from the L1 and L3 connections. Not clear how to deal with the other three connections. I tried a mirror image with the motor leads: 1-7 to 1, 2-8 to 4, and 3-9 to 5. Again, the red went to the other side. Plugged it in, with the switch inadvertantly in the reverse position, and it ran like a top. Switched to off position, waited for stop, switched to forward...spark and smoke at contact 1, immediately off. Now what?

Outlet checks out: 240v between all lines, b-phase stinger, a=120v, c=120v

Since the mirror-image try failed, I looked again at the diagram inside the switch cover and realized my likely error. It seems that the 3-9 and 2-8 leads should go to 5 and 4, respectively. I'll try that when I can get back to the shop Sunday.
 

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atch

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Re: dp#65

With many thanks to alink100, I picked up dp#65 yesterday. It's a late 150, Emerson model 113.24511 in beautiful shape!

The only minor issue so far is a broken feed handle knob.




Earlier in the day, I found this #2487 Shaper Fence Attachment for a drill press at an estate sale.


I have two of these drill presses (one for metal and one for wood) and one of them has an electrical box with the switch in it mounted to the side like yours. Therefore there would be a hole in the side of the DP if I move the switch to somewhere else. Is there any way to "patch" the hole invisibly? I've been thinking about this for years. I don't want to just leave a hole in the side of the housing and have no idea how to fill the hole where it didn't show.
 

GreyEyes

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Florida
Outlet checks out: 240v between all lines, b-phase stinger, a=120v, c=120v

Since the mirror-image try failed, I looked again at the diagram inside the switch cover and realized my likely error. It seems that the 3-9 and 2-8 leads should go to 5 and 4, respectively. I'll try that when I can get back to the shop Sunday.

If everything else is correct, changing those 2 leads should just change the direction of rotation with respect to the position of the switch.

Since it appears you have a high leg delta system, measure your voltages at the line connections on the switch to make sure your cord is wired correctly to the plug.

Did you ever measure the continuity on the motor and determine for certain that it should be wired wye and not delta as clappedoutbport mentioned?
 
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bsorcs

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Location
New Orleans
If everything else is correct, changing those 2 leads should just change the direction of rotation with respect to the position of the switch.

Since it appears you have a high leg delta system, measure your voltages at the line connections on the switch to make sure your cord is wired correctly to the plug.

Did you ever measure the continuity on the motor and determine for certain that it should be wired wye and not delta as clappedoutbport mentioned?

Roger the directional change. At the outlet coming out of the panel, the ground is the 'tabbed' plug and the high leg is in the center. I am fairly certain that is how the cord is wired, but will verify that when next in the shop. It's a cord that I had been using in a previous location.

As to the line connections, is the location of the high leg on the switch of significance? Re motor continuity, how might I check that?
 
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FrankLee

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Re: dp#65

I have two of these drill presses (one for metal and one for wood) and one of them has an electrical box with the switch in it mounted to the side like yours. Therefore there would be a hole in the side of the DP if I move the switch to somewhere else. Is there any way to "patch" the hole invisibly? I've been thinking about this for years. I don't want to just leave a hole in the side of the housing and have no idea how to fill the hole where it didn't show.

If the paint is original, there's not much chance of an invisible patch.

If the hole is tapped, you could try grinding the end of a screw flat and inserting it from the inside of the head frame. It wouldn't be invisible, but it would be filled.

I found many similar switch set-ups and it never bothered me or those that bought my refurbed machines.

Here is a link to a post with some of the more unusual switch fabrications I've had:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5753907&post5753907
 

atch

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Apr 4, 2006
Messages
842
Location
Columbia, Missouri
Re: dp#65

If the paint is original, there's not much chance of an invisible patch.

If the hole is tapped, you could try grinding the end of a screw flat and inserting it from the inside of the head frame. It wouldn't be invisible, but it would be filled.

I found many similar switch set-ups and it never bothered me or those that bought my refurbed machines.

Here is a link to a post with some of the more unusual switch fabrications I've had:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5753907&post5753907
Yep; original paint, so I guess I'll just leave it alone. It works great; just doesn't look great. Thanx for the link to the older post. It looks like mine isn't very unique in regards to the handy box with the switch in it.
 

Junkman

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I found this drill press, and was wondering what the part on the top is that has the vice grip attached to it? I am thinking that it is a speed reducer, but just don't know these that well. Seller is asking $75.. is it worth that? All help appreciated.
 

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FrankLee

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I found this drill press, and was wondering what the part on the top is that has the vice grip attached to it? I am thinking that it is a speed reducer, but just don't know these that well. Seller is asking $75.. is it worth that? All help appreciated.

If the Vari-Slo speed reducer is complete and intact, YES! Even with the missing table and feed handle(s).

The gap between the front link and the pulley seems excessive, so something is amiss on it, but it could be a minor issue.
 
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GreyEyes

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Location
Florida
As to the line connections, is the location of the high leg on the switch of significance?
On a piece of equipment that also has 120v for controls and such the high leg location matters, but on a simple motor it does not

Re motor continuity, how might I check that?

Here is a very good decription of how to determine motor wiring, towards the bottom of the thread:

**I don't have enough posts here to share a link, I will PM it to you, will add it to this post when able**

This should be marked on your motor, but if it is missing this shows how to determine it.
 
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Canis Major

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Sep 20, 2019
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New to the site. Picked up a 1952 "100" off of Craigs list and slowly starting to work on it. A couple questions, are there any tricks to getting the table tilt pin out and also the spring tensioning knob. They both seem rusted in place pretty good.
Thanks,
Ralph
 

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FrankLee

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New to the site. Picked up a 1952 "100" off of Craigs list and slowly starting to work on it. A couple questions, are there any tricks to getting the table tilt pin out and also the spring tensioning knob. They both seem rusted in place pretty good.
Thanks,
Ralph

Welcome Ralph!

The tilt taper pin must be tapped out from the bottom. You may consider using a brass punch to limit mushrooming the end of the pin. Tapping may turn into hammering, then pounding before it comes out. They can be pretty stubborn sometimes. Use caution as to not crack the cast iron. It may be easier to remove the table from the column first.

Remove the thumb screw from underneath the tension knob. Old grease may have petrified which is preventing the knob from moving. If a penetrant is not working, you may need to pry the spring off the prongs of the knob. Remove the pinion retaining screw before going that route.

Once the hub/pinion is removed, knock out the tension knob from the inside with a short piece of small pvc pipe or an appropriate socket with extension.
 
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GreyEyes

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Welcome Ralph!

The tilt taper pin must be tapped out from the bottom. You may consider using a brass punch to limit mushrooming the end of the pin. Tapping may turn into hammering, then pounding before it comes out. They can be pretty stubborn sometimes. Use caution as to not crack the cast iron. It may be easier to remove the table from the column first.

In addition, remove the tilt locks and squirt some penetrant on to the pin area of the table pivot on the inside through the lock sleeve holes. As FrankLee suggests, this is also easier to do if you remove the table from the column, as you can turn it to easier see the inside. You can also remove the angle indicator and squirt through there.
 
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Junkman

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My only suggest it to spray with Deep Creep by Seafoam. I have never found a penetrant product that worked as well. Spray, wait about 10 minutes, tap gently with ball peen, and remove the item with relatively little effort.
 

Junkman

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I picked it up this afternoon, and got it for $50 because the table was missing. The Vari Speed was frozen, but with a quick blast of Deep Creep, it moves now. How do I dismantle this without breaking anything. The steel column is full of rust and I am thinking that I will have to clean that up first. I want this to slip off easily, but I see a lot of set screws that appear to need to be loosened first.
I am also going to need to find a motor pulley, since the one on the motor is just a single groove small pulley. Suggestions where to find a pulley?
 

GreyEyes

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How do I dismantle this without breaking anything. The steel column is full of rust and I am thinking that I will have to clean that up first. I want this to slip off easily, but I see a lot of set screws that appear to need to be loosened first.
I am also going to need to find a motor pulley, since the one on the motor is just a single groove small pulley. Suggestions where to find a pulley?

Go to the first page of this thread, FrankLee has beautifully indexed and linked every part of these drills, including the vari-slo disassembly. With the vari-slow you only need the small pulley.
 
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FrankLee

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I picked it up this afternoon, and got it for $50 because the table was missing. The Vari Speed was frozen, but with a quick blast of Deep Creep, it moves now. How do I dismantle this without breaking anything. The steel column is full of rust and I am thinking that I will have to clean that up first. I want this to slip off easily, but I see a lot of set screws that appear to need to be loosened first.
I am also going to need to find a motor pulley, since the one on the motor is just a single groove small pulley. Suggestions where to find a pulley?

Be very careful about getting the Vari-slo to move. The speed lever should only be adjusted with the machine running. Perhaps you know that already.

Below are a couple links to the Vari-Slo installation guides. They may help your understanding of how to remove it.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3034.pdf
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3013.pdf


I agree that an oe cone pulley is not necessary with the V-S.
 
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achong

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Mar 5, 2013
Messages
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Anyone have any leads on the maroon funky shaped knobs
for these? Craftsman still had parts, but after ordering, they
sent me some round ones that didn't take the shoulder
on the rod into account.

I think the alternatives would be
a) turning down the rod so that the new knobs would fit.
b) making wood ones with a brass insert
c) making metal ones.


I need to rebuild mine. the shaft has some runout
but the whole thing is in very good shape.
 

Junkman

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I got it apart by sliding the column off of the head, and carefully removing the head stock screws. I did find why the vice grip was on the speed clamp. The instructions for installation that I found and printed show a clamping pad, and this pad is also missing. It appears that other than the parts being stiff, that nothing is bent. Next project will be taking it apart and cleaning everything, and then reassemble on my drill press that I purchased used in 1967. Haven't decided what to do with the remnants of this project. Being that the table is missing from the drill press, I am inclined to seeing this as a parts machine. I know that the spindle on my machine has some run out and I will also need to deal with that issue along the way. Thanks for the help, and pointing me in the correct direction without having to read 70 pages. Pictures below, thanks to a friend that helped me unload the machine.
 

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Reversepolarity

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The 150 bench top bases and posts make excellent grinder stands.

9e25f617637e43024beb7c1fa86d618a.jpg

2064290fc6090d492324b3202ba5670d.jpg


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bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
$50 in Romeo, MI

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/d/romeo-vintage-craftsman-drill-press/6983772522.html

Posted 2 hours ago.

00J0J_5EA7rbza0UH_1200x900.jpg


Bill
 
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FrankLee

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I got it apart by sliding the column off of the head, and carefully removing the head stock screws. I did find why the vice grip was on the speed clamp. The instructions for installation that I found and printed show a clamping pad, and this pad is also missing. It appears that other than the parts being stiff, that nothing is bent. Next project will be taking it apart and cleaning everything, and then reassemble on my drill press that I purchased used in 1967. Haven't decided what to do with the remnants of this project. Being that the table is missing from the drill press, I am inclined to seeing this as a parts machine. I know that the spindle on my machine has some run out and I will also need to deal with that issue along the way. Thanks for the help, and pointing me in the correct direction without having to read 70 pages. Pictures below, thanks to a friend that helped me unload the machine.

Excellent!

Those clamping pads are frequently mia. Here's a link to a post from member Joe B. with dimensions:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4136278&highlight=vari-slo#post4136278


<marquee behavior="alternate" scrollamount="20">EDIT:</marquee>
I updated the Vari-Slo post with a simple substitute for the clamping pad.


marquee.
 
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FrankLee

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Anyone have any leads on the maroon funky shaped knobs
for these? Craftsman still had parts, but after ordering, they
sent me some round ones that didn't take the shoulder
on the rod into account.

I think the alternatives would be
a) turning down the rod so that the new knobs would fit.
b) making wood ones with a brass insert
c) making metal ones.


I need to rebuild mine. the shaft has some runout
but the whole thing is in very good shape.

d) Craftsman stubby screwdriver handles

 

achong

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Mar 5, 2013
Messages
8
Ha! I love it. had gotten the tunnel vision of putting right parts on it, when
something else would be infinitely more amusing AND easier.
 
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FrankLee

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seMI, 48317
DP#66 with Table Lift

dp#66 is a late Craftsman 100, model 103.24520. Originally a bench model, a previous owner installed a solid steel column.





9/23/2019

I got dp#66 apart today. Three things made this a very difficult undertaking.


  1. I wanted to remove the main screw on the table lift first. There are a pair of jam nuts at the top of the main screw. The first came off OK, but the second just rotated without any vertical movement. Either the nut was stripped, the main screw threads were stripped, or both.

    Using a couple nut splitters, and because of the thinness of the jam nut, it took about two hours and lots of cursing to get that nut safely removed and the main screw off. More on the jam nuts below.

  2. The diameter of the solid steel column was a problem.

    Out of all the manufacturers I'm familiar with, I believe King-Seeley/Emerson drill presses have the smallest of the so-called "2-3/4 inch" diameter columns. The head frame and the base castings were both very tight.

    I got the base off first using the 2x4-with-a-BFH method. I tried that method on the head frame casting with very little progress. I then tried a couple puller set-ups which worked well for as far as they could reach; about 6". The 2x4-with-a-BFH worked well after that.

    The table lift collars and the table seemed to move OK on the column which makes me think the table bore may have been honed to work better. Atlas made the table lift which I think has a slightly larger bore.

  3. Due to the sheer weight of the solid column, it was difficult to maneuver and hold the assembly in the best positions to remove the parts.


Jam Nuts & Main Screw

Below are pictures of the jam nuts and the end of main screw after removal. It turned out that both pieces were stripped. Fortunately, at least four of the eight or so threads are still good.




You can see that I attempted to split that nut on each side. The splitter kept sliding up and off the nut. The corners on both ends of the chisel on my cheap splitter actually broke. Another splitter finally worked, but it wasn't really appropriate with such a thin nut.




These jam nuts normally carry the weight of the drill press table. The bottom surface of this nut is badly worn from wearing against the cast iron gear housing. This is why I strongly recommend moving the thrust bearing from inside of the housing to the outside (* when used only as a table lift).




The 3/8-16 threaded portion of the main screw is ~17/32" long and the 1/2" portion is 15/16" long. I suppose the proper fix is to cut off both portions to the 3/4" main screw section. Next, on a lathe, drill and tap the 3/4" section for a 3/8-16" stud by ~2-1/2" long. Then, use a 1/2" od x 15/16" long sleeve bearing over the stud.


Because there are enough good threads, I'm going to use a simpler approach... a jam set screw and a threaded coupler. I'll cut down the coupler and use a shorter set screw. It'll look odd, but it'll work just fine. That Nice 603 1/4 thrust bearing was nasty covered with old grease, but there was never any load on it inside the gear housing. It cleaned up like new.






9/27/2019

All the lift parts are cleaned and look great. There are quite a few paint chips, but I like original paint and will be swapping this one onto my keeper machine.

The bevel gears and main screw threads are in great shape. Note that the pin for the crank handle is tapered. It can only be removed and reinstalled from the same direction.





9/30/2019

The cast iron parts cleaned up nicely!




The paint on the base cleaned up good too, but this is another factory re-paint. The original paint was the darker charcoal gray. I always thought that the charcoal gray was only on Emerson machines. Apparently King-Seeley started using it.





10/1/2019

The table lift is back together and works beautifully!





10/09/2019

dp#66 and dp#68 cast iron is cleaned. Most internal parts are cleaned. Motors are cleaned with new cords.





10/10/2019

dp#66 is complete.


 
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sheltonfilms

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Messages
157
Re: dp#66

dp#66 is a late Craftsman 100, model 103.24520. Originally a bench model, a previous owner installed a solid steel column.






Always nice to see one with a lift. Is that a rotary table with it too?


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