Indexmill
Well-known member
^^ Maybe his honey made him list it...
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Glued together my evaporust tube tonight in preparation for an upcoming drill press refresh! Tube is 4’ long so it can accept a bench top column or other long metal!
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Glued together my evaporust tube tonight in preparation for an upcoming drill press refresh! Tube is 4’ long so it can accept a bench top column or other long metal!
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
If you get a #13 rubber stopper for the end of the 2-3/4” column, you can save a lot of evaporust.
Glued together my evaporust tube tonight in preparation for an upcoming drill press refresh! Tube is 4’ long so it can accept a bench top column or other long metal!
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
If you get a #13 rubber stopper for the end of the 2-3/4” column, you can save a lot of evaporust.
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
I have glued a threaded fitting onto the end so I can seal it and roll it around to keep the liquid moving and also to prevent evaporation !
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My soaking chamber is a ~72" piece of 3" PVC . I originally had a domed cap glued on the bottom. It worked well, but was awkward since it couldn't stand or balance vertically.
When going to use it once, I accidentally punched a hole through the cap when I inserted a column. I wanted a replacement cap that was flat and ended up using threaded fittings similar to yours.
I used a thread sealer on the plug threads and tightened as much as I could. It was very difficult to tighten the plug on a relatively small section of loose pipe of that diameter.
I used it very successfully a couple times outdoors. When the weather cooled, I tried it indoors and discovered that even with the thread sealer, the plug leaked. Now I have a small rust stain from a puddle of solution on my basement floor. I now set the pipe in a small bucket to catch the leak.
So, my point of all this is to suggest that you test your pipe and procedure with water only for several hours before inserting the column and evaporust. I suspect that you may also have a very difficult time tightening the plug enough to prevent a leak and then removing the plug afterward.
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Good point on the cap leaking. I glued a flat cap on the other end so it can stand up but I will most definitely stand it in a bucket just to be safe!
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bubinga
Well-known member
Yep,
bubinga
Well-known member
That's a Good Idea!!
T.K.B.
Member
Here is my DP#1 that I am going to refurbish and keep.
I think it is all original.
I am not sure but I think is about 1948.
Not bad for $150.00
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I also got this box of parts that were included.
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I got these new parts to add to the DP.
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The paint is a specked gray finish.
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The badges are riveted and not screwed on.
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I picked up the Walker Turner table lift, but what I want is the Atlas lift.
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I also got the milling bit attachment and shaper attachment with the mortising attachment that were included with the DP.
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They aren't old, but I have a cross slide vise too.
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I think it is all original.
I am not sure but I think is about 1948.
Not bad for $150.00
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I also got this box of parts that were included.
View media item 100620
I got these new parts to add to the DP.
View media item 100621
The paint is a specked gray finish.
View media item 100622
The badges are riveted and not screwed on.
View media item 100623
View media item 100624
I picked up the Walker Turner table lift, but what I want is the Atlas lift.
View media item 100627
I also got the milling bit attachment and shaper attachment with the mortising attachment that were included with the DP.
View media item 100626
They aren't old, but I have a cross slide vise too.
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smalltown
Well-known member
I like the pulley and the slow speed parts Yummy. I think you got a good deal considering all the parts and pieces.
lafester
Well-known member
Damn, that should be a pretty sweet setup!
Nice looking press for $150.
Nice looking press for $150.
lafester
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Yeah since you have the vari slow, you can get your $150 back selling the other pulley.
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Yeah since you have the vari slow, you can get your $150 back selling the other pulley.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
T.K.B.
Member
I like that the Craftsman has a chuck that is not just connected with the taper. Safer to use for light milling.
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Picked this one up yesterday model 103.23140. It needs some TLC. It has the slow speed pulley. Looks like everything is original and nothing is missing except for the column shoe. I had both spindle pulley retaining screws snap when I tried to unscrew them. Once I get the correct drill bit size I can drill them out. The owner also had a 4 vices for sale at a good price so I came home with them all. From left to right: Columbian No. 63 Red Arrow, Craftsman 506.51800, Wilton 101020, and 4” Standard Vise. They are just as rusty as the drill press but will clean up nice!
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Picked this one up yesterday model 103.23140. It needs some TLC. It has the slow speed pulley. Looks like everything is original and nothing is missing except for the column shoe. I had both spindle pulley retaining screws snap when I tried to unscrew them. Once I get the correct drill bit size I can drill them out. The owner also had a 4 vices for sale at a good price so I came home with them all. From left to right: Columbian No. 63 Red Arrow, Craftsman 506.51800, Wilton 101020, and 4” Standard Vise. They are just as rusty as the drill press but will clean up nice!
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Attachments
ZBear
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Who is hiding behind the blanket?
Who is hiding behind the blanket?
T.K.B.
Member
It looks like the same model as mine.
Does it have the speckled paint?
Frank, what year would you say my DP is?
I am guessing 1948, but I may not always be right, but never wrong.
Does it have the speckled paint?
Frank, what year would you say my DP is?
I am guessing 1948, but I may not always be right, but never wrong.
'51, huh? Cool! I noticed a few differences as I disassembled it compared to my other two model 100's.
The photographer's highly qualified assistant?
The paint was originally blue but mostly gone now from being in the humid garage.
The guy I bought it from was given the drill press by his uncle who bought it new. His uncle had a car repair shop in Brooklyn, NY where the machine was originally put to work.
I believe yours is a '51...
- panel screw on trim panel
- cast table and head lock handles
- safety chuck
'46 to '50 models had 6-32 machine screws attaching the trim panel to the head frame casting.
'52 and '53 models had no trim panel, no chrome plating, new ball-end lock handles, all steel lock cylinders
Chrome plated parts returned on '54 to '56 models.
Starting in '57, paint color changed to Power Bronze for several years.
Below is a link to earlier date discussions:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6849660&post6849660
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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Yes, March '47.
I think I made a mistake earlier. I didn't notice the chuck. Unlike T.K.B.'s drill press, your chuck does not have the safety collar, so definitely pre-1951. I can't tell from the pictures, does yours have the machine screws on the trim panel?
Yes, March '47.
I think I made a mistake earlier. I didn't notice the chuck. Unlike T.K.B.'s drill press, your chuck does not have the safety collar, so definitely pre-1951. I can't tell from the pictures, does yours have the machine screws on the trim panel?
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T.K.B.
Member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
My motor says D2 50.
So do you think that the motor 1950 and the DP is a 1951 Model?
My motor says D2 50.
So do you think that the motor 1950 and the DP is a 1951 Model?
T.K.B.
Member
I came across this when I was looking through the old Craftsman catalogs.
Has anyone seen it and is it available?
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Has anyone seen it and is it available?
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
I have one. They pop up on eBay periodically and for under $15... they are very helpful and show the different operations a drill press can perform. I recommend buying one!
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So, here's an oddity I discovered yesterday. This really has me baffled!
Below is the wonky spring from dp#77 as I found it in mid-December. I figured that at one time, a previous owner had tensioned the spring in the wrong clockwise direction, deforming the end. It was no big deal because I had a spare spring.
Several weeks ago, I had the machine cleaned and ready to reassemble. Before I replaced the spring, I thought I'd try to flip it around and hook the good end onto the roll pin.
While tensioning the spring, I felt it slip off the roll pin. I figured the fubar end prevented the flipped spring from working. So ok, time for the spare spring. I got the spare installed and it worked perfectly. I tossed the old spring into my fubar parts bin and didn't think anything else about it.
Fast forward to yesterday... I received four NOS springs in a smokin' hot deal on ebay. These springs are part number 38989 for late 150s, and Emerson gens 2 and 3 drill presses. After I opened the package of new springs, I wanted to verify that these were indeed the correct springs for these late Craftsman drill presses.
Here's what the old spring looks like today. Both ends are now deformed.
Here is a side-by-side comparison of an NOS spring with the fubar spring. Yep, I received exactly what I was expecting.
But, here is a side-by-side comparison of the ends of an NOS and the fubar spring. The old spring is wound in the wrong left-hand direction! WTF? It should be a right-hand wind! Otherwise, it looks exactly like the correct spring. Where did that old spring come from? I'm stumped.
Below is the wonky spring from dp#77 as I found it in mid-December. I figured that at one time, a previous owner had tensioned the spring in the wrong clockwise direction, deforming the end. It was no big deal because I had a spare spring.
Several weeks ago, I had the machine cleaned and ready to reassemble. Before I replaced the spring, I thought I'd try to flip it around and hook the good end onto the roll pin.
While tensioning the spring, I felt it slip off the roll pin. I figured the fubar end prevented the flipped spring from working. So ok, time for the spare spring. I got the spare installed and it worked perfectly. I tossed the old spring into my fubar parts bin and didn't think anything else about it.
Fast forward to yesterday... I received four NOS springs in a smokin' hot deal on ebay. These springs are part number 38989 for late 150s, and Emerson gens 2 and 3 drill presses. After I opened the package of new springs, I wanted to verify that these were indeed the correct springs for these late Craftsman drill presses.
Here's what the old spring looks like today. Both ends are now deformed.
But, here is a side-by-side comparison of the ends of an NOS and the fubar spring. The old spring is wound in the wrong left-hand direction! WTF? It should be a right-hand wind! Otherwise, it looks exactly like the correct spring. Where did that old spring come from? I'm stumped.
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ClappedOutBport
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2016
- Messages
- 998
I didn't know these had springs like that. I've only ever seen clocksprings. Unfortunately, now that I've used a counterbalanced spindle I never want to go back...
115.6965 Bench Grinder
Craftsman 115.6965 Bench Grinder
The drill press hunt has been very slow for a couple months. Decent original drill presses are few and far between, too far away or far too expensive.
I'm always looking for any older Craftsman machine project. When this 115.6965, post-war, early pre-block grinder popped up yesterday, I had to go for it. The seller's pictures and description were not great, but it looked complete. The price-versus-distance risk seemed worth it.
Craftsman 115.6965 Bench Grinder
The drill press hunt has been very slow for a couple months. Decent original drill presses are few and far between, too far away or far too expensive.
I'm always looking for any older Craftsman machine project. When this 115.6965, post-war, early pre-block grinder popped up yesterday, I had to go for it. The seller's pictures and description were not great, but it looked complete. The price-versus-distance risk seemed worth it.
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lafester
Well-known member
Nice find, as always. Love the pedestal and yes, these things are way over built for what they are.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The Stand is Awesome; the grinder isn't bad either!
ZBear
Well-known member
Re: 115.6965 Grinder
I have been scouring CL and FB Marketplace to mount one of these next to my drill press. Always too far for me. I am very jealous.
I have been scouring CL and FB Marketplace to mount one of these next to my drill press. Always too far for me. I am very jealous.
The drill press hunt has been very slow for a couple months. Decent original drill presses are few and far between, too far away or far too expensive.
I'm always looking for any older Craftsman machine project. When this 115.6965, post-war, early pre-block grinder popped up yesterday, I had to go for it. The seller's pictures and description were not great, but it looked complete. The price-versus-distance risk seemed worth it.
I met the seller at his place of business. The grinder and pedestal stand were loaded in the back of his pickup. Besides the overall dirty condition and rust on the center band, the only problem I could see was that the glass in both eye shields is cracked. He said it ran and I was ok with his word. I paid the man and we loaded it into my car.
What I didn't expect was the size and weight of this thing!
My other cast iron pre-block is dwarfed by this beast.
The pedestal is homemade and massive... 37½" high, bottom diameter 16". The top mounting plate is 9½" x 10¼". I estimate that it weighs 200+ pounds!
555678
2/13/2020
I dismantled most of the grinder this morning.
Arbor Nuts
Removing the stones is sometimes a problem, but a right-hand threaded jam nut is an indispensable tool for this job. The threads on this machine is 1/2-24, so not very common except for grinder arbors.
Procedure:
- use a wrench on each arbor nut
- remove the left side nut first
- remove the outer flange and stone
- thread the jam nut and the original nut back onto the left side arbor and tighten them against each other
- use wrenches on the left side outer jam nut and on the right side nut
- remove the right side nut
- remove the outer flange and stone
- loosen and remove the jam nuts from the left side arbor
Inner Flanges
Removing the inner flanges on these pre-block grinder is often a problem and this machine was no exception. These flanges are a softer cast aluminum(?) and may deform when over-tightened.
In my case, the left inner flange would rotate on the arbor, but would not slide off. I applied Liquid Wrench several times and rotated the flange. Spinning the flange got easier, but the flange still would not slide off the arbor.
I then used my heat gun to warm the flange, turning the arbor shaft to evenly heat the flange. After a couple minutes of heat, I was able to pop the flange off by hand.
The right inner flange was a bit more challenging. I had to reinstall the jam nuts in order to get the flange to rotate on the arbor. No matter how much LW and heat I used, the flange was not coming off. Even judicious force with a puller didn't budge it.
I got it to the point where the flange would spin easily, so I grabbed the flange with my hand and turned the motor on. While the arbor was spinning, I gently pulled the flange. A couple times, the flange spun out of my grip. I could feel the flange heating up from the friction and eventually, it came free.
So, both flanges got removed without damage.
This afternoon, I started cleaning a couple parts.
Re: 115.6965 Grinder
It's an interesting machine with a different style and unique issues. The light socket and wiring in each wheel guard makes it a little more challenging. The lamp socket is non-standard and the lamp wiring is toast. The lamp wiring is routed around and through the guards and through the end caps, so reassembly will be different.
It's an interesting machine with a different style and unique issues. The light socket and wiring in each wheel guard makes it a little more challenging. The lamp socket is non-standard and the lamp wiring is toast. The lamp wiring is routed around and through the guards and through the end caps, so reassembly will be different.
lafester
Well-known member
Looking good! How crunchy are your lead wires?
They look pretty good in the pic but that can be deceiving.
They look pretty good in the pic but that can be deceiving.
They were unusable. I've been updating the original grinder post with progress reports and resolved the lamp socket/wire issue.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8340916#post8340916
Restoring a Long C drill press made by Atlas. I have the machine apart but really want to deal with any sort of rust inside the head. I have a ton of vinegar on hand, but am concerned about rinsing it and then treating the inside surfaces afterward. Has anyone done a derust job on the inside of a dp head? I don't want to spray rust-killing primer in there...